I just did a ball joint in a silverado. The hub ring was plastic big ol 35s. I tightened the wheel down. It fell off 2 days later. It wasn't seated properly. The hub ring got pinched between the wheel and didn't seat it properly. Good news I kept my job. I'm sure that's as long as nothing else happens. But beware of worn hub rings they will cost you a fortune
Great information. Thanks!. Quick question: I have a set of wheels (rims) with a bore of 62mm and my car's hub is 54.1mm. I haven't been able to find this combination. The closer one available is 63 to 54.1 Can I insert the 63 into the 62 bore?. Thanks
That seems like an uncommon size there, are you putting an OE wheel from another car onto yours? A possible solution could be to have a machine shop make either a plastic or metal one for you at that sizing.
Do you have to know the wheel or just the vehicle to get the proper ring? My truck has them already but they don’t have any tension tabs and they fall off everytime I try to put the wheel on especially with my 100 pound wheel and tire combo.
Are they metal? If they're metal, they most likely won't have retention tabs of any kind. If the hub-ring fits perfectly in the wheel's centerbore with no play, you should be okay. If you're having an issue where you're putting the hub-ring into the wheel first, then mounting it to your vehicle's hub - try it the reverse way. Try putting the hub ring on the vehicle's hub, then mounting your wheel. Ideally though, yes - for a properly sized hub ring, you need to know your vehicle's hub size, and your wheel's centerbore size.
I have an 09 Jetta. With stock wheels and tires it drove perfectly. When I put after market MSW 16X7 wheels, the car starts shaking at. 65. Does it need hub centric rings? I also noticed the oem lug nuts are ball seat and I’m going to change them for Conical seat. The shaking doesn’t come from the steering wheel, it comes from the ground.
Most likely it's hub-rings. When you change your wheels, you need to make sure you get a hub-ring because the centerbore difference between your OE and Aftermarket wheels. They will not be the same, which means that when the wheel is mounted, it won't be mounted hub-centrically. Check out our website for the hub-ring you need. 09 Jetta has a 57.10mm hub-size so you need a hub-ring to match that and your centerbore sizing of the wheel. Also, as far as the lug nuts, you'll want to confirm the seat type of the wheel and get the appropriate lug nuts.
A good tip for putting wheels back on the car is to use a speed wrench for initial lug installation. It cuts down on time and is perfect to ‘snug’ the lugs before torquing to spec.
Should I use hub rings for my aftermarket replica rims? They say I don’t need them but I get vibration in the seats no matter how many times I get them balanced.
Who is "they"? Anytime you're using aftermarket wheels, you should be using hub-centric rings. Simply put, OE (stock) wheels are sized specifically for your vehicle. Aftermarket wheels will generally feature a different centerbore size than your OEM wheels, so because of this size difference, it creates a possibility for the wheel to be aligned imperfectly. A hub ring fills that gap and ensures that when you mount your wheel, it's perfectly center on your vehicle's hub. To find your hub ring size, look up the Hub Size of your vehicle, and the Centerbore size of your aftermarket wheel. Then you'll find a hub-ring to match those two sizes. Let us know if you need any help, we've made a few more videos on Hub Rings on our channel.
@@konigwheels The guy at Texas tires… I don’t believe them because they can’t give me a good reason why I’m getting vibration after balancing the wheels multiple times
Either would do the same thing. I would suggest Plastic. With all of the dirt and environment that a vehicle used offroad will see, it will minimize the chances of any that causing issues with the wheel being hard to remove and getting stuck to the hub.
i know this is an oldish video, and you may not see this, but i'll give it a shot. my stock bolt pattern is 5x115 (chevy). i have two sets of 5x114.3 wheels i used as winter wheels. question is, will they fit ? do i use hub-centric rings ? or just get adapters. 🤔
Hi, I have hubcentric spacers on the car, and my ring fits the hub of the spacer perfectly snugged and when I put the ring on the wheel it fits there as well, but when I try to put the wheel on with the ring hub it doesn't go on 🤔
Hi Alex! We'd like to try and assist you here. Are you using a plastic hub-ring? Can you ensure that both your hub size and centerbore size match up perfectly with the hub-ring that you purchased? You could be running into a situation where the hub-ring may be able to fit both the hub and the centerbore of your wheel, however because the sizing might be slightly off, when trying to mount your wheel, you could face issues.
