There were a lot of people ask me what to do if the box is not grounded. I made a video that shows the solution in that case. Thanks for the comments and feedback. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A02AIiqEwJg.html
What you are doing is called a "Bootleg Ground" , even through it may be conduit back to the main panel ... if it has 3 wire service { 2> 120/240vac Hots & Neutral } it still is not grounded per NEC with a "Neutral bonding jumper" and outside grounding rod & waterpipe grounding! Putting in new 3 plug receptacle without marking it with the " No Equipment Grounding" sticker is ILLEGAL !!!
@@Wanderlust1972 : No! if someone uses it and gets electrocuted to death thinking it was GFCI , you can be arrested for manslaughter at the minimum and maybe even 1st degree murder if the prosecution can stick depraved intent !
You'll need to see if your metal box has metal conduit of some sort attached. If it doesn't then the box isn't grounded. In which case You can replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet which will gain you some protection from stray current
Two things, 1) You want about 6 inches of wire stretching beyond the edges of the box. That gives you plenty of working room. 2) Attach that pigtail to the box regardless of the metal sheathing. There is a lot of paint on that box. I, personally, would NOT trust an old, painted over, probably somewhat corroded, box to permit a proper ground connection. Kudos on the use of the electrical tape. This will guard against arcing and the risk of shorting the screws against the box when you pull that outlet out and put it back. However, grab that roll of tape and wind in around that outlet a couple of passes. This lessens the chance that the tape will just fall off as the glue ages and will give you a thicker layer of protection. Good work. Be safe.
Came to say the same thing about 6" of excess to be up to code. I also agree on using the pigtail to ensure a good connection. Wrapping the outlet is optional and more of a preference thing. I personally in the industrial field usually don't tape my outlets as I hate working with outlets that have old gooey tape. But it does serve as an layer of protection from shorting. So each their own on the tape.
Good two points! 3. Also make sure to remove the square washer on that outlet mounting screw before screwing it in in order to make the metal-to-metal connection, i.e. truly self-grounding.
Clean the crude off the metal box face so you get a good ground when using this approach and as noted this only works if the box is connected to GROUNDED conduit. Frankly the GFI approach seems better if you put it as the lead outlet, this will protect all down stream outlets (just make sure you add the GFI protected and no equipment ground stickers to all the outlets protected).
Definitely a GFCI with a ground pigtail to the box (Of course only use the pig tail if the box is grounded through conduit and you for sure know the conduit is grounded) is the way to go. If you have enough room for it. Those old boxes can be a little tight lol.
@@aaronfixesstuff for someone like me who isn’t the most handy. I have the metal box conduit and just found out my 3 outlets in my office aren’t grounded. Is doing the “easy” and not gfi still ok?
Having metal boxes doesn't mean you can simply replace the outlet and connect the ground to the box, you can only do that if you have metal conduit running to all boxes in the house connected back to the panel and then grounded to earth at the panel. In most cases and probably in your case you'll have a NM Cable (Non Metallic Cable) running to all the metal boxes, which means that even if you do install a ground to the box it is not actually giving any protection since it cannot run back to the panel and into earth. That means you'll have one of two options to get your home up to code. You can either protect all of your outlets with ground fault circuit interrupters, or you can completely rewire the home.
The metal box has to connected to an equipment grounding conductor per 250.148 of the NEC code. Metal raceways can qualify as an ECG (250.118) but if you have old NM cable that's like Romex without no ground feeding the box then you wouldn't have the effective ground fault current needed to carry current from the point of the ground fault to the source to open the over current device.
Yea, I think I'd just install a GFCI receptacle on an old house instead. I'm not an electrician, but I've worked as an electrician's helper. Just my opinion. From what I've learned, I would rather if at all possible, go the full distance, and run two ground rods outside, 6ft apart I think is the rule. Of course you would likely have to change the whole service panel, unless it is fitted with an option to upgrade. See this is where I couldn't really be certain. I could probably tell when I looked at it. For most, it's more trouble than it's worth. Yes, old houses have less sophisticated electrical wiring, which can be dangerous when it wears from old age, a technical glitch occurs, or a bad storm hits, particularly if lightening strikes, but for the most part, if it ain't broke, why fix it i guess... On the other hand, i've seen what lightening can do to the wiring of a house that isn't fitted with the latest wiring techniques. It's pretty bad, and quite expensive to have repaired. Electricians aren't cheap. I think lead electrician's make around $60/hr. but the equipment costs are factored into that, so technically they aren't bringing that much into their wallet i guess. Am I right? Isn't that about right? Not sure, but I know it's something along those lines. I've been thinking about getting back into that type of work, but I have a lot to learn. Interesting stuff though.
