I paid to have installed six of these window releases on some triplex apartment units. Within two-three years, the releases were unworkable. The cables freeze-up inside the coiled cable sheaths. About the only way to keep them free is with constant applications of oil. A real mess. Since then, we've changed everything to the push-button releases. Much better.
What type of push-button release did you use? Are they compatible with the Grisham system or did you have to do something with them to make them work? Thanks.
I hired a welder to replace the cable-operated releases. The new releases have a notched pin welded to the bars, the pin engages a steel box bolted to the wall. Inside the box is a spring loaded latch that is released from inside the building by placing your finger under a plastic guard, and pushing outward on a plastic button. The button is mounted on a rod that extends through the wall and into the back of the exterior steel box. They are easily operated. One supplier I know of is KingMetals.com. My latch is this one: www.kingmetals.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=3419
Based on an anatomy of a window frame, you'd have to drill your hole 2" away from the outside frame of the window to hit the center of the crippler studs (2: 2x4's nailed together). However, this video is showing the hole drilled about 6" away from the outside edge of the window frame.
yes you are correct but because code requires that studs be placed 16" on center you could have a stud right next to the doubled up 2x4's or anywear else that 16 on center lands such as 6" away.
Wendy,It is necessary to capture a stud behind the wall to securely fasten the window bar. The pattern on the 5/8" in. screw head does not allow backing out the screw with any conventional tools.Thank You,Grisham Bros.
Wendy,Screws were driven into the crippler studs. Could have also been driven into and through the window trim and into the wall cavity studs. Thank You, Grisham Bros.
The system I was forced to replace is shown in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p7g8wUiyJcY.html It is my belief that this foot-stirrup or "kick" system will get you killed. Especially if you are barefoot. The pushbutton or lever release system is far easier to use.
How do you keep the bullets from flopping around after the bars are released? Theres no hardware to keep these from moving around so you have to hold both of them straight before you can close it. This seems like a good idea with a poor design.
Generally the bullets fit snug and you would not experience any flopping. You can crimp the horizontal tube against the bullet fitting to hold in place. Thank You, Grisham Bros.
Where can I buy two 36" quick release security bars like those. Our neighbors house was robbed last month. We are worried about our families safety, along with our heirlooms.
Don't these are a joke..locks on the outside, screws on the outside (easily unscrewed about 6 differnet ways) the bars are hollow..on a larger, say 6 foot window with same hollow bar desing and I could break it with my hands...maybe down to a 4 or even the 3..would depend on my motivation..plus those cables sthey use are junk..buy solid bars..I'm making my own custom iron bars and releases for my house.solid iron artistic design SAFE and SECURE!
This has been a bear to install but I've gotten them on. I don't understand how to cut the coiled shielding off. Do you need a special file of some sort because mine isn't making a dent in it.
Eric, you want to notch the external sleeve and then snap it off. You can use a file or with a hack saw very carefully as to not cut the internal release wire. Thank You.
Tina, the installation screws are non-reversing safety screws. Would require cutting tools to remove. Important to note the window bar unit swings outward for clear egress passage. Thank you, Grisham Bros.
these are a joke..locks on the outside, screws on the outside (easily unscrewed about 6 different ways) the bars are hollow..on a larger, say 6 foot window with same hollow bar design and I could break it with my hands...maybe down to a 4 or even the 3 depending on the welder that day (endless factors for man or machine done) and the integirty of the screws (how close to center. how good of wood, type length of screw, sunk properly, etc)..would depend on my motivation..plus those cables they use are junk..buy solid bars..I'm making my own custom iron bars and releases for my house.solid iron artistic design SAFE and SECURE and beautiful...just got to convince the wife (Roxy) to let me put the faces on the sun and the moon for the front gates!!! And just for the record I'm making a LED light ( with wireless programmable controller) embedded mixed color epoxy resin and wood river recycled oak plank overlay for the fiery edged diamond plate steel rays of the Sun for the left gate and basically the same for the stars on the right gate that will have a moon..the overlay planks will be the "same" shape as the rays/stars just smaller so that they leave a 1/2" or so of steel border ...also only half the rays/ stars are going to be the solid plate, the other half are going to be outlined with hand shaped 14mm solid round and square stock. The best part (for now of the door) is going to be the visually hidden man door in the left main door. basically you wont be able to tell the Sun design is split in the middle and half will be on a frame that will be inside on the main frame. and the main frame ( which is all I have completed after a couple hours a day every couple days for the last couple weeks) is 60 3/4" W X 80" HIgh made out hand fab'd 3/16" diamond plate steel 3-1/2" x 3 -1/2" X 3-1/2" U-CHANNEL! The best part for later will be the high voltage stun gun prod rails along the top which can be a deterrent on their own or act as an igniter for the jets on the manifolds that will be hidden inside the u channel. the manfolds will be equipped with whatever the &*$% I want from propane to used motor oil and of course one dedicated for water misters as outside AC for the summer. OF course sensors, audio/video intercom, P.A. and deterrent siren, and all the other basics.