So I have the esr cs8’s and the bore hub for the wheel is 72.60. The inner diameter is 56.1 (for all wrx’s). The hub centric rings I got are 56.1 to 73mm. Maybe I didn’t put it on right or I have to find one with exactly 72.60 but the rings fit right in the wheel bore. Any suggestions?
Hi Brandan, so I would suggest ordering the correct hub ring (72.6mm to 56.1). It the easy way to know the wheel is hub-centric. With that said, you can also look for rings that are 72.56 to 56.1. 72.6 / 72.56 are usually interchangeable as they are both intended for a bmw or now a CTR.
Pry them off with a flathead screwdriver. Sometimes after prolonged use, hub-rings can see a buildup of debris and stuff that can cake the hub-ring onto the hub of the vehicle. Just pry it off and you'll be good to go.
Question, i’m very new to wheels and stuff. I ordered wheels they’re 18x8.5 +35 CB 73.1 but my original wheels are 17 inch with +40 offset and CB 60.1.. question is can I run 5mm spacers along with the center hub ring for the CB difference?
Hay mate, im in the same boat i ordered the same size rims as you but not upgrading the size. Im only here because i've never heard of these parts. Just caution you to take your car to a mechanic afterwards as upgrading to a bigger wheel will impact your speedo apparently.
@@shanerennie4044 I went from 214/45/17 to 225/40/18. Only slight diameter difference and the speedo is unaffected. It will depends on the tire thickness.
it looks like the centerbore size on that is 60.1mm. So you'd need an inner diameter of 60.1mm and the outer would match the centerbore size of your wheel.
So I should not be scared that my wheel will fall off because I have 2 inch spacers which hub size is bigger than my vehicle’s. I had them tightened and retightened in the star fashion?
@@markied2873 the question was asked without any details given about the hub bore sizes of vehicle or the wheel spacers, also the simplest course of action would be to purchase the right size spacers that wouldn't need hubcentric rings
Question: I brought universal 20in Mazzi 351 hype rims for my 2015 Genesis G80 Rwd. They came with plastic hub rings 72-67 which fits my car but still leaves a gap/movement. What do you recommend?
Hey Konig, I have a question about wheel hub temperatures. What kind of temperatures do the wheel hubs experience? I was curious if a high temp Anti-Seize would be needed which led to quick search & the answer appears to be no (*). However that made me curious as to what temperatures the wheel hub or mounting flange actually experiences? Something I haven't ever really thought about although I do know that the wheel can act like a heat sink to dissipate said heat. Any who, I digress & apologize for the lengthy comment. Sincerely, randomly curious, & a Big fan of your products. Cheers (* Permatex Brand Aluminum Anti-Seize 133k / Part #80078 is rated up 1,600° F)
P.s. what kind of witch craft are you practicing to have avoided getting any of that Anti-Seize on your black T-shirt?!?! I would have ruined such a nice shirt simply walking past a jar of Anti-Seize! so kudos to you my good man. 👏
Temperatures, for race cars (on track), can greatly depend on bunch of factors. However that anti seize should be just fine. Most of that heat is going to dissipate fairly quick once the brakes are not under constant abuse. Not to mention that the wheel will act like a heatsink and aide in cooling the rotor hat / mounting pad. Thanks for your comment Joshua!!!
Hi, some people suggest that there should be a slightly free play of the ring even after you torque to spec. Is that true? Mine seem to have a little play, which mean you can move the ring around with your finger.