Correct. Without a ground path this application would only create a false ground. Professional circuit testers will identify a false ground but the cheaper small testers will not.
Worth mentioning that the convenient gold "self-grounding" tab (or "The little guy," as you called it) will only work if the box is metal and grounded, *AND* if the box is flush to the wall. If the box is recessed into the drywall, even a little bit, the clip won't get pressed against the metal box. In that case, you need to screw a pigtail between the hole in the box and the grounding screw on the outlet.
@@gnoong5262 Use a multi-meter to test the voltage between hot and neutral. Then test between hot and the box. If the voltage is the same, then the box is (probably!) grounded back to the panel.
This is not allowed everywhere. Actually, though, I’m surprised that the outlet didn’t show as grounded to begin with. Every three prong outlet I’ve ever seen has the ground tied to the frame. The brass clip was added because paint or corrosion could get in the ground path. Not everywhere allows grounding through conduit.
Good job,, Love the nylon plates and the black tape is because the box is grounded and we don't want the black screw shorting itself out on the box./mudring
@@aaronfixesstuff if i don't have the metal conduit or metal box... can i jump a ground wire from a different nearby circuit? all coming from the same panel. or... here's what i want to do. install an outlet under the sink.. gonna have to use a gfci anyway. should i just install it ungrounded?
Aaron, good job getting a successful outcome. I'm not an electrician either, but my bet is you would get a ground with the old receptacle by removing the paper keepers on the back. Then sand the paint off of the receptacle and the box. You did the right thing by replacing the cruddy receptacle with a quality commercial grade receptacle with a brass spring clip to enhance grounding. I would have left a couple of inches more of wire, might be desirable in the future and there is plenty of room. I would also add the ground wire from the receptacle to the box, there no reason not to. Btw you could have done that to the old receptacle to get your ground. Good point about wrapping electrical tape around screws.
Thanks for the feedback Ted! Funny, a lot of comments said about cutting the extra wire. There was still like 8” in the box, but the camera did not pick it up unfortunately. But I totally agree with you.
@@aaronfixesstuff ok, got it. My house is old (1950) and I recently upgraded the receptacles and noticed some of the wires way too short and hard to work with. In a couple of cases I added length by using a push in connector like a Wago lever lock. I like the Leviton commercial grade receptacles like you used.
I felt this guy give a very good example. The one thing that was not explain which I will explain to you in this post. Is how to ground it from the the grounded metal box if the plug not properly cut into the metal box. You got to make sure the plug is tightly secured to the Box. If you use the breakable outlet cover. You will need that grounding screw to bring the box to the plug. The unbreakable cover you could turn the plug all the way down and still have no ground wire tied to it and use the groundIng the Box. But the number one practice is add the brown wire to the box and to the plug directly to you could confirm you got a proper ground connection. If your box is using a metal plug cover for the plug cover you can skip putting an extra grounding wire from box to plug. When the plug is sticking outside the wall at all times. So I suggest that you use a grounding wire when using a plastic wall plate. Due to you don't know how good that ground connection is going to be. So just use a grounding pigtail it's the best fix.
Very good video and informative Is it possible to ground a ungrounded receptacle at the breaker box? My house was built in 1951 but has a circuit breaker panel but I I just discovered that it was never grounded correctly. Thank you for sharing and any information you can provide.
Thanks for mentioning the grounding pigtail. That's a big help. Do you have any tips for cutting/stripping cloth wiring? (Our house has much older greenfield wiring. It is well done and definitely grounded, but we still have some 2 prong outlets.) This was much better explained and demonstrated than the video from Leviton. 😁
Wow! I really appreciate the feedback! As far as the stripping and cutting, it is the same process as newer wiring. Sometimes a strand will not fully cut, so you can get it with a blade. Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with!
@@tevman69 here is a link to a video I made that shows how to fix if the box is not metal. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A02AIiqEwJg.html
So the house was wired with AC/BX cabling, I'm I right? If so it should have been grounded automatically unless the bond back to the junction or service panel was broken or loose.
