How to Install a Drop Ceiling | Armstrong Ceilings for the Home 

Very good suggestions. I will keep that in mind.

While hanging these ceilings is not rocket science, it does involve a lot of fiddling. That is something that I cannot stand doing. That's why I hired someone to do it :-p

Why

Well, how did it go?

@@3Gdogger hey....it went great!!! Thanx for the support by posting this video!!! Awesome help fro u!!

If you frame it right your tiles don’t move from anything , if you frame the borders too loose that happens

@@TJPIZAZ It has to be just right though or over cutting them and wedging them in pushes the grid out of square

@@steveannetts9909 no it can’t man, long as you Rivet one side so it can’t pull, you put your full tiles in first, I set my half tiles that I use for border in, obviously can’t fit cause they aren’t cut right? So then I’ll use a long razor and trace scribe against my grid, I used to experience the same problem so I just wanted to weigh my own experience hoping I help someone else! Not knocking you!

@@TJPIZAZ No worries TJ. I was just thinking that if tile clipped then it will also mean no rivits if the grid is cut tight enough. Someone mentioned they didn't like the rivits in the chat. And there's also more than one way to skin a cat

@@steveannetts9909 always more than one way , but there’s always a more efficient way, but it takes trial and error rather than an opinion , though a trial from an opinion could take someone further, with great surprise as well. However as I’ve learned and was thought when I first began, you always put full tiles in first. You only really need to pop rivet when you’re taking out a section of ceilings

Not being a SmartAss but is there a better video?

Wasn't that hard for me, if you dont ha e any basic carpentry skills maybe you should just hire someone. It's pretty basic to me.

Put your gloves and safety glases on

Yeah , how about you make us a good video, it will be much appreciated sir !

@@chrismargarum6863lmao this comment though. So people should just never try to learn anything ever eh? Lol we need less people like this and more people trying to figure it out themselves. People charge way to much when sometimes they watching a video saves tons of money from the carpenter that just over changed them bc they didn’t know haha 😂

Has nothing to do with being old I'm 25 and I had to restart the video more times than that😁

lol im 22 years old. and i do exactly as you do. we just hide is well.

I'm running it at .5 speed as it's too fast for anybody to follow.

Were you planning on doing the entire job in 13 min and 28 seconds?

Good idea thanks

Does not come out perfectly flat their are geometric indications of planning failure

Plaster spikes for your wires?

Same problem

I suppose youve found your solution?

You cut another main you can connect mains together as long as you want You can go 50 feet if you want

Yeah, you'll probably want an easier process hanging, taping, mudding, sanding drywall over 3 coats. Then all u have to do is put a coat of drywall primer and paint it, all above your head. This drop ceiling is a huge pain. 😆

Very good

You have to push in/flatten one (or both) "teeth" that are keeping it locked in...that's the click you hear when you install it. There's one per side. Then wiggle it out and up a little and on a slight angle and it should come out. If you take one out and need to reinstall it, make sure to push/re-shape those "teeth" back out so they snap back in during reinsertion. Good luck!

To keep the main straight

Do that first.

@@Psychlist1972 but doesn’t the insulation rest above the ceiling?

​@@robmespeedy It goes between the floor joists above you. If you already have a finished ceiling, and you want to insulate, you may want to remove the finished ceiling first. If this is for noise and the ceiling is not already insulated, you'll end up with basically a hollow drum and will have to work that much harder to reduce the noise. If the existing ceiling is already adequately insulated and is an interior surface with conditioned air on both sides, and you are doing this for noise reduction, then you could use straps or netting to hold insulation up and still give yourself room between the new hanging ceiling and the insulation to run cables, insert/remove tiles, etc. If this is going in an attic or something else where the ceiling is an exterior surface/roof, you have other insulation concerns to deal with first. You don't want moisture trapped in between old drywall and new insulation (especially if existing insulation has a vapor barrier already). I'm not an insulation expert/pro, so consult someone who is in that case. In my basement office/studio, I've insulated between the joists above me, and am also using the 2x2 ceilume acoustic panels which have 2x2 foam sound insulation which sits on top of them. They are very lightweight, so no concerns holding that load up with a suspended grid, and because they are already 2x2, there's no need to maneuver odd-sized insulation batts around between hangers.

@@Psychlist1972 thank you so much for your detailed reply. I guess I should have been more specific with what I’m working on. My garage literally has no ceiling, it only has 4 beams going across. It looks almost impossible to frame it to add drywall so I was looking for an alternative for a ceiling and came upon this. The only thing is my garage gets extremely hot. So I’m kinda lost with how to go about insulating it.

@@robmespeedy Something like that is worth having a pro come in and at least make a recommendation to you. Just be clear on what you are requesting. Your options are going to vary based on how the roof is vented and whether or not you want to use the space up there. A drop ceiling is not a substitute for insulation. It won't really get you want you want there. Personally, I like high density spray foam directly on the inside of the roof (after adding in the appropriate vent channels), but again, it depends on your construction and venting. Insulation is one of those things that, if you don't know what you are doing, you can create a world of problems with moisture, mold, and more. The way one might frame for drywall, if you wanted that approach (after appropriate insulation) is to run furring strips perpendicular to the beams and attach the drywall to that. Or, you insulate the roof and have a cathedral ceiling (again, drywall) with some open beams below it. And, just to be clear again, I am not a pro. I've done a bunch of remodeling in my home, workshop, etc. but this is not my trade.

Beacause they do Professional job that last long not crapy jobs

Depends, but if current municipality laws are followed yes.

Flee that Communist sht hole while you can. I fly out there once a year to visit the in laws, and have to scrub the filth of Communism off with steel wool when I get home.

Yeah they will never hire an actual professional to video these installations

That's how u do it at ur jobs dont lie

@@shanoemichael4439 sure

@@dukethekiddjr.russell8831 who u work 4

@@shanoemichael4439 I work for a company owned by me and my Son

You can speed it to twice as fast through the YT controls.

If you’re looking for more details, you can read our full set of installation instructions here: www.armstrongceilings.com/content/dam/armstrongceilings/residential/installation/drop-ceiling-instructions-en.pdf

Lmao

The instruction is bad, if the room is out of square or bows and it bellies in the walls you would be pretty screwed, which is at least 95% of all rooms in my experience lol And you sentence is good enuff for you tube!! Imo

Really old ceiling tiles can sag for sure, especially if there's moisture. The rest here is just not true, or at least has no supporting evidence. I use the ceilume tiles in an armstrong grid. They look great, and are perfect for noise isolation.

@David li it's faster if you use a laser, makes things go faster. Wrapping those wires is mainly not allowed anymore. Most municipalities require a tighter group wrap.