I'm having this done to my house in a couple weeks but the roofing company is using lomanco deck air. Still, this video is by far the best video i have seen detailing how these systems work and proper installation. Thank you!
My concern is that it could leak in cold weather with ice dams or snow build up ,the attic air is warmer than the outside and it'll melt any ice or snow blocking the intake vent and water will find a way inside the attic.
I noticed your starter strip offset from the shingle was not sufficient . I noticed a nail very close to the waterway of the shingle. Besides that, great video
I'm getting lost on the nailing pattern for the Chaulk line. It looks like you are just doing a standard 4-nail pattern. Is that correct, or is the first shingle nailed on the left end, halfway, 3/4 way and right end?
Great video! Can you install these on an existing roof? Specifically need to add intake vents on a cape cod home without eaves/soffits (after installing baffles and new insulation on interior).
You definitely can. Just keep in mind it is going to be pretty labor extensive. You'll need to remove the roofing approximately 4ft back from where you want the vents installed and properly tie into the existing shingles and underlayment. Make sure whoever you hire knows what they are doing and they'll be good to go.
My intake vent going across the back of my house roof (pointed to the sky) gets clogged with all kinds of tree and dirt bits. The mesh they put inside the product to stop bugs does not prevent this from happening. The product should be redesigned to put some sort of metal screen on the air intake vent so nothing can get caught in there. I am planning on going up there and removing all the clogged debris and put some sort of metal screen on the outside so that it does not keep happening. What could I really do now that my roof has a hole in it and this product is installed? In my paperwork my vent is called "VentSure". Not sure if this is the same product you are showing but it looks the same. My roof guy also did not leave a factory closed edge on the one side of my roof. I will be talking to them now that I watched this. Your team however looks like they know what they are doing!!!
Good question. I have no idea. I would recommend reading the manufacturer specification very carefully. My guess would be that you shouldn't install it where ice damns can form, but I am not sure.
What are your thoughts on the Inflow Vents that install at the eave? Installed at the eave, the top of the vent is shingled over and the vent draws air from the bottom of the vent, so less chance to get clogged.
I tried so hard to get 5 different roofers to use this product but they gaslighted me over and over again saying it didn't exist. In the end they turned my house into swiss cheese. The idiots even cut a 32 inch hole for a gable vent directly into my master bathroom and left it that way for two years. After 5 roof replacements in 7 years and 50k in damages due to improper installation I've lost all faith in all roofing companies in Missouri and I had to train my wife to do roofing with me. Seriously, are 99.999% of roofers in Missouri functionally literate?
Just today a neighbor of mine had a roof done and they used these vents. Thats why Im researching them since I own a cad cod home. As per your comment ,they were all mexican decent doing the roofing. Im in Pa. Were your workers non english speaking? My neighbors roof looks good though, but my thought is that those vents would get clogged the same as gutter guards do. The vent holes on these should be, imo, in the front surface, not the top. Whats so hard about making them that way just for higher up installations? These appear to be just good down at the gutter. But ice damming might be a problem there!?? SO, just maybe these are best for homes , used at the gutter, in the non freezing zones???
They were all Americans. I needed these vents due to partially vaulted ceilings that had insulation that would block air flow from normal soffit vents. But they claimed air could pass through tightly packed insulation, which it couldn't, and my attic filled up with ice in the winter due to not enough intake. In Missouri it appears most roofers are functionally literate. I had 3 roof replacements in 5 years and every single company failed to install anything properly to manufacturer specifications if even putting down underlayment at all. One roofing company put the solar powered skylight blinds back on upside down so the solar panels were facing inside the house. I use to do roofing as a kid and got so frustrated with terrible roofers in Kansas City Missouri, I ended up teaching my wife how to do roofing when I built a new shed so she can help out from now on. @@terrythomas790
@@paulnevins It sounds like you need to have baffles installed to keep the airflow above the insulation and close to the roof deck for it to get to the ridge vent better. The big box stores sell flimsy ones so SmartBaffles or a brand that makes thicker ones would be better. My mom lives in the KC metro, but she hasn't had to have her roof replaced yet. I'll have to help her vet companies when it comes time to do so.
The filter on the back of the vent reduces airflow by 50% WHEN NEW. Over time, just like the filter on your furnace, it will become clogged and reduce airflow even further. Using the manufacturers NFA of 9 square inches is incorrect at the start, being closer to 6 square inches, and over the life of the roof the NFA will decrease to likely around 2 square inches per foot, resulting in a severely under-ventilated roof. I suggest watching this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vw_yoQIPymI.html&ab_channel=HomesteadRoofing%2CInc
Thanks for the video link. It confirms my belief that ridge vents perform poorly compared to attic fans or turbine ventilators. Just have to ensure there is sufficient supply air coming into the attic so that it's not getting pulled from the living space.
Here is the manufacturer spec, dcpd6wotaa0mb.cloudfront.net/mdms/dms/Roofing/10018103/10018103-VentSure-InFlow-Vent-Installation-Instructions.pdf?v=1557734054000
Well by the looks of it those nails you used from the manufacturer bounced and I would rather have used screws looks like a wind storm will raised those air vents off my roof tell Marco he should know better! Looks like you guys do shitty work I would fire you guys on the spot. Saw that video where you didn’t even put tar underneath the shingle over the top of the flashing at the top the wind tear off those shingles on a windy day lol I have seen enough.
Lower on the roof just above the gutter to blend in would look much better and not stick out like your Owens corning intake vent. Don't be a cheaper and use wider ice and water shield when adding the intake vents instead of the minimum width. I think 5 nails per shingle is needed unless serve pitch then 6 nails per shingle instead of bare minimum the manufacturer recommends of 4 nails.@@RoofRepairSpecialist
