Watching a video for a project I'm about to take on, getting tips from a guy I went to high school with...small world. Probably the best advise regarding mounting the rail to the header at the appropriate height I've seen in the dozens of videos I've watched. Good work, Palmer.
Great video.... question I noticed you didn't put stopper between doors???? Bought mine and comes with 4 ....2 for each end and 2 for the center when shutting doors???? Do you need them or not for the middle????
WOW that's a great idea. I am building another door and was wondering how to avoid a "blowout". I will definitely try your method. Thanks for the advice.
Our door opening height is 80 inches from the floor to the top and we want to use 80 inch doors. Is this possible if we have the hanging hardware right at the top of the doorway? Also, is there hardware for the bottom that can be attached to the baseboard instead of screwing into new flooring we just put down? Thank for your help and the video.
So 80" door will be feasible but not ideal with the trim fully exposed. Its more of an aesthetic look vs technical detail. For the floor vs baseboard question I can't say that I have sern one. I feel your pain on drilling into new floors but it is hidden under the door.
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer Thank you so much for replying. Like your closet in the video, we don't have trim around the door opening. We hope that will allow us to use the 80 inch door and keep a nice look. TY again.
Hey Great video, did your track joiner come with your kits, because mine did not (Everbuilt) also I am planning on installing mine in a recessed space about 6" shorter than the tracks combined length, do you think these can be cut to accommodate the space (there is plenty of room for the doors to recess)?
You can add them if needed, but if you need to move both doors to one side that would prevent you doing so. Best to look into bypass doors in that situation. 👍
They work fine on the rail system. Just mount your header board with a secure connection to the studs. I prefer 1x10 rough lumber or anything at least 1" thick to allow good hold on lags.
I have two doors that slide to the middle from east side like the video,How can you install a stop in the middle so it doesn’t go past center and door come off floor guides , Thx Don
If the doors come off the floor guides, your rail is too high off the ground or perhaps you have a severe slope in the floor. As for a stop in the middle, you'll likely have to find an extra stop as I am guessing you put one at each end and the sets normally only come with 2 per bar. If you have a 3rd available, just slide it along the bar (while it's off the wall unmounted) and set it in place after you reinstall the rail. Hope this helps.
Hey Chris, I am mounting a barn door over an opening to a bedroom, its about 4.5’ wide and its hard to locate studs behind sheet rock using a simple stud finder and knocking method. Any tips to better locate for a kicker board?
The best part about using a header board to mount the rail is that you can mark up the drywall with small pin holes and they will never be seen. So use a small drill bit and try marking 16" from the first corner and use the drill bit to test for the studs. Other methods i use are a bright mini flashlight to highlight indents or small screw pops noting a screw in a stud. Use a 1/16" drill bit for the hole testing and this way if you want it can be filled and repaired with one simple dab of drywall patch.
HANDCRAFTED by Chris Palmer Thanks for your reply! Ill give these a shot. I had. Ot considered looking for the indentions of the nails under the paint and tape. Time to make some holes! Haha. Really appreciate it man.
Instead of drilling holes first, I always try a NEODYMIUM magnet also called rare earth magnet. They will find the drywall screws/nails when you run them across the wall and that will be where the studs are
Your installation is amazing, i have encountered the problem is the balance when i install, is there any simple tactics that the barn door can be vertical stand without leaning inwards.
Thanks, and yes if you leave the safety stops off the top of the door you can slip the door on without tilting it. Trouble is the gap between top of door and the bottom of your wheel are supposed to be just enough to slip it onto the track. Hope this helps.
I have 2.25" thick barn doors. Do i just need to use a longer hex bolt to create additional space between the doors for a bypass system that will only accommodate a 1.75" thick door?
Unfortunately the hardware won't work for that thickness unless it's the top mounting wheels. The rail is the part that needs to stand off the wall further. Essentially a longer bolt plus another spacer could potentially work. But the door won't be balanced as well.
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer I have the original top mount wheels. The doors are from 1917'ish. I have removed the wheels simply b/c I planned to do a bypass system w/o top mount wheels. The top mount wheels need some elbow grease and TLC, but they are functional. The wheels were originally mounted with approx a 2.5" lag bolt. My concern is the weight of the doors (~60'ish Lbs) combined with the age of the doors and their ability to withstand use. If I use the top mount wheels, how do I create the extra space for the doors? Will they be balanced if used with top mount wheels or is an off balance system the inevitable outcome?
The video instruction was very clear. I love it. I just purchased 2 barn doors at home depot too but I am having a problem with the hardware kit. the size of doors are (2)30 x 84" and opening is 48". what were the size of your doors and total length of the hardware kit you used? can I get the model if you bought it at home depot?
@@arnelmolina7700 If you have a 48" opening you can use the 2 @ 30" but make sure you have enough wal space to open 2 doors. You could rip the widths down to reduce widths.
The spade bit was sharp and I agree, I 99% of the time use a block or better, forstner bit. However, these doors have large washers on the back and will be painted. 👍
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmerthe video instruction is very clear. I love it. I just purchased 2 barn doors at home depot too but I am having a problem with the hardware kit. the size of doors are (2)30 x 84" and opening is 48". what were the size of your doors and total length of the hardware kit you used? can I get the model if you bought it at home depot?
Sorry you think that. Every install with this is custom to wall length and door size. However there was no guess work, all measured to fit and work properly.