@@grishambros7662 its for our baja beach house and the wife wants to feel safe there while i travel for work so she doesn't always have keep going boack and forth to US. Plus don't forget the coming zombie apocalypse/civil war/natural disaster/etc.. also I'm using almost exlusively recycle materials/parts...only new components will be epoxy ( i'll try to find leftovers/unwanted) and the LED's may have to be new. I have parts to build everything else from trash or recycling yard.
We do have available a 36" x 54 tall unit. That would give you roughly 6 inches to split between the upper and lower section of the window bar. Here`s a link to the unit: www.homedepot.com/p/Grisham-36-in-x-54-in-Spear-Point-Window-Bar-Guard-WB3654BK/202770089 Thank You, Grisham Bros.
Christina,I`m not familiar with the pull type release, since the Grisham unit has the foot kick release system. Difficult to know exactly what you are experiencing. Could be an alignment issue with the latching prongs. Thank You,Grisham Bros
In some cases, the bars do add to the esthetics of perhaps a Spanish style home that is seen throughout California, and in other cases not as pleasing. We live in a different world now and it’s not easy keeping what you own from intruders. Violent crimes are up dramatically and surprisingly forced entry is down by 75% since 1980. I guess you could contribute the decline to better protected homes. Below crime statistics There are 2.5 million burglaries annually in the United States. 66% of these are home invasions. (US Department of Justice) Every 15 seconds a home burglary occurs in the United States. (Crimepreventiontips.com) Homes without a security system are 300% more likely to be broken into and burglarized. (Alarms.org) 46.9% of people don’t have a home security system installed in their home. (The Zebra) 83% of would-be burglars check for the presence of an alarm system before attempting a break-in. (FBI) 34% of burglars use the front door when breaking into a home. (Bureau of Justice) Police solve only 13% of reported burglary cases. (Pew Research Center) Thank You, Grisham Bros
Iron bars never can never really 'prevent' anyone from breaking in. You can cut through a bar in less than 30 seconds and yes, theoretically one could break the window and use a stick to push the release. Yet in reality, a burglar won't go through this effort if he/she can go to your neighbor's house that may not have security bars. If you are in fear for your safety, you should have a 'plan B' as to what you would do if someone was breaching the bars, such as a panic alarm or a firearm or some other escape plan. I have security bars and what they do for me is give me 'time', yet this will be a very rare event.
Its possible that you have too much tension at the foot release and in turn the lock bodies units are in open or slightly open position. In turn the locking bullets will not capture within the lock bodies. Hope this helps....
@@grishambros7662 I had to take 1/8" off the end of the holding mechanism tube. I measured carefully to make sure this was the problem. I'm more than a little disappointed in this product. When you have to push on the kick release are you supposed to put shoes on first?
I;m having the same problem with several of mine not holding shut. Obviously I can not see inside of the latching tube so I can not tell if the latch is not closing on the bar as it enters or if the end of the bar is not even reaching the latch. What 'electricamir248' did makes sense.
@@TES-bt8sv Gotta grind off the holding bracket tube about 1/8". It's a piece of shit product. I was able to use an angle grinder to grind off just enough to get it to latch.
