Installing mechanical fuel pump and first start. Sounds so good! Disclaimer: To the best of my knowledge this video is accurate. I am in no way responsible for any occurance resulting from following the instructions in this video.
Glad I could help. We are looking into getting a van or small bus to travel in or possibly move into.Sorry for the late reply. How do you like the van life?
I installed one on a 2001 Silverado today. My brother taught me a fast easier way. Instead of removing the tank, I took a few bolts off 8 of them to be exact the ones that hold the cab. I unscrewed 4 on one side and loosened 4 on the other side. This allowed me to tilt the cab where i placed a jackstand to hold the cab then rigth away i changed the fuel pump and put the cab screws back together took about an hour saved so much time
Again use the GM fuel pump push rod hold down bolt it's just to the right of the fuel pump between the fuel pump and timing chain cover. ITS A 3/8" BOLT THE HEAD OF THE BOLT TAKES A 9/16" SOCKET TO REMOVE THE BOLT. THEN PUT A LITTLE BIT LONGER BOLT about 1 1/2" long BACK INTO THE SAME HOLE AND "FINGER TIGHTEN" THE BOLT ONTO THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD THAT WILL HOLD THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD IN PLACE SO IT WON'T SLIDE DOWN. THEN INSTALL YOUR NEW FUEL PUMP. WHEN COMPLETE TAKE OUT THE LONGER FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD HOLD DOWN BOLT AND REPLACE THE ORIGINAL SHORT BOLT WITH A BIT OF TEFLON ON THE BOLT AND TIGHTEN THE BOLT DOWN. Inspect all your work put away your tools and such then start your Engine up. Let your engine run for awhile and as it runs look around at the gas lines and make sure you have no leaks. THIS IS a good time to replace old rubber gas lines when you replace your fuel pump so check all the rubber fuel lines for cracked or soft lines if it's bad replace them NOW so it will be done. You don't want a gas line leaking when driving down the road it's very DANGEROUS... Keep On Trucking Brother's 👍...
On the front of the engine block forward of the mechanical fuel pump there are two 3/8" course threaded holes. The upper one comes from the factory with a short bolt either 1/2" or 3/4" long. This bolts purpose is to keep dirt out of the hole which leads directly to the push rod for the fuel pump.Remove this short bolt, then before installing a fuel pump onto the engine, the push rod needs to be held upward with your finger, then with your right hand screw in a 1-1/2" long 3/8" bolt up to the push rod to hold it in place. Finger tight only! Install your fuel pump, then remove the long bolt and replace with the short bolt to keep the dirt out. Never should you ever leave a long bolt in this hole or tighten it with a wrench up against the fuel pump rod.
Mr. T.: Yes if the cam lobe is in the low spots the fuel pump push rod will be up further if it's down lower just turn your engine over by hand until the fuel pump push rod goes up higher then hold it there with your finger and tighen the hold down bolt with your fingers ONLY never use a wrench if you do it will make a divet in the fuel pump push rod and that's NOT GOOD... NOTE THIS MAN AND A FEW OTHERS HAVE THE ONLY RIGHT WAY OF HOLDING THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD. GM made that Fuel pump push rod holding bolt for a reason so people can change there Fuel Pump easier... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
@@dustinsirrine227 yeah it wasn't moving for me. So I bumped the key and then it was just flopping up and down really easy. Used to hacksaw blade it works good
Mr. T.: It works but why use something that can mess up your Engine? GM made that "Fuel Pump Push Rod Hold Down Bolt" just for changing the Fuel Pump and I just don't understand why people don't use it?? Maybe because a high percentage of people don't know about the "Fuel Pump Push Rod Hold Down Bolt" and make up other ways to get the job done and that's okay but when you have been told about it and don't use it or make up stories like the guy that made this video saying "my Small Block Chevy Engine doesn't have one" that's the part I can't understand because I've never seen a SBC Engine from the early 1960's to the last Carbureted SBC Engine made in around the mid to late 1980's NOT HAVE ONE and I've seen +many+ SBC Engines in fifty five year's of being around them that have been in all types of GM Vehicles!! Next time TRY USing the "Fuel Pump Push Rod Hold Down Bolt" you will be amazed at how simple and fast you will get the Fuel Pump Replaced... But "to each his or her own" as we use to say... NRA ALL THE WAY MAN... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
Thanks for the info. Love the incredulous look after reading the installation instructions on the box! Probably written by the legal dept at manufacturer
Thanks a lot for posting this video. I was going nuts trying to figure out what I was doing wrong in trying to install a new fuel pump on my 1973 Chevy pickup. Its' been years since I have worked on a Chevy V-8 and I had forgotten that I had to push that rod back up into position to reinstall the pump. Your video saved me a lot of time praying for forgiveness for my anger, frustration and cussing at this minior project. CHEERS AND THANKS AGAIN.
