Since 1975 Grisham has been making security door and window security products to beautify and protect the home.
Grisham security door and window protection products can be found within residential and commercial applications across the United States. Grisham offers a wide range of styles, colors, options, and custom sizing to fit any opening. We use the heaviest gauge and finest grade steel in conjunction with our superior painting process to achieve a beautiful long lasting finish. Thank You for considering Grisham products for your next security purchase.
Bought and just installed this product from Lowes (now called Reliabilt not Grisham) to replace the garbage screen I bought in the past at HD. This is a far superior product than what I had before - far superior. I highly recommend this screen door. Buy it at Lowes.
We do have available a 36" x 54 tall unit. That would give you roughly 6 inches to split between the upper and lower section of the window bar. Here`s a link to the unit: www.homedepot.com/p/Grisham-36-in-x-54-in-Spear-Point-Window-Bar-Guard-WB3654BK/202770089 Thank You, Grisham Bros.
In a few cases the entry door locks might come in contact with the security doors lockbox which is factory positioned to avoid contact with the entry door lock. In this case the entry door bore holes may have been bored out by the owner of the home and not positioned at the standard conventional factory pre-drilled locations. Using the European style handles help in clearance issues. Hope this helps. Thank You, Grisham Bros.
Thank you yes that answers my question that your bore location takes into consideration the existing door in my case on my house. I am installing this 501 door. They are standard factory bores. I was just curious when I saw the deadbolt being installed on the bottom I would like to do a picture handle and was concerned with the knob colliding but if they are offset, I think I will be fine thank you
Remember, take into consideration the interior concealed screws as well. It’s always advisable to secure the brickmold to the wall studs with some 3-1/2 screws. The door screws will hold the door in place as long as the brickmold mounting surface is secure. Thank you for your question.
Use a 1/4" masonry drill bit for pilot holes into concrete block or stucco. For solid mortar wall it might be necessary to use concrete anchors. Here’s a link to using the non-reversing safety screws into concrete block: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K5gFVdFJDTM.html Hope this helps.
Wind chain spring.. The one that came with mine looks different than the one I saw in a video. It has no way to grab the two ends to wrap around the nail or the chain.
We do not have anything available to secure a protruding window airconditioner. There are custom fabrication shops that will make a box that will encapsulates the entire window air conditioner. Hope this helps.
@@grishambros7662 no I don't I have the directions & that is what it is called spring holder was suppose to get 2 ,one for top,one for bottom,only received one
In some cases, the bars do add to the esthetics of perhaps a Spanish style home that is seen throughout California, and in other cases not as pleasing. We live in a different world now and it’s not easy keeping what you own from intruders. Violent crimes are up dramatically and surprisingly forced entry is down by 75% since 1980. I guess you could contribute the decline to better protected homes. Below crime statistics There are 2.5 million burglaries annually in the United States. 66% of these are home invasions. (US Department of Justice) Every 15 seconds a home burglary occurs in the United States. (Crimepreventiontips.com) Homes without a security system are 300% more likely to be broken into and burglarized. (Alarms.org) 46.9% of people don’t have a home security system installed in their home. (The Zebra) 83% of would-be burglars check for the presence of an alarm system before attempting a break-in. (FBI) 34% of burglars use the front door when breaking into a home. (Bureau of Justice) Police solve only 13% of reported burglary cases. (Pew Research Center) Thank You, Grisham Bros
Yes, the door z-bar frame is longer than the door to accomodate an opening height up to 80-3/4" high. So if your opening is 80-1/2 high, then you would cut the z-bar to 80-3/8" long. The process involves cutting the z-bar 1/8" less than your overall height size. Hope this helps and thanks for your question.
My door is bowed outward which is causing it not to fit in the lock side channel without pushing on the door and wiggling until it goes it. Is this a matter of squaring up the door improperly? It's leaning a little to match the non-square frame.
Possible that the screen door is slightly bowed. You could bend the frame to fit the channel (called racking) by pushing on it either inward or outward until the screen frame bends and aligns to the patio door channel. Push on the frame starting in the center. Might be all thats necessary. Hope this helps.
