I have those exact same baseboards 6” square edge, solid wood, painted white. I love them so so much. They totally changed the look of my house. I did the same profile but in 3” wide for all the trim around the doors, closets, windows, etc. it looks fantabulous.
One advice to anyone attempting a similar project: I recently finished a full wall paneling project using large sheets of masonite board like in 1:51. I used the adhesive behind and nailed the board along all available studs, and at large areas with no studs I'd 'pinch' the board to the wall but nailing through the drywall at opposite diagonal angles to help with adhesion. But unfortunately I noticed it still started to pop out and create bumps between the battens. The only difference with Jamison's project is that the squares in my design are much largeer - about 24"+ wide and several feet long because it's a high wall. So I'm guessing that's the reason, and it's probably good to keep the squares smaller, and even cut masonite into pieces divided between the battens, instead of attaching a whole sheet, and attaching the battens on top of the masonite.
The first half of the ru-vid.comUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
Solid poker face when talking about your caulk is always important. Always wanna have smooth caulk line! Great video by the way. Just completed a very similar project & pattern.
I'm going to be doing this in my craft room soon and wondered if you smoothed down the 'rough' edges on the the mdf inbetween coats? That's a lot of edges! I thought about clamping them all together and painting the edges in one fowl swoop before attaching them to the wall but not sure if there is a better way. Great video!
I wish I would have watched this video before I started my project ... I am in the middle of my project and I used thin flooring underlayment as my backing, but there are a lot of imperfections that the primer highlighted. Your material is much smoother. Also your idea of cutting up a sheet of mdf is interesting, I bought the primed pieces and I am not sure how it will all pull together. We shall see ....
who do you think your getting over on. A rag and caulk. Funny I always liked their, I think it was 25 year caulk.( the cheaper stuff) it all works well. I cant wait to see the big Deck you put on. Good job
how did you do the adjoining corner of the vertical boards? Did you cut the edges of the boards in a forty degree angled then joined them? Or did you just overlap one on top of the other?
I wonder if this will help lower neighbours noise. They're not that noisy, I just worry we might be the noisy ones lol. Plus, I would really like to put my tv on the shared wall.
Did you guys align everything with studs? My girlfriend is wanting to do this but is thrown off with having to space the same amount as studs. 16" centers
Also, when attaching the board to only the drywall you can hit the nails at slightly different angles, so as to 'pinch' the material to it so that it'd stay conformed to the drywall. After the glue is dry then the board is going nowhere.
Seems the small details were glossed over, like the bottom baseboard where you then added the mason board, wouldn't that leave a overhang? details are important
the drywall behind isn't as smooth as the mdf strips, and may not look ideal especially if using a glossy or semi gloss paint finish, which highlights imperfections. It's up to personal taste though - I've see wainscoting where the middle is knockdown textured drywall, which makes a cool contrasting look against the smooth stiles and rails. Personally I think any type of finish work of an aesthetic nature in renovation is subjective, and the bottom line is if a look seems like it was done on purpose - and not an afterthought - most of the time it won't look so terrible to most people. Almost always, as a homeowner/DIYer you are your own worst critic (other than the Karens and Micheles in the comments section).
My only advice if you plan to stay in your house...don't use glue or adhesive. Take the time to use finished nails. A few years down the road when you want to make another change you will create more work with removing all the adhesive. Plus you are now putting a chemical in your house when it's not really needed - for me its more about the damage it does to the drywall - then you need to resurface it, sand, dust, etc - not worth it in my opinion. Is there a reason it is used that I am unaware of?
Did you know that mdf may offgas urea-formaldehyde into your home? Also it is HIGHLY recommended to use particle mask when working with it because urea-formaldehyde dust is something you really don't want to breathe. I don't see you wearing it or mentioned anywhere in the article.
Is there anyway I can do this without ripping off my baseboards? I want this lookin my long hallway but I have 7” expensive baseboards & we just built our house 2 hrs ago my husband won’t allow me to rip them up? I need a solution!
You can also use the faux-box design as well, instead of the board and batten design, if you like the design that is. Like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XoJNN4rQwBM.html Basically you only need to buy the frame molding and make frames, then glue + nail then to the wall, add a chair rail across the wall. Then paint the full area as white gloss. That's what I did because it limits the scope of the project. For board and batten personally I think it looks best to remove the baseboard, and reattach them over the board and batten.
Dap caulk sucks. Shrinks terribly. Big stretch works much better....but you get what you pay for. Dap is $2.50 vs $9.00 for big stretch. Not having a call back is well worth the extra cost!!!
Ugh. That DAP caulking is the worst, guaranteed to crack 2 days after you apply it. Do yourself a favour and use a better caulking when needed, lots of better choices out there. DAP = DIY. Junk
@@rogueengineer Interesting that you would describe watching one of your own videos as a waste of time. Not sure why you would reference gaming negatively unless you believe that a "gamer" is not capable of understanding the complex concept of sticking MDF to an internal drywall...
Gringadoor I wasn’t referring to my video as a waste of time. I was referring to your negative, off topic, comment as a waste of time. And I did not say anything negative about gamers. My son is a bit of a gamer.
@@rogueengineer It's a legitimate criticism and hardly off topic when your video is so overblown and overly graded to hell that it's actually hard to see what you are explaining as imperfections in the wall at the start of the video, but whatever. By all means keep grading it to shit and throwing on black bars if you think it makes you look like a movie star.
Couldn’t figure out why glue and the chalking????? Why would you glue it all, and chalk this? Until the end when I see who paid for the video. Dap. What a waste of my time.
Gluing moldings minimizes movements but the edges still would not perfectly conform to each other with no gaps (between stiles and drywall, and between stiles and masonite, etc.). With the waviness of the drywall and unseen residues, there is bound to be gaps that need to be filled for a better look. Settling for a substandard look is no crime - whatever makes one happy - but neither is wanting a better result. Besides, that reaction is a little dramatic for a $2-3 tube of caulk. If you find that step to be unnecessary then by all means skip it. What makes the rest of the video a waste of time?