Well this "youngin" was raised old skool haha. Always had and always will own something 25 years older then me. Right now, my new project is a 77' Jimmy High Sierra. Over 400k on it when I bought it an still runs till the fuel pump took a shit lol. Haven't had to change a mechanical fuel pump since my 78' Rado. Bowtie for life folks bow tie for life :)
its a damn shame that most junk yards are crushing these beauties. Deemed a safety issue, They wont rebuild and put them where they belong.. THE ROAD! But I do what I can with what I come up on.
theirs usually a bolt in front of the block you can tighten snug that will hold that fuel pump push rod so it will stay in place while pump is pulled off, did it on the side of the road on my 68 gmc p/u when it failed just be sure to loosen it again after pump is installed
That looks alot easier replacing it from the top I have a 79 chevy van I've replaced the fuel pump 2 times both times laying on my back on the ground its a job. nice video
Just finished installing my mechanical fuel pump on my 78 camaro. Very happy with the video, and the whole needle nose pliers and flat head screw driver did the trick as opposed to the grease that the instructions say.
@bowtau9 Thanks, if you are using an electric pump on a carbed engine you also have to install a fuel pressure regulator. Electric pumps usually have more than the 6 - 10 lbs needed for a carb.
First you can bump the starter to get the pump pin to the full retracted position so the pump will bolt up with no pressure on the pump spring. There should be (2) 3/8" X 3/4" bolts (often see empty threaded holes) on the right side about 2" behind the pump flange, Replace the upper one with a 3/8" X 1 3/4" or longer bolt, push the rod up and gently tighten the long bolt to hold the rod up in place DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE LONG BOLT before cranking the motor.
Alot of things are easy on this truck. I had a V8 S10 and every winter I took the engine out to clean it up. The fuel pump had to be removed to get the mount bolt out. Everything was a tight squeeze!
There is a bolt hole on the front of the block (may have a bolt in it). It is top passenger side of four holes used for a horse shoe motor mount in some truck applications. The top hole goes all the way into the fuel pump push rod passage, and one of the fuel pump mounting bolts is the correct thread and length. Remove one of the fuel pump bolts and thread it into this hole. Bottom it out "lightly", so as not to damage the rod, and it will hold it up for you. Knowing this can save a ton of frustration on the side of the road. :)
I would NOT expect every block to have it, but it was a standard back in the day. I've not run into one without it...perhaps the DART 400 blocks don't, and maybe 87 and on when FI became the "norm".
MudRFunR: ALL SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINES 1960's to THE LAST CARBURETED SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE HAVE THE "FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD HOLDING BOLT" most people just don't know about that bolt... And in some engines the bolt has been removed because of ignorances. That bolt should ALWAYS be in that tapped hole other wise it leaks oil out of that tapped hole... So use what GM engineers made that bolt for it makes the changing of the Fuel Pump on a Small Block Chevy Engines a lot easier and faster... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
@UNIVERSALCONSOLE Not sure exactly but sometimes the pump will leak from a hole in the casing. If it leaks the diaphram is ripped. You could check the fuel pressure. It should probably be around 7psi, (just my guess). sometimes when a mechanical pump starts to go it will lose power when you rev it but only after it warms up.
The plunger can be seen at 3:49 it's black with a red spring pushing against it, but this is not what you need to push up. Do you have your pump off? If you do, you should see a metal rod in the engine block. This rod goes to your camshaft. If you don't push this rod up, you can't get the plunger under it. Hope this helps.
@Justmack69 Not a chance that the retun line would cause this. The most common problem with fuel gauges is the ground wire from the tank. There should be a ground from the tank to the frame. Check the connection at the frame.
@UNIVERSALCONSOLE Have you had the tank off? Are the lines hooked up to the right line from the tank? Is there a leak in the line? (this can cause it to suck air) I've even seem the line inside the tank broken or cracked, also causing it to suck air. Hope this helps!
There's a bolt right in front of the block beside the fuel pump rod remove it put a longer bolt in to hold the rod in place untill you get fuel pump bolted on. Then remove bolt replace with original short bolt
Your video helped a lot, I'm getting ready to change the fuel pump on a V6 Mercruiser in my boat and would not have known that I need to push up the plunger. Thanks.
