Hey guys this really helped me out as my hack "roofers" bailed on me. I have 2 skylights that have the step flashing and the one question I have is does the bottom solid Tin flashing go on top of the shingles like you guys have in your video or do I put shingles over that solid piece on the bottom of the skylight? I really appreciate any advice as some hack roofers took advantage of my grandmother so now I'm trying to fix the mess
This is the best explanation by far from all videos. And not just this video all his roof videos i watched are better then anyone else. Thank you for doing this. You helped me a ton.
Thanks for the in-depth videos. I decided to put my roof on myself so it would be done right. I'm installing O.C. Duration and find you follow their guidelines to a T and with some nice added touches I must say. Definitely the best videos out there.
11:11 the areas where Marco nailed on that rain diverter, I would also seal them with ice and water. I would put ice and water to cover those nails and cover the upper edge of the diverter to prevent any water from going underneath the rain diverter to the chimney area
Hi, what about top of the flashings? Won’t water be able to make it in between the flashing and the chimney? I have a stucco chimney. What should I use to between the chimney and the top of the flashings to prevent water from entering?
3 nails on a step flashing? one of those nails are way too close to the wall as well which will cause a leak after a while I put 1 nail in the top left corner and a little bit of tar to sit the step flashing onto the shingle
My garage has a chimney that has a box built around it that goes through the roof and one side is attached to the gable side of my house. So, there are 3 sides that need to be protected. Would I use this same method for my chimney?
No slightly different. We would build a cricket and give a slight slope. Approach with caution, that’s a tricky detail. I don’t have a video on anything like that
I think I explain it in the video but maybe I am mistaken. If you use one long L flashing Water can go onto the shingles. When you use the flushing water roles back on top of the shingles.
When working with Chimney's the best practice is to not fasten it to the chimney and just fasten to the roof. The reason is that chimneys are independent from the roof. There is actually movement that takes place.
Usually the orders to put the chimney shingles are front apron , 2 sides of step shingles then the back higher slope of back apron. If my chimney the highest slope point between on the left corner of my back apron and on the left top of step flashing, and also the highest point of my chiney hits the hip, what do you suggest to put the flashing order? same way? Do you have any tips for this kind of shingles order to set up?
Honestly having a hard time picturing your exact situation. Every job presents a unique situation that sometimes need field fabrication. The concept remains the same. Water flows down, top flashing or shingle on top of the bottom one.
Someone told me this is a lazy way to do roofing and should not be done as it will fail much faster than tucking the flash in the Chimney. Will you elaborate on this technique in that regard. Thank you
We buy our flashing and actually all our materials from roofing suppliers. If you are in the US the 3 major ones are ABC, Beacon, SRS. Keep in mind the flashings and the names of flashing vary from region to region.
i really like the step flashing / .. ( i know that's what's missing on my roof.. and MY QUESTION is.. is there a way to fix that.. ( instead of that ( long L piece) .. ( with out taking off the (hardyboard) siding now? ... gez THANKS!! (cuz YEAH, if you are redoing the whole roof.. and taking up the siding and all.. 'it's easy to redo' at that point'.. but your throwing 20k into it... hahaha ( when it's a 20$ piece of flashing right.. lol .. idk.. ( no point in putting more 'tar or elasto- STO over it i guess... *shrug
Thats a tough one. there is a way to retrofit it, a little hard to explain without a video but I'll try. Essentially you cut the bottom 6" of siding without remove it. Now you have a 6" gap between your roof and siding. At that point your able to install step flashing as needed. Then install Zbar if your able to , if not just install a 1x or a hardie 1x and caulk it.
Great work. The roofer I hired did a less than satissfactory job around the Chimney. it leaked. When I contacted him, he said 'that chimney stye is difficut to work with.' I Replied, Then why did you not say that before taking on my roof replacement? No answer. Just a not good contractor.
So many things wrong on this video. Nails too close to the wall. Saddle area that top shingle should come over about 12 inches past the edge of the corner. Having to use caulk to seal an area that is that open will leak.
Terminology is confusing here. Saddle flashing is another name for cricket flashing. You installed flat head flashing on here, but kept calling it saddle.
So what happens 7-10 years from now when that caulk dries and shrinks 🤔 running the shingles flush at the top gives the water nothing to run off 🤔 the water also runs down the face and backside of the chimney 🤔 crickets are for guys that don't have a clue 🤔 my roof never leaked b4 you guys came 🤔 well you need a cricket 😂 if fix janky stuff like that all the time 😂 I bet you run the shingle flush at the top of the wall where it transfers to the valley and run cap/flashing and caulk and still can't figure out why it leaks
So a couple of quick points. Not sure why you would install a saddle flashing component WITHOUT a cricket, that’s a huge professional Nono and long term, not a good solution. Second, why on earth wouldn’t you GAF StormGuard, ice water barrier BEFORE any flashing installed. These steps are rudimentary and almost apprenticeship level steps! Overall, not a bad video, but certainly I wouldn’t pass this as an “expert” install.
1) We install crickets on chimneys wider then 30” 2) I’ve and water shield is optional and not required especially in areas that don’t have snow and ice damns. Any roofer should know this
