Awesome easy to follow, the best one I have seen on this. The only thing I would have done different is, make sure the 3 holes was in the brick instead of having one on the mortar joint. I am differently going to look Into learning how to solder pipes as normally I use push fit connectors. This is one I have saved to use when I get my own place if it doesn't have one. Cheers 👍
Great video. Very informative and detailed. I'd add that the double check valve is a requirement for most, if not all of the water authorities in the UK and you must have one. As in the video, you can get them as a separate item but it is also possible to get a tap with the DCV built in. They're a bit more expensive but saves that extra piece in the line and those extra joins.
Really nice installation Cameron. Only thing I’d do myself would be installing a tap with a double check valve pre fitted and using a full bore valve as you don’t always get a decent flow rate with the standard ones that everybody uses. A really good tutorial though 👍🏻
Double check valve should be installed internally as in water regs. Great video Cameron. (Most accessibly positioned internals I've ever seen like, I never get them that easy😂)
Sound but it doesn’t comply to water regs. No non return valve installed. This allowing dirt on back siphonage into the cold water mains that you will be drinking from.
Good video and well presented mate, some water authorities ( inc Anglian) state the need for a plastic push fit isolator in case of lightning strike. Just thought it was worth a mention👍🏻
I love your video’s and best of all, love the fact that you link all the tools needed to do the shop and explain everything easy, not like the majority of RU-vidrs. Remember explain slowly as if your explaining to a 10 year old?
A very good guide to tap fitting . I want to know how to fit a tap if ur kitchen is at the top and the garden wall is further down? How do you connect the pipes ?
Personally I'd use liquid ptfe. You can just thread tap on dry, mark the holes with the tap vertical then unscrew and fit your pipe. Tap will wind straight back on with the liquid ptfe and end up perfectly straight. I prefer full bore isos for max flow rate through your hose. Good install though nice and tidy👍 you could have added in a drain off before the elbow if you wanted for the winter.
Great points. I don’t usually add rain offs just because I’ve never found them particularly useful however I understand why people do and would potentially like one. Cheers
I'm getting quotes for getting an outside tap installed, after watching this video and looking at the access required, I may need to move where I wanted the tap, definitely cheaper for me to get a plumber as I don't have access to the tools you have and also if I do it wrong the wife can't blame me😂. Great video though, truly informative.
Excellent How To!....well described and very clear information. One tiny addition I suggest..........pre-position a hip flask of Wood's Rum to reward yourself for a job well done....thanks to The DIY Guy!
Best to use a stopcock or lever valve as those service valves over time the O rings inside leak when you are turning the water on/off yearly & in an emergency the client won't readily find a screwdriver . We also install a draincock & the reason why is when the tap is isolated in the winter there is still water trapped in the pipework that can freeze , so the purpose of the drain cock apart from allowing water to be drained is to allow air in to force the water out the tap , in turn releasing any residual water in the pipe passing through the wall. It's a common problem that alot of installers do. If it's not done what can happen is the pipe through the wall freezes & then you have an issue when you turn the supply back on in the summer or whenever they require to use it. Other than that you did a great install neat & tidy. 👍
As there has been a lot of comments about a drain valve been fitted, can I ask do you mean the valve should be between the bend and double check valve. Then turn off the isolation valve and openthe drain valve to remove any residual water in winter before the isolation valve is turned on. In my last house the pipe froze and burst between the isolation valve and outside tap so I always turn off since but seems I should get a drain valve in.
Extra suggestion - seal over the end of the copper pipe before pushing it through the wall to avoid it picking up drill dust/cavity wall insulation/etc. on the way.
I got a quote of £80 for a plumber to do this for me, and after seeing how many tools will be needed and the amount of steps, it’s one DIY job that is actually worth just getting a plumber to do!
Totally agree 🤯.. loved this vid but it also convinced me that it’s a step beyond my capabilities as a casual DIY’er. ( £80 seems very cheap btw ) 👍🏴
Tell you what’s even better than PTFE and that thread, it’s called “That rapid blu-stuff” basically a liquid you run onto the threads, it’s great for backing off and sets pretty quickly. Amazing stuff
I would bring the feed to the tap from the top and fit another T with isolation valve so in the cold months you can shut the water of open the out side tap and then the isolation valve drain the water out so it doesn't freeze When the water is drained out close the isolation valve and leave the outside tap open
Hello mate, great video as always, I want to do the same but have the tap infront of the property to make life easier when washing the car or cleaning the driveway, What’s the best way to achieve that?
