With the 4x8 fake T1-11 lasts about 15 years max in Indiana then the bottom rots out also horizontal joints of two stacked sheets are difficult and require z flashing but then the lower part of the upper sheet will still rot in 10-15 years in Indiana ( quite a bit of rain and snow year round)
*What is the source for that flexible base trim Z flashing? I can't find much in the way of this kind of flashing suitable for protecting horizontal trim boards.*
Is this sarcasm? If not, pretty much any primer that is not oil or shellac based is going to be acrylic latex. Bullseye 123 is probably the best out there, though.
Why i do not see anywhere it say what type size starter strip do you need? You have to put a strip down first to bump the bottom out. Basically if it is a 3/8" thick siding use a 3/8 inch starter strip?
Sacrifice one piece of siding to make your starter strips. The thickness needs to be the same as the rest of the siding. The width of the starter strip is equal to the overlap on remaining courses. So a minimum of 1 inch wide. If you make it wider that first full row will be pitched out from the house a bit more than subsequent rows. Hope this helps.
@@ykciRon a small project it would be worth the time and effort. I’ve seen people use roofing nails and they just come out too easily. Perhaps screws will keep it fastened better.
I'm about to install the panel siding however I'm having a hell of a time finding the coil nails for the pneumatic Nailer that meet LP specifications. Can anyone tell me where I can order them? I'm in Arkansas and the stores iv been to do not have them
On a small addition section of my house I will replacing six damaged T1-11 panels in the next 2 or 3 days. When installing LP (Series 38) vertical 4 x 8 siding, do you have to caulk each 4 foot seam at the tongue and groove, and also put a trim piece over the seam? OR maybe just one or the other? Can you explain what size trim and anything else that I might need to know with this step? I know from the video about caulking where 2 cut pieces butt together, but does that apply to the ends of each panel on the tongue and groove as well? Thanks for a great video!
the install manual shows using mechanical flashing, so metal flashing etc. between the bottom of the siding and top of the concrete, with at least a 3/8" gap
Run furring strips with tapcons or a ram set. Then, nail a 1 inch thick sheet of treated plywood on the furring strips. Wrap in house wrap and good to go.
it's been a year...so i assume you know at this point, but they say the 540 series trim will cover it, or the 440 but you don't get as much flexibility on the overlap with the 440 series.
Right no joint flashing? Any time I've left a 3/16 gap in horizontal siding home owner or sight supervisor freaks out 😂 . How wide should the starter be with stageger shake look ? I would fire a guy for caulking that sloppy 🤣 cheers brother 🍻
@@Lpsmartsidesiding I'm having trouble finding info on nailing into 7/16 structural sheathing. Can I nail into sheathing and not into studs? Thanks in advance.
@@ykciR I contacted LP tech support to find out more details. The lap siding does not need to be nailed into framing but needs other criteria: structural sheathing; nail spacing; nail penetration, nail diameter. If those are met, no need for framing and warranty still applies.
Strap the wall vertically with treated 1×4 if you don't want to remove stucco. But although more costly and labor intensive ALWAYS BETTER TO REMOVE STUCCO 🍻
This sounds like a pharmaceutical commercial with all the stuff that can kill ya... I don't have to worry about any of this with decent lumber. I got a headache listening to this guy who has never touched a hammer
This company is deplorable. I have a half finished siding job on my house because Series 76 LP Smartside 8-inch Cedar apparently does not exist anymore. It became very scarce during the pandemic after I'd started my project, then prohibitively expensive, now is nowhere to be found. Shame on LP. There was no warning and when I inquired, empty promises of coming product for over a year instead of the truth. Run away from this company fast.
I had the same issue with the 4x8 panels. On a partially finished project. I heard it was because of patent issues or something. The new panels don't match the old ones. It will have to get finished with the new ones. I won't care when I'm dead anyway😐.
You are installing lap siding incorrectly. As in “not in a workmanlike manner. “. Manufacturing a product does not give you veto over millennia of carpenters. You are supercilious fools.
Yes this is crap. Replaced tons of this when it was popular. Recently did a house in it. Needs huge gaps at seams and edges. If you don't it expands and pops itself right off the wall
Just imagine having a bunch of questions on here and @lpsmartsiding doesn't answer any if those questions... I recently did a job with this stuff and i can say it was a pain in the ass, but looked good..
@@LumberjackVictim I can't remember the name but you clamp them to keep the spacing right. You adjust them to whatever you need. I would look into it. They are a little pricey I'm in VA. Smart siding clamps. They are def worth it if you want to keep in consistent...
