How to Install a Replacement Window in an Old House 

Thanks so much Colin. It gives me a massive buzz to know that my videos are helping people out in some way or other! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment!

Don't forget to screw them in place with frame fixings (I tend to do this after the foam has set) and you'll need building regs approval, which you can get retrospectively but worth lining that up before the event really, to ensure the windows are compliant.

+Kas Qad Kas, that is the best comment I've received to date! - it can be quite a lonely, time consuming existence making and editing these videos - so comments like yours are so important. Massive thanks, and keep up the good work!

Charlie DIYte, not at all, it's you we should all be thanking for taking the time out to actually put this together, we should all try to share our experiences and advice with one another to help your fellow man/woman! Through your videos, your inadvertently creating a collaborative network with your tutorials and advice, if only everyone else in the world shared the same values! Keep it up Charlie!

I´m with Kas! But I would´ve used a mask on some of those dustier chores. Best regards Charlie

You're welcome. Make sure you mechanically fix too. I use frame fixings and drill them in after the foam has set.

That's very kind of you, particularly as a lot of people take it rather for granted that it's free. 👊

You're welcome. Hope the install went well.

I agree Ben, as discussed here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Obc1thYnLEs.html although I have a non stick gun now which is also much better as you don't need to revive and clean it until the foam has been used up in the can whereas my old gun blocked up regularly

Thanks Barry. The one thing I neglected to mention was the mechanical fixings. I typically use the expanding foam to get the window in the right position and when it's set, you can then drill in frame fixings. I find if you try and do this beforehand the window can easily move out of line.

Absolutely right and something I should have shown in this vid. I've got a window going in, in my next vid on Zinsser All Coat and I'll be showing that being mechanically fixed in place.

You're welcome Chris. A couple of things. You should mechanically fix them too. I think this might be a regs requirement. I get them in position, wedge them then apply the expanding foam. Once that's set you can drill through the frames and insert frame fixings. Some people do this through the hinge rebates so the holes are hidden but if yours are hand painted like mine you can fill after for an invisible job. I have a building regs consultant who is going to grant me retrospective consent when I get round to it. It's just something people might pick up on when you come to sell so worth considering.

Thanks mate. There are on that side. Look left though and there's a busy road and a petrol station 🤣

Fair point. I do these days 👊

Thanks. Only thing is if you've got one to install, put a couple of frame fixings in each side. I think I missed that point in the vid. The trick is to get the window straight with the foam and then drill in the fixings when the foam has set hard. 👊

@@CharlieDIYte thank you Charlie, will do that today 👍

That's great to great Dominic. Excellent work. 👍

Thanks - love your comment!

Cheers mate. Easier than it looks!

Thanks buddy. It's not the first I've done. They get easier. If you do this, put some frame fixings in too, to mechanically fix it in place.

Glad you found it useful. I don't think I showed using frame fixings - which is worth doing - and I think might be a building regs requirement too. I generally drill these after the foam has set.

Thanks mate. Just remember to always mechanically fix too, with frame fixings. For some reason I omitted to mention that.

You're welcome. Thanks 👍

Thanks!

Thanks Iain! You certainly do - potentially during and after installation, and you have to get a certificate to prove that you have complied. There's lots of info on the web eg www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/replacementregs.htm

Thanks mate. Yes I did add frame fixings as this is I think a building regs requirement. Here's a recent install where I show this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-02Fd1pyOia0.htmlsi=c0MLSRLbmRHEZAaN

Mark Hannah Hi Mark. You should really use a combination of the both - frame fixings and foam. My suggestion would be to get the window in position and horizontal etc, wedge it in place, fix with foam and then when the foam has set, drill in the mechanical fixings. If you do this before the foam and like me, the window isn't completely flush in the recess, it might move around a bit when you drill it for the mechanical fixings. And don't forget to get the necessary LABC certification - see my reply to Iain's comment below, on this.

+Zed Man Cheers mate. It's not bad, though not quite as remote and idyllic as it looks on camera! Also very dilapidated, but that's what I've got to thank for all the videos ☺️

Yes Craig, I omitted that step from this video which was a big error - particularly as it's a building regs requirement. What I like to do is anchor the frame in position using the expanding foam, because that way you can get it in exactly the right position, all trued up. When the foam has set, I drill through the frame into the brickwork and insert frame fixings into the frame, slightly recessed into the surface of the wooden frame - so when I knock the plastic frame fixing plug into place it's half in the wall and half in the window frame if that makes sense. I can then screw the frame tightly in place, and fill the hole when that's done. Some people hide the holes behind the window hinges. I find if you try and drill first, with the best will in the world the frame can move when you're drilling and or inserting the screws. Same principle with the door frame, I would have thought, and you want the expanding foam just to insulate the gap nicely to eliminate any cold bridging.

