How To Install Insulation Stops [Baffles] 

Glad you like them!

And if you want even more info on attic insulation check my channel for more how to videos

Welcome aboard!

Just found this guy, have to watch plenty of videos to see what I think - seams okay for the moment. But you can never have enough good information. Also Check out Matt Risinger channel - he really uses the top of the line and keeps up on all new technology. He is honest on his mistakes - working on his own home but builds and remodels. Very high on Rockwool, uses in his own home for insulation. . But another good source is This Old House and also Next Level Carpentry. I don’t recommend many YT channels but after almost 70 years, you can spot the experienced and good ones in minutes. Carefully research cellulose and foam. Don’t use open cell - it absorbs water like a sponge. Closed cell is high in insulation value per inch but expensive and I don’t like it unless you are adding mechanical ventilation to bring in fresh air which is also expensive. But also, anytime you cover up walls, attic roof deck, ceiling etc. - if any work has to be done, the foam is covering up and has to be pulled out to access but also putting foam up on roof means you can’t see damage to your roof until it’s so bad it’s dripping down to the first floor ceiling. A little late. If your roof has to be replaced ie the plywood- guess what, now your expensive foam is gone with the plywood because it’s stuck to it. So you have to have the foam reapplied. Foam applied to wood other than used to close up gaps around light fixtures etc. is just a crazy idea. My bets are in 10 years or so, someone will realize. Oh my gosh, we shouldn’t have done this like other things in history they realized speaks a bad idea too late. Some people are already waking up when they realize their floor and roofs are rotting out. Or mad when they realize the huge expensive of the foam but now they have to put in a whole mechanical ventilation system so they can breathe downstairs. And when the power goes off and it’s 10 F outside, opening up a door or window for some fresh air doesn’t work unless you and your plumbing wants to freeze. Look houses need to breathe, I don’t want a house so tight, I need to keep mechanical ventilation system going 24/7. I want to be able to glance at my roof deck and see where it’s dark places where’s it’s been dripping. Same with your basement walls etc. if you can’t see it, what do you do? Cellulose is another bad idea - dusty. Full of fire retardant and of course the borate which is a natural product but still not something you want to be breathing in the dust. But if it gets wet, it is a huge clumpy soggy mess to get out. Like blown in fiberglass, it can blow around. It only helps better than blown in fiberglass with air better is because it’s heavy and dense. I have seen issues about if your attic is say 24” OC 2x4 and thin sheet rock about trying to get it to r38- r49 and higher for r60 for northern states in terms of weight. Plus if you have low ranch roof with trusses 11-17”+ blown in could be hitting the underside of the roof decking. Not good for mold etc. And some folks are saying it has to be replaced much sooner than marketing states plus it does sink down and needs to be constantly topped off to retain Rvalue. If you going to do batts of of fiberglass you must airseal. Rockwool is fireproof (it won’t burn) and it doesn’t offgass or produce toxic smells. It’s in what the call Comfortbatts for the attic or walls. They have batts for internal walls and board for interior too, plus exterior product meant for use as rainscreen. Water just beads up off it - just make sure you are getting the correct product for the application. For example, there is product used for hydroponics which absorbs water, and I don’t think the interior wall product though a great sound and fire barrier is particularly waterproof. Rockwool is what companies have to install around fire pipes, can lamps, between apartments etc due to fire codes. If I have my way, my next house will be new built with all Rockwool interior and exterior and some foam for air sealing (Aerobarrier) but installed prior to wiring so it can run on top. But Aerobarrier isn’t like insulation foam, with pressure it’s pulled into every nook and cranny to seal up tiny air holes and seals up any gaps but it’s not like thick layers of foam. It’s to air seal, not for insulation purposes. But then I want magnesium board vs paper backed sheetrock. No paper for the carpenter ants