How To Install An Exterior Light And 3 Common Mistakes To Avoid 

Hire A Local Professional -thumbtack.57ib.net/c/1452141/269257/4348?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thumbtack.com%2Finstant-results%2F%3Fzip_code%3D60172%26is_zip_code_changed%3Dtrue%26keyword_pk%3D102906937284094959%26search_bar_query_pk%3D483916374826835976%26encoded_answers%3DeyJzZl9wayI6IjQ3ODU3MzEwNzM2NDA1MzAwNSIsImFucyI6eyI0IjoiNjAxNzIifX0%253D%26project_pk%3D483916393223897099 Project Cost Estimator - everydayhomerepairs.com/exterior-light-installation-cost/ All My Favorite Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/everydayhomerepairs

I just did a lot of updates to a 1970s house a family member just moved in to, and the Wago lever nuts were so incredibly helpful and allowed me to fix numerous wiring issues that you simply couldn't do with conventional wire nuts. And using the Wago for ceiling lights and ceiling fans makes me wonder why anyone uses anything else. They are simply better in every way. Thank you so much for introducing me to the Wago and showing how to correctly use them.

I have a couple more tips: 1) If your light fixture is missing a gasket, you can take clear 1/4-in tubing and cut a slit in it lengthwise, then run it around the perimeter of the fixture. This works for a lot of traditional light fixtures made of pressed metal. 2) Consider using waterproof wire nuts for outdoor uses like this for extra protection. These usually have a silicone sealant inside the nut that prevents corrosion.

Hi, Scott. Great idea for a video. I am reluctant to point out problems, but I know you're open to suggestions. 1. Running a wire into a metal box unprotected is a big no-no and code violation. You need a Romex connector, either metal or plastic that can act as a strain relief. The wires can rub and short out on the box. 2. Leaving open knock-outs in a box is also a no-no and a code violation, since the box cannot effectively contain sparks or even fire. Better to use a new box. 3. More an installation detail: I would have removed the square vinyl mounting block to cut it out. This would have allowed you to inspect the wire where it penetrates the wall and made cutting the block easier. 4. You noted that you want a waterproof seal on the fixture, but it is left with a gap to the mounting block. I think this is because the mounting screw bottomed out on the siding before pulling the fixture tight to the wall. I would use a 1.5" deep box and cut the vinyl side behind the box, so the box would be tight to a solid surface. This would also allow you to enlarge the hole where the wire comes through the wall to accommodate the Romex connector. With a deeper box, the mounting screw would NOT bottom out. If you were concerned about making this fixture weather-tight, you could caulk around the top half of the fixture, leaving the bottom open for drainage. Because the fixture is so close to the overhang, I'm not sure caulking is necessary. 5. EDITED: The Romex sheathing needs to extend inside the box at least 1/4". Otherwise, the entire wire needs to be replaced, if too short. In your video, we can't see the end of the Romex sheathing. I appreciate your videos and have learned many good ideas from you.

Love this video. First of all, I believe this is a video to help DIYers, not to teach electricians how to do their jobs. From my experience, the majority of these DIY installation I've come across are, in some way, not strictly to code, or to electrician standards. But somehow they survived and have worked years and years, and without burning any house down to my knowledge. For me the most crucial issue is how well this installation is weather proof in preventing rain from coming into the house. Anytime a hole is cut in the exterior, you must make sure to do no harm to the house.

I watch tons of (software) programming how-to videos, and I have to say your DIY videos are "up there" with the best of them. :-) You do not just show-and-tell, you anticipate other perspectives, and you take steps to "reduce the scope" (confidence boosting for viewers with no or little foundation in your material). I think yours is the only channel I am subscribing to for the DIY topic. That said, please heed the sparky comments about their code concerns on this one (stapling the wire near fixture box, no bare wires leading into box, etc). This might be an opportunity to revisit one of the installs and show how to do those improvements, even if they were not required code in your area.

Replaced my outdoor fixture with an LED motion sensing fixture a couple years ago... Found exactly what you did, no junction box! A house built in 2012 should not have had this issue! So, I did the same thing as you did - installed a pancake box, and brought it up to code while installing the new fixture. Glad you confirmed what I suspected when I pulled the old fixture... I feel better now, knowing it's done correctly.

