Need to use a #3 philips, need aluminum/rubber washers (aluminum washer on the top, rubber on the bottom they will save you a lot of headache), and only use the the lowest setting on that impact driver. You need to even tefore that or you can pull the tampin/anchor and losen it and pull out a ton of stucco. Credit: I have been installing all types of hurricane shutters professionally for three years. Also, after opening them after the storm, when the bolts are out and the shutters are off, make sure to use a light lubricant/grease on the threads of the bolts before putting them back in to sit for another year. Will make closing up much easier and make you anchors and bolts last for a decade.
Honestly that's a good point because there's all sorts of electrical issues. Surges, not as much lightning as you'd think. Especially compared to our normal afternoon thunderstorm (they caused more damage for me this year than the canes). Generators accidentally back feeding power and flooding are even more reasons electrical fires could happen. Definitely something interesting to think about with these shutters.
You don’t have to worry about a fire because after you put up the panels and you block every exit then that means you can’t get into the house. So you’ll never be in the house for the hurricane. Most people who put up hurricane shutters usually just walk into the door.
I watched the hurricane through my windows without shutters because most newer windows are impact rated to meet Miami Dade ratings. No need for all that extra work. Watched Irma through them too.
Yes, the best way to install them is when the shutters are shorter so they are more impact resistant. These shutters are not "050" so they have to be installed with certain span contraints to keep their raiting. They are older aluminum shutters. You see them a lot in these types on small communities.