or termites to eat. Magnesium board is also water proof (no paper) and fireproof and doesn’t offgass. It’s hard to get. But Rockwool if say your attic or basement gets water damage, you pull the batts out and let the sheet rock dry or replace it most likely - and reinstall the batts. Turn on their side or set in the sun to make sure any possible moisture is dried out if long exposure to water. But it’s not wasted. It is made of basalt rock and slag recycled from steel production. It’s quiet, friction fit and oversized to fill the area completely. Is cut with a serrated bread knife, you will want to use long sleeves and gloves. Many say it’s not itchy, other do - but it’s made out of rock and steel slag - might be a little rough on bare skin even if no allergy or sensitivity. You of course want to air seal all openings that allow air to transfer from interior to exterior or in unconditioned space. Like lights, venting gaps, top sills, etc what you would do for any insulation choice. It’s fireproof, great on sound deadening. A friend lived near an airport - she was there pre-airport didn’t want to move and lose their family farm. They petitioned with others to not have it built. Well with the money she got as compensation, they tore down the sheet rock and insulated every wall, and ceiling etc. even their interior bedroom walls. You could be outside and it might be deafening when jets were going out but inside, it was barely noticeable - you had to really strain to hear them. You could feel them better than hear them. But I also want to use BoraCare and another of their product. It stops termites, wood eating beetles, carpenter ants, roaches, etc.on wood and concrete inside only. Also mold and mildew. Put on all the wood and concrete after the framing is up, then spray up 2’ from floor and the slab. Termites have been proven to not live on it -- they may start to tube a few inches on the slab for example and then die. The company even offers contractor warranties that it won’t be attacked by termites. This and Termidor treatment under the house before hand and around the house after building is completed and landscaping is done, and I think you are set as best as you can. Always do projects beyond code. Code is the minimum building requirement and too many contractors make it sound like a big deal but it’s the least they can get by with. Always push for higher. Do your research. And forever sake, don’t forget to seal your attic hatch or stairs - make your own, by something like Energy Guardian’s attic hatch, stairs kit, or the brand Attic Zipper that provides some insulation vs,ie but seals the opening so you just unzip it when you need to go up but it keeps out dust etc but stops air flow between the house and the attic. If you don’t do something about that air, you might as well leave the door open 24/7. And every-time your system kicks on, all that warm air is getting sucked into the attic. Or even a door is opened where you are changing the pressure in the house. Think about it. Then all you need to check is your duct work... before spending thousands on foam sealing etc - check what new improved ducts would be by a company that specializes in new duct systems and how airtight they are. Note on Rockwool, it’s not near as expensive as they state, make sure you don’t get over lied or quoted. I just went through this and had prices from double to 4x higher than I can buy it myself. Go to the Rockwool (used to be Roxul) website - look for the comfortbatt to start with. The website as a chart under specs that gives you all the products for the r value , USA or Canada, whether wood or steel framing, the joist etc spacing 16 or 24” on center, the height, length and thickness and the square footage each NPK covers and how many batts in each ok. If you know your square footage, divide it by the bag sq ft and you know how many of what you need. It says up in walls by itself, same in ceiling but if you aren’t putting up sheetrock, etc, you will want to use something to keep it up in case of vibration. It’s not nailed in place, not faced so air can travel through it. Depending on where it’s used depends on whether you need to vapor barrier. The directions and installation specs is under tools, guides, etc. And they are very nice to talk with and help you. Also if you get over 15 pks Lowe’s gives 30% discount. And I have no affiliation what so ever with Rockwool (the brand) or anything else mentioned in this comment. Just trying to help with what I have learned the hard way..

