Great video......Thank you very much. One question: What goes on the vertical part of the wall ? Can you use a Cap on a vertical wall and how would you connect the horizontal with the vertical. Looking forward to hearing from you.
There should be room for airflow in the front, and also the glue you use to prevent water to flow in will rot after a few years, also when water comes in there and it freeze, its gonna expand the metal away from the glue
I don't like the splice plate technique and you didn't even caulk where it laps. It's much cleaner and water tight to use an s lock, standing seam or even ghost lapping it a couple inches.
That is not correct as it is designed for water to collect inside the overlap. Even if this passes inspections, it does not make it right. Please delete this video and make one showing a proper overlap. Also a 1/4-inch gap on a 10-foot is more than necessary even in 100-degree environments.
This is completely incorrect. These need to have some type of overlap on them at the very least. The seam connection should actually be done with a standing seam technique or an S-lock technique. The fact that you put screws in the back completely negates the allowance for expansion and contraction, You’ve fixed the piece in place, it cannot move now. This would not pass any type of inspection.
Mr. Hunter, we appreciate the feedback and value your opinion. There are a few ways to install coping cap and this video provides one way of many. The technique provided in the video has been used for many years by many installers across the country and has withstood the test of time and passed all inspections that we are aware of. Your suggested method is yet another way to install cap, but is much more difficult for most and is not used by many installers, but still ends with same results. The trim piece that's fixed in place is only 10' in length which will minimize the expansion and contraction. If you would like to post a link to a video of your installation method in the comments we would welcome that.