Hi, thanks. Do you have a mains cold pipe anywhere at the front of your home? If so you need to gain access to it and follow this guide to assist you. Otherwise you will need to find your closest mains supply pipe and find a route to run some copper pipe to the front of the home through floors/walls. Cheers
@@TheDIYGuy1 Hello thanks for the reply, yes I do have the mains supply it’s actually in my drive and it’s got the stop valve on it, do I just connect it to that ?
Great video. Potentially dumb question: Do the outside taps and pipes need to be insulated or a special type to prevent bursting in cold weather or to prevent heat loss from the home?
Quick question: Is it possible to drill from the inside to the outside? Or is there a reason to drill outside in? Will it minimise any damage to the outside wall perhaps?
Why is it more difficult to back off from a full tightening with ptfe, is it because the tap is left too loose on the thread if you don't fully tighten. Is there any disadvantage with the loctite. For example, does loctite make it harder to remove the tap should you ever need to replace it.
Well, you’ve done a great job, and explained the procedure very well. But i doubt its really that ‘quick and easy’ unless one knows something about plumbing. I’ll call the plumber. 😊
Just a quick question, how the heck do you get silicon off your fingers/hands? I seem to be unable to do this and spread it around everywhere like a muddy puppy! Another fantastic video.
I have a copper pipe coming out of the wall where my builder was going to add a tap, but never did, can i just add a tap to it? It's currently got a bung on the end so no idea if it is threaded.
Very nice. For plumbing on Gas pipes, is it same method. How I can check gas leakages. I want to fit floor bayonet for gas heater in living area, any guidance will be great.
I don't think you mentioned it but for others, while it might feel counter-intuitive to drill outside to in, it stops you blowing the brick out on the outside. Just use the window as a frame of reference to measure down to where you want to be.
I have an existing tap, with a brass pipe coming out of the wall that I have to lag every winter. I found out last summer the tap nearby got pull off.Would like a wall fitted brass tap to be more secure. Unfortunately goes behind a washing machine in the kitchen. Will I have cut old pipe to fit the fitting that you shown?
Can you advise me? I have an outside tap but it’s at the back of the kitchen extension and it emerges low down on the outside wall. The floor is concrete. There is a stop cock about 12 feet from the back of the house in the kitchen for turning off mains water in the event of an emergency. There is no exposed pipe work in the kitchen other than under the kitchen sink unit which is on the outside wall of the galley kitchen. I would like to reroute the outside tap from the back of the house to the side of the house to reduce the length of pipe involved and make it safer but I’m unable to work out how the outside tap pipe work, presumably under the concrete floor, connects to the cold water supply…🤔
Why only the cold water? I did both for mine. The luxury of warm water after a winters night-time off road ride during the week to wash off all of the mud
the main reason you have to fit a non return valve is for water by laws , if a fire unit connects to the water hydrant to put out a fire the back syphonage can suck contaminated water into the pottable water supply , not good
Loving your vids. 3 things: if you're drilling from the outside-in then how do you know the pipe's gonna come thru in the right place? And joining the one way valve to the exterior pipe, surely a 300 flexi would be so much easier at minimal cost? Also, if you have an old house with really dense red bricks, your twenty quid electric drill will not be up to task.
I've been looking at installing an outside sink to help with gardening stuff, and thought it would be nice to also have hot water supply too for when it's colder outside, however I see generally outside taps are only ever connected to the cold water supply. Is there a reason for this? Is it not advisable to have a hot water supply running outside for any reason?
Hot water outside tap is something you can simply do by following this guide in your hot water pipe instead of cold. You can even do both and install a mixer if you desire 😊
You shouldn't fit the back plate in position until you've screwed in the tap. That way you can tighten the tap up as tight as you can, then rotate the back plate so it's in the upright (correct) position. Often you find you tighten these taps and they end up facing the wrong way.
yes i get what hes saying, but if the tap ever got changed in futer it would be same thread but at different starting points. for me it usually a preference to locate the holes in the back plate first. you can always add more cord towards the shoulder if needs be.
Never drill all the way through with the big drill bit, go half way through from both sides or you will probably knock a big lump out the wall, try to land your 3 screw fixings on brick.
As a rule, you shouldn't be making a fixing in the cement as you have done in this video. Those three holes should have ALL been drilled in the brick. Reason why, mortar/cement, can flake and crumble over time, brick will not if drilled in the right position.
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Do not. I repeat, DO NOT, use those silver isolation valves!!!! They are horrendous and will leak over time from the section you put a screwdriver in to turn on or off. Instead, use a lever valve.
Your presenting is next level. So easily too follow! You get some guides who just don’t get to the point of waste time trying to be funny. Nothing funny about this just good honest helpful content. Thankyou.
