I put these on my American Professional Tele, and MIM Standard Strat. Great upgrade, they have 18:1 gear ratio, (the regular tuners are 14:1)they minimize friction, and they make string changing super quick and easy.
Just replaced the tuners in my MIM strat with the lockers. What a difference. Should have done it two years ago when I bought the guitar. Thanks Landon!!!👍👍
If you use the whammy bar, you should try a SuperVee Mag-Lok too. I have one on my MIMStand, and it really works, it stops the bridge from rising unevenly during finger bends, which is 99% of what throws the stock system out of tune. It’s like having a convertible hard tail - the bridge is stabilized when the whammy’s not in play, but you can still use the bar up, or down, whenever you want.
is your MIM a player series strat? if yes i'd like yo know if you had to pierce anything or if the holes are already here for adapting the blocking tuners?
@@z00mist87little late to the reply but the player series IS the made in Mexico one. Player stands for just us regular plebeians and to answer your question yes. The fender locking tuners should be compatible with all player strats as far as I’m aware. Honestly most fender parts are compatible with each other the only thing I’d worry about dimensions is the nut.
Doesn't that Tele sound great through the Marshall DSL20HR? Timestamps: 0:00 - the guitar 0:15 - the tuners 0:25 - what we're doing 1:32 - the tools 1:47 - the installation 7:00 - sounds samples
Hi landon, i have one question regarding locking tuners: can you put them on a squier strat? I say this because I've seen some discussions over the diameter of the headstock holes matters when installing ao not sure about that, thanks im advance.
I have noticed in forums that people make snarky comments when folks ask about locking tuners. I put them on the guitars i use the most because mild arthritis make conventional stringing very difficult for me.
Then you will wind the string when tuning it up to standard tuning which decreases tuning stability since there is more slop (the string can move and jump around more), and that kind of eliminates the purpose of locking tuners.
You were lucky. I’m doing the same to my MIK Tele but find the small pegs on the bottom of the new tuners don’t align with the holes existing for the old ones. Filled the old holes and am preparing to redrill them for the pin lock tuners. Wish me luck as I lack confidence using an electric hand drill on the guitar neck. I love pinlock tuners, and have them on 3 other guitars.
so , I just did this upgrade to my 2001 squire standard strat. The two alignment holes for the tuners I removed were off from the fender locking tuners. not so easy. they were so close that the drill wanted to slide into the original hole. With a little work I got it. Idealy I should have plugged the original holes and then redrilled, but nah that would have been more work :)
I’m in the process of changing all my guitars to locking Tuners. They are so worth it. My problem is some tuner holes need reaming and I feel like I’m doing heart surgery. “Oh Me nerves” as they say in Dublin 😂
Something you may never notice, but came to bite me, is after 5 strokes, I have lost the dexterity in my hands and fingers, that I didn't even know were required to change my guitar strings! Meaning that I am looking forward to saving up for getting some locking tuners! If they DO help? I will be greatly pleased!
You can most certainly go down to drop D my dudes. You can get any tuning out of them. They work just like regular tuners besides locking the string in place. Sorry this guy doesn’t care about being knowledgeable about the turners he’s installing.
If I were planning to downtune as low as Drop C on strings I was going to stretch in E tuning, I might leave a tiny bit more slack than the guy in the video does before locking the tuners, to have that little bit of extra string to unravel when downtuning super far. With locking tuners you don't need to worry about grip nearly as much, but I imagine you wouldn't want your string hanging on by just the lock.
@@DimKAt21 I haven't installed 'em yet because I'd put a new set of strings on right before I bought the replacement tuners and I was being a tad lazy, but it looks like the locating pins are identical to the factory tuners on my Tribute Series ASAT Classic. I'll try to swap them out later today or tomorrow at the latest, and I'll drop you another reply to let you know how the staggered posts on the locking Fender set work out in practice. Theoretically they might make the string tree unnecessary, but unless it causes a problem I plan to leave it installed to avoid having to do something about the screw hole. My ASAT is either a 2020 or 2021 model, BTW, and I believe G&L have been using the same tuners for like a decade or more, so if yours is relatively recent, your results should match mine. 😁👍
Landon, nice video. When your are going to do the restring job, Fender recommends to set up the post holes according to a "wall clock" begining with hi E at 12 o'clock then B at 1 o'clock, and so on until low E at 5 o'clock. Maybe this may help...
