How to Install Ball Joints on a Classic Mini 

Best and clearest Mini vids on RU-vid! Thanks!

solid tutorial. love the step by step approach and the background information. I appreciate it!

This guys has a future on RU-vid! Very helpful videos - Good luck!!

Thank you so much for making these videos, I'm binge watching these because they're so helpful! Really handy to have while my dad and I are restoring a 67 cooper s.

I saw your videos a while back when you were doing your road trips I didn't know you were doing these tech vids . I've just watched a few and there really good , the mini's a simple car but some of the servicing jobs can be quiet daunting if you've never done them before . Well done , keep them coming.

As usual, the absolute gold standard in mini diy content! Thank you. Ordered a bunch of stuff from you guys today as a small token of my appreciation. Keep up the good work!

Great video guys. Much more enjoyable to watch than do it yourself!

Thanks so much for this video. I've just rebuilt my ball joints and this is the perfect guide.

Really excellent content once again! Super thorough explanation and simple to follow.

Outstanding content - really well explained, well filmed and truly useful for those of us with creaky old Minis - thanks Philip & team 👍

Dude... You released a film on the same day as gymkhana, I like your guts!

Love seeing brothers from across the pond, who are into Brit-mobiles. 👍

Very nice film thanks! Brought back a lot of memories from my first Minis in 1980,s. Have to say I always did it with the hub still on the car, but I guess I was younger and more flexible in those days! I still have the big flat spanner complete with hammer marks!

Great video. Glad I'm not the only one having loads hassle getting the correct shim thickness !! Too tight....too loose... Spent half an hour swapping between different shims on one joint. Joys of classic car maintenance.

Very clear and well presented video. Easy to follow step by step. Also very professional , lighting is good, sound is good. I have a leyland 1275E with drum brakes in front and after watching your video am now more confident about tackling this job , thanks very much. Will be visiting your channel more often now.

Nice to see somebody who knows what he's talking about, cheers Dave. Dave's 1987 mini rebuild project on F/B.

Excellent detailed and well produced video as usual.

do not use the pickle fork (we call it a pigs foot ) if you're not replacing the ball joints (e.g. just doing wheel bearing) because as you belt it in with a hammer it can damage the domed nut meaning you would have to replace the ball joints even if they were in good condition.

Recently found your channel, and I love your shop. Not a mini owner, but a vintage enthusiast. Great work all around. Cheers from an RRC owner in Chicago!

Great video. Excellent tips and tricks for those brave enough to take this on for the first time. You make it look so easy.

Great video! I start immediately from my left wheel!! Many Thanks!

Great video and so nostalgic. I did this job many times on the Austin Allegros I and my parents owned in the 70s and 80s. I always did them in-situ, though, so as not to disturb the CV joint in the drive flange, the bearing pre-load and the bearing seal I always broke the tapers with an extractor so as not to damage the grease seal when I was adjusting rather than replacing. As you advised, I would lap-in the ball and the cup with valve grinding paste when I was re-using them. Rather than so much trial and error, though, I collected the shims, micrometered them and put them into marked jam-jars (with some of that impregnated paper that stops things rusting) so I could identify them. Then I used feeler gauges under the floating lock ring to get the right thickness of shims. It’s right about the 1.5-inch-deep socket. They cost an arm and a leg when Sykes-Pickavant made them, but they also fitted the nut that held the keyed washer that locked the flywheel to the crankshaft. Again, great tutorial and many thanks 😁

I will do it the same as you did it well done 👍 mate from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺 . Great video. Make sure you clean the holes we’re they go on the car 🚙. With a wire brush or sand paper. Easy to line UP.

fantastic video as always, it's nice to learn new things about the car, before you tackle it yourself.

What an excellent, really professionally-produced video! Wish it had existed approx 50+ years ago - but must be so helpful to anyone needing to do this today.

Great video. I just did mine on the weekend before seeing this video, and did it on the vehicle without taking the hubs off at all. No doubt took longer than what you did on the bench, but means I didnt have to take the CV out etc. I replace my joints this time with the Japanese made Delta Mini mainteance free joints, rather than the traditional shimmed joints - as I find the quality of these is rather rubbish these days and they wear terribly fast. Hopefully the Delta ones are good, will find out! estimated to last 50,000km! I lapped the last traditional ball joints I got as they were not great quality, but it meant I had no shims right from new in order to get the right feel on the joint, so they had to be replaced next round rather than being able to shim them - which is frustrating.

I noticed that hou had the split collar on while also adding the plain washers when tightening the nut to seat the bearings in the hub. The manual actually says not to have the split collar in to avoid it pinching the axle so that it clamps the axle like a vice and the torque that you apply actually goes to pinching the axle instead of pulling things together. So take out the split collar, add washer, torque it to specs, losen it, take of plain washer, add split collar, and retighten to specs. Thanks for your otherwise informative video, as always. Love your channel.

Excellent tutorial thanks this will be very helpful

Very informative. I love this guy and his vids! :)

Spot on - brings back memories! 👌🏻

sick videos man ! im new to this buy bought a 96 spi 1.3 so these are so helpful ! along with a haynes manual of course haha !

Usually the wear is the worst on the passenger side, the side that hits all the pot holes and the side of the road. Great video

great vid guys, keep them coming .

