I have watched other channels to do this, and they have confused me!! OMG!! Your channel was the most clearest instruction video! Thank you soooooo much!!!!!!!!!!!! Now, I totally understand!
Question is the first jbox in the attic nessasary? Can you just go straight to the first pot with the main power wire if you've got enough slack on the wire?
Hi! That is a great question! The answer is no. If you have enough slack just connect the power to the first pot light and it’s jbox and continue the series 👍🏽😊
What would cause the lights to not all light up? When i turn the switch on only a couple light up. They used to all light up. Now it is random which ones will come on
I did notice one oversight and that came at approx. the 19:16 mark as you ran wires into the light fixtures J-box. You didn't install cable clamps onto the box. Running cables through a punch out might be dangerous, with respect to the sharp edges. I think cable clamps should be used for safety and probably code.
Man, you showed what I couldn't' find in any other video. I'm a beginner and didn't know how all the lights would be connected, but you made it look easy and explained it really well. Subbed!
great video.. but u def need a plastic bushing to protect the romex to the sharp edges of the box.... Arlington NM94-25 Black Button Push-In NM Cable Connector, 3/8 Trade Size
Out of all the videos i saw on RU-vid for installing the recessed lights, this one is the most detailed oriented. I love how you laid out the plan for figuring out where the joists are, drilling the holes avoiding the joists and properly arranging the wiring over the ceiling with insulation! This is exactly what I was looking for! Great job👍 you earned a new subscriber today!
The cool thing about the newest LED ceiling lights is they are so thin you can install them directly under a joist. As long as the 2 clips can fit somewhere in the hole 180 degrees from each other, it will work. It’s crazy how thin they are.
Thank you for showing the footage in the attic and how to wire the lights from the spool. That's something not shown in other videos that was especially valuable to me.
Excellent video. Couple of suggestions. When you connected the wires in the attic and installed them in a PVC box located under the insulation - (1) a connector is required on the bare ground wires (just a couple twists is not sufficient). (2) since the junction box is going to be hidden under insulation, it should be marked above that a junction box is located there for future electrical accessibility. The marking of hidden JBs in the attic can be as simple as spray painting the rafters above it and then leaving a note at the attic entrance next to a spot of spray paint that means a box is located there. I have seen folks install a 1 x 2 vertically at each box location and write on it "Box Below". (3) NEC would require a minimum of 6" free conductor in each JB. Hope this helps.
@@FixThisHouse I would also add that you should have added some kind of bushing or connector on the box where you fed the NMD into the pot light box. Those sharp edges from the punch-out could lead to serious problems down the road.
Can you explain where your power source in the attic came from? (Did you feed it from the breaker? Was a being used for a previous fixture?) I'm not sure if you mentioned that and I may have missed it.
I just installed some of these lights in my home and I tapped into the old fixture wiring. Split the existing wire, added some 14-2 romex (to carry power to new lights) and tied it together with some wire nuts.
I came to the comments expecting everyone to ask this. It was the most glossed over detail of the video but the most vital info imo. I’m kind of shocked by how few are asking.
A great video. However, there is a mistake that everyone should be made aware of. Never insert a Romex cable into a box without some type of cable clamp. The boxes for the LED lights are very thin metal and razor sharp. Without a clamp, the edge of the entry hole could cut through the conductors and create a short. There are plastic push in clamps available that are ideal for this application or you can use the classic screw type box clamp.
Driver boxes require some kind of NM connector. You can't just push the wires in an open hole. Grounds require a wire nut or a crimp sleeve. Boxes should be mounted to the structure.
@@perezr1241 This wiring wouldn't pass code and would fail an electrical inspection. Incorrect advice in electrical can can cause your house to burn down. It's serious. As a contractor, I can tell you wiring like this is dangerous. There are so many DIY videos showing illegal wiring it's so incredibly dangerous.
@@DaruDhillon - are you talking about 19:39, with the missing grommet to protect the wire from being cut by the sharp metal edge on the hole? I agree that's an important issue. Personally I've left the boxes unmounted, but if there's a danger then I'd gladly go back and mount my boxes. Of all the dozen or so videos on mounted wafer lights, I've not yet seen anyone mount the box.
Great video. Did exactly what you showed, 6 pot lights in living room. Worked out great. My attic was a mess to work around in but everything turned out great. Thanks for the detailed step by step 👍👍👍.
Alright I'm a little slow. These are wired in series correct. So you have a power source that is going into one light but you are bundling that with the next wire to the next to the next correct? Those wago connectors are carrying the load down the line so to speak?
Yes that is correct. The loops that are running through the holes are cut with one end being connected to the light fixture (Wafer Light) using the provided wire nuts in the junction box the other cut end is attached to the same color wire using the same wire nuts in the junction box. So you will have three wires in each wire nut. The factory installed wire coming from the light, the power wire coming from the source and the daisy chain wire that goes to the next light thus creating the daisy chain. He then goes to the next light and does the same thing and that will daisy chain all your lights together creating a complete circuit. The only one that isn't daisy chained is the last light on the circuit as that's where the daisy chain will end so you won't have any wires coming out of that junction box just going in from the second to last light. Just be sure to use cable connectors in those junction box cutouts so the wire going in doesn't get damaged on the sharp edges of where the cutout is on the junction box. That's the only part he left out but he does say earlier in the comments that he went back and added those.
I'm not even doing this for at least a year or two, but I enjoyed your video because you take time on each step and explain it so fully. Your pacing is also really great. Thanks so much!
Yours is the best. You're very honest with teaching us how to do the A-Z pot lights wiring - whereby most of the AHMF wannabe electricians hides it from us.
Blown insulation in the attic sucks when installing recessed lights, you have to make sure it's cleared away before you start cutting holes in the ceiling. Another tip is to buy 6" lights instead of 4", they give better coverage and the larger hole allows you to use both hands.
First I would like to thank you so much 🙏 for your great recess lights and the wiring which none of other videos show. I greatly appreciate it The only question for you I wish if you could show how did you wire to the switch at the end Please let me know or if you could do another video Look forward to hearing from you 🙏 Thank you again
I'm a retired carpenter, and now an avid DIYer. I watched many videos on DIY LED ceiling lights the new ones. Yours is the best video out there. Thank you for being concise, but still having the important details. Coincidentally I've installed the exact same lights throughout my home. I hope they hold up. Thank you again for taking the time to make this video.
@@FixThisHouse I agree hole-heartedly. I was an electrician for many years, but I still refer to videos to make sure I know exactly what to expect before a project. Usually, I find myself wincing or cringing at some of the shortcuts or left-out information, however your video was awesomely thorough and you even took safety seriously. A_
Didn’t explain the power wire source , it’s all daisy chain on , one switch I guessing .. good video .. think the one pole switch Install could have been more elaborate .. Thxs
I like the video. I only have one concern .it looks like the j box are made out of metal.so when you ran your wine through them you did not install cable connections.
@18:11 is that the wire that come from the breaker?. If so, could the light box be a "junction box" if you don't have an external box to join the wires?. I understand that the junction box should be visible but they are not if they are above the ceiling drywall. Great video!.
It has to be accessible. If you have an attic large enough to easily move around in, that typically fits the requirements. Check your local codes though, of course.
Holy crap guide this is the most clear understanding video I have ever watched on RU-vid thank you so much I completely understