@@MrDIYCraigPhillips Thanks mate! The company I'm with seems really good so I'm hoping to learn lots. Got lots of new hand tools to play with and my trainer is a super handy guy so I'm pumped ready to go! :)
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips Hi mate just thought I'd come back and update, I've done 3 days so far, box sash windows which was fun but insanely heavy, I've started working out to get stronger to help me with work lol. I've also helped out with a conservatory roof and replaced standard-looking window frames and the glass, it's been a learning curve that's for sure! :)
@@KnightoftheLord1 Thats all sounds great and your going to learn a lot, thanks for the update, make sure you check out our Mr and Mrs DIY RU-vid channel for building tips
@jonathanbrown2190 when toeing and heeling the opening sash is packed at diagnal corners, not on all 4 sides like he did. So its packed at the top corner of the opening side and the bottom corner of the hinge side, this it to stop the sash dropping over time with the weight of the glass. It should also never be done with the sash open it should always be closed When you attach the cill to the bottom of the frame, a silicone bead should be applied all the way along the cill upstand, not just on the edges this is to stop wind blowing through aswell as driving rain. This is coming from a window/door fitter with 17 years' experience.
Hey Craig. Perfect timing that I've come across this video as I'm doing a fitting in a day or two. As always after viewing your video it'll make it much easier. Top videos,top DIY bloke. Thanks
Craig, I've been watching uPVC fitting videos since 2018 as have done this myself now and again but always need a refresher, your video is by far the best one.
Good video. I have a house that's going to be demolished in approx 10 yrs time but it only has single glazing at the moment. I'm hunting down free discarded upvc windows to fit myself and this has been very helpful. Thanks!
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips just subscribed to this one, will check im on the mr and mrs one too. your videos really help me out with my diy, u explain things so well thanks again
Finally someone did a good job explaining all the steps, thanks man, youve saved me a few hundred pounds not hiring a guy that would rip me off to do that in 30 minutes
Good video but the cill and frame should also have a bond between the frame and upstanding lip of the cill to prevent water Ingres from any driving rain 👌🏻
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips hiya Craig cheers for the reply, it’s actually a fensa regulation now it’s become real over the top with how they pass or fail things! All the best cheers
Hi Craig very good video however, just a few things you don't toe and heal a sash with it open!! plus it wasn't packed currently When fixing the frame to the substrate you need to use packers adjacent to the fixings to stop twisting of the frame. You only need to fix up/down on windows or doors over 1201 foam is sufficient. Also the fixings guild is 150mm to 250mm on upvc and 600mm Centres. Please don't think I'm having a go it's just videos like these need to be better. Eurocell should have given you all the current information.
It was good I learned a few things. I wouldn't have sealed the sill and good to know 500mm for fixings. He got the heal and toe aspect completely wrong though! Search for that before installing. The glazing packer placement is very important!
No probs mate! No idea I'm guessing the look? You should be able to buy upvc at builders merchants, trade shops or even local window and door places! Cheers
Ideally its best to remove the pebbledash were the new window meets the brickwork, then fix the frame to the brickwork, any gaps can be filled with 3C's foam and HM sealant
Very helpful. But you made drilling the fittings look a piece of cake. Did you pilot hole the brick work too before putting the window in place? I ended up using those nylon window anchors which I didn't really rate
@@MrDIYCraigPhillipscheers Craig, my window doesn't seem to have the bridging packers you use for the glazing. Do all windows require these and are they generally the same size or bespoke packers the manufacturer should supply?
I have 2 windows to fit and was wondering how best to secure them to the brickwork. I see there are hammer type fixings which I assume you drill a hole for, hammer in and then finish off with a screwdriver. You covered every part of the install except this bit
hey just checking these videos how workers doing mine :) what i wanted to say i threw out old wooden 40years rim it was fixed with two big nail it lasted 40 years :D
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips ok thanks, it doesn’t interfere with putting the screws in? Having a go at this tomorrow on my garage window. Really appreciate the video 👍🏼
Hi - I like your videos but concerned you don't state that, in the UK, you will need to get retrospective building regs approval and FENSA certificates for each window you fit yourself. This will involve demonstrating it has been fitted correctly. Not problematic, if they are building regs compliant.
Great video. All sites when measuring for new windows say deduct 10mm from the height and width. Do you not also have to allow for the thickness of the sill when measuring the height?
They do often say that, its normally because the bricklayers haven't got the brickwork perfectly level and window opening square! Yes allow for a cill if a cill is required.
Good video Craig. Just a question. How do you do the horn on the cills when fitting the plastic end caps? They come packaged so the whole cap fits on the end of the cill. If you make a horn it means you have to cut the cap so one piece fits on the horn, and the other piece fits inside. I notice you didn't cover that bit in your video. Any advice?
It the window is fitted correctly and closers ok then it maybe there gaps around the outside of the frame that need sealing, we have other videos on our Mr and Mrs DIY RU-vid channel of me sealing around doors and frame with silicones
I was fitting new glass in my old persimmon windows and was shocked to see that there are no frame fixings. Seems like the windows are held in with fresh air or just the render on the outside and plasterboard on the inside 😳
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips we’re in the process of selling up so it’s someone else’s problem. 😂 nah, they’ve been in for 23 years and have passed inspection on two different sales so should be fine 😁🤞
If its a timber frame home I think it's internally fixed to the stud work with metal fixings and screws, behind the plasterboard. But your house could be different
im a young 18 year old, with 2 years working experience with my uncle who is a window fitter. I would now like to do a course to move to an independent fitter. do you have any course recommendations in and around London sir?