Thank you, this video has been so helpful! We recently replaced our siding and decided to change out the old outdoor light fixture. There was no junction box, so I wasn't sure how to approach this. This was perfect and showed me clearly what I needed to do. And thanks for the tip on the Wago Lever nuts!

Excellent video, thanks for doing this. Outdoor lighting or outlets is something I've struggled with in the past. To me it seems there are products that just don't fit or work or are not compatibility with other parts. I wasn't sure what to use once, I couldn't get the info on what to do. So I used one of those pancake boxes it worked well. I just built a home and I used adjustable outlet boxes with weather tight covers so I can move it out so I can get a good caulk bead around them. That worked well but remodeling always has it's challenges.

40 years ago I put a sensor light on my mom's porch. It's still works. if I had the replace it. I'd be lucky to get 5 years. It got creative and took the sensor and electronics and wired it into the existing fixture on the ceiling of the porch. All amounted was the sensor. Made for a nice sleek installation.

Wow I have been following your channel for a while now, but this is the first time clicking on your website. It’s amazing to say the least !!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Another great video. Sometimes it's the simple things that matter. I have to change a light just like you demonstrated. I've done it many times but it always bothers me to wire it up, and then let the light hang until I can get situated to mount it. I always check the wires after the light has hung. And I love WAGOs. While changing my light, on a ladder, and juggling tools, I can let the WAGOs do the work. So, it's a simple idea, but it's profound. Thank you for your videos. As an avid DYIer, I thought I knew a lot. Your videos have shown me there's a lot yet to learn.

Thanks for the tip about the pancake box! I have been wanting to put in some exterior lights but didn't want to put large holes in the exterior wall. This seems to mitigate that. 👍

Great timing! Was about to install a new fixture on my vinyl siding and need that mounting block!

Get yourself a 4" piece of small-ish chain with an S-hook on either end. You'll almost always be able to find somewhere on both the light fixture and the J-box to attach to, allowing the light to hang freely and safely while you make your electrical connections and handle your tools. I find it especially helpful when I'm more than a step or two up a ladder, or installing large, cumbersome or awkward fixtures. :)

GREAT JOB SCOTT👍…for obsessive people who want to match their siding or fixture…spray paint them and let them dry first 💚💚💚

Thanks for this info and instructions! Much appreciated! Best wishes!!!

Excellent DIY video! Thank you so much for educating us here on RU-vid. Your electric ⚡️ DIY knowledge has helped me a lot! Keep up the amazing videos!

Thank you SCOTT for another great video. My home has double 5 inch vinyl siding. I looked on Amazon for mounting blocks did not find exactly what I needed for remounting coach lights on either side of my garage. Any ideas on where to get the proper vinyl mounting blocks?

Good video. Thank you for sharing. Question: Is it code compliant to use a pancake box outdoors in this kind of situation? I know the box itself is not weatherproof. I’m just wondering if there is an exception in the NEC that allows pancake boxes to be used outdoors this way. If not, I wish someone would manufacture a UL listed weatherproof pancake box for this kind of application.

I love this video, thanks for making it. What about situations where your light fixture is larger than the vinyl mounting block? In my case, I have a large rectangular exterior light sitting on top of a smaller square vinyl mounting block. The bottom of the light hangs off.

Thanks for the video. I am rebuilding my childhood home and had an electrician doing all of the electrical. He’s on a vacation (founded by the state 🤦‍♂️) so I am left with a bunch of little things to do. One is outside lighting. This shows me the mounting way I need to use. The last video of yours I watched showed me the connector to use. I picked some up today but they are not exactly the same as yours. I searched your links and didn’t see the ones you recommended 🤷‍♂️

Would like to see a video w/ your experience with that particular smart outdoor camera. I’m considering getting a few myself

This was so helpful thanks so much, great video

Another excellent video. Thank you very much. I took some good notes that will help me with my project.

Great video, you did a better job than I would have. The hardest part for me is getting the old fixture down, all the fasteners are usually corroded. I grease up the hardware when reconnecting, maybe some electrician's grease on the wires as well. Next time it comes right apart even if the gasket leaks.

thanks for the video. Do you have any video showing how to run cables under the vinyl/siding?