I completely understand your point. I myself am a 3 year attic insulator. I do have a new attic insulation channel you can checkout. Hopefully you plan to put at least an r50 back in your attic. That's 18.5 inches of fiberglass blown in.

Shut your Republican mouth!

I don't have soffits or vent in stand up floored attic?? And no insulation at all in this 150 yr farmhouse?? 🤔I don't know what to do?

I have 9 baffles in stalled but 6 of them have been flatted inside by wood pushing the lm flush to ceiling , would this contribute to condensation problems ? Thanks

@@SinnisjInsulator what is your insulation podcast name?

No problem!

Best of luck!

All attics need baffles, you can see this importance through my attic insulation channel.

How many sq ft?

It is a great video. If you want even more info on attic insulation, checkout my channel.

You're welcome!

None of that should really be an issue.

Yes that would serve the same purpose in a vaulted or cathedral ceiling. In a flat ceiling like my video, you just need to install them to a point where they will be a few inches above the insulation.

not necessarily .as long as you have enough air flow. you may need to block the other ends to keep blown in insulation from blowing out into the soffit.

Thanks Shanon. I’ll follow your lead Sir!

I would recommend for every truss cavity because this will maximize your airflow especially during the summer when it's really hot. Checkout my attic insulation channel for more info.

If you are going to have the soffit open you can push these in from outside usually and then go in the attic and secure the upper ends

@@HouseImprovements that's what I was thinking. The pitch is fairly low so that could make an unpleasant job somewhat better.

@@mystreteacher it's actually not too bad to install them if you have a 3 foot plank, a broom stick and a hammer stapler. I've done hundreds of attics where I install venting from inside the attic. One thing is you should also topup your attic with insulation once you're done walking in there.

Should last for many many years its even a little waxy to protect from moisture.

Most box stores will sell a foam type that staples right to the under side of the roof sheathing.I dont have insulating for this roof specifically but I do have wall insulation videos. Around here most people get the ceiling blowen in by a specialty contractor. If you live in an area that requires vapour barriers then it is applied to the bottom of the bottom cord of the rafters

You really do need a topup. Checkout my how to channel on attic insulation for more info.

Most areas you need at least 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300-400 sq. feet of floor area. That ventilation number is devided evenly between soffit and roof ventilation. We can help more on the forum if you post a question there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/

I dont think they will do much for that and adding them all the way to the peak will reduce the air flow you are trying to accomplish to get the hot air out of the attic. You want fresh air coming in and hot attic air going out.

You can honestly use any cardboard box and cut it and fold it to size. Usually you need 24 or 16 inch in center cardboard pieces. Leave a bit on both ends so you can staple it in place. Make sure you can still see your top plate of your outter wall as described in the video so insulation can cover it. Checkout my attic insulation channel for more info.

Yes if each stud bay is ventilated you should be fine. Air flow from eave to ridge of roof.

Honestly there won't be a lot of airflow if your cathedral ceiling does not have much if an attic space above it. For example if your framing is only 2*10s and then you put your insulation and poly after your plywood roof. Not much sense installing rafters. Checkout my attic insulation channel for more info.

Overkill or a great way to stop anything from blocking the airflow from soffit?

This may reduce some but won't stop it completely.

you should have a 1" space between the bottom of the roof sheathing and the top of insulation for air flow. The air should flow from soffit out through the ridge and this keeps the roof space cooler under the shingles making the shingles last longer.we can discuss more in the forum if you wish.www.house-improvements.com/forums/

I was told by my inspector that you put them only where vents (soffits) are located.

These cardboard units are wide enough to staple to trusses

Around here we use aluminum vented soffit panels so they are all vented but if you are adding in vents to the wood soffits then it depends on the size of the building and air flow you need. We could help you more on the forum if you wanted to ask there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/

You get a natural convection happening that takes the warmer air out through either roof vents or ridge vents.

There is no easy way, Crawl in carefully and install them, without falling through the ceiling.

I'm not sure.. there is a constant air flow over the cardboard. Though I personally would have used the foam ones.

You have verbalized my worries. See my comment up a ways here in this thread. Man, I don't want to rip out everything I've already done! However.....

I would do at least 3 rafter bays at each vented soffit area and you need to plug off the rest to keep blow in insulation out off soffit.. Since these will also do that I would just install all of the rafter spaces with baffles.

Can-Cel and Weathershield are two brands here in Canada. There was link on Amazon but they are unavailable right now.

Just get some styrofoam ones or you can honestly just cut cardboard to fit your 16 inch truss cavities. Checkout my attic insulation for more info.

If you are careful to allow a clear path for air flow.

They have kind of a waxy finish so they last many many years. I have never seen any have problems unless the roof leaks for a while right over one.

@@HouseImprovements Thanks for the info.

Our forum is a better place for your questions , we can have an easier conversation there. please copy and paste your question there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/

Depends on the amount of ventilation you need . Most places are looking for a min. of 1sq' of ventilation evenly distributed between soffit venting and roof top venting for every 300sq' of ceiling area. we can discuss this in more detail if you need it ,in my forum.www.house-improvements.com/forums/

You can usually slide these up inside from the exterior .You just can't fasten them but the insulation may keep them held up depending on the situation .

