I have an 86 K10 But I can't get the pump lever all the way in and fully under the rod. The rod won't raise any higher so trying to figure something else out
This whole time I was just using a stick to keep the rod upright, then I would very quickly move the pump in.....this video helped. I didn't even think about using that' bolt. I'm going to remount the pump today on my 350 small block.
Was fighting the rod today on my 74 monte carlo i couldnt get rod fo stay in place an the rod was to far down for me to get the bolts in now i felt like rookie mistakes but man today has been a day thanks for the video🎉
I'm 64 also have worked on old cars and trucks most of my life I like you have fought this rod to long before watching this video in a couple of minutes he had my problem solved he is quick and to the point unlike other people's videos.Good job.
THAT ROD IS THE EXACT ISSUE IM HAVING WOTH MY ENGINE. I didn’t know that. Thank you so much for showing that. I’ve been fighting it for a while now to the point of almost giving up and that was the issue all along. But my fuel pump doesn’t have that bracket that goes in between the fuel pump and block though. I don’t know why it didn’t have one
FUNNY STORY: I rebuilt my 350 SBC back in 1998 for my 1978 Trans Am, using Edelbrock cam, carb, intake, etc and full machining. I've put 25000 miles on it in the 24 years since as a summer hot rod. Also got married and had a couple kids. So now the fuel pump started leaking and I watched your video. I find that I am missing that bolt that locks the push rod in place. I must never installed it since there is orange paint in the threads. Now I know where the oil has been leaking from all these years!! LOL. Now I'm wondering about that lower bolt hole, about 1.5" below. I can shove a wire in there well over 1". And there is roasted oil all around that hole. It may be from the upper hole, but I'm wondering what that lower hole is for. I noticed your lower hole doesn't have a bolt in it. Can you advise what that lower hole is for? I'm thinking to put a short bolt in both of them just to be on the safe side. Great video by the way!
When installing the fuel pump with the fuel pump rod completely up the fuel pump should sit flush against the block when tightening the bolts it shouldn't have any tension.
Cool thanks man I have an 84 cutlass supreme with a chevy small block and my fuel pump is throwing fuel out killing my mileage. I have never changed a fuel pump outside the tank. Thanks man
Very nicely explained video. Getting ready to change my fuel pump on a 1982 Chevy K30 pickup. I’ve watched a couple videos before this one. This is the best by far!
I am really happy I found your video. You did a fantastic job explaining everything and the close up pictures were excellent too. You went straight to the point! Thank you!
Fffff i just did this job on my 1979 z28 and it took me 4 hrs its a lil harder when you dont have much space but thanks to your video i was able to replace my fuel pump third tried cranking it n it turned on one thing less to worry about thanks man!!
I have an 88 Cheyenne. The previous owner put a 4 barrel carb on it instead of the fuel injection. He ran the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical pump on the older used engine that he installed. The electric pump pushes fuel to the mechanical pump on the side of the block. My question is; is this ok to do or will it cause problems?
ha, ironic I have the same hat and about to install a new pump on my camaro. The black looks really clean, debating on that or the typical chrome look. Nice vide bud, short and to the point.
Great Video...No, I'm gonna make everyone in the world think I'm hysterically funny B.S.!! Thank you for that. I 'm doing my 80 corvette pump right now and had no Idea how to hold the rod in place...Many Thanks!
I put all 4 bolts in and let it dry 24 hours then remove the top 2 and install the pump. This holds the plate in place if you tighten the bottom bolts without tightening the top you will have a gap.
I actually knew this trick but thought I missed something when I tried a bolt from a puller kit (not enough threads). I am working on the same exact truck but it has a 307 and they apparently came with a 1/4" outlet with the 3 pumps I had here all being 3/8". I can probably find another bolt, but that trick of using a mounting bolt in a pinch is a great tip. The juggling with the heater hoses, ground wire and brackets makes me want to run to the hardware store. Great video. Another tip for someone just doing a replacement due to failure is have a set of angled pick tools to weasel around the rod and get it up into place with the plate on.
@@sbcbuilds5517 Big thank you. Got that truck done in the yard during a snow storm because I had a Camaro in the garage and it runs a lot better. I ended up running new 3/8" lines. It still has that beautiful low compression cranking noise but fires up so much faster. Good looking out.
me too don't feel bad I'm glad I didn't turn my truck upside-down to put the pump on it was starting to look like theonly way to keep the rod up me too don't feel bad I'm glad I didn't turn my truck upside-down to put the pump on it was starting to look like theonly way to keep the rod up
Excellent tip. I remember that push rod being a major pain when I replaced the fuel pump on my 348 10-15 years ago. Well, it's time to replace it again. I'm definitely doing this hack this time!