Very informative video. What about the gasket in the new fixture? There is some space so won’t moisture and debris get in? Thks

WOW! Cool. I plan to replace 2 (eave) floodlight fixtures with eufy units like that. Already bought the wagos from your link. They will make working overhead much easier.

I love the wago's. way easier to work with. and as long as you do the pull test at the end to check for a solid connection you're good. plus they all have a handy strip gauge on the side. I also take photos of when i do the wiring before and after so i can compare and check later to make sure i didn't miss anything

Another fantastic video. Thank you for sharing

That Eufi light assembly will make a perfect nest location for robins. They prefer a covered area.

Clear, concise, and well done, thank you.

very nice video, well done. i am learning! appreciate the good explanations, easy to understand. thank you!

Thanks for the awesome electrical vid!

I have brick and used the metal exterior boxes to (re)mount all my outside lights... but I also cut and installed a short piece of conduit that screws into that hole in the back to provide a "path" through the brick (with a plastic relief at the end to keep the wires from chafing). I don't like the possibility that the romex might rub against the brick. I also run a bead of silicon around the box and fixture, leaving a 1/4" gap at the bottom to seal the rain out and provide a small drain hole just in case water does get behind it.

Love your amazon home repair store everything's in one place.

Thank you for the video. Question: the wire fill issue associated with pancake boxes aside, are pancake boxes rated for outdoor use?

Thank you for teaching me so much--I recommend your channel to every home owner.

I love the Wago lever nuts ! I always learn something new from your videos !😎

I just installed some exterior lights and used Wagos. It was an amazing experience.

I found an example of an even worse exterior garage light installation on the home we bought in 2019. ;-) The previous homeowner had run a three-wire (grounded) extension cord from an outlet inside the garage, across the inside wall, through the interior and exterior walls of the (uninsulated) front of the garage, and into the back of an exterior-mounted security light above the garage door. There was no caulking around the holes and only about 3 inches of the extension cord's sheath had been pulled back to connect to the fixture's wiring inside the housing. The fixture was mounted directly into the stucco with drywall screws that HAD been caulked. (The cheap plastic-housing fixture had ceased to work before we bought the house.) Needless to say, the holes were closed up and the old fixture removed. We ran a new 14/2G Romex line to that point above the garage door into the back of a caulked pancake box as part of replacing 90% of the original (1956) wiring. (The extension cord was pulled out, repaired, and is now back in service as an extension cord.)

The video was very informative and appreciated. It would be helpful to me if you could extend the light installation to show connecting the wiring to an existing circuit breaker or other location and how to route it to the installation area.

What camera do you recommend for soffit mount? Can you do a video on soffit mount installation.

would you use a different box if say you were adding a light outside (also on vinyl) ?

Its a good practice too check the neutral and ground circuits for power also....

Thank you! Do you have a link to the pancake box? I'm not finding 5/8" ones, but might not be looking in the right place. I found 1/2" but am not sure if that is deep enough. I need to replace a broken exterior light that wasn't ever installed properly (junction box was wrong type and put in backwards). Additionally, the exterior door does not have a proper header and I will need to install one-- which will make it so I can't have a junction box inside. The pancake box on the outside inside a mounting block looks like the perfect solution.

Great demonstrations. For me working on light fixtures is awkward because one hand holds the fixture leaving only one hand to do the wiring. So, I start by wrapping the fixture's ground wire around the bracket to take the weight of the fixture, and then can use both hands to do the rest of the work.

At 4:40ish you mention an outdoor work box. They work great with 4 inch fixtures but so many fixtures today are 5” or bigger like the one you’re installing here. Can you buy an adapter plate or just modify a mounting block like you did to fit a pancake box?

Great video. Thanks

You mentioned of an upgraded ufi integrated exterior security light and 360 camera in one unit. So I would like to know where this can be gotten as I do not have the total info on this. Second is it activated with a motion sensor and is it available with a solar panel to avoid additional wiring etc.? How will it transmit the security images?

Wanted to upgrade exterior lights in house i bought. Exterior Shed light just a hole in wall for wires. Deck lights missing junction box. Back garage door light not wired, housing covered. Front garage sconces x2 had romex into garage loft not tied into a circuit. Parking area has a finished ceiling with 2 light fixtures. The loft above, accessed via ladder, is partially covered with 4x8s lying on joists. I'm partial to motion sensing lights on the front too and will probably tie them into a switch inside the garage. Is there a proper way to route the romex over to a junction box in the loft (staples, drilling, etc)?

