How to install an IKEA Cabinet on a wall 

I hope it works for you!

Thank you! I am glad it helped.

Haha! You're too kind!

The one thing I didn't show was actually sliding it down onto the brackets, but that's pretty self-explanatory. Just position it a few inches high, hold it tightly to the wall, and let it slide down into place.

It all turned out great! Thank you

Yes, the HOLES will line up. But you still need to measure from the rail to the top of the cabinet, since the cabinet is higher than the bracket itself (you can see this at 2:20 in the video)

@@AverageMe i think jsiu is correct. When you flip the rail upside down, it is exactly the correct height that if you treat the top of the rail as the top of the cabinet, and mark your holes, when you flip your rail back over and attach it, the top of the cab will be at exactly the height you held it upside down.

@@alphacat9302 Ok I see what you're saying. That's the problem with the terrible instructions they provide!

I'm glad it made sense. I'm looking at it as I type and it's strong and secure.

Thanks Sev!

David Camargo - I hope it was helpful.

I used a bubble level when marking the location for the bracket. If the bracket is level, the cabinet will be level. I measured the height location, then drew a pencil line using a level. I mounted the bracket on the line. You can see it at 5:46, which also shows the center line I marked. Studs are needed because you want the screws in wood. They will pull right out of drywall after time and the cabinet will fall! It's okay to use the drywall anchors in some places (like I did) but you really want a few screwed right into wood if possible. You can use a studfinder but I wasn't having luck because it's an exterior wall and the finder was struggling with the insulation. There's a light switch below the cabinet and I know that is mounted on a stud, so I used that for reference and measured from there 16" on center to find all the studs (standard building practices is to place studs every 16"). I drilled one small test hole to see if I was hitting wood (if wood was in the drill bit). I was, so I knew I was on a stud.

Yes it's very workable. Make sure you measure accurately using the mounting bracket holes from the edge of the wall (corner), but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. I just wanted it to be centered between the wall and the window. The center of the cabinet should be measured from the wall, and that's there the center of the bracket will be.

@@AverageMe But can the cabinet be mounted slightly sideways when attaching it to the rail, in order for the side not to scratch the wall?

I did not have that issue. My cabinet is pretty flush with the wall. The only thing I can think of that would cause that would be a bent mounting bracket, or some other issue that caused a gap between the wall and the bracket; maybe even an uneven wall, or flaw in the plaster if it's an older plaster wall.

I'm not sure, as I no longer have the documentation.. It's a Besta brand from Ikea. I'm betting if you get their catalog, or even search online you might find it. Good luck and thanks for watching!

Their entire cabinet line, basically a versatile mix-and-match modular system, is called BESTÅ.

No, I measured, marked, and placed the anchors into the way, then mounted the bracket.

I hope it all worked out for you!

The weight of the cabinet should hang from the mounting brackets as seen at 2:00 in the video. It's the bracket that should be securely attached (bolted) to the wall, not the cabinet itself (you can see the bracket at 5:33). There only purpose for the screws through the back are to secure it to the bracket, not to support the weight against the wall. Hope that helps.

I have a Besta TV cabinet that looks similar to this. I mounted hownot shows but it did not work. It didnt come with mounting brackets such as what you had :/

@@skatardrummer1 You have to buy everything separate. Cabinets, mounting brackets, doors, etc. If you use the Besta planner on their site it sorts that all out for you. If you ordered online, there is usually something that tells you the parts you need should you want to hang it. If you got it in store and asked someone about it, they failed to tell you you need to buy the bracket separately.

Gero Stera - i’m sorry but I don’t know. I marked the distance from the top of the cabinet to the top of the bracket, then I marked that location on the wall. Next I held the bracket in place and simply marked locations with a pencil where the holes were to be drilled. So I do not know the distance. In reviewing the video it appears to be about 2”

@@AverageMe In fact I see about 1.8 "in the center of the hole. I need to know because the wall on which will be placed the cabinet is a plaster partition and so I must provide a support to fix the rail of the suspension (bracket). thank you very much for your video, it will help me a lot. (And thanks to google translator).

Not much, only about 1/8” but you can’t mount it flush if you use the standard mounting brackets. You could make it LOOK flush by adding a decorative strip to hide the gap after hanging it

@@AverageMe thank you so much!

Any and all holes come with the cabinet. I didn't drill a single hole.

Everything in the video was included

@@AverageMe Thank you very much!