Is it possible that the camshaft will be stuck in the fuel pump rods furthest outward position? I can't get the pin to push upwards into the hole, do I need to manually turn the engine over a bit to cycle the pin inward?
I've made a big mistake not pushing the rod and installing that fuel pump now that rod it's stucked , didn't put my ingine on top death center I broke the fuel pump also ,, any advise to get that rod out? ☹️
🟥 1) put motor oil on the rod before install 2) put a dab of grease on both ends of the rod 3) use copper coat spray on gaskets instead of silicone. (You don't want that shit to find it's way into an oil galley) Been building these things since the 60s. Never a problem. Then again, everybody does things differently.
Just spray the gaskets and stick them on? I failed miserabely today using silicone. It made a huge mess I didnt feel comfortable so i took it all apart and cleaned it. Ruined both my gaskets in the process.
@jeffmarcum3643 I take a cardboard box, put a hole in the top,drop a wire down the hole,put my gasket on the end of the wire,spray both sides of the gasket with the copper coat spray. When it tacks up, stick it to where you want and assemble. Easy peasy...Done
Chris ,Excellent tutorial !Spot-on reassembly sequence. Great results on my 65 c20.Please post vid of your awesome clean rebuild so we can hear that engine running ! Thanks , Jonny
Ha! Check out some of my newer videos there are some nice shots of how it’s coming along How to Replace Your Carriage Bearings ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sf-c0srktDo.html and CUSTOM Cup Holder ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fz5dQLHam3c.html
It will run, but your going to leak some oil, that goes directly to fuel pump shaft that is lubricated by oil pumping in engine. It’s a super common size just find a new 3/8 - 16 thread and about 1/2 inch long.
Hell yeah thanks for the info! Great video and very informative. Not overwhelming and just enough to get us by. Glad to see some updated videos that aren’t 480p and 7+ years old 😅
Thanks for the video. On my block the threaded hole on the side is not a through hole, so it can't be used to hold the pumping rod. Oh well- the assembly grease should hold it.
I’m currently replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my 76’ Chevy. The push rod is stuck. I’ve greased it up, tried to use pliers to pull it up, removed the bolt that holds it and tried to manually crank the engine. Still nothing. Any ideas?
Any reason for utilizing a silicone sealant as opposed to say a gasket dressing such as Hylomar? Just curious as I am fixing to do this job soon. Thanks for the video!
Im missing the original bolt for the hole you put the longer bolt in to hold the pushrod up. Any chance you know what size bolt should be there to begin with? Found out thats where my oil leak is from
I never knew about that bolt. I was taught to put some heavy grease on the rod to hold it up, which works so long as the motor is cold. The bolt thing makes much more sense so long as you don't crank the bolt down and damage the push rod.
Hey man I got a 93 chevy tbi 350 what’s should I do to cut off the electrical fuel pump to install the mechanical pump so I can skip buying the regulator?
Odd... my 327 in my 67 impala does not have the holes for the bolts. Its just flat. Makes me wonder if the previous owner did something to it, or if this year production did something different.
@@ChrisNCars That was my first thought, but I checked the casting number. It is dated for this car, made in 67... definitely in a time of mechanical fuel pumps. Never been so confused. I'm currently working on it, wondering how the previous own put on the mech fuel pump that's on it.
Yeah 1/2 will work. His has 11 threads on it so it's assumed to be 11/16" or 0.6875" long. I have a 3/4 which is the smallest lowes sells. So either I'm grinding it down to half or placing washers in between. I believe the 3/4" length will be fine but I haven't seen anyone mentioned the length and I've already installed a new pump and don't want to remove and see if it interferes with the push rod.
All right I'm going to try this tomorrow on my 71 K5 for the first time ever. Wish me luck. Was going to go with the electric fuel pump but the fuel pump has lasted a very long time. The spring broke off the rivet so now it doesn't do anything. New one going in tomorrow. Awesome video brother, thank you so much for the help
Damn I wish I had watched this great video BEFORE I removed my old fuel pump!!! Fuel pump rod fell and I can't get it pushed back up in the block. Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated 👍
Just found your channel and will be subscribing. Was looking because my son's Nova suddenly had fuel leaking and found that the bolt that you put in to hold the rod is missing. You explained everything well. What size did you say the bolt was?
I usually slide pushrod up slide a hacksaw blade down between the pushrod & fuel pump arm. Once you get the pump mounted close to the engine block, pull out the hacksaw blade & install the 2 fuel pump mounting bolts. Trust me it works. 👍
@@ChrisNCars Awesome thanks. I got new one working it seems so far..it wasnt pumping fuel to filter at first so i just squeezed the hose and that seemed to do the trick to get the pump going.
Hey man I’m replacing mine right now but cannot find info on whether or not the push rod needs to be oriented a certain way. One side of the rod is smoother / shinier than the other side. Which side is the cam side ? Thanks in advance.