Hello. It makes sense that you can't find a ring to go from 67.1 to 66.1. It's extremely uncommon and most likely you're trying to adapt some oe wheels from a different manufacturer to a Nissan or something. But we want to help you out. So let's start by answering your question. Yes it makes a difference, hub centricity is black and white, it is either hub centric or it's not. Being close doesn't really count. Now with that said, I did a quick search on ebay. I searched "67.1 to 66.1 hub ring" and I did see an option. Give it a shot, hope it helps. If that doesn't work and you are using conical seat lug nuts on a conical seat wheel, the lugs can help center it and get it CLOSE. Just make sure you hand tighten the first 2 lugs equally and then install the rest of them by hand moving in that star pattern (5 lug), to get the wheel to seat as evenly as possible before tightening. Hopefully that gets you close enough that you don't feel vibration. good luck!
Now as to the choices I HAVE at 0:45 I have FOUR (at least).. You stated TWO, plastic & Aluminium I calll BS on that as I have FOUR.. Plastic, Aluminium, NONE (or) The 4th choice is to REBORE the smaller rim center, to fit the larger hub.!!!! Meaning that the rim will now be within OEM specs and NO ring is able to be fitted.
Now, rewinding back to 0:18 And we see you pull the wheel off. Yes, I see that, an ALUMINIUM RIM on an OEM rim (well the wheel that WAS on the car) is being pulled OFF here: But see at 1:20 ? As that (to me) simply exposes the HUB itself. And is that NOT STEEL? Anyway's THE FIRST THING I WOULD DO, isn't any of the one's you started with I'd start looking (long before the 0:00 of this video, to what size PCD & Center Bore, that the NEW (next) RIM IS.. As: That will determine everything else.. NEVER start by deciding on PLASTIC or ALUMINIUM rings.. Always start with the new rim / wheel sizes and METAL - before deciding on what size and type of ring. Why? Well hello, it's no use putting on a BLUE plastic ring that is four sizes too big (and any size too small won't fit) If the next rim is say STEEL, and is WAY TOO SMALL for this bub's center size.. Oops, I wasn't going to mention that until the end of the video - was I? Ah well cats out of the bag now isn't she..? Ok smart mechanic you. HOW would you put a new rim on, ? Would ou start by inserting a PLASTIC ring, of the correct hub size, and (o you didn't measure the rim bore? Never mind - it's plastic so should work it's way to size.. Now, say the BORE of the hub is ? 60mm OK so far? And the bore of the new rim is 61mm Then a 1mm ring is called for isn't it. BUT? If the new rim is say 58mm What ring do YOU put on there now? The answer is obvious. A centric RING is not required. What is required, is for you to eat your words and start again. The very first thing to do, is measure he new rim bore and remember - if it is SMALLER than the hub bore, it will NOT fit, period. First you will need to get a LATHE job done to bore OUT that difference, until the rim is MORE than a bearing tight press fit. It has to be a sloppy fit, to enable a human to pull it off the hub, even if it is WARM or COLD. Thus the rim will naturally have - about 0.5mm - 1mm clearance If the new rim has a 1mm difference (larger than OEM hub) then it's not too far off perfect. If it's a HALF a thousandth of an inch - (or even your feeler gauge's minimum size) IT WILL NOT FIT. Now, which ring would you use? It sure as won't be the PLASTIC one, between a METAL HUB & A METAL (steelie) RIM. As even after you grind the bore OUT to fit the hib, you still need steel to steel, not plastic and absolutely not aluminium either. All you need is to lift the wheel off the ground, and ROTATE the wheel as you PATTERN TORQUE the nuts - onto the studs, to allow the tapers to "align" the rims to the hub's bore. ONLY AFTER you finish, do you check for slop. If you had an engineer grind it out on a lathe, it should be exactly within OEM tolerance. HOWEVER, not every hub is perfectly drilled for the studs, nor is a steel wheel rim perfectly bored, in either the PCD's OR the center bore. Everywhere a slip fit (without it physically binding) means a small amount of slop HAS to be there. Now, where were you, oh there you are, tying to use a bearing puller, to getthat small Hub Centric wheel - off the larger than you thought, inner ring shoulder.
