Thanks for the video, I have 2 questions. -When you're using the regular pedal brake, does the rear fluid just pass through the handbrake setup and apply the rear brakes normally? -If the above answer is yes, does the proportioning valve (if the car has one) stay plumbed in the same order?
@@evrenyilmaz6445 the answer to both of those questions is yes. I did replace my proportion valve with a $100 adjustable one from summit. The setup has been working great so far.
@@evrenyilmaz6445 the answer to both of those questions is yes. I did replace my proportion valve with a $100 adjustable one from summit. The setup has been working great so far.
I was with you until you got to “the importance of knowing the type of fittings you need and the thread type before ordering parts...” that part of your explainer video of ‘how to’ was a bit short on how to... But hey, you got views!
This is very informative but if there is more diagrams in the video it definitely make it a little bit more involving. Like what made it sound kind of confusing is do you hook it up to the master cylinder to the handbrake feeding that through and then connecting it to your calipers?. Like the majority of the video was talked about how to angle and set up your brake lines. But as me as a consumer I'm looking to hook them up that's x but why and how did you get everything else set up. I don't know very ignorant on this topic but if there's more information it would have been lit
Couldn’t agree more. No disrespect to them but the video was absolutely helpless as far as info on installing a handbrake. Like this is how you’d teach a kindergartner about the topic, not someone that’s trying to do it at home lol.
The short answer is that the OEM DCCD opens up more depending on the severity of the corner. The handbrake doesn't have any affect on that unless you've upgraded to an aftermarket control unit (like MOTEC), then it can be programed to disconnect the diffs when the handbrake is pulled.
Ive done the inline on my rsx i have abs ,stock master,and the willwood staging brake.i can only move no more than a inch b4 it locks up the brake?i thought it would sling shot out when i wanted to launch?is that normal for it to be so stiff ?? Any info is appreciated ty
Wow, y'all really need abetter spokes person. This guy has a clip of chaw in his lip, his information delivery is not linear. The knowledge is there. Y'all just need a better spokes person. Check out oneielll rally school videos to see how it's done. BTW in not bashing your school or it's instructors. I'd love to visit and learn all y'all have to teach. Just feeling like you need a better spokesperson for your product
I have one question for you and I'm sure you figured this out after you put yours together. How the hell do you keep the fluid from going back into the other Reservoir on the main master cylinder and then when you push on the main master cylinder brakes it will push fluid back into your handbrake Reservoir. so how did you stop that problem
I always wonder how these interact with the regular brakes. What happens when you're already on the brakes when you pull the hand brake? Usually when I need the hand brake I am already on the brakes, trail braking as I set up the car and then just need the hand brake to nudge it over that traction threshold in the rear and initiate the rotation. Always wondered how the inline systems handle this. I assume its not an issue but I have read comments about blowing up the hnd brake mc and all kinds of internet horror stories that don't seem to make much mechanical sense to me... And (even though I can't think of a reason why) what would happen if you hit the brakes while you are pulling the hand brake?
It depends on how the car is setup. In an AWD, unless there is a center diff disconnect, you would have to clutch-in when you pull the handbrake to avoid locking up all four wheels. The top level rally cars all make it easier by disengaging the center diff. Depending on how shard the corner is, you should be able to accomplish the same results with the standard brakes but adjusting the pressure. We typically suggest only using the handbrake in tighter corners (hairpins and acute turns).
@@DirtFish interesting, so in the case of a 4wd truck, would I only be able to use the hydro e brake while in 2wd? I’m assuming if used in 4wd it would just lock up the front wheels through the transfer case (or blow the transfer case in the process)?
The works Ford escort mk 1 and 2 European ones not US escort. Used separate callipers for the handbrake and footbrake. That allows braking and handbrake at the same time.
No. This ties together the rear brake lines so this method wouldn't work and maintain ABS. You'd need dual calipers or a handbrake with 2 master cylinders so each rear wheel gets one. That'll keep ABS able to function. You'll have trouble if it tries to activate while you're handbraking though
Thanks for the response, I ended up going to a dual caliper setup. It's been working great and from everyone else I've talked to the pressure and reliability are much improved over inline. ABS fuse just gets pulled most of the time.
@@O_RaLLY Yeah that's correct. When you get to a certain point, you'll be using the foot pedal and handbrake at the same time to increase rear bias or lock the rears but also have front brakes which will skyrocket pressure and can cause premature seal failure in the calipers. Duals also help keep you from boiling brake fluid too. If you're pulling the ABS fuse a lot, you could always add a switch in line with the fuse to turn off abs with the flick of a switch/push of a button. I hate pulling fuses in general and would rather have something more convenient. Just food for thought 😉👍
I keep thinking about it but one I just don't want to put the effort into rewiring and also I feel like messing with the factory harness no matter how well you do it introduces risk for failure. My Rally lights are on their own dedicated circuit for that reason.
@@O_RaLLY That's fair enough. I put a 4g63 engine with AWD into my mini Cooper for SCCA rally cross so messing with stock wiring is pretty much unavoidable lol. I do have a standalone running the engine but all the body module stuff I have still there and have to modify to make everything work smoothly. Sadly, I can't do a hydro handbrake because of the center differential, but if I ever get motivated enough to go for it, I'd like to make a center diff decoupler that I can tie into the hydraulic line to disengage the rear wheels when I pull the handle.