I always enjoy your videos. You need new gloves, brother. 😊 Where is your goto shop for parts? Also changing bearing and doing maintenance on the rear wheels would be great video ideas if you haven't done them yet. Last question, if you were to work on the engine/trans, would you pull it from the top, or unhook the front subframe and lift the car over the engine and move it away? I pulled an engine out one time and had a heck of a time putting it back in and aligning the engine mount bolts.😰

Great video, very thorough, thank you

Nicely done as always. The only change I would make to the strip down is to take off the hub and backplate before breaking the top and bottom swivel joint tapers. fewer parts for a mis-aimed hammer to damage. If you have a micrometer you can screw down the dome nut hand tight then feeler gauge the gap between the lockplate and the base of the dome nut and then mic up the different shims to get the best first setting. But 'bendiness' works well enough ...

glad i found this channel :') got an old clubman ive had to put in the shed. possibly stuff piston ring. blows a long of smoke, really really rough running, makes a whole lot of noise but can run faster and that it goes aha. Will be binge watching this channel over the next few months with a notebook in hand.

Great video,helped me a lot.

Good clear video. Thanks.👍

Awesome video! Extremely informative.. Do you guys ever have minis for sale?

Legend ! Brilliant help ,Thank you !!

Great quality videos Steve, anything on replacing water pump?

Nice full job video!, One tip I always perform when servicing ball joints is to lap the joint and cup with a little Valve grinding paste. It smooths out the two friction points and will give a smoother operating joint. also be SUPER careful with a fire in your shop..IT may look cool or just be for a video but seriously.fuel fumes gather at ground level and disperse. LOW Any small leak could be the fumes to a BIG disaster...

You're awesome! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Very helpful. Thank you sir.

I used to put the nut in the lathe and take a light cut off the seating surface if it was desperate timeline to get it done when parts weren't to hand .

Love your video!!!😍 It's awesome!! Thank you!

thanks dude, good video!

@2.00 was taught this by by grandfather never enuff safety precautions when it comes to being under a lifted car! 40+ yr mechanic

Awesome video. Love your stuff

Awesome video! Thx ❤

Great vid!!

Hi your video are really informative, and very usable!!!

Looks like you need some new work gloves! Great, informative video. Thanks for sharing!

Great video..

Outstanding !

Thanks! I’m going to change that in my mini...

Fantastic!!!

Love the vid! Can you post a link to where you buy your parts and these specific parts? Is this just a generic classic mini ball joint kit on MiniSpares?

Finally some one who knows how to do a lower ball joint

Thumbs up thanks!!!

Thx bought my Mini 1300 two days ago Need to get fit

Used to shim them up still on the car. Hammer chisel to undo pack out with grease takes a lot of play out.

very good explanation, :):)

You guys should do a video on converting from drums to disks or changing from a 998 to a 1275 (what I’m trying to do) 😉

Love your channel!! Please keep uploading great vids! Btw do you have you guys' instagram account? If so let me know Ill follow you! Big fan from Japan :)

Thanks, keep the videos coming.

Exellant work something that I would not like to to attempt myself always leave it to a qualified mechanic

Merciii !!!

You know if used a digital caliper / vernier you can measure the thicknesses and use an indelible marker and write the thickness on each shim . Also write down how much is added to hub ..eg .2 and .5 just write down 0.7 too loose. 0.2 0.2 = 0.4 too tight . just writing it down will help .rgds Don

I would clean whole Hub Assembly before Replace new Parts, nice and clean Job,, :) lol

Nice vid! What wheel arches do you have on?

hello steve a how many Kn you tightened the joint

is it not a risk that using an impact tool to remove a wheel axles nut can damage or over-wear the CV joint & cv axle?

how tight must the ball joint in newtons / meter be?

Where did you get your ball joints from?

Where do you guys get your parts from?

Probably been asked 100x but what arches do you have as I would like the same for my car. Thanks

Excellent!

Gracias ok

Hi, is it possible that steering is stiff on a Mini SPI 1996 due to svivel hub ball joints can be seized or worn? I would appreciate an answer from anyone who has had a problem with a stiff steering. Thanks. Joe

What flares are on that Mini?

Anybody know why the big washers were used at the end 🤔

on reassembling it to the car when I try to put the nut on the ball joint, the ball joint spins. 27:00

I.m a big guy from Detroit..so what do i like...MINIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Where do you put floor jack on lift MINI?

Dumb question but when you replace ball joints, you don’t need to realign the car right?

😎👍

What size vise do you use? Do you have a source?

Hi Steveston, thankyou so much! I'm learning a lot from your channel, but now I have a problem, after building the ball joint with different thicknesses, I have found a good compromise, but if I turn the axis of the ball joint I can find, not so often, a situation where it is stuck. I tried to use the abrasive paste with the drill, but I still find a tight spot, if I move away from this tight spot, I need some time to find it and when I'm there the drill can't turn with the paste, it's too tight. Do you have any suggestions?

What if these guys did a colander with CLASIC MINI DIY

It’s kinda like eating fish, picking the bones apart. Lol

2:00 You need to be sure first if your miserable life is worth more than a very nice set of wheels.

Pity you didn't lap in the ball joints, some years ago when the off the shelf item had a cost down exercise they removed the final grinding processes and now unless they are lapped in then they won't last very long and will be loose by next MOT..... This process was something I developed many years ago to improve on feel and quality and of course life of the parts. Also please get training on using a torque wrench, that's a shocking method you have there, one click not 3 and in your case I watched the parts move as you "bottomed" out the torque release mechanism, in other words over torquing the fixtures.