Thank you very much, it's really help.

Great video I enjoyed it

Are pancake boxes rated for outdoor use? Some models at Lowe's have responses of "no" in the Q&A section when asked about using them outdoors.

Excellent, thank you!

Thanks for the video. I do everything myself. I am a Union Steamfitter but built most of my own log home in 1990. I would have used the opportunity to clean the siding with a some window cleaner or something. Everything else seemed great in your video. I have yet to buy some wagos but am looking forward to trying this method as it seems much more secure. Peace

How close to the eve can you mount outdoor fixtures? Some fixtures require you to have a certain amount of space because the fixture and eve for cooling or to keep the eve from getting to hot.

Great Video. Thank you for sharing

I'm all good doing the electrical myself thanks for sharing that information about gang Box and code

Don't you want to use any silicone to cover the Left, Right, and Top edges of the mounting surface? Leave the bottom open so water can escape? I have seen a lot of folks get water intrusion and damage because they didn't have the gasket... but the backup of caulk around the edges made intrusion harder to occur. Also what about checking that wiring to see if it is correctly run inside EMT or other safe ways

Any suggestions for 6 inch aluminum siding?

Many mounting blocks have built in pancake boxes. Take a look at the Arlington blocks: 8141F "Mounting block with built in electrical box for smooth vertical mounting of light fixtures on all siding types." Or the 8131 "Siding mounting kit with built in electrical box. 6.8 cubic inch box."

What kind of mounting block would you use if you were mounting to a stucco surface?

Great info, thanks.

I have used the larger outside box you show, but I struggle with the strain relief/clamp in the back. I have installed the romex clamp inside the box, instead of on the back, but it is very awkward.

Nice video. You should make it a habit of connecting your ground first then your neutral and hot last. It assures that you have a positive connection to the panel before you hook up the hot despite the fact the power is off.

Very helpful video.

Nice great video we used to install sliding & those plastic mounting blocks were it no junction boxes. Your job is very neat & clean. It might not be upto code who cares.

Hi Scotr - thanks for the great videos (they have been SUPER helpful for me as a DIY-er, and I’ve bought some of the Wago level nuts through your Amazon page after learning about them from you). Just a quick FYI, the company EUFY is pronounced “YOU-FEE” (it rhymes with “Goofy”, and that’s the way they pronounce it on their own RU-vid channel - the end syllable isn’t a hard “i” sound, like in“Wi-Fi”). Anyway, keep up the great content and you’ll just keep getting more and more subscribers!

Changes I would make, use dielectric grease in the wagos to protect the connection from moisture/corrosion (don't think they are rated for damp locations, at least then they should be ok, there's not enough room in there to use wago's gelbox), use some kind of sealant (silicone or any other outdoor/wet/UV rated product) on the wall block and around the fixture on the top and sides leaving the bottoms somewhat open to breathe out any mosture that gets inside (i know in this case it is less likely water will get in from being under the overhang, but some always does, and i never trust those seals provided by the fixture). Done better would be to cut in a proper box in the wall to bring it up to code making sure eveything is properly strapped/secured and water proofed, never like seeing those shallow boxes outside like that directly attached to the outside of the wall, whenever i see them they are rusting from moisture and corroded connections (and yes usually mounted to a brick wall with no sealing around it).

Are metallic boxes allowed in damp locations like that?

Good tips! :)

i noticed that some of the square plastic plates come with their own "electric box" molded into it. Are those ok and code compliant? Not sure a metal steel box is the best choice if it is a humid area.

Did that backing block come already notched for the 4" siding? I usually caulk the top and two sides.

very helpful thank you

Nice video you answered my question on what size electric box to get to make it set flat against my mounting block now I am just going to make one trip to the store Thanks lol

How long of a screw did you use to mount the junction box by chance?

You can't have open wires going into the box. They can rub against the edges of the knockout and you might get a short to ground. The Romex should be pulled out a little and held in the knockout with a clamp. Also, check the neutral with your non-contact detector. There might be miswiring somewhere.

Thanks for the info!

