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I noticed you skipped installing the wood board going across the top . How do you know how for past the framing wood to place the rail board ? It looks like your about a 1/2 or 1 inch past the framing . I take it the space is to allow room for the stop that has to be added . I also take it the wood is the same length of the rail . You also didn't go over how you figured out where to place the rail to make sure the door would have a space below the door once its hanging on the rail . You just started marking holes on the wood without doing any type of measurements at least not on camera , showing how far off the ground the top of the rail has to be for the door to have the proper clearance from the ground and Knowing that distance is the most important part of hanging this door and you left it out . I take it since the bottom of the roller grove to the top of the door is 2 inched you just add another 1/2 inch for clearance of the floor if your carpet is already installed and 1 inch if it's unfinished , plus the length of the door . Say for example the door is 84 inches and you want 1/2 clearance from the floor , the top of the rail has to be 86.5 inches from the ground . So you have to mark the top of the rail on the rail board at 86.5 inches , add a nail in one of the holes next to the where the top of the rail is at 86.5 inches . Once you have nail holding one corner at the correct height of the rail then you can now level the rail and mark the hole through the rail into the wood . I would put another nail on the other end of the rail to hold the now level rail in place and measure from the ground to the top of the rail at the far end to make sure you still have that 86.5 inch distance from the ground . Not all floors are going to be level so it might pay to make sure there is clearance at both ends once the rail is level . If you see the ground is higher on the far end then your going to have to add more clearance and the rail will have to be leveled again at the new measurement . This happens a lot in older homes . I think you should have explained all this in your video but you didn't . The most important part of hanging the door is knowing exactly where the top of the rail has to be from the ground . 2nd that once you have that height ,the rail has to be level at that height and thirdly there has to be clearance under the door at both the open and shut ends and all points in between .
Did a great job explaining with very easy to follow instructions. I only wish you had explained how to determine the height the track should be hung from the floor particularly if you have floor brackets. I believe there is an equation for this.
Spencer, I wish you worked on my house. You are so careful to not damage the product and your technique is so precise and accurate. I love watching your videos, it helps me when I have to do some work around the house 👍🏻
So is a Brain Fart the same as a Brain Freeze ?? Too much Sawdust will give you a Brain Fart !!! Joking buddy. Peace and Love from Texas. P. S. You should dip your nut drivers in that rubber coating stuff that ppl use to coat hammer handles and other things so you won't have to worry about leaving scratches on finishes. ( I hope you understand what I'm talking about ). Lol
Great tips!! Just one thing you forgot to mention. How do you find the correct measurements from the top to the bottom (vertically)? You mentioned you need 1/2 from the bottom, so does that mean you need to give it an extra inch from the top of the door?
No, the 2-inch cardboard is for the hanger spacing - the question pertains to the rail height determination = Door height + bottom clearance + 2 inches would be the height for the top of the rail (not the holes in the rail) @@jayruane3898
Great video Spencer. You made a subscriber out of me. Measurements are critical and you included all but one. How did you determine the height for the hanger? Was the barn door height 84”? How much did you allow off the floor? I’m about to hang mine and your vid made some very good points. Thank you
To position the rail: Door height + bottom clearance + 2 inches (for his hangers) would be the height for the top of the rail (not the holes in the rail).
Apparently I should have watched this 4 months ago, installed bolt heads out to match track bolt heads😬. Our shop built, and my helper and I installed a 2in, 45x84 white oak door.. Weight Aprox 250lbs. My tips from 1 install of a full size door, I had built 2 entertainment centers with barn doors for kennels underneath. #1 buy longer track than you need, ours 6 inches too short. Which meant the hangers were off-center of the stiles. #2 built a full template out of strips of 1/4 ply wood, which helped immensely on layout. #3 when adding a stained runner behind the rail, keep screws from showing. Top screws were 1 in above the rail, bottom screws were 1/2 up from bottom of rail. Line of sight, you can not see them (definitely depends on what the header height is). #4 make sure your runner (what the rail is attached to) is thicker then base board + 1/4 round. The bottom of our door was 3/8 (1/4-1/2 in was our only range) off the floor, for the floor mounted guide in our kit. If 1/4 round would have been present, we would have had to make the railholder/runner wider. Thick door casing/baseboards/out of plumb walls can affect this as well.
Nice job. As one who has built four custom sets of barndoors (3 and 4 doors per set with double tracks) and installed them myself, I know the trials and tribulations involved, and there can be many. My doors were so heavy though, I opened the wall and installed blocking. That also necessitated longer bolts. Additionally, we didn't want straps going up the wall, which your's didn't have, so I flipped the top half of the bracket over and drilled them. Being that they were stainless steel, that was "fun". Our doors function as security over the windows, so I also designed pin type key hole locks. I would send pictures if I could. Our neighbors are amazed. They think I am a skilled carpenter. I'm not. This is the biggest project I have ever done. It took many months. Just took my time with everything. Good part was, I got a lot of tools out of the deal because I "needed" them.