Chances are you do not have enough soffit vents if that is all you have . In my forum we can help you determine that. Even if you do have enough you will need more than just baffles where the vents are because they restrict the amount of square inches of flow you get. Personally I would install them in each rafter bay

I would likely use a roof edge vent under the shingles and a ridge vent . insulate the ceiling but leave an air space under the roof sheathing. Otherwise I would have it insulated with closed cell spray foam , then you dont need the ventilation.

@@HouseImprovements thank you. Does this change any if I have a metal roof?

You could press the J into a small bead of caulk at the wall if you are concerned.

@@HouseImprovements Thanks, I'll work with that.

I do not.

Totally depends on where you live. Up here in Canada and I would say the Northern states as well ,R50 right now is the min. R value in an attic.

@@HouseImprovements we have r60 now as the new code where I work. 22.25 inches for fiberglass. Nice walkthrough video. I do also have a attic insulation channel I'm working on.

It would be best between every rafter to keep insulation out of soffit and to keep airflow working well.

@@HouseImprovements Im building a garage and was thinking of blocking every second rafter section off with batt.

My local hardware store has them. Home Hardware.

I just prefer these but both work fine

I can't says for sure as we are not real humid all year but it is wax coated . There are other styles that are kind of a foam product.

You would have to add a "dam" using cardboard or wood blocking at the wall and the foam ones staple to the under side of the roof sheathing

@@HouseImprovements I ended up making my own out of some left over plywood that I had lying around. I wanted it gone anyway. It worked out really well.

If you have a roof leak you have bigger issues.

@@HouseImprovements yes indeed. Ceiling replacement and insulation replacement.

I normally do it when building new, not sure what everyone else does. Much easier to install before the ceiling is done

You can purchase insulation stops or baffles at pretty much anywhere that has insulation

@@HouseImprovements Thank you

Check you local lumber yards.

Add a "ridge vent" and your attic will be so much happier. Shannon is the best! But I'm miffed that he used just one vent in that roof. (customer must have cheaped out) The ridge vent means that all the air travels straight up and out where as having one or two vents means the air comes into the attic and it all fights to get out the same hole(s) This leaves areas that have stagnant air, warm spots, cool spots, just generally uneven venting all around. This can leave moisture in areas and mold growth.

You would correct depending on how large the building is and how much airflow you need. if using blown in insulation you still need to block off the ones you are not venting so the insulation does not blow out into the soffit area. In all honesty IMO you can't have too much ventilation in most areas.

@@HouseImprovements Thanks for your input. I love your channel... I'm insulating our new construction right now. That helps thank you.

My local lumber retailer has them but many places only sell foam ones now.

And cardboard attracts bugs.

I've seen 40 year old cardboard baffles and they become very solid in fact especially in an attic with low insulation. They have never rotted away.

@@SinnisjInsulator I've seen 40 year old cars in fantastic condition also.... that doesn't mean allot of others aren't rotted out.

@@macleanclassics well I highly dought the homeowner went to the attic and maintained these vents like you would a car.

@@SinnisjInsulator no doubt, thats why I think the styro or poly ones might just be a better option

not at all.

@@HouseImprovements I forgot to mention you did a very good job on the video . adding insulation to my house is on the to do list. Luckily my roof is a Gable style roof. I can stand in my attic extending my arms all the way up and I still don’t touch the top but where I need to go to put these on as you know it is very tight. It’s been a cooler winter this year down in sub tropical Florida. a lot of Canadians Come here for the winter. I live in a retirement town. Anyways, I wish I was able to get up in attic and do the job now. I’ll have to probably wait till next year. It’s starting to get hot out and it can get very hot up there From summertime. Today feels like 88 temp84 . I’ve got some health issues right now so I can’t go up there and I don’t trust the contractors here to do a thorough job. Anyways, great video I was thinking about cardboard but I’m not sure how it would hold up down here in this humidity. I did notice there was foam ones that weren’t secured but they were all over the place laying flat ,some missing and broken up . I’m guessing from hurricane winds. It appears there’s no way to secure the foam. Well, at least the ones that were in this house. My eaves do not have aluminum sofits . I have a gap between two 1 x3’s or it might even be 1x4’s anyways, the gap has a metal screen above those all the way around the house. You can definitely feel heat escaping from the screen.

You can staple the foam ones to the under side of the roof.