It ts actually called aviation gasket sealant. I only use it on the one side of the gasket. You can use any gasket sealer or silicone. This is just what I like to use.
thanks for replay . You mean the important side is between the pump and the gasket . and no sealent between engine block and pump. your video helps a lot thanks.
MudRFunR ;Why not do it right an use the bolt GM put in front on the block just in front of the pump inline with the fuel pump rod. It's a short 3/8" bolt, first clean around the bolt before taking out. Then take the short bolt out and then put a little longer bolt in it's place and tighten by hand softly it will butt up against the fuel pump rod and hold it in place. Then remove the old pump clean up the old gasket put new gasket and new pump back into block replace both bolts. Then remove the longer fuel pump rod bolt and replace with the shorter original bolt tight back down and then replace your gas lines then your ready to go... Using the GM fuel pump rod bolt is a lot easier and quicker; Besides Why do you think GM engineer's put it there??
Dustin Sirrine, good to know. I have 66’ Chevy truck and I’ve replaced the fuel pump, but I think something went wrong with the rod when I installed it. So I’m going to take it back off and make sure that rod is in the proper position?
Brandon Dismore ; As far as I know there is only one hole to put the fuel pump push rod into. Are you using all the same parts that came out of the block and just adding new fuel pump ? If yes is the cam old or new ? If you bought the correct fuel pump did you make sure you have the lines put on correctly ? Some people get the lines mixed up and put the in line on the out line and instead of pulling gas from the gas tank it's sucking gas out of the carburetor so if your pump is the correct one and all else is well just maybe lines are on wrong ? Or 3 other things; #1; If the cam is old it may have a bad fuel cam lobe (they do go flat if a lot of miles on engine or if older engine it may have been run with the wrong oil may need ZDDP oil if 74 or older not using the proper oil can make the cam lobes go flat) that makes the pump rod work ? OR #Two; The new fuel pump could be no good ?? OR #Three; Is the fuel pump push rod badly rounded in on either side or both ends ? It can be just short from many years of use ???? Hope you can get it running and hope One of these help if you haven't already figured it out? I own a 63 C10 pick-up 327 going in God Willing this summer. Keep On Trucking Brother....
@MudRFunR Thanks for reply The reason I ask is because for some reason our carburetor didn't receive any gas so we bought an electric one and also replaced the fuel pump but it still doesn't get any gas.
and by the way the fuel pump I was changing was on my old school 1968 327 corvette engine in my 1946 Studebaker Pu. the same one you can see the guy before I owned it made a youtube video of about 4 years ago the white and maroon fenders 1946 studebaker video thanks for your video though, Terry Decker
@brucekirk89 Good question, but I don't have an answer for you. I do know that the gauge won't work if the ground wire for the tank isn't connecting. Aside from that I don't know how to check it.
@MrKelvintatum Mechanical pumps are much easier to replace but fuel injected engines require more fuel pressure than carb engines. Most anything injected has an electric pump because they have more pressure than a mechanical pump.
@hprincesss1 The rod runs off of a large lobe on the cam. If the engine happens to be turned with the large part of the lobe facing the rod then it won't go in very far. Try using a socket (5/8) on the center to turn the bottom pulley about a half a turn and try the rod again. It should go in farther then. Let me know if this helps!
Berny Shomstein: You should have used the fuel pump push rod holding bolt that's what GM made it for. If your interested read some of the other post I wrote on here it tells about how to use the fuel pump push rod holding bolt. Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
Gr8 vid bro , this help me much i was going to install an electric pump , but now im going to keep the mechanical 1 in my 71 chev c10 with 350 sb . Thx for posting , I will be replacing pump soon due to your vid ....
@Justmack69 its most likely the sending unit that would cause that or the guage itself the ohms might be different as well between the sending unit and the guage. Those are the only three things that I can think of. I have the same issue but mine was the sending unit being stuck (easy fix) read full when i was empty. thanks for the vid. im doing this today on my 65. looks easy enough...but every time I say that then its not lol.
Forvitnir: Many people over look a good ground. If the old ground straps have broken off or just old the gauges and radio in many vehicles will not work properly. Look up on the web your vehicle type and ask where are all your ground cable's located and you can recheck all your ground cable's to make sure they are still good if they are bad or missing Replace the ground cable's and nine times out of ten times all your gauges and radio and other electrical components will work again or better now that you have all your ground cable's replaced. Hope this helps other's out there in video land cuz I know this is a very old video BUT CHECK YOUR GROUNDS people... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍....
