Thanks for stopping by! My name is Scott and I am by no means a professional carpenter, electrician, plumber, or any other skilled professional. What I am is always looking to learn and willing to jump in and get my hands dirty. As I build up my own experience around the house and with a couple of my rental properties I will take you along and try to share any tips or lessons learned which you can use in your own everyday home repairs.
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Maybe look back at the package and observe that it says 24AWG - 12AWG Stranded and then 24AWG - 10AWG Solid and you have your first clue... there is NOT enough room to fit all that on the wire clamp so it defaults to the lower common number of 12AWG. Wire nuts have direct copper to copper connection so little to no resistance as opposed to the "bite" of a Wago (or other) that clamps at two spots only with a jump to a different metal bus bar which means more resistance (even negligible) as well as different metal corrosion in damp areas. You also tested in open air that is NOT found inside a wall where these are usually hidden and having cramped space... Test with a thermocouple on the outside for truly accurate readings as FLIR are directly dependent on permissivity of the intervening material to infrared energy. Finally, with all else being the same, the savings of the Harbor freight UL certified will add up when you are considering hundreds of connections in a house when compared to the Wago... Also, those tiny losses will add up to wasted energy with the larger numbers of connectors.
I love wago style connectors for car electrical. As long as it doesnt need to be weatherproof, they are fantastic. I love them for wiring in stuff like radios, gauges, and speakers. Ill be picking up the HF ones after i run out of the Ideals
should swap the connections with the wire nut last in line and see if there is any difference. always heard that connections create more resistance. maybe being further downline it would change the values 🤷
Wagos are awesome in low current applications and are fantastically can be handy, but they simply will not perform as well as wire nuts when it comes to comparing which method of splicing has the lowest resistance connection. A Wago relies on its own internal busbar to connect wires in a circuit together whereas a wire nut simply insulates and maintains a proper wire-to-wire bond from either a pre-twist or through twisting the wires together under the nut (I do not like the latter method, but some people swear by it and some wire nuts are rated for creating the bonding twist). The Wago inherently adds resistance to the circuit because it stands in between the wires where the bond from the wire nut effectively does not since the connection between the wires are the wires themselves (when installed CORRECTLY!!!). The resistance from the Wago is small, but measurable and can add up when Daisy chained between a bunch of receptacles on one circuit. It would be very interesting to record voltage drop on the final receptacle of three otherwise identical circuits with 8 receptacles daisy chained each using a test case of wire nut connections with a pigtail running to the receptacle in each box, a second case where the wire nut is replaced by a Wago, and finally a third case where the receptacle's busbar is utilized as the means of bonding the wires (only wire nut/Wagon on ground wire). This is not a ding on Wagos. They have a good place in the field and I use them frequently (electrician here), but their limitations should be understood. Honestly, in low duty-cycle applications I do still use Wagos in environments that could potentially draw a lot of current. The foremost extreme example I can think of is under cabinet receptacles. There is almost no space to use wire nuts in those annoying fixtures, so I use Wagos despite knowing a lot of current will pass through them since Wagos are rated for 20+ amps and literally drop the install time by about 15-20 minutes per fixture (about a 50-60% drop install time and an 80% drop in install frustration). The current that passes through them will only exist for a few minutes at a time (almost never for more than an hour... I'm looking at air fryers/countertop ovens as worst case scenario...).
I like the Wago Lever Nuts (and Ideal In-Sure) wire connectors for connecting the stranded wires on AC light fixtures to the solid conductors in the box. The lever action lets you prep the wires and then easily "poke and lock" while juggling the fixture. I would prefer the classic American wire nuts (or even a European style screw type terminal block) for any serious current, but I feel that the lever types will do a better job mating to stranded wire at lower currents.
You could measure voltage drop across the connector, then times that drop by the amperage, to see how many watts the connector is wasting,,, just sayin
Tyvm for this. We just moved into a beautiful 90 yr old home and I have been working for month upgrading everything to modern. Just got to the thermo and realized getting the nest maybe impossible but now I see it’s not. Ty
Wire nuts all the way. The actual conductors twisted together for good conduction only made better with the compression of the metal threads of the wire nut. I have a concern about wago connectors failing over the long run, like back wired receptacles
I will never be convinced that there is a superior connection when compared to pre twisted wires with a wire nut. As a professional i dont have time to comeback snd replace burnt up connectors.
“Easy fix!” is not how I would describe this project. I thought he was going to salvage the broken piece, lay a new base underneath so it’s flush, and cement it into place.
You know nothing of what your doing. Your drawing 30amps through a #12 cable?? And then through a cheap triple outlet tap, and then 3 connectors? What kind of test is that? Are you serious? Half of the heat is coming off the cable and that outlet tap and then the connectors. Go find another hobby.
Heres a guy who says hes using wagos for years whos not an electrician. What does he do with them? Eat them? Or doing unlicensed work? Wagos are junk and so are imitation ones. Even his own test confirms there junk as they get hot as no connection should. But he sells them on his web site.
How as that big box store corrugated pipe held up? I want to do this but heard they’re very cheap and crush. Seems the only other option is the French drain man’s pipes but their freight cost is high. Have you had any issues with this pipe?