@@CharlieDIYte Agh, that's the Charlie detail I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to clarify this. I have never used frame fixings, there is nothing on RU-vid to demonstrate these. I had no idea that some of these scew fixings screw directly into the wall with no plug?! This ruined my mind a little bit as I have always assumed a fixing into brick or block had to have a Raw plug. I'm about to widen the side door of my house to get a motorbike through, so I will be trying these frame fixings. I was also surprised by the window fixing which come with there own plug, but weirdly do not expand when the screw is driven through it. I couldn't understand this then I thought, I guess the fixing won't have any pulling pressure on them. I know you have done some great videos on fixing into plasterboard. I hope I see one of your projects using these fixings in the future. Be too late for me but interesting for your channel. Also, have you see those inflatable wedges? Genius I think. They are used to hang doors and windows. They are used instead of shims. Bit like your foam idea to hold them in place. You do of course still have to use packers. Anyway, thanks again Charlie, keep those videos coming. I appreciate your hard work and attention to detail.

Thanks Rob. It very much depends on the configuration of the walls, and whether you're installing from the inside or outside but my original windows weren't flashed. The key is a watertight seal I would have thought but check the regs requirements in your area. 👍

It's the way these storm profile windows work. If it opens inwards it's much more likely to leak

Yes you want frame fixings. I tend to put these in after the foam has secured the window in place. You're right, I omitted to mention them here 🙄

+xander witt Hmmm. I'll check the spray can to see what it says - hadn't even thought about that! Your comment about the mask is a good one though - I should definitely have been wearing one with all that brick dust flying around!

Charlie DIYte now im doing my own house i started to watch all products i use, skipping a lot. Ofcourse have a look if its true , but i cant find anything on the internet that is saying it isnt. I have to say that here in China its even worse as they use a lot of asbestos in even cement( i took out a lot of products). Im now left with 2 builders that are not cheap and products that are very expencive,but i hope a much more cleaner way of building.

Worth investing in a good gas mask for these nasties, standard dust masks even P3 won't stop fumes entering your lungs. Plenty to choose from on Screwfix.

It depends on whether you've got internal wall insulation or not. It ideally needs a layer of PIR to insulate before you apply the plasterboard and then sill but then if your reveals aren't insulated you probably wouldn't bother with this. If you've got cavities (which I don't) you'd want a cavity closer. Here's what I did on our kitchen ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ou1CjwflZtM.htmlsi=P8cfZJL4q1QN4SeT There's a section showing how I finished the reveals.

@@CharlieDIYte thank you Charlie, my sandstone walls are over 600mm thick and are rough lime brush coated l, so nothing is flat. It's a real head scratched getting these windows done

Sorry about that 🤣

Inside? Ideally insulation layer, a vapour barrier, then plasterboard and usually plaster up to window frame. You can put stop beads, but usually more hassle than worth.

These days, diamond disks. So much more durable.

To be honest, I didn't at the time but should have for building regs - and fitted them later. What I've done on subsequent window installs is to get the window level and fixed in position with the expanding foam and then once it's set, I drill through the frame fixings. Otherwise I find it hard to get the window mm perfect as with the best will in the world it can move when you drill it.

@@CharlieDIYte thanks! I thought it requires screws for regs. Did you self-certify or asked local council to issue FENSA certificate?

There's a clip of me doing it here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-02Fd1pyOia0.htmlsi=QdDmMzu7vNK9ceUr You basically drill the frame with a bit that has the same diameter or slightly larger than the frame fixing and countersunk the surface. Then insert the concrete bit (I use SDS) drill to the correct depth. Give it a really good wiggle as often the frame fixing gets caught. Then insert the frame fixing. Lightly tap it in as far as it will go with a hammer without damaging it, then insert the screw and hammer it home until fully inserted. And then screw it tight. Then fill the hole with 2 part wood filler. Some people say drill where the hinges are so the hole is hidden but I prefer to fix it further back in the frame.

@@CharlieDIYte legend! I have just bought a stone/brick cottage built in the mid 1800s and the rotten windows need replacing. This video has been a god send. Many thanks!

I did actually after the event, a big omission in this vid, and I think you need it mechanically fixed for FENSA compliance.

Charlie DIYte thanks for your reply. I like your vids. They are very helpful. Is this your full time job? Do you live close to Kidderminster?

No, it's been doing a fine job for over 100 years ago why change it now?

Is it completely rotten? If not there's some pretty good 2 part epoxy I could recommend.

Charlie DIYte yeah completely gone. It will need replacing.

zibzabboy It took a day from start to finish including the render bead on the outside.

It's a fair point Peter, particularly the burnt sand mastic which I haven't used before. I just find the expanding foam fixes it in place on one hand enabling me then to add frame fixings knowing it's not going to move, whilst also offering good insulation.

Yes, for belt and braces it should be. I normally do mechanically fix with frame fixings but this window was rendered in from the outside and held by wood lining board - which itself was thermally insulated with expanding foam on the inside - which you haven't seen as I fixed that in later. I'll be doing some more soon and will emphasise the point!

Hi Charlie. No, in my experience flashings are more associated with (or necessary for) roof windows. The render bead provides a water tight seal around the sides of the window. As an added precaution my new windows have their own sloped sill (the original windows didn't) that sits on the exterior sill and helps to further deflect rain water away from the windows onto the exterior sill. You can't see it in the video, but the sloped window sill has a drip bead underneath - which is an additional precaution to prevent any rain water drips getting sucked under the sill. I had to cover the drip bead with render in this case as the space between the underside of the window sill and exterior sill was too tight, but on the other windows I've installed I had a wider gap so I was able to finish my render bead behind the drip bead.