Ha. I can relate to to those tools. Honestly the only tool I've got that I never use is the one I thought I'd use all the time. The rest I bought for the one off job, thought I'd rarely use again.. I use all the time. About to crack open the box for my Barn door track set. Wish me luck. Now I'm looking at my windows. I've been looking to upgrade security and safety our wet season comes with some potentially pretty wild winds ... Could be a thing
Great video, I’m just curious about how you go about figuring out the height at which to mount the door rail? The way I see it is it could be variable depending on the header board width, the height of the door and also the desired/necessary space between the door and flooring.
I got the Reliabilt barn door hardware. The hardware is fine. The directions are only confusing because the graphics are so small. That's why I'm on RU-vid.
The assembly manual that came with hardware wasnt helping that much...after watching your video a lot of questtions were answered ...very detailled video...thanks
Hi spencer Great video mate, I can’t believe I’m fitter one of these barn doors next week, what great timing, now I know what I’m doing it should be easy lol love you work mate i’m still learning at 57 🤪🤪🤪🤪
I just found this video and it is very helpful. Where did you get the door guide you show around 12:00 minutes in. It doesn’t look like the one that comes with the kit. Thanks for sharing the how-to and any info in the door guide.
Barn doors are now popular with hotels for bathroom openings. I installed about 80 of these in a Hilton Hotel. They were wider and thicker than these ones, and two on each floor were 48" for handicap wheelchair rated rooms. They had some serious weight to them.
Love your Tips Spencer! The 2 inch card board trick and the above spacers, the wall mount for the bottom of the door if you have carpet; I have watched a number of these video's and you are the only one so far that has made that all clear to me! Highly appreciated! You are a great teacher. :-)
Spencer, Excellent narration as you demonstrate the project at hand. The fact that you shared your oops and that it didn't get edited out shows you're the real deal and humble. I can do the work but need silence when certain parts need to be done, you're able to teach and demonstrate at the same time which is admirable. Since it appears to be a bedroom door, what type of door lock/latch do you install on that door?
Thank you!!! I have had my barn door for months now too scared to install but this video has given me detail steps and confidence to install. Much Appreciated!!
Found this at the perfect time. I have done a couple of barn doors but this is such a great step by step. I just had a client call me yesterday to install a door. Thanks!
Recently installed a pair of that exact brand/type of hardware as double doors. Cannot express how important it is to get the rails EXACTLY level to each other. Second time I reinstalled them I used a laser...
The last 2 tracks I've ordered from Amazon came with 2 piece tracks for a 6'6" track. Those are crap. Been using the same brand for a couple of years and always been a single bar. I'm guessing they are having shipping issues. I'll try your link next time. Plus I like the bottom guide they include much better.
We're installing our sliding barn door today and your video gave my hubby a bit of extra confidence with your tips etc.. good thought to use masking tape, Thanks for an easy to listen to and easy to follow tutorial.😊 my very first barn door 😁 happy sliding!😊
Excellent tips. Much appreciated. One question though. How did you calculate the height for the rail? Mine has the guide that mounts to the floor. I have to get the height correct so the guide stays in the groove.
To position the rail: Door height + bottom clearance + 2 inches (for his hangers) would be the height for the top of the rail (not the holes in the rail).
Awesome, I have a barn door from another place my wife wants installed but it had a floor mount guide that had two pieces to be screwed to floor (mine is concrete) on either side of door and turns out these got broken. My rail was a 2-piece one which joins in middle which makes difficult to mount. This kit looks much better so I will just order the new kit in your link which will save me a bunch of time and grief. I am putting in a large closet/room downstairs and will just replace the top trim with a new white header like you have in yours. However, I looked at that kit on amazon and the floor track/guide appears to be one that screws to floor, not same as one you show in video that screws to bottom of wall/trim.
Hey Spencer, love your stuff. Just wanted to say it is nice to mark your center points exactly, punch it with a screw and then drill through the door with an 1/8 bit and a drill block to ensure all holes are a perfect 90° before going in with the spade bits. Cheers!
