Highly appreciate the details, such as what the anchor bolt looks like and how it is placed. For a complete novice, these details are priceless. I had a question: @00:59, how is the anchor bolt placed between the two blocks? Is part of the blocks shaved/removed to make place for the bolt? Or is the bolt simply placed between the blocks and masonry applied to fasten the anchor to the blocks on each side of it? Thanks!
Great video! But my questions is if you square the foundation first? Wouldn't it be hard to get it squared using this method and then not being able to see the chalk mark?
Thank you for the most excellent video. I like doing it myself and save money. QUESTION: Should the nut and bolts be countersunk to allow a flush top of the sill plate? I think placing a modular home would be very difficult with the bolts sticking up.
Good on the moisture barrier articulating with the sill plate/ring joist/joist ends. My 1923 built house didn't have any barrier and I have had to cut out 2 short spots to replace with sealant and new framing as best can be done; it's a real pain in the ass. Why not paint the top and sides of the footers with tar?
A general knowledge of how to, but I could use advice or see a actual one being built. I believe you never know enough and learning more is the way to go. Standard conventional home.
It certainly is much easier to find the mark to later drill out when you make an 'Indentation' into the wood by using a hammer. Also, does anyone use the 'EPDM' rubber gasket, 'BG65' for 2x6 plates sill plate gasket versus the polyethylene sill sealer that you are using? Is there a big difference you find? In the background, it looks like such a beautiful property.
better to nail two wood runners down the side of the 2x6-8 tp make sure you are on the right path or a 2x propped to the wall with some weight. Often better to find holes laying board on edge and penciling the bolt profiles as the stand on it. inches to Center off wall can easily be measured.
Depends on what code is observed. Some places, every X feet others the whole wall filled with rebar. The anchor j-bolt placed into mortar between two blocks is a very weak connection. I wouldn't expect much from that if a tornado comes through. Always do your homework and not completely trust the Internet.
I’m working on shed on foundation 13’4” by 13’4” and I used 19 anchor bolts in 20 filled in with vertical rebar. I meant to use 20 bolts but I forgot to set one. Take that as you will, I’m not a professional.
Question- how far apart does the anchor bolts have to be apart. Question 2- Does the whole foundation wall have to be filled with cement or just where the anchor bolts are going. Thanks
Bolts need to be within 12" of ends, corners, or openings. On the longer spans, not more than 6'-0" apart. Some people fill all the openings with concrete for strength, some only the ones with the anchor. Much depends on local code. My personal opinion: always better to be beyond code and over engineered than cheap, with shortcuts. I have just seen far too much repair needed on Owner DIY.
Quick question- how do you set the bottom plate of your wall in place, when you have those anchor bolt ‘nubs’ sticking up out of the sill plate? Do you drill out small round notches in the bottom plate? Great videos!
Hey Chris! Yes you would drill out a whole big enough to accommodate the nubs. I had to do that on the garage on the house I’m building now. Here’s a video of me sitting a wall on a concrete slab. It’s not the scenario you were talking about exactly but maybe give you some insight. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O1j5WsViwyQ.html
In your area is it okay to cut the fibers of the mudsill? In my area I would be flagged for the code violation. Typically we are only allowed to do 1/4 to 1/2 turn past tight. Edit for a question: why do the mud sills after the L bolts If your filling cavities for the bolt wouldn't be just as easy to wet set the mudsill plate and the bolts together? I have seen some videos where guys doing work on block attach the bolts to the mud sill and place them together. -MG
I have a question: why all the cinder block piers as opposed to a concrete pier with a post and girder for the joists to run across to break up the spans and prevent trampoline floor? Are you hanging all the joist or placing them on a ledger?
Foam sill sealers are pretty good at providing a capillary break, but not great as an air sealer. For that, neoprene is a better choice, as it conforms better to variance in the top of the concrete wall. Additionally, if you're using exterior batt or rigid foam insulation (and most houses now being built must, by code, have exterior wall insulation), it makes sense to have a sill that extends 3+ inches out past the wall, in order to provide a base for supporting the insulation that sits above it. The days of sill plates flush with the concrete wall below them are over.
With the sill gasket, ive usually put the ribs facing up. I mean, it naturally rolls out like that, so why would it go the other way? Maybe i've been doing it wrong..
I did not want to pay for a concrete slab and finish a basement on a lot that is so flat. I learned that a basement on a slopped lot is the best investment
So in order to have a walkout basement without digging around the door, the lot slopes away from the house to where part of The foundation is exposed outside of the ground
Love the video, and I plan on doing it this way. My building is almost like a square. 53' X 40' Going around the outside edge with the sill plate. I heard you mention getting 16' boards. Does it make more sense for example to do 4 - 10' board for the 40' side? Or is it better to get the longer the board the better? For more uniformity through out the construction?
16 foot boards are typically better quality just because they have to find the logs to make them. Its not 100 % true all the time but it is so often carpenters tend to order the mud sills that way.