Available via HomeDepot.com Grisham brand is not stocked in the Florida stores. Here`s some search info you can plug in for online search: Internet # 100577744 Model # 90002 Store SKU # 311101 Hope this helps.
These look awesome but do you have anything even stronger resistant to a burglar trying to get in? These are definitely a deterrent though. One more question, do you have something nice that can deter burglars that can be placed over Larson platinum storm doors as an added layer of security? Thanks.
This variety is our current selection available on HomeDepot.com and are available in black and white. As to an added layer of protection, I have seen the window bars used as an overlay over entry door glass panels. Can use stand-off or flush mount brackets with carriage bolts instead of the safety screws supplied. Hope this helps. Thank You, Grisham Bros.
Same type of screw people use on license tags on vehicles, except the screw for window bars will be a stronger type. Should be a special tip tool included with the windows or able to buy off line or good hardware store. The Bad, a crook can buy the same tool also though.
lol I wish it took <10 minutes to install one of these bad boys. More like 45-60 mins. 2 hours if you've never done it before. I know, I know, the power of video editing and most people would prefer the shortest length format to get the information quickly. It's not mentioned or really necessary, but I like to replace a couple hinge bar screws with 2" tamper-proof screws and add 4 more going through the outside of the lock bar cover plate, just for that extra oomph the intruder has to put in before dealing with the nightmare that is concealed screws. The video says to complete the lock install by referencing the manufacturer's instructions, but all deadbolts are the same concept and the deadbolt cutout should at least be shown being marked on the jamb. Seen lots of doors where the installer did not make that cutout and the deadbolt never actually locks. You can "lock" it and remove the key but if the deadbolt isn't fully out, it can be worked back in just like the knob latch. Don't know how those guys even make it out of the driveway, I wouldn't be able to make it 10 feet before having a callback because the deadbolt makes a weird thud noise when you turn the key. You should crimp the z-bars after they are cut to size, to prevent the weatherstripping from working its way out over time which often happens. I crimp the expander on both ends for the same reason, pair of pliers will crimp everything just fine. Some black painter's caulk in the frame joints and around the inside of the lock holes against the jamb does wonders for any spots of daylight and potential rain leaks. Give the glass frames a once-over with a hammer and block of wood to tighten up the corners which are often separated.
I've installed two of these doors (front and back) and found it very easy to do. However, when installing the expander at bottom of the door, I used IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Clamps to keep the expander from moving while drilling the holes. That worked great for me. Note: You have to remove the glass, which I did anyway to make the door easier to grip and handle.
The system I was forced to replace is shown in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p7g8wUiyJcY.html It is my belief that this foot-stirrup or "kick" system will get you killed. Especially if you are barefoot. The pushbutton or lever release system is far easier to use.
I have double windows, side by side with a plastic frame so I can't mount the two bar frames in the middle. I see there is a pin connector for this but wouldn't it be easy to push those open in the middle?
I'm having my contractor install these all around. They're not theft proof but they'll deter turn thieves away once they see its another obstacles. Cameras Alarm, Bars, oh and Dogs. Better than nothing because RU-vid videos showing thieves quickly throw something to break window and get in. But with bars it ain't going to be that easy.
This has been a bear to install but I've gotten them on. I don't understand how to cut the coiled shielding off. Do you need a special file of some sort because mine isn't making a dent in it.
Eric, you want to notch the external sleeve and then snap it off. You can use a file or with a hack saw very carefully as to not cut the internal release wire. Thank You.
The door didn't seem tall enough even putting all the extenders out at their maxiumum height. If it says 80 inches on the box, it should cover up to 80 inches, not 79 and 3/4
The sizing dynamics have changed through the years. Not sure which model year unit you may have purchased. Previous extended to 80-3/4 and the current will extend to 79-1/2 max. the 80 on the package is nominal size. Thank You, Grisham Bros.
@@grishambros7662 You call it nominal, I call it the height i need to reach or I don't have a screen door I have a very expensive sand sifter. Now I need to go to the hardware store for some metal screws and sheet metal for this thing.
Tina, the installation screws are non-reversing safety screws. Would require cutting tools to remove. Important to note the window bar unit swings outward for clear egress passage. Thank you, Grisham Bros.