Makes no sense to me. If I have 5 lug nuts that seat into a machined conical base on the wheel, once torqued down the wheel can only go in one position. The studs are through the holes, the nuts are on the studs and the nuts are torqued & seated into the wheel. So how the hell is it out of position? Don't ask me, but I just put Ferrada CM1's on my car without rings and It vibrates and wobbles like crazy from 45 to 60.
Once installed, they serve no purpose. The ONLY purpose they serve is to perfectly center your wheel upon installation. I wouldn't trust my eye sight with that.
Well thats great and all but i boyght a set of konig wheels and you dont offer aluminum hub rings for my vehicle which kind of pisses me off cuz I'd rather have hub rings from the company that made the wheels but you only offer plastic so that simple oversight. I will never buy another set of comics wheels ever again. Don't get me wrong. I like your wheels but I'm not going to deal with a company that's going to treat other sizes like a redheaded stepchild
Firstly... you don't need aluminum hub rings unless you're racing your vehicle on track. Plastic hub-rings are recommended for 99% of applications. Secondly, what car are you trying to fit? Like any wheel company, it's impossible to offer sizing for ALL cars out there, as bolt patterns, sizing, centerbore and hub sizing vary from vehicle to vehicle.
@@konigwheels well firstly I don't give a shit if I need them or not. I think it kind of missing the point of what the consumer wants versus what you think we need. This ain't about what you think. This is about what we want. You're not going to provide it. I'll find somebody who will and go with their product. I think you're kind of missing the point here. You don't fucking like it and I'm fuck. I'll give you my goddamn address
Imagine being so entitled that you get pissed off because a company don’t make something you want to fit the vehicle you have. There are so many different car companies out there making so many different sizes of everything on the vehicle it’s damn near impossible for any company to make and stock parts for them all. Not to mention in the video it is clearly stated more than once the plastic ones are recommended for most cases. What you should look at is this company suggest you buy the much cheaper plastic rings over the expensive aluminum ones unless your application requires the heat resistance!!! That tells me the company is more concerned about its customers than padding the bottom line.
Hi I got a 2008 vw Jetta how do I get the the center hub size ?? … on the rims is any info stamped on it to know the size of the rim hub size ?? Tried ur link didn’t get me anywhere ???
Thank you for the video. My question is, do you install the hub rings on the wheels first and then mount the wheels onto the hub, or install the hub rings on the hub and mount the wheel over it. Thank you
Hi! Truth is it does not really matter. I’ve always found it easier to install the ring in the wheel first if it’s one that has tension tabs or if it fits snugly into the wheel. If not place it on the hub first.
Can you use a centric ring and a hub centric spacer together??? For example I have a wheel that’s 73.00. The cars hub bore is 66.1 so the hubcentric 5mm spacer is 66.1 as well. Leaving a 6.9 gap. The purpose of the spacer is to clear my calipers since they’re BARELY grazing. Anyway, would it be ok to apply both the centric ring and spacer in order to make it hubcentric?? If not what would you recommend me doing. Any advice help or recommendations are much appreciated thanks in advance! P.s I have a 2014 Infiniti Q60 S Coupe & my wheels are 19x9.5 +22 squared.
Yeah. I ended up getting a 5mm spacer and the hub centric ring. You can use both together. The ring goes into the wheels hub and the spacer sits flat against it. I eventually ended up getting hub centric spacers (aluminum ring attached to aluminum spacer 1 piece all together). Hope this helps.
It's not uncommon to see, however with tools like that you're not able to ensure proper torque specs when you tighten down your lug nut/bolt - leaving a risk of over-torquing. If possible, we always recommend using a torque wrench and referring to your OE recommended torque settings.
If it says "X mm to Y mm" X is the width of the hub on your car and Y is the width of your aftermarket wheel. The purpose of the hub ring is to fill that tiny gap in the measurements. With your OEM wheels, there is no gap because it was made to fit your car from the factory.