I'll look at Wago's going forwards but....when I need to wire-nut stranded and solid wires together, I've found that making a slight (20 degree?) kink/bend in the solid wire gives something better for both the stranded wire and the wirenut to attach to.

I personally caulk behind it as well to make it completely seal. Is it a bad practice?

I installed one of those eify lights, and those shallow boxes never make it easy. I was glad the kit came with multiple length screws, though.

question I have the mounting block already but I bought a bigger led light that is more of a rectuangular shape.... there is a junction box.... but now when I finished installing the light it hangs at a diagonal and there know way to silicone the outside because it isn't flight because the shape is now different. is this a code violation? I want it to hang straight flush straight but don't really care it still looks great.

Do you recommend using silicone or some sealer on the mounting block or any of the items you attached in the video? I will add a floodlight + camera combo on my shed

I checked everything is good to download.

Why is the Wago for the ground on the inside of the pancake box and the other two placed on the outside? Are they different types of Wagos?

Scott; Great video. Do you mind posting a link to this light assembly.?

It's really cool how the vinyl mounting blocks have the backs cut to match the siding! I wouldn't have known that a junction box is required for code. I would have likely just replaced the new unit that same way the old one is mounted. I have a brick house and would rather use the mounting blocks with a pancake junction box inside rather than the thicker exterior box. I have siding in some places and I'd be afraid that smashing it to mount the junction box would distort the finish near the block, so I would trim the the siding circle out to the wood or whatever underneath and mount the pancake to that. For the bricks on my house, I would cut the pancake hole and mount it inside the mounting block to keep the light flush. I'd spray paint the mounting blocks to match the red brick as best as I could and use black fixtures instead of white, but that's me. I agree that the WAGO connectors would be a great timesaver while making the work safer to complete, especially mating stranded wire to solid. It looks like you forgot to include your Amazon link this time. Do you have a motion sensor light without a camera in your store? I want several to light my security system outdoor webcams because their night vision sucks. Solar or electric would be fine, but I think I would like LED panels. I had considered traditional motion sensor flood lights and using GE LED flood light bulbs because they're easier to replace and shine very far, so I'll compare the prices in your store. Thanks, Scott. Code lesson learned.

So at my old townhouse that we bought new in 2000, I was going around doing all of the diy things before we sold it. I shut off the power and verified that it was off to the outside porch light. And right there….. no junction box and no gasket! We had never changed it in 20 years. I took it off and took pictures then swapped it out for a new one. I put everything back the way it was but I did put a bead of outdoor silicone all around to make sure it was good and sealed. When I got up the ladder I saw that water had leaked in. I just didn’t want to leave it worse than when I was there. Now I see that I should have had a junction box! This was a brand new town home! There were so many little things that I wondered if they were to code. I added extra things and even hand wrote out what every breaker went to because sometimes the same breaker would turn off an outlet in two rooms but not the switches.

Good tip on the WAGOs, and connecting them to the stranded fixture wires first means the easier connection is while holding everything up in the air. An idea that might be helpful, is to take a stiff wire and make a hook (or use an 'S' hook from the hardware store) to hang the fixture off the electrical box while you connect the wiring. That is easy to unhook and screw it into place when ready.

does code allow for stranded wire in a wire nut? i thought the stranded wire had to be either soldered or ferreled to make it effectively a solid wire.

No gasket on the eufy fixture?

Thank you!

I'm not sure I would have mounted that box on top of the vinyl siding. That said, since we're talking about code violations, how is that wire being run to the light?

i need a cage to protect my eufy camera flood lights, is there any diy videos out there ., the kids are constantly hitting it with their basketball..

This is a great video. I have a question that is different from this video. I have a LED flood light under the outside eve soffit. I want to move it over about 8 feet. My thoughts are that i would get a strip of 12 or 18 gauge wire and connect and extend it over and put it into a new circle metal electrical box. My wire would be exposed under the eve but I would just put it through a piece of conduit. Am I even in the ballpark as far as this being correct? You know a lot more than me and I respect your opinion. Thanks in advance. Chris

Omg, Ty sir. I didn't know they made mounting blocks for siding. Man, that makes my next job so much easier. Ty.ty.Thank you. It's those small, highly useful pieces of information that I'm grateful for. Ty sir.

Thanks!

Hello Scott... I don't see the Amazon link.