Hi I’m buying a house … but will have to have work done to it… it’s EPC rating is E. So I’m thinking I might need to get need windows to help with insulation. It has around 6 main windows? Any idea about cost? Estimates? I always thought replacing windows would be super expensive ?
There are so many different styles and designs of windows, as well as hundreds of companies that make then, I'd just google local companies to you and get them to come and and give you a free quotation which would have all the measurement and sizers on
Most new frames are made to 28mm units now, you can get better sound proofing by getting acoustic glass, this is more expensive but in my opinion not worth it as with new regulations reguarding trickle vents you will always get noise pollution
Window glass typically will have a sticker on it telling you if your looking at the internal or external side of the glass. Best to leave the sticker on until you fit the glass
9:10 Beads coming out with a simple pull? My Eurocell windows, I would need a winch attached to an 8-tonne crane to remove them. Put them back in with glass in place requires a 20-tonne sledge hammer. And when you then discover you have done the glass all wrong and need to take it out again, well the beads are immovable. Impossible to take out without damaging the frame.
Hi Craig - we removed and replaced our window ledge on the inside of our UPVC windows and now the trim that was put on around windows (strips about 1.5 cm wide) has come away, sticks up and looks unsightly. The trims don't seem to be part of the actual window so I was wondering if I could just remove them and seal around the edges instead? I watched your video to see if you had similar trims on the inside but you don't.
Thats right you don't need the trips on the inside, if the gap is small enough to fill then I'd fill it, do use a flexible sealant tho, and make sure its air tight the best you can.
When screwing into the bricks, are you just putting the screw straight into the brick? Or do you pilot the brick? Or do you add rawl plugs? My bricks are a bit spalled because it's a victorian seaside house so I'm worried about blowing out the brick as I fasten into it.
Hi, There is any workers veccancie? Am from india. Now i am in uk.! For the last 6 years, I have been working on aluminum doors and windows, in india. If there is any job veccancie please mention.
Hiya Craig. Brilliant video. May I ask what size and type screws you used to 1. Attach the cill to the frame; and 2. To attach the frame to the wall? Also, do you have a brand/type of expanding foam that you recommend? Thanks
Remember to silicone the middle of the frame before puttin sil on I have done so many service calls were frames werent masticd before bein skrewed on you wont enjoy the water seeping through. I would use 50mm multi purpose fixings for sill. For the frame fixing you need concrete multi purpose fixings an a 6.5mmx210 SDS head drill bit wont do it
Sandra & I loved your appearances in Changing Rooms all those years ago but here's a question for you Craig. We have had a double glazed casement put in on the first floor (living accommodation). The supplier/fitter company made an error of 240mm with the height of the cross rail (lower part of the opening window). When the window is fully open (top hung) the height of the "hole" for want of a better word, is 870mm above floor level or 665mm above the lower sill (which a child could easily stand on). Is there a building regs "minimum height" above the hard surface (either floor or low sill) to the lip of the opening window to avoid someone falling out?
Normally windows should be around 800mm from the floor if lower the glazing is required to be toughened act, however if there is a higher cill on the inside that would make it easy for a child to climb on then a window rail or locking restrictor would normally be required by building Controle, if your in doubt I'd recommend speaking to your local authorities planning/building Controle to clarify what they feel if required for your property.
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips Thanks Craig. We raised the concern with the window company and they have replaced the window (again) the lip of the window is now greater than 1100mm from floor level so all's good.
HI Eddy, the last time i paid a local council to do a window inspection was around 4 years ago and it was Telford & Wreken council and it was around £180
Hi Craig I had windows fitted by Congleton glass my windows are not level the cil is out put spirit level on the inside of the window it’s way out Congleton glass told me that’s right my windows will still be energy efficient is this correct.
If your not satisfied I'd get another window company to write a report on therm or ask your local building Controle to inspect them for there view on them
Big error in putting in the glazing with the casement open, and neither have you installed packers on the hinge side bottom corner and the opening side top corner, for otherwise the upvc frame will drop on the opening side and you will not be able to open the casement.
Hi Craig. There is water damage caused by a leak in the bottom left of our newly installed windows and I think the reason might be that silicone wasn't applied between the sill and the bottom of the frame as you show at around the 4:45 mark in the video. Is there an inside fix or way to check this? Remove and reinstalling the windows would be a bit of a pain! Thanks.
@@MrDIYCraigPhillips Thanks for following up. We got new window guys out and they thought it was a case of no silicone in certain parts around the window. So they put some on and we'll see. I'm suspicious that the issue is still the one you pointed out and it needs treatment from the "inside". So I cut out the area that was showing water damage on the wall and I was thinking that I'd fill that with some weather proof expanding foam to see if we can plug any tiny holes where water might be coming in. Is that a decent idea, do you think? I can definitely feel air coming in through the bit of plasterboard I've cut out. Hope that makes sense!
So much you missed here its Unbeliveable Yes, 150 mm gaps from top and bottom, but you didn't say why that is as there is a good reason. You also missed you shouldn't put your fixings into full bricks where possible as half bricks can blow easier. You actually mentioned toe and heeling but didn't do it with Packers. It's done from corner to corner, depending on what way window opens. That window after several openings would drop, and the window would catch. Also, when you put the glass in, you didn't advise to put the energy efficent side facing inwards. Also, there is no memtion of a critical glazing area. So please just dont buy and install your own windows until you actually know what you're doing. Agreed, eurocell are cheap, but their porfile is garbage. You have to advise on more critical items if you're going to give a how 2 video.
Feel free to crate your own videos showing us how it should be done for peopler to learn from for free! Instead of picking holes in other work you dosser
