How to Install a Water Tank...and Save Lots of Money On Your Water Bill | GARDEN | Great Home Ideas 

Jason Hodges is the greatest host of this show!

Australians have the actual technology to build these sort of tanks is amazing. I have goose bumps

loved this video mate...well produced! Dad jokes are A-grade too!

Love the humour

Nice idea.

Wow, the dad jokes. And the dog was wearing a tye too

GREAT...

ensure that you have a structurally sound concrete base to place your tank onto!

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I’ve never seen that water divert pipe available in the U.K., it would be ideal here. Same as the 3000 flat tank in colours.

great thank you just setting up my water tank - however i have a bore for the garden so want to set it up for drinking water. Would a set up like this be ok?

Did I miss the part where they secured to tank to the shed?

I would sugges solid concrete Base, otherwise base might get damage with the weight over time.

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What about algae growth? Charcoal??

The video title should be: "How to install a water tank, waste lots of money and help flood Hawkesbury/Nepean homes" That looks like a 3000L tank. Typical installed cost in Sydney including pump is around $2,000. Town water currently costs around $2.50/kl (in Sydney) so tank holds $7.50 worth of water. Typical pump is 1200W and pumps 3700L/hr so it will take 0.81 hrs to empty the tank and will use 0.97kWh of electricity. At a typical cost of 26c per kWh it will cost 25c in electricity, meaning the tank holds $7.25 worth of free water. Average annual rainfall in a typical Sydney suburb (Bankstown) is around 880mm. Typical catchment roof space is around 80sqm (not 200sqm as some sites claim because few older houses with retro-fitted tanks like this one collect from all downpipes). Total water falling on roof collection area is 880 x 80 = 70,000L per year, but a lot of it falls during storms and overflows the tank, so realistic collection amount is 50,000L per year, or 17 tankfulls. That saves around $123 in water rates per year or $2,460 over the 20-year life-expectancy of a poly tank. Even if roof collection area was 200sqm the saving would not be significantly more as most of it would overflow the 3000L tank each time it rains. A pump only lasts around 15 years so during those 20 years there will be at least $500 in pump repair/replacement costs, sludge cleaning and other maintenance. That means for an outlay of $2,500 over 20 years you get a return of $1,960. If you had invested $2,500 in the share market 20 years ago (June 2002) instead of installing a water tank, that investment would now be worth $9,700 (according to the stock market calculator on Noel Whittaker's website), meaning owning the tank would have cost you $9,700 - $1,960 = $7,700. But at least you get a warm fuzzy feeling that you are somehow saving the planet. Except that you aren't. The three recent floods in the Hawkesbury/Nepean, that cost insurance companies (meaning the public) tens of millions of dollars, would not have occurred if Warragamba Dam had been significantly lower, as would have been the case if not for all the BASIX-mandated water tanks in Sydney. There are downsides to everything. As for the black ball in the "first flush diverter" which another user asks about, the theory of the ball is to separate the initial dirty water from the clean water. Without it the initial dirt still falls into the diverter until it fills up, but the subsequent water passing over the top continually stirs up the water in the diverter causing most of the fine dirt to eventually make its way back out and into the tank. In reality the entire diverter setup achieves virtually nothing. The one in the video is around 1.2m long x 90mm diameter. It holds just 7.6L of water. It fills up within a few seconds during a downpour, long before most of the dirt on the roof has reached the guttering, let alone flowed along it and down the downpipe. Heavy sand etc. will fall into the diverter but the fine suspended silt and organic matter flows straight over it. To provide any dirt collection benefit at all the diverter should extend right to the ground, but the downside is that it then reduces water catchment during light rain. It also increases another problem which is a constantly damp, algae-covered patch on the concrete beside and around the tank, as the diverter slowly empties drip by drip, even weeks after the last rain. A hose can be connected to the diverter and run to the nearest lawn but that is often impractical. There is an excellent article titled "To First Flush, or not to First Flush" on the US Bluebarrel website (links aren't allowed here - Google it). It points out amongst other things that most rainwater tanks are used for watering plants and that the fine organic material that the diverters are supposed to eliminate is a good source of free fertiliser.

My idiot neighbour did not properly plumb the overflow water and completely ruined the boundary fence and my retaining wall plus placed the corner of my house foundations in danger. Please everyone, follow instructions .

What does that set up cost?

Tell us more about the pump please. I need to add one, but that looked like it required 240v?

Any detailed info (link) on that black ball ? Not sure about it's functionality.

Whats the name of the company who makes those tanks?

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