Another use case for aluminum hub rings: because you guys only make ones for 73mm wheel bores. Please make some for 75mm. I like your plastic snap fit ones but I cant use them since my wheel bores are 75mm.
should you use metal hub rings with studs ? i converted to studs and my wheels are vibrating. but the so called lugcentric lungs dont center my wheels.
Thank goodness for this video. Was so lost looking for rings for my first ever set of aftermarket wheels. Do you guys suggest plastic hub centric rings if I only track my car 1-2 times per year, but I drive spirited daily?
Late to reply, but just do metal because you don’t want to worry about it again or have to deal with plastic flexing or hollow plastic like I’ve seen in other videos.
Hi i just bought some ordens for my mercades e320 2004 i know my car bore size 66.6mm but idk the size the ordens all i know that its 5x114.3 20x9.5 and 20x10.5.
I have a 14 Infiniti Q60 S Coupe 3.7l AWD. I just purchased a set of wheels 19x9.5 +22. I was test fitting them and they didn’t clear my brake calipers. I was advised to get 5mm hub centric spacers.. but don’t know where to start. Help please 🙏🏽 Thanks in advance!
spacers are just spacers. they are not hub centric. If your wheel bores are the same size as your hub bore, you dont need hub centric rings. just the 5mm spacer
No problem, glad we could help! We've done a bunch of videos on hub-rings. To answer your question, Hub Rings are suitable for ANY season, including winter Hub-Rings do not bear any weight whatsoever, they simply assist in centering your wheels while mounting. Once your wheels are mounted, the hub-ring has already served its purpose. Just make sure, if you're using metal hub-rings - it's a good idea to apply a bit of anti-seize to the hub rings before mounting to avoid them sticking to your wheels.
Had a flat on new car w/ aftermarket wheels and didn't realize there were rear plastic 3 inch plastic hub rings . Attempted to put spare on and of course it did not fit as it was 2 1/2 . I could not get the hub ring off as it is stuck to the hub. Any tips to remove it . Thanks
@@konigwheels , yea , I don't know it it was glued on or what couldn't get it off . Had to tow the car. It's yellow and very strong I didn't want to damage anything . I guess ultimately it could be pried or cut off . What's your thoughts . Thanks
@@Sayres434 Nothing to worry about here, they're probably just stuck on there from any corrosion or debris on the hub surface when mounting. You'll be safe to take a flathead screwdriver and just pry em off.
Great info! We’ve had a 2011 VW GTI for over a year now … and today was the first time a shop was said the car needs hub rings (the car is running Koenig wheels).
Good to hear! Anytime you switch to ANY aftermarket wheel, you always want to make sure you look at your Centerbore Sizing and your Vehicle's Hub Sizing. Most times, aftermarket wheels will not match your vehicle's hub size - this is where a hub-centric ring comes into play.
Hi, I need help ordering the correct hub rings. I have rims that are 5x120 20x10 72.6mm and my hub bore is 5x114.3 63.4mm. What size should I purchase?
Look for "hub bore" size. The size you need is your vehicle's hub bore (Inner Diameter or ID) and the wheel's hub bore (Outer diameter or OD). For example, my Honda's hub bore is 56.1 mm and the wheel I bought has a 73.1 bore. So I bought 56.1 to 73.1 hubcentric rings.
So if I'm looking at getting wheel spacers and my Civic has 56.1 hub bore and the hubcentric spacer is 57.1-72.5 and the wheel is 73.1 am I getting two different sizes of rings? One for hub to spacer and the other from spacer to wheel?
I had a similar issue for a 20" rims/wheels I had to get 2 hub centric plastic rims. When removing the wheels for a tire change, one ring was stuck on the hub, the other was in the wheel bore. Note not a lot of chain tire shops will insall , mount & balance with this set up.
@@konigwheels Hence the cone shape on the lug nuts to hold the wheel tight to the hub, whilst preventing any possibility of the wheel moving off the lugs !
