Great video on distributer install. Built all new motor for my 1987 Corvette, 355 ci. Double Roller Rocker Timing Chain and Gears, Flat Tapet Pistons 10.5:1 compression, Flat Tapet Valves, all hydraulic. CompCams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Machined L98 Heads & 1.6 Stainless Roller Rockers, new valves, guides, and springs. Machined Runner's and Plenum. Having to replace the Pickup Coil meant removable of Dist., I hesitated. This video gives me the courage to do so. Thanks.
I have a 1966 Toronado and this job was super intimidating for me as I'm still kind of a beginner. This video was clear, concise and structures perfectly. I will be going to your website first for my next part need.
Always go to top dead centre on compression stroke( I prefer to do this at timing degrees so it aligns perfect to post) when it drops in the centre marker on rotor button should align with the with the marker on the distributor body where cap sits. then you are in correct place for maximum movement for doing the timing. especially important in a dissy with points.
Great video; suggest u show how to RNR as the first part of your video almost did ( u put the same one back in)... i guess one would need to have a method to line up an exact replacement somehow so re-timing is not not necessary ? (How to mark the new one so as to avoid the timing light issue).
hey i have a 1995 ford f150 4.9l v6 manual transmission,, is there any luck for this engine to make look as impressive as the on on the vid? and if so, how much would something like that cost?
Hello David and Chad, I have a 1978 Ford 302 engine in a pickup truck. Is there an O ring or seal where the distributor goes into the block? I think I might have a leak there, and that I might have to get this O ring replaced. The oil sits in two little depressions on each side of the water pump and distributor when it leaks out, and I sometimes soak it up with toilet paper. The leak is either from this or from where the intake manifold meets the block, but this latter joint was re-done not too long ago by a good mechanic.
this is informative... but you confused me with "don't crank over the motor" What if I'm only pulling the distributor because I'm replacing the head? I'm throwing timing out the window, until I put the crank and cam at TDC. which was where I wanted it, when I removed the distributor. don't you just make note of the position of the rotor, when at TDC, and then try and duplicate it?
cool now i have a better understanding of how to remove a distributor but i still wont attempt to do it on my own cause i know i'll screw up somewhere down the line lol
Wow. That's a lot of information... So, how do I lock out the vacuum and mechanical advance to allow my gm tbi upgrade (in my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6) to allow the ecm to control the distributor/timing/spark? "0 Thanks for the video. Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
I'm amazed how much you had to dumb things down (sorry to the guys who needed it) but you did over look two very important points. 1.) The relationship of #1 spark plug wire to the cap.. There are not 8 teeth on the drive gear and you cannot put #1 anywhere on the cap, it has a pre-engineered location.. If you want things to work correctly its gotta be in the right spot.. 2.) I never found this one till I was in my late 20's.. There are times when using after market parts, ie; intake manifold, distributor, etc., that is will happen, the distributor will bottom out on the oil pump drive before it sets down on the intake manifold (particular to sbc and bbc).. Hard on the oil pump first of all cause youre trying to clamp down the distributor against the pump drive and second you cant keep the thing in time (wants to advance itself) not to mention the oil leak cause the distributor isn't setting on the manifold compressing the gasket.. Just a little F.Y.I. from a guy who beat his own head bloody against a wall before he figured it out..
Don't be fooled. A clean engine on a stand is great for showing what to do, but it's a different smoke when the block is dirty and the distributor is in back nearly flush with the firewall. Prepare to use curse words liberally.
5 лет назад
That's why you're supposed to always keep your entire engine flawlessly clean and polished-up.
THANKS MSD! Chad and Dave really helped me understand this installation! Just replaced my OEM distributor with a pro-billet for my 5.7L 89' Chevy truck and she runs powerful now!👍🏽
I got a 350 chevy Elder Block, the distruburtor timing seems to be off, i rotate it car gets less power the ni turn it back it gets more power turn it to far i get back fires
If you are installing a new distributor on a new shaft. How do you align the distributor housing in the correct position? Or how do you make sure it is set in the right place?
I just bought an old 69 Chevelle with a 396. Which MSD kit would be the best replacement? I was thinking this one 555-40005 HEI Distributor, 121-6201 MSD 6-Series Ignition and 555-40201 8.0mm Red Hot Pow'r Wires.
hahahahaha.... try this on a dodge 1500 ram.... hahahahaha.... while the engine is actually in the engine bay.... or still under hood.... nope. AND keep your Dist screws from the old one. the new ones are too thin as I found out.
hi, what is the way when the position is lost? the zero mark on the flywheel is finger on the cylinder 1 cable? I have made the fine marking before, but which gear position clicks in is lost
What if the distributor was already out of the truck and fully took apart without any marks and all the plugs and wires gone so I had no idea where anything went, where would I want to point the #1 wire and cap??
Going to try and put my distributor on my 1970 Mustang 351W myself. Thank you for this video, you guys are awesome and I appreciate the energy and effort you guys put into this tutorial. Just subscribed.
BTW, I had an engine builder do all the building who is also a Corvette owner. I also have been doing some work myself since the engine was installed. Not a true mechanic per se but your videos are very helpful. Thanks.
@7233910 Keep in mind when the distributor falls in, because of the gear mesh, the rotor will move on you as you drop the distributor, you can usually compensate for it since it will turn as you drop it in. Best bet is to call in- 915-855-7123
I have a sbc and wanna put a crank trigger kit on it , I want to know what size wheel I need to buy for a 6 3/4 in. balancer can anybody help me out , Thanks .
When you’re trying to relearn how to replace your distributor, and the same guy who got you into cars in the first place and into the current mess teaches how to to get out.
i got my ditrbutior in timed at 12 dregress runs good but when i do a quik wom on the throtlle it back fires through carb with fire ball cane u help me out some one
What would be the cause of the Distributor not rotating to 5 degrees when setting ignition timing? it was at 12 btdc and i need it at 5 but it only went to 8.
No one seems to ever talk about this issue....which is actually the hardest part about installing a distributor on a rebuilt engine. The rest is a piece of cake.
i got a 72 chevy that dies after like a hr of running mechanic scant figure it out im trouble shooting at home doing tune ups any tips or good channels someone msg me thanks its had all tune ups my trucks really nice and just has some running problems also runs kinda chuggy
Why is it seemingly everyone who makes an instructional video feels the need to drown the audio with a music track? I had to turn the video off 1/3 the way through out of frustration trying to hear what they were saying. Happens more often than not. Really frustrating. I just don't get it. I wonder if they ever listen to playback and still think it's a good idea.
