I was nervously skeptical when I did this with my 305 today. I was getting the feeling I had just replaced my intake with a screen door. Much to my amazement, no leaks....so far. But two previous attempts using the rubber gaskets on the Chinese wall allowed major slipping. I though my leaks were coming from the main crank. But the flywheel was always dry. So I tried it one last time using a bead of sealant on the walls of China about just thinner than a #2 pencil. Prior to applying the sealant, I blasted it with carb cleaner and let it it dry. I cant say reattaching the manifold went smoothly. Its a lifted suburban and the manifold is cast iron. But like I said. So far, so good.🤞
I don't remember if the gaskets came with any gasket maker or not. I always have a tube of gasket maker in my tool box. I'm sorry I could not answer your question.
Underrated intake manifold videos. Great job. I see you went from a 2 barrel to a 4, that’s what I’m thinking of doing, just took the 2 barrel out today and changed the distributor yesterday. I have a AVS2 that I want to install, this was before i realized I have to change in take manifold too lol, so now I either go through with it or just buy a new 2 barrel. Going through with the 4 barrel I would have to decide between a aluminum intake like an edelbrock or find a cast iron GM stock. I like the reliability and durability of the original cast iron, but I hear that the aluminum edelbrock performs better. What should I do and why? Why did you choose to go with aluminum? Hope to hear your response take care!
Well, mainly to fit the carburetor. I only run holleys or edelbrock, and they are both sqaure bores, aka 4150 flange. I wouldn't expect to gain much power from an intake, but it's supposed to be proven to add a little bit. Also, they look better. As far as reliability, I've been around lots of engines that have been running aluminum edelbrock intakes with no issues at all. The only thing that an iron intake can handle better, is if you run straight water with no anti freeze. The aluminum will rot faster than iron. You will have a hard time finding a good stock iron intake that fits a edelbrock. Most are for spread bore q jets.
The distributor cap facing #1 cylinder is a myth, the rotor on the distributor has to face number 1 on the cap. I think it's a little different with the vacuum type, which the vacuum should face at 6 if I'm not mistaken But usually where ever your rotor faces will be your #1 which at this point can be anywhere.
I know that you can run use any position on the cap for # 1. But there still is only one correct position. Using the right position will make your plug wires fit better, and the diaphragm for the vacuum advance will be in the right position, to where it can be adjusted without hitting anything. Also on a tpi if you don't use the proper #1 position the plug wires won't even fit. That's why I do it like this.
Point the rotor at the back of the carb and the distributor will be square in the engine at around 36 degrees timing. GM made a cap to snap on top of the wires, it was numbered, the front post nearest the driver side is correct #1 spot if ya want your wires to fit right. Looks better too.
I have coolant in my 3rd spark plug port. No other issues. Could it be the intake manifold gasket? Or do i need to pull the heads? I didn't run it hot. 95 gmc. 350.
I apologize for the late response, but if you have water in a cylinder it's more than likely a head gasket or cracked head. That's just my opinion. Water only flows across the very front of the intake. I would say it's not very likely that it's coming from the intake.
I have an rpm air gap intake and it’s leaking coolant internally. I have everything torqued down do spec and the right amount of silicone but still leaks
Yeah somebody told me that I could block off that EGR valve instead of putting it on that Edelbrock intake or you know that's just what they're saying I'm not a pro pro like you are but I know one thing that anytime you mess with ventilation sometimes you have problems with running right and I definitely don't want to have no problems with running properly so if you know if that can block off that EGR valve instead of putting it on like you were doing right there at the last part of the video I'd appreciate it all right appreciate the video bro thank you
Yessir you can block the EGR!! I have a 84' Z28 Camaro I deleted the entire EGR/fuel vapor system completely off of my car bc it ran like shit no matter what myself or anyone else did to it! Haven't had any issue since.. 🤞💯🤙
It runs ok so far in the driveway. I haven't got a chance to take it out on the street yet. I have a video titled 40 series flowmaster sound that shows the truck running. I went overkill on the exhaust and intake because Im eventually going to run aftermarket heads.I actually had that intake on a 3/4 ton chevy and it ran perfectly fine on a stock 350
