How to Install Coilovers on a Mini Cooper 

Heck yeah Joe!! That's epic 👏 happy to hear that

I did. Never tried something like a strut swap. Snapped pinch bolt,almost pushed the car off a cliff. Had to drill. Every bolt on this car is seized. Total nightmare

Not a problem 😊

milanmastracci what do you think about the Mookeeh MK 1 lower Control Arms and the mookeeh Mk1 struts +coilover kit

?

Its gonna be so much fun lol

So it all depends how much you lower the car. If you keep it close to the stock ride height, you won't need adjustable arms. If you plan on dropping it quite a bit, the car with naturally camber in (negative camber), so you will need adjustable control arms to correct that, otherwise you will get uneven tire wear. Typically a safe go-to is about 1.5" lower than stock

milanmastracci - I'm adding adjustable control arms to the mix, along with camber links. I do want it dropped about 1.5-2.0 inches, so I'll definitely need to adjust the camber. Thank you sir! Much appreciated!

If you're getting a vibration, you should raise your vehicle a tad as that is typically a problem with the half shafts and the angle in which they are positioned.

I am having vibration issues now : :/ 2005 mcs with back coils

Ahsan Tahir Can't go wrong with Bilstein.

They're JCW 4 piston calipers

It is completely dependant on wheel specs. On these BBS wheels, I was using 25mm spacers. On the current wheels on my MINI, I don't have any spacers.

Disconnect the sway bar and try it again 👍

@@milanmastracci I disconnected the end links from the strut and from the sway bar.

No you do not. I need them, however to make the wheels flush, you may need them.

Yes I still have them. Send me an email at milanmastracci@gmail.com

BR. I might upgrade them down the road

Holy... that thing is about to fall apart.

Oh I know lol I have one ordered and will be doing a video about it :)

Cj Pumped Addict dampening

These were 17x7+42, but I switched up my wheel and tire setup to something a bit beefier :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_fWQ194oE-s.html

The torque settings for what? You mean the adjustment knob for the rebound?

No in the video you say to look up the factory settings when doing the bolts for the coilovers I figured they should just be done with your wrench as tight as u can . I didn't know if you actually torqued them all around

The assembly nuts and bolts

I would say so! Yes 👍

Oot

GTiR23 more like "oat"

RazoE being from Cali it bugs me lmao

These: amzn.to/2oktABg They're the same coils as my car, but meant for the countryman. Fully adjustable, great coils, and reliable!!

Thanks will do! Love the videos and GO LEAFS!!

You'll see :)

milanmastracci I just started following ur ig check out my super stock accord lol! @slowmaticc

Those are BBS RK wheels. 17x7

Yes :)

Those are technically camber arms. They just look different on different cars. Still replacing the control arms I believe.

What kind od question is that? Ista a video on the mini.

I'll get around to that :) But its only the subframe so its not a huge deal

milanmastracci you should do a subframe rust removal video. I gotta do my subframes this summer.

You've been waiting? Cuz I haven't right..? lol I think they're delivered, just gotta go pick them up in FreedomLand

Where did you get the wide flares?

Which? They all seem to work for me..

milanmastracci they do now...i swear they didn't the other night..thanks

Ooooot ;)

Make it handle better?

LOL, don't fool yourself and definitely your viewers like that! You are doing this only for the looks. If you think this will improve handling you are ignorant and should do some research. The geometry of the entire suspension is set up to work at the stock ride height, and you can be sure a Works is already tuned towards handling. If anything, lowering the suspension combined with changing the scrub radius will ruin the dynamic camber and caster, bump steer, steering feel and tracking, no matter how good the static alignment is matching the original. This also applies to the rear as multilink suspensions are usually tuned to have some passive dynamic steering, changing the base angles and spring stiffness changes the amount of passive steering effect, no matter how hard you compensate the static alignment by using adjustable arms. Real race cars have either longer suspension arms or totally different suspension mounting points to widen the track, not wheel spacers. Real race cars lower the body to the road by redesigning the entire suspension as a whole compared to the road going versions, often even relocating the steering rack and changing the location where the links bolt to the hub assembly, using different suspension arms mounted to completely different subframes... not by slapping on shorter/adjustable strut assemblies. The only realistic upgrades an individual can do suspension wise is replacing suspension arms and wheels by lighter versions with the same specs, fit stiffer bushings and fit better shocks. Even a very subtle fixed lowering kit and stiffer stabiliser bars are already changing the dynamics enough to possibly ruin them.

LOL, don't fool yourself and definitely your viewers like that! You are doing this only for the looks. If you think this will improve handling you are ignorant and should do some research. The geometry of the entire suspension is set up to work at the stock ride height, and you can be sure a Works is already tuned towards handling. If anything, lowering the suspension combined with changing the scrub radius will ruin the dynamic camber and caster, bump steer, steering feel and tracking, no matter how good the static alignment is matching the original. This also applies to the rear as multilink suspensions are usually tuned to have some passive dynamic steering, changing the base angles and spring stiffness changes the amount of passive steering effect, no matter how hard you compensate the static alignment by using adjustable arms. Real race cars have either longer suspension arms or totally different suspension mounting points to widen the track, not wheel spacers. Real race cars lower the body to the road by redesigning the entire suspension as a whole compared to the road going versions, often even relocating the steering rack and changing the location where the links bolt to the hub assembly, using different suspension arms mounted to completely different subframes... not by slapping on shorter/adjustable strut assemblies. The only realistic upgrades an individual can do suspension wise is replacing suspension arms and wheels by lighter versions with the same specs, fit stiffer bushings and fit better shocks. Even a very subtle fixed lowering kit and stiffer stabiliser bars are already changing the dynamics enough to possibly ruin them.

Candisa it's just like, who really throws on a wide body kit and strips the car to make it lighter? what do you want this to be? 😂 a track car? a race car?

BC coilovers?