How to Install a Rainwater Harvesting System - DIY 

Raincell

Hammer, masonry drill, hole saw, pliers

Pipe cement, Level, Hammer, Drill, hole saw and Woodsaw

What kind of pump?

​@@TheSharlethaGwater pump.

That ball. Does it float? What does it do?

the T fitting on the First Flush Kit has a seat on the bottom vertical that the ball seats into as the water rises, thereby diverting the water to the horizontal outlet of the T to the tank.

"munisipal" 🤦🏻‍♂️

Then use more water or see how to use those water in kitchen, washing machine.

overflows to the neighbor's section

Hi Vicky, no you don’t need to do the electrical work first. All the pumps are fitted with a plug which needs to be connected to your electrical point when you want to use the water under a pressurized supply. You can install the tank first and get started with capturing your rainwater. Andrew doesn't recommend using an entry level pump for an irrigation system as that requires a higher pressure and increased flow rate. Check out the following clips which assist you in selecting the right size pump. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lKUvxyd22No.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wa1KWOnAgV0.html

Yes, I would add a water filter before the pump inlet.

Would also like to know

When the 1st flush line fills up the ball rises to the top and seals against a rib on the inside of the pipe. This is not shown or explained in the video. So when the clean water arrives (several litres later) it hits the top of the ball and heads off to the tank. If there was no ball, the clean water would continue to churn up the dirty water with the possibility of some of the messy water being deposited in the tank. Hope that explains it.

Honestly filtering the water for drinking will be a costly process. You could from the tank install an incline spun polyethylene filter system. It will filter the water as you need it but it would be low volume.

Unscrew the cap at the bottom after it has rained to release the muck that came from the roof.

Hi, those are nail in anchors. Andrew drilled a hole first in the concrete and then just hammered the anchor into position. They work well. The screw allows you to remove it if needed. NM

The length of the pipe (with the screw cap at the bottom) is arbitrary. All that it does is to collect 'heavier than water' particles. You will still have a problem with bird droppings that float so there make sure that your filter mesh at the inlet to the tank is in good condition and clean.

Hi, Andrew used a Leaf Eater that directs leaves and debris away from the flow of water before it enters into the tank. NM

BuildersFan I think road to mars is referring to the plastic filings from the holesaw

there are a couple of ways to do it... where are you located???

@@vineshdevchander1894 I am in varanasi, uttar pradesh india.

@@shyammohansharma8919 ok.. thats a long way from me here in South Africa but it does not matter...the principle is not dependent on locality. Varanasi is beautiful. I've been there!!! Method 1. the quickest method. Join all the downpipes at ground level and run the piping to the storage tanks BUT Remember to have the lead to enter the TOP of the storage tank. I am making the assumption that the top of your storage tank is LOWER THAN the gutters. Am I correct in that assumption?? At the base of the storage tank put a T joint with a ballvalve in the closed position. After the rain... you can release the water in the pipelines by opening the ballvalve you installed at the T. Make sure to close it after you release the water from the piping . That ballvalve must be in the closed position at all times ensuring that water during the rainy period collects in the pipe, rises in the pipe leading to the top of the storage tank to enter the storage tank from above . The ballvalve is only opened to release water left in the pipe after the rain has stopped. When joining the downpipes at the bottom, use the same fittings and piping as the downpipes but you can bury the joined piping underground so that its more aesthetically pleasing and the same applies to the common lead pipe to the storage tank. try and create a slight gradient from the start of the lead pipe to the base of the storage tank so sat there is rapid flow in the lead pipe towards the storage tank. At the base of the storage tank you oukd have inserted your T joint with a ballvalve and right angled the other end vertically so as to feed the water to the top of the storage tank leading into the tank. If you bury the piping, make sure the exit piping from the T joint to release water in the piping daylights at some point so that the water can come out when the ballvalve is opened. If its not possible to have the release piping to daylight, you can have it daylights into a drum or barrel which can be buried and then you can remove the water by hand or a small submersible or fountain pump. You are welcome to send me your details if you wish further clarity as I have installed several rainwater systems in South Africa and have done same at my own home. All the best!!!!

@@vineshdevchander1894 thank you sir. I will consider your method when I start some reconstruction work. Right now I have connected the down pipe which collects largest portion of roof area to a 2000 liter tank placed in my ground floor. It got full in the very first rain lol.

@@shyammohansharma8919 All good...just remember to have a first flush installed at each down pipe OR better still...also have a common sand trap like box unit which is intermediate between the roof and the tanks.... well worth it!!!... My current system is in excess of 100KL storage and I'm able to run my home and veggie garden from season to season... independent of municipal water!!! I'm here if you need help and assistance... Stay Safe!!! All the Best!!!

Hi Barn, Andrew used a Leaf Eater that directs leaves and debris away from the flow of water before it enters into the tank. NM

You're saying the diameter of the first flush is too big? But, don't you want to get rid of a certain volume to make sure you wash off all (most of) the bird poop, pollen, and whatever chemicals may have floated over to your roof, before you start collecting?

@@solfeinberg437 Not the first flush itself. China town you can get first flush in 80mm. I just love the "neatest" setup and I find that with 80mm. To help with the other stuff as well, get gutter guards and clean gutters (with bleach) fortnightly. First flush I would say is necessary but lots of people don't use them.....PS: First flush wont get rid of the chemicals. Also if you setting up, get filters (at least 2). But this video is great, absolutely recommended!

@@garethcollocott6310 Agree. That monster pipe for 1st flush is not necessary.

Rain capture act of 2012 allows residents to catch rainwater