If your new balusters are a different size/diameter/dimension, then the holes drilled in the existing handrail may not be the right distance apart, or the right size to accept the new balusters. If your new balusters are the same dimensions (just a different 'look'), and you like your existing hand-rail, you may be able to salvage/re-use the existing hand-rail. The wood balusters in this video likely had a different diameter at their top than the iron balusters -- which is probably what informed the decision to replace the hand-rail and plate. Just my two cents as a DIY renovator.
@@LuckySawdust The trouble with that approach is that on many stairs the bottom of the baluster is fastened to the step itself, so you need to deal with the step, including the lag bolt coming out of the wood that holds the bottom. If you have to replace the steps, it makes baluster replacement a non-starter.
I really appreciate this video. I'm just not gathering why the handrail (and sometimes steps) need to be replaced. If you're using epoxy in the railing hole why did you have to replace the whole rail? If the bottom is held in by the shoes, why does it matter if the bottom is a hole instead of 1/2" recessed? Thank you.
Use Power Grab instead of the epoxy. A laser level works great when lining up the top rail holes. Also, just cut the baluster 1" longer than your daylight opening.
@@olegmandryk3610 you can, but liquid nails has a lower amount of play in it than the epoxy. The epoxy is a set and forget. The liquid nails flexes and can over time move the spindles out of the holes. Some people use liquid nails and are totally fine, but for $23 the epoxy is a better long term professional solution.
I have completed a tread replacement job in which some of the holes for the iron balusters in the stair rail were sloppily bored. Replacing the stair rails is outside the scope of my work, but I want to improve the appearance as a finishing touch, so I have bought pitch shoes and even corrected the pitch angle to perfectly match the rail angle. However, when the set screws are tightened, the pitch shoes tilt to an incorrect and inconsistent angle, so that their perfect fit to the rail is lost. To preserve the fit, It has been suggested to me that I avoid tightening the screws and instead glue the pitch shoes in place. How would you recommend dealing with this problem? If glue is the solution, could you please give instruction as to the best way to accomplish this without making a a big mess? Thank you.
Yes. You can leave the handrail - the holes left by removing the wood balusters may line up for the iron balusters. If not you may need to drill new ones and repair old. You can also apply a colored polyurethane (sold at big box stores) to darken/change the color of the rail without a total strip and finish - or paint.
5/8” is too tight for the square portion of the baluster. 🤔 I’m not understanding how to slide it up that 1 1/4” up into the handrail to place the baluster into the landing tread.
I used a 4-inch piece of the square baluster rod that I sawed off and then hammered that into each of the 5/8 inch holes to widen them a bit. That created just enough room to slide in the rods.
Hi, sorry I'm not a carpenter so this is why I'm asking. Why not put the epoxy in the bottom hole and the hand rail hole. Install the baluster at the bottom than install the railing right on top? Screw the railing in after.
Construction adhesive is a horrible choice. It has a hydraulic effect as it can push the balusters out of their holes. Just spend the money on epoxy and there will be no issues. Now, if you aren’t focused and are messing around, the epoxy will set before you straighten out your balusters.
@@awoodmann1746 You definitely misread his tone. Just because he used the term “horrible” doesn’t mean he was saying it with disgust. Try reading it from a different perspective and you won’t get your feelings hurt
@@Nicholas_gabriel shooting a 18g nail through the handrail horizontally can pin the spindle against the inside of the hole, not the best idea but works