Thank you for the great video. Could you please confirm that you can only use the self-grounding clip outlet because your housing box is a metal box already, right? If the housing is plastic, it won’t work. You will need to replace the plastic box to metal box to make it works, right? Thanks
Hi Duc, thanks for the feedback. If the box is plastic, replacing it with a metal box most likely won’t work. Your question was so popular, I made a video that addresses what to do if you have a plastic box. Here is a link to the video: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A02AIiqEwJg.html
That creates a possible shock hazard as it turns the box into a path for current to flow or be energized waiting for someone to touch it and complete the circuit. Connecting the ground wire to a metal electrical box will energize the box in the event of a short circuit. The box could overheat and start a fire, or someone could get a shock from touching it. There should be an actual ground wire that goes back to the panel that is connected to the metal box and the outlet. New construction requires a metal box to be grounded and the outlet also (see NEC 250.148).
Thanks Such a nice and simple way to fix open ground problem. I have other question me trailer shows open ground and my exhaust fan dose not work please response Thanks
You still did put that ground wire in it’s just the hot and cold no ground that was a if you show there what you did was just put hot and cold that’s it lol I was just going to do the same but checking on the net to see better but it’s just one thing give it power 🤩 great video thank you
I have installed a couple of motion auto light switches, single pole. My house light switches don't have a ground. These switches say they don't require a ground, but after installing them, my led light fixtures flicker randomly. I only have a two wire with no ground system. White and black. On one switch the hot is black and the other switch the hot is white. I think wires are crossed somewhere along the line. My question is 1, the black being HOT, is the white considered neutral? I've heard it was, but the switch has terminals marked hot and load. Is load neutral? I see switches on Amazon that say requires neutral but not ground needed. Will these "neutral required" switches work with my wiring? Thanks in advance for your.
Great job! One question: in older houses (pre 70s), where the box is metal, can you assume that conduit was used and the box is therefore grounded so that using a preferred outlet will work, as described? Or is it the case that the box may still not be grounded even though metal?
Please update this video and explain to your viewers that the reason your method works that your box is grounded. Also 6 inches of wire is minimum requirement out of the box. Other then that good information video
Unfortunately you can’t update a video once it’s posted. If you look at the comments, I’ve said that there was more than 6” of wire left after I cut the extra. Glad you enjoyed the video!
So the outlets has to say preferred? I replaced a few outlets and they went from grounded to ungrounded and I've used PVC electrical boxes to replace the metal ones. I did ground it to a nearby junction box where i did the splicing but that's apparently not enough. I do notice i have new levinton outlets but they're definitely not preferred.
I think the word "preferred" is a Leviton description. Other vendors may use another term. The thing to look for is "spec grade" a universal definition that is stamped on the receptacle.
So I have an outlet that doesnt seem to be grounded. It has a metal box, but is using these thick wooden cylinder spacers. Im guessing this is why its not grounded. Can I simply add a pigtail to solve this from the receptacle to the metal box? It looks like at some point the ground area of the receptacle was kind of sitting on a little tab for the box and maybe thats how it was being grounded? Either way, I am hoping this solves an issue I am having where only 20v is coming in from the hot power source. Although I am not sure how far along the circuit this outlet is... Thanks!
I have a couple outlets which are in plastic boxes, both are using pigtails connected to the green screw on the outlet, and I'm still getting an open ground. What should I do?
How did you get the 2 yellow lights without grounding the outlet? Is that how it’s done? Because I have an older home that has no ground wires and I need to change the outlets.
Hey, I love this video, learned a lot! one quick question, I wanna try to replace an old 2 prong outlet like you did, same thing only 2 cables inside, is there way to know or make sure if the metal box is grounded or not?
if you have a multimeter connect one of your leads to your hot wire and the other to the metal box.. if you're showing voltage then the box is grounded
@@aaronfixesstuff replaced a 2 prong outlet with the outlet you mentioned, and tested with multimeter, as Juan Toledo suggested (1 lead to the hot wire and the other lead to metal box) to see if the box was grounded, and it showed voltage, but when I screwed the outlet to the box and tested it…it still shows open ground. 🤷🏻♀️
Does this help with sleep and overall leading a happier and healthier life? As electronics become much more prevalent in society, it feels as though the weight of the world is getting heavier with all the frequencies at play. I remember much simpler times where i’d wake up feeling light and now it feels like I have to move through a ton of toxic emf waste just to get my eyes to open.
