How to Install a HVLP Lift Pump | 1st Gen Cummins 

You are on 🔥 with the uploads lately! Nice work. Whenever I do a fuel filter or with these pumps I would crack the fuel bleed screw at the outlet of the fuel filter and then pump the primer until fuel bleeds out. Cheers 🍻

Great videos. Got my first, first gen. A 1992 d350 dually flatbed. I've watched and done pretty much every engine upgrade you've shown, the fuel spring, pin, turbo intercooler pipes, eagle eye exhaust, piston lift pump, ect. I was able to max my fuel pump all the way out. But your videos make it super easy to follow step by step. I've recommended your channel to friends with first gens. Keep up the great work

Thanks for the discount code man, just ordered the lift pump can’t wait to install it.

Thanks for a well explained and inspirational video. I hoped id had my 1st Gen by now by i know the time will come and find one at my budget price. The 12 valve diesel engine roar brings back my childhood. My dad used to be a driver since age 7 or 8. Driver all his life. So he enjoy engines like CUMMINS PERKINS INTERNATIONAL all in the old country of Mexico.

Whenever you do this changing one of those pumps I don’t care if you put in a factory stock one on a hungry diesel high-volume pump which I think is a good way to go always take your number one cylinder valve cover off and make sure the intake and exhaust valves are closed somewhere near top dead center on the number one cylinder cam load the drives the pump will be on the other side so to speak and you’ll be able to put it in there you won’t have to trade her push up against a cam lobe this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell a Pennsylvania a

Another awesome vid Tim. My W350's gonna be getting this next, so far she's got 4" turbo back exhaust, THD fuel pin and 3200 gov spring. Bigger intake tubbing and this HVLP lift pumps next! keeper coming man...love the content!

Did this a few weeks ago…if you don’t tighten the banjo bolt before you prime the pump then you definitely don’t have to bleed the injectors. Keep up the good work!

Excellent tutorial video. 🙂👍 Great job man! 💯 Thank you! 🤝

If you purchase 2 studs and nuts to replace the mounting bolts …install them into the block first then slip everything onto them…you will not fight lining up bolts into holes. 8x1.25 metric thread I believe by 1 1/2”-2”long.

Another nice video, Tim. Good job. This mod is on my list.

Getting ready to do this myself. Thank you for posting this.

Great video man 🤘

I never wanted to cut the insulation...so i manged to carefully bend the hardline enough not to kink it ...just enough to clear the side of the block .

Great video! 👏

When you do that job is long as you have a decent valve cover gasket on your engine take the number one cylinder off the gasket or excuse me the valve cover and make sure when you roll the engine over to where the intake and exhaust valve are closed somewhere near top dead center don’t have to be perfect that way the camo you’re not fight in the camo trying to put the pump on it’s it’s a lot easier that way this is six in a row Jim From Kennerdell a Pennsylvania

Can you use your influence to get the lift pump company to pre bend the tube so that it goes right on a 1st. gen. W/O cutting into the head insulator, I drive a lot in very cold temps need that to keep engine head warm?

Dude great video but you should Be using Yellow fuel rated Teflon tape!

Ohhh that’s very cool y’all have a little crew well shoot you have a crew by yourself lol

Did you have to get another adapter i tried installing the pump today but the fitting from the old pump had no spot to thread to the hole there was much bigger

Tim did you temporarily move the battery cable to get the new pump in? Didn't see it happen.

Great video! I’ve been waiting on this video before I do this install on my D350! Couldn’t really tell, but they make a fuel rated PTFE Teflon tape which is yellow in color, I’ll be using permatex PTFE thread sealant instead to avoid dealing with possible tape removal or pieces of tape flaking off in the future. I’ve read there is a torque spec for the mounting bolts. I’ll let you know how it turns out!

How would you know if you need to bleed the injectors?

Love your videos! Could you explain what is the purpose of the high volume pump on a not modified or lightly modified truck (which I assume this one is)? Are there situations where the low volume pump cant keep up with the needs of the injection pump? Thanks!

😎👍 eres un buen mecánico amigo

What does the new pump do exactly?

Does installing this pump increases a good amount of hp?

Is there an inlet screen on the new pump ?

does anyone know how much power that these pumps can support?

Do you have to buy the new hose?

Would you recommend this fuel pump or a factory style pump for a stock application? I have plans to upgrade the fuel pin and governor spring in the future but that could be a while away, since I have some things planned before this.

So do you gain some more power out of this?

So what if the piece you cut with a box cutter is metal 😅

I did this today. What an absolute miserable pain in the dick! Your video makes it look like there is loads of clearance and everything is right in the open! Well.... no. Intercooler tube, master cylinder, brake booster, brake lines, hood hinge... all that crap in the way. And that insulation was made of cast iron. I had to get a serrated blade and saw at it to get it to cut, and even that was nearly impossible. I wanted to get the sawzall out, but no room. Finally did get it. To anybody doing this, prepare for about 4-5 hours of labor, and you will neologize some new profanity. A stool will help greatly. The bolt on the firewall side of the pump is nearly impossible to get to. I had to cobble together 3 extensions and use my cordless ratchet to keep the bolt spinning while I wiggled the pump around with my left hand... after I dislocated my shoulder so I could do that. Not the ideal way to start a bolt, but it was the only way I could see to get it started. Thank god for cordless ratchets. Oh, and use some masking tape on the top and bottom of the gasket/spacer sandwich to keep it from falling off into the abyss when you put the pump on. Just remember to peel it off once you finally get the bolts started. As stated in the video text overlay, you DEFINITELY want to install the pump with the hard fuel line in place, but loose so you can adjust it. On my pump (Genuine Cummins part), the hard line did not quite line up with the hole for the banjo bolt. It was off by a fraction of a MM, just enough to make it a PITA. In order to get a socket (17mm) on this, you'll have to un-snap the plastic clip that holds the throttle cable onto the metal bracket. The bolt is very short, so you will need to put a few of those really tiny thin rubber bands inside your socket, and top that with a washer to make a super shallow. That will allow you to keep pressure on the bolt while you turn it with one hand (use a driver, not a ratchet) and hold the line in place with the other. I tried with a wrench and a un-modified socket, and the bolt just would not start. Back washer kept coming out and falling down into the floor (thankfully onto the floor and not lost in the engine bay somewhere) because the wrench and socket both allowed the bolt to slide too far back. Forget starting it by hand. Won't go. But now I have 17 PSI of fuel pressure at idle. More than claimed. Dangerously high for a stock VE pump. The max inlet pressure for these injection pumps is 18 PSI. And that was 30 years ago when they were new. Be prepared to repair your injection pump soon with this lift pump.

😎🇺🇸🍺