I have an 07 MIA that came with those locking tuners and nice Bridge Saddles, but it was not a Strat Plus. Not exactly sure what model it is unless the previous owner installed them afterwards. But my Pro II has normal tuning machines and standard Saddles. I will be upgrading both of them. Greetings from Canada 🇨🇦. Your accent sounds like my fellow Canadian. Great video.
Did installing these improving your tuning stability? This is the main reason I am considering upgrading mine to these locking tuners on my player strat. Currently the OEM tuners are all of equal length and I find that the angle of my g string over the nut is a bit too low. What do you guys think?
Locking tuners are worth, no winding, holds tune, I use whammy bar on a strat I have locking tuners on and it holds tune almost as good as a Jackson I have with floyd rose, however I do keep the stock low e tuner on so I can drop to d
There's actually 4 different post lengths. The back of the tuners are labeled 1(7), 2(7), 3(7) and 4(7). I have no idea which post goes where because it's not intuitive. One would think 1(7) and 2(7) would be similar heights but they are not. Anyone able to point to a video that explains this?
Your mother said if I like, subscribe, and comment the second visit is free.. so here I am. Just kidding, ill take this joke down if it's offensive. I love you man. My wife hits me so you can make fun of me for that.
No. They're close enough to the nut to have sufficient break angle. The reason the higher strings need the short posts is because the strings have a straighter angle, since they're farther from the nut.
@@landonbailey thanks I have a 2020 Mexican so these machine heads should fit with no need to drill holes. Your video is really helpful. I think I’ll order some.
wait... so is it true that you can't down tune with the locking tuners? Now I'm just staring at these tuners wondering whether I should use them or not.
Unless you are pulling on the string tight enough to ring an E before locking, you should be able to tune down. Worst case, leave yourself a little extra slack on the strings you need to drop.
I've installed those on my MIM strat and now I have a problem with G string ringing above the nut. String break angle is not enough, though G string tuner is staggered... And I don't want to install second string tree and add point of friction. Is there a proper way to fix it without any ugly damping foams etc. ?
I can't tell from photos on Fender's site. I believe your current tuners are Fstyle with screws. if so, you'll probably see the screw holes if you switch to locking tuners. Personally I wouldn't do the upgrade from those tuners
@@landonbailey Thanks for your input. I was curious because I'm thinking of getting the black locking tuners to go with the white/black design. So it's mainly for aesthetic purposes even though I like them for the practical side as well.
Hi, I just installed them on my Squier Bullet Mustang. At least for mine, I had to fill the original peg holes and redrill out new ones. Not too hard if you have a nice drill and a bit. It took me about an hour to fill, drill and attach the tuners to the neck.
Even though they're locking, you still should set a luthier's knot around each peg to ensure that the strings don't slip. Another tip is to use purple loctite on the nut so that you can ensure that they stay tight without putting too much tension. Thanks for the coverage, though!
I am trying to put in these locking tuners on my knockoff strat but the tuning holes are too small, does anyone know what sizes I need to drill to? I can't seem to find anything on any websites
I haven't tried but I would assume no. Typically Squier models don't follow the same specs as Usa and Mim guitars. They can probably work but may require some modding of the headstock holes.
@@landonbailey Cheers mate...got confused from others saying string tree was not needed but the tree is there and if everything works for you useing I will order a set and keep the tree in place and use too. Best, Mik
Just said two different lengths followed by 2 short and 2 long. Is that a bass telecaster? Go ahead, ask me about my assholebilities. I'll fill you in after a tangent and 22 fucking ads