MudRFunR; Then you have a Large Journal 327 they were made from 1968 to 1969 that's why you can use a newer 70's block because all small block Chevy engines from (1967 Camaro SS 350 CID engine the only Large Journal in 1967) 1968-to the new Generation 2 SBC engines are Large Journal. (Except for the 400 SBC they are a bit bigger journals) Large Journal 327 are great little engines... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
your video very helpful for a novice like myself however I have a problem I cannot budge that steel rod to get it up and out of the way for installing the new fuelpump any suggestions I have tried moving it up with my fingers, my needle nose, a hack saw blade etc and I simply cannot budge it . thnx
@MudRFunR apreantly i ran out of gas guess my gauge is broken,,i put a can of gas in it and it started right up??how do i tell if its the gauge or sender unit
Gr8 vid brother . good info for the newbies . I see your an old school GM gear head, and new school gear head . Keep it up , you have helped many with this vid, well you and yours. lol .
A bad fuel pump can cause hard starting but a plugged fuel filter or leaky line can also cause this. A battery usually doesn't get damaged unless it gets run down too much or too often.
Sounds like dirt in the float needle. I only take a tiny piece of dirt to cause flooding problems. Is it a stock carb? (possibly quadrajet) Some carbs are simple to clean out, but I couldn't explain it in writing. Sometimes if you tap on the sides of the carb with a wrench or a very tiny hammer, it will sometimes fix it for a while but chances are it will not fix it but get you going for a while. If you can't get at the sides, try tapping on the fuel line or near it Hope this helps!
MudRFunR: WRONG ADVISE... NEVER USE A HAMMER OR ANY OBJECT ON A CARBURETOR... IF YOU DO YOUR GOING TO SCREW UP THE CARBURETOR BADLY... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
+dick sanders On older engines there is no fitting to fit the pressure gauge. You need to remove the hose near the carb or filter and attach the hose to the tester on one end and get another hose to re-attach the other side of the tester to the carb.
Awesome looks exactly like my set up. Love the tips and tricks for sure! Maybe good no one will be taking a video of me hanging over the truck lol ( or maybe cussing a bit )
At 3:00 in this video, you can see a metal plate with 2 bolts. If you take the plate off the rod will come right out ....unless the other end of the rod is damaged, it might need some persuasion to get it out.
Some blocks have a bolt attached to nothing near the water pump. Take the short bolt out and put in a longer one to hold the pin. Not all blocks have this.
MudRFunR ; I know this is old and my response is late but from what I could see in your video your engine has the "GM Fuel Pump Push Rod Hold Down Bolt" on the front of the block so why didn't you use it ? It would have been so much easier and faster... Keep On Trucking Brother 👍...
The third line is the return line that goes back into the tank. Some older cars don't have a return line from the tank. Not always necessary but the return line does help keep your fuel cooler.
Something I forgot to mention in the video is that if the camshaft is turned with the pump lobe facing the pin, it is difficult to install. Sorry, for next time, just turn the engine over a half revolution to make it easier.
@abtopgun101 The Chevy fuel pump has a rod that runs off the camshaft. Some engines are similar but have the rod running off the crankshaft. Not sure which setup you have but it should be similar. What engine is in your T-bird?
Save yourself a lot of agony and put your engine on top dead center and the rod will be at its highest point . The hole that holds the rod in place on mine I had to grind the tip of the bolt to a point because the bolt wouldn’t go all the way through to hold the rod in place . FYI.
My car was fuel injected I changed it to a carburetor and took the fuel pump out the tank so I can put a mechanical pump on the side of the block but there wasn't a rod in the block where the plate was now that I do have the rod it want go in dont wanna force it n so wat do I do ...
Great video. That's a big job! Is there no such thing as a fuel pump "rebulid kit" anymore? Maybe it's not worth it to replace the gaskets, plunger, springs, etc. I removed an AC Delco pump yesterday from a Studebaker that needs rebuilding and wonder if these kits still exist. It's a mule of a job to reinstall as there's no room to work. Anyway, good well-explained video. You should do more of these...........
Great video.. Would this be a good guide to use on my 84 Trans Am with a 305 sb?? I think my pump went on me last Friday.. Was running fine since March then wouldn't turn over.. But spraying some carb cleaner spray would get it to start but then it would quickly die afterwards..
