FANTASTIC thank you for taking the time to teach everyone... I'm not an expert, we will make own tiny houses two of them and a weight lifting, gym, kitchen, living room, bathrooms, common area building as well where bathroom and laundry room on property will be located geodesic domes all of them, and ... thank you for inspiration here... but... I don't think we could fill up one of your tanks in our entire life times... bit of an overkill... we also plan to reuse all water in garden once we pipe it separately filter it trough sand and charcal underground concrete boxes... so only poop goes into our tank from low flow modern toilets... so we will hand dig, form bottom of tank, mix and pour concrete, then build up septick tank side walls (octagon) around or on top of bottom (octagon) and backfil and in the end pour and put a cover on it, mabee 1500 Liters... and that is it, ading leech lines later at most... and separate tank for filtered soap grey water from house to be used in garden on plants... that is how we plan to do it... efficiently and not an over build, just hand tools... hope to have sandy soil so then we don't even have to order sand or aggregate, just use what is on property, only ordering a palate of cement to last for the years that we plan to make tons of things our selves... Wish us luck! -tibor
Geez! That was a super major project for one person! If I didn't live 1200 miles from you , I would have helped you. It's done, and you can cross that off the list!
In California code 6 feet of drain Rock under drain perforated pipe completely flat , wonce lay your pipes ,pour rock over pipe a couple inches, then put taxpayer , then you put existing material over system 2 feet plus . All septic systems require perk testing befor lech fields will peak. If under ground won't pass perk test , then require mound system. Mound system is basically, require amount sand under your pipes , feets of sand , plus several feet above pipes , the Reason is the sun will absorb moisture from the system. It's all engineering system. It can be very expensive. My understanding they also have huge drilling companies that can drill like 30 feet verdical holes for special areas as lech fields. .
Instead of building up the dirt, you should have considered digging down 6 feet and layering the ground with gypsium, gravel, sand and dirt. Much better drainage. On my property I dug down 15 feet and applied the same material works like a dream.
Taking a wild guess, are you in MO, KY, or TN? Looks like some karst limestone. I admire you for taking the exam and passing. In NH its a state exam, one exam for installer and one for designer. Offered twice a year. Very shallow rock on property we are looking at. Thanks!
Do they not worry about contaminating the water table there? We have to maintain 24” separation between bottom of trench and a limiting layer. Can be reduced to 12” with an aeration unit. No rules like that?
We raises the ground up by bringing in dirt and compacting it before putting in the lateral lines and leveling them. They are not directly on the rock.
It is an Infiltrator Tank. They are the best and strongest poly tank I could find because of how they are built where the seam is mechanically latched together vs melted. The melted together ones have a history of splitting at the melted seam.
In Tennessee, the local self-appointed gods at codes claim your dirt can not be distributed ? How do you dig a lateral septic line without disturbing the soil?
I plan on building in TN -- the TDEC has told us we have to do a two-tank system and a pump system even though there is plenty of space for a drain field that is down-slope from the home. I will now find a septic installer to do a site visit and give his opinion. I have a hard time thinking a pump system with a drain field above the outlet on a sloped lot that is about a 5% slope.
