I was frustrated nothing I was doing was right! Your instructions complete & crystal clear. The outlet Is in and working perfectly. I even did electrical tape wrapped. Thank you so much for your help!!
I am in process of replacing a couple or reg wall outlets with GFCI. Your presentation is by far the best. Clear, concise and you added two good notes... the tape around the terminals and the pig tail for the gound. When I opened my box the original (electrician?) had connected one ground and pushed the other to the back. Thank you for the quality of your presentation.
The only thing I must say about your video is that you need to always get use to a saying: "Black-Gold, Silver-White, Green/Bare-Ground. If you remember that, then you are on your way to always servicing or installing an outlet/receptacle properly.
Thank you for demonstrating this. It’s so much easier to see something in action after reading. I read how to do it but the images in the book didn’t help. Your video made much more sense.
i just moved in and my GFCI outlet in my kitchen is not connected to the ground.when i turn on the garbage disposal everything stopped working including my fridge.should i try to connect the ground wire?thanks
HOW did you determine which wires consituted the incoming HOT line? You indicated early that you would get back to that later, but you never did explain how to make that determination!
This is a very helpful video. Nice pace, easy to follow and the extra step with the electrical tape was a excellent idea. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
When you have the wires disconnected like he does in the video, turn your breaker on and use a voltage detector. Only one black wire will be hot - that pair is the line.
NELK has inspired me to learn the ways of the ground fault circuit interrupter. I will be the greatest ground fault circuit interrupter expert there has ever been!
You didn't explain why you would want to connect both out going wires to the load or why someone might choose to connect one or both to the line. Sometimes you don't want GFCI on all lines leading out and thus getting tripped off by the GFCI. For instance, if one of the outgoing set of wires only goes to a light switch, you may want that light to be working even if the GFCI gets tripped which means it should be connected to the line and not the load.
The explanation of how GFCI works was poor. If in excess of 5 milliamperes goes from hot to ground, (less amps on one conductor than the other) then the unit trips. Water does not cause it to trip. If you plug a hair dryer into a GFCI that has 2 prong plug into a sink full of water, it will not necessarily trip. If you touch a hot and something grounded(possibly faucet, concrete wall, concrete floor, metal case of something electrically grounded) then it will try to flow through you. .5 amperes in heart can kill you. Link to article discussing dryer in water. iaeimagazine.org/magazine/features/gfcis-and-electrocution/ These are NOT outlet plugs. They are both duplex receptacles. This is important if you are trying to read NEC. The rest of the video, pretty well done! Respectfully, Kevin
Excellent... very clear thorough explanation. Video was also good... we can actually SEE what you're doing! Taking time to review the process was also very helpful. Thank you!
Probably wouldn't want to put "lighting" on the load... you can tie them into the line instead. If you put them on load, they'll go off if your GFCI ever trips (or is tested).
Great video, you explain the ground the load and the line side very well. So many videos only talk about the hot and the neutral. They don't even talk about line side or load On the gfci.but you did.
Nice video but it might have been helpful if you had differentiated the difference between the black and white line wires. The black being hot and white being neutral. I have had to work hot circuits many times and you really want to know the bad boy wire.
If there is more than 1 load going out , don't you need to make sure your not exceeding the number of outlets/receptacles that the gfci is protecting?I believe code limits the number that a gfci can protect.
If you turned on thr breaker it would be the ones that had power. The other would be dead. So youd have to separate all the wires by taping them to the wall or putting caps on them and then test it that way. I dunno im not an electrician but thats what id do.
@@ekoms108 That would mean you would need one of those voltage testers? I don't have one and am a little gun-shy about doing anything with exposed live wires anyway. What if I just assumed the line wires were on top of the outlet and then tested that hypothesis after I wired the GFCI with that plugin tester he used at the end? Would that work?
All you need is a simple test light. Separate all the wires. Then turn the power on. Then test each set of wires with your test light. Black is hot white is neutral. The pair that light up the test light are the line.
You forgot to say that the purpose of these GFICs is to occasionally turn themselves off for no apparent reason such as simply plugging something in at a cocked angle or slightly bumping the plugs. Then you find your cell phone and other charging units are dead un-expectedly while your far away from any means to re-charge them. Personally I'd rather risk that there might be a puddle of water on the floor I was standing in barefoot whilst I was sticking a prong into the hot side of the terminal..which is actually not a risk because it can't be done accidentally.
How to install just a ground fault period ????? That sounds funny to not know. Earth ground is only 1 bare copper to ground rod to pannel on only tbe green bar in pannel seperate from surrent 2 bars and 1 white nuetral bar. And all ciruits run a seperate green wire or if romax use the 4 wire or 2 wire with g. Only the green screw is isolated ground. All other withs even nuetral are travelers with current. Nuetral is not a ground, it carries half of a ac current of the ac circuit it applied with. If circuit is 120v ac, the nuetral carries 60 v at the speed heryz is rated.
Receptacle is upside down. Grounds should be on top. Say something falls on the plug in, like a picture frame. It hits the ground on top, not the hot. Learned this from master electrician who had to flip all the outlets in a government building so the grounds would be on top of the outlet & pass inspection.
I have found it nearly impossible to get the wire hook on to the "floppy" screw head. For some reason, they make these outlets with side screws that barely come out far enough to get a thick wire under it. And the screws flop in and out of their hole, so you have to hold the outlet upside down to let gravity pull the screw out far enough to try to get a wire hook around it. Why is this thing so difficult!? I have been working over an hour on this, trying to connect 4 wires to this thing. So far, I got one attached. Now, it's late and I'm losing the light, so I may have to stop and try again tomorrow. I tried stabbing thru the hole on the back, but the wire keeps falling out, even after tightening it down. There must be a trick to this that I'm not aware of.
That's the difficulty of trying to wrap around the terminal screws with these devices. It's the same thing with commercial grade receptacles, only residential grade receptacles have a "fixed" screw. Using the back wiring clamping method is the favorable way to connect the wires. It's still a very good connection method. If you're having trouble with wires falling out, use a pigtail and connect only one wire. Use a Wago lever nut for creating the pigtail.
Excellent video and I am doing this tomorrow morning. I was wondering what you were going to do with the extra white and black wires. Also, is it ok to cut the wires to shorten them? Why are they left so long in the first place? Thanks in advance.
I appreciate the time you took to make this video. With 6 wires plus a ground your video explained it perfectly and I was able to complete my project without the need of an electrician. Thank you!
He did not put two wires under a single screw. The receptacle he has was designed to put one wire under each side of the screw (not curled around the underside of the screw. Because it was designed that way, it's perfectly fine. If more than two wires were being connected it would have to be pigtailed.
Use an electrical tester. Determine which hot+neutral pair has current. That's the line. Be careful, because this test is done with the breaker closed.
No. Not the way he has it hooked up. If you want those to stay powered even if the GFCI trios then you attach them to the line and not the load. If it's only one set of wires they can be connected to the terminals with the incoming hot wires. If both out going wires are to remain unprotected by the GFCI then they should be pigtailed and nothing should be attached to the load.
Wow you explained that so well I had my load on top and hot on bottom the light was green but no power you really explained it soooooo well I should just pay you lol thank you so much.A load is what all the plugs are duh lol👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I watched several videos before I watched yours and they either went to fast or they didn’t show which plugs or explain about the line in and the loan and yours was perfect I got everything fixed thank you for putting the RU-vid video on
Thank you very much for this very explicit video👍 question: the hot wire, is it the one that make the light blink I that kind of pen .....??? I hope you understand my question. Thanks again!