We just bought a home the builder lived in. His electrician who built homes with him can not figure out why our grounded outlet is showing as not ground and also our lights won’t come On in the laundry room. So for us consulting a “pro” is not working lol! Great vid. Thank you.
What does it mean when the little tester center light comes on and the other light comes on VERY dimly? My tester does that at some receptacles and others it's on or off......not one in dim way. My house was built in stages, originally in 1948, then ??, then another room in 1979. At least three stages. Because the house was added onto, it's possible that some of the walls will have to be demolished, right? I do know that two of my interior walls were exterior walls at some point. Talk about a PAIN!! I think I probably have some metal and mostly plastic boxes for outlets.
I’m about to update my new home that isn’t grounded or up to code with electrical. It was built in ‘55 and does have copper wiring. Can I do this, before I have my box grounded so it can be out of the way, or should I wait until they come and ground it to replace/update all the outlets. And does it matter which wire goes into which side? Like does the neutral have to go on the left of the outlet or does it matter?
Bethany Olson, based on your 2 questions, I would say no, let them do the whole thing. In the meantime you can educate yourself on residential electrical wiring. There is an enormous amount of information on your smartphone.
Don't assume that because you have a metal box, it's grounded back to the panel. You should always test with a VOM by putting a lead on the hot wire and another onto the metal box. If the box is grounded, it should show you full current voltage.
My electrician used a multimeter and showed me this test you’re referring to. It would have been helpful if Aaron did the test in this video but maybe this will be an incentive for a new version of this video. 😊
All the outlets at my house that are grounded without any metal boxes and some outlets have three sets of Romex wires. Yes, three neutral, black hot, and three bare wires
Very helpful video, but it leaves open a big question. I do have a metal box, but no ground wire; how do I know if I have a conduit? Video says this won't work otherwise.
If you have a voltage meter you can test it. If you have a metal box you likely have conduit as well. But worst case, I made another video that shows what to do if the box is not grounded.
When that happens, it means the receptacle is worn and ready to be replaced, as the ground terminal in one outlet on the duplex is stretched and loose.
Without running a separate ground to a chandelier on a 3 way dimmer switch, how can I ground the chandelier? There is no ground wire at the chandelier junction box. just black and white wire..... i need to ground cause led dimmer type
Good video. Thumbs up and subbed. One small thing possibly? In older homes before 1978, I try to wear a mask just in case of asbestos. Gotta protect those lungs.
In cases where EMT is used, the EMT may not be able to handle the current associated with a short or has more resistance that acceptable for tripping a circuit breaker. In those I use a GFI outlet that will locally trip and only uses the EMT to sense a short and not actually pass a short.
I am confused about the ground. With will grounding it to the box energize the box if something goes wrong? or will the circuit trip first when it detects something and the box energizes rather than whats plugged into it?
"Will grounding it to the box energize the box if something goes wrong?". The short/simple answer... Yes. The box will be "energized", BUT only for a moment while it carries the current then causing the circuit breaker to trip. In this video, the box in the wall is metal, and it is connected back to the electrical panel with metal conduit, which presents a solid grounding path. By connecting the grounding terminal of the outlet to the wall box with a pigtail (which is required by N.E.C.), the ground path is assured, AND any 3-prong corded device (in proper working condition) that is plugged into this outlet will be connected to this grounding system. This grounding path is a low resistance secondary path which will trip the circuit breaker if/when a fault situation occurs (i.e. voltage leakage to the metal box or metal conduit). Of course, there is more to it, but this is what it boils down to. I will also add... please do not assume that just because you have a metal wall box, and what may look to be metal conduit coming into it, means that you have a reliable/solid grounding path available. To confirm this, a professional electrician should be consulted.
@@eugenewong2982 HAHAHA Thanks I asked a "professional" about the metal box not having a ground back to the panel, but he told me it was okay to ground into the metal box alone.
Dude you don't know that the box is grounded. Those large rubber plates look like shit, imo. Keep learning Aaron. You have a long way to go. I would always wrap the wire around the screw, and not use the trap and pinch plate. I think this is code in CA.