@@meshedgears2794. Thank you for your response. My properties foundation is 40' x 53' to put the sill. If I divide out both 40' divided by 16' that is 2 - 16' and 1 8', and if I do 53' that is 3 -16' and 1 - 5 ' aproximately. So do I put the 8' and 5' stretch in the middle, on the ends? Just trying to figure out the best approach. I am probably over thinking this.
@@michaelorozco1617 Hi Michael without seeing the plans it's not really possible to say, but you should have plans from an engineer or architect telling you what spacing you need for the bolts. The plans should also tell you what is the minimum embedded length of the bolt and the max allowable space from the end of the mudsill. There should also be a call outs for the lumber size 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, 3x6 or 3x8. The overall length of the foundation does not dictate everything, for instance do you have a man door planned? The man door changes the layout bolt spacing etc. and don't forget wherever you have two sill plates meeting there will be two bolts much closer together. What about interior beams is this a raised floor or slab combination of both maybe a basement? Again that's where the plans come in but to answer just the question regarding the plates. The plates don't care where they are.... so 16+8+16 is the same as 16+16+8 . -MG
@@meshedgears2794. Thank you for the reply. You have answered my question. the foundation is on a slope. So some of it is on a foundation while the other part of it is on cinderblock wall. There is a portion of the wall that is on the slope there is a big opening for and RV Garage, but portion has a large LVL over the top of it. I am assuming we are using 2X8X16 since we are on top of part of the cinderblock wall. parts of the cinderwall are concrete filled. I totally understand what you were talking about with the doors. Thank you very much. Very helpful!
Hi! I like your explanation, but I have another question, what do you do when you connect the walls to the floor, so the walls are grounded as well? keep up the good work
I used 1/2" wedge bolts on a 2x4 sill plate. Big mistake, as I blew out my foundation. Now I have to patch the exterior edge and use 3/8" bolts instead. Anyone have this happen? If so, how did you correct it?
That depends are you referring to slab on grade or pier & beam? Slab on grade.. it can go up pretty high ( 6”-1’ of slab is common); especially if the house is sitting on a slope as if…one side of the house will have around 2’ of slab and the other side can have up to 8’ of slab to level out the surface of slab/ foundation. Pier and beam is different. If your piers/ columns are around 4’ with 6’ spacing or above 4’ in height, it might require a shear wall.
So you can just set the anchor bolt in the small space without having to fill the whole cavity? I assume you didn't fill in the voids anywhere except where you put the bolts?
I've never seen a block footer or stemwall without a bond beam as the top layer. Anchor bolts should be incorporated into that bond beam which should have rebar (verticle and horizontal)
great video, ill be building my house in mexico just doing some refreshing as im going to have a block foundation with wood framing, nice tip on indentation to mark your drill point
Mexico build! How cool man. Good luck on your project. Yea the indentation works well for me. Thanks for watching the video and commenting too! Be sure to subscribe.
Tim Lambert Maybe not forever but probably a good 15yrs! After finishing framing dads house I will be back on this house full time. Lots of videos to come!!
It depends on what is the Year & Code of Record. If this property with subject to the IRC code (most locales use this as a minimum standard, other locales add on to it for localized conditions such as seismic and hurricane....). The IRC code calls from minimum of 7" of anchor embedment in a CMU with a ½" dia (as I recall I believe the exact words are 0.707 dia. That would be equivalent to the root diameter of the thread and that's why ½-13 is acceptable. 10" x ½-13 is the minimum of what should be used, they're about 50 cents more apiece. These 8-inch anchors are for deck building. He has used 8" you do the math there is no way when you drop the 1½" thick steel plate that this house would pass inspection. Add an amount of stick up and half inch for the nut and the washer and he may have 2 in the mortar. This house should be condemned as a code violation. Feel sorry for the next person who buys it.
PBS #007 They cannot be more than 4’ apart and no farther than 1’ away from the end of the sill plate per code. Be sure to subscribe and hit the bell for notifications!
Not meaning to nitpick your work or anything of the sort. But why aren't your blocks grouted? How is that a foundation that you can build on? Honest questions here. I've never seen anyone put a sill plate on a hollow wall
The builder seems to be trying to "teach" much seems he still has much to learn. Quite a few things done not to IRC/IBC and that could come back to bite most people when the inspector shows up or if he house is to be sold and the home inspector finds the mistakes.
Yes I am a carpenter I have been building house since I was 13 yrs old. I thinks its easier, but if it's easier for you then that's your way. I just prefer measuring.
it makes a n indention? no flashing? how about making it straight and square is your mason perfect? haha Dont follow this guy just because he has a video camera
I always use a short piece of 2X4 to line-up the sill plate with the outside of the concrete before hammering an indentation into the sill plate. Also, he kind of glossed over it , BUT it is code to always use pressure treated 2 by's for your sill plate
One thing I don't understand. The J-bolts obviously does a great job of holding down the mud sill during high wind, BUT the rim joist is only toe nailed to the mud sill. It seems like the toe nail job is far , far less able to hold the house in place during high wind. Couldn't a hurricane just rip out the rim joist from the mud sill ?