I replaced our hall coat closet with a barn door, which is nice since the old door would block the hallway when it was open. I bought a slab from a door store that matched all our other new doors we were buying, and they were helpful in picking out the right size to cover the opening. The hardware instructions were straightforward. Cutting a channel in the bottom of the door for a floor guide was a pain without a router. I used a Dremel with a router bit, which was a bit sketch, and slow, but it got the job done. I stuck the floor guide onto hardwood laminate with some 3M red tape instead of drilling into the laminate, which worked great. The only thing that sucks is the track stops that came with the hardware were not adjustable, they only attached to the lag bolts, so I bought one adjustable track stop from a different place, which was too expensive if you ask me, and I should really buy one more so i can open the door a bit more, but it's fine for now.
How are the acoustics on this, seeing as it’s sort of a “floating” door over a bathroom. Can people outside of the door hear everything that’s going on inside the bathroom? I guess my question is - how does one make it more flush against the doorway for privacy? Thanks
@@InsiderCarpentry Thank you for responding. I assume that simply having a barrier at all helps block a little bit of sound - just as if I turn a corner into a different room my house I can’t hear the hum from the refrigerator anymore, even if the door is open. But if you want total privacy from all sound I guess a barn door isn’t the best option, is what you’re saying? Thanks again for your response and the helpful video!
My mounting kit came with very good instructions. It told me exactly where to put the mounting screws for the track - door height + 1 11/16in and for the guides on the door, 1st hole 1 9/16 inch, then from that hole 3 9/16 inc.
Excellent instructions Spencer! Before finding your video, there wasn't anything that provided the nuance needed to install the door hardware. You provided many good tips and your instructions were delivered and demonstrated perfectly. Thank you for your help!
Wow that was excellent, I bought an 8 foot barn door track, with bypass hinges when it arrived the instructions are pathetic, no written help just really poor line drawings, you have really helped me and made a lot more sense of what's in the box, thank you very much
Great video...can I ask if door kits usually come with the groove already in the door bottom to accomodate the glide alignment. I don't use a router as good as you! And will they come with a stabilizer for carpet as you showed in your video. Thanks!
It´s a marvelous job , I very apreciate your detail and care. But can you tell me how is the solution about de gap between de floor and the door. I think it's so much... Thanks a lot!!!!
Hey Spencer, I am about to install my barn door and I. Got everything I need from your video. Except this, the door jam still has the molding around it so I’m using a piece of wood like you did to mount the rail on to. My question is how high should I measure for the rail so the door has enough clearance on the bottom and doesn’t drag on the floor? Thanx brother
Some good info and I hate to sound negative but No instructions on door height, door width for the size opening, How much overhang to have around the door frame with the door shut, how wide the header needs to be. How long the track needs to be for the size door, handle placement inside the room so that when you shut the door all the way from inside the room it's all the way closed, but also opens up for maximum opening....lots of variables.
I enjoyed the pacing, length, and user-friendly language in the video. EVerything thing in the video was intentional and relevant to each step. I know absolutely nothign about this world, but after watching I feel confident, with the right focus, I could replicate it on my own or at leastt have an easy to follow process to pinpoint where I made the mistake the begin with. Thank you for sharing your perspective!
my only concern is why leaving such a huge gap between the floor and the door itself. I am going to install 2 regular sliding doors today and one double. the kit that I have got is 99% the same. the only difference is the floor guide which is to be mounted to the floor so the door is going to be almost flush with the floor level.
Question, do you NEED to mount the top rail onto that header board ? If the wall is properly blocked from inside, could you just mount the rail to the sheetrock or will it not be enough clearance for the door to slide past the trim.
Hi Spencer, great video. I have looked at whole kits including doors in the past but it was becoming extremely expensive over here in the UK. You have kindly added the links below for the kit, but could i ask about the bottom guide as the kit shows the type you screw into the floor and not the frame which i prefer. I have a total opening of 4' 7" including frame, so looking at a pair of sliding doors.
Can the guide rail be mounted directly into the studs does it have to have a board under it if so what size board did you use it looks like a 1 x 4 x 8. Is it
As always very clear video and simple instructions have been enjoying yr RU-vid work for a couple years. Mucho grassias from 40 year carpenter in Arizona.
12:28 Nice vid :) the only problem I thought of through was if you have it 'flush ' like here at 12:28 how do you get to the handle from the inside of the bathroom to close it? should it not have to be out from the frame to expose the handle from inside the bathroom ?
Outstanding!! So many great tips here. I’m running into an issue that I wish I noticed before I went ahead and built my door and ordered the track etc. I went to install the header board and my wall has a bow to it. The ledger board will not sit flush. I assume the only way to deal with this is to use shims but curious if there’s another way I’m not thinking of. This isn’t something I planned on and out this project at a halt for the time being. Lol. Nothing is easy. Haha
Good job you broke it down very well step by step. I will be installing a barn door at my son and daughter in laws house and it’ll be the time I ever installed one. Being a wood worker for at least 60 years I will be building the door myself and it should be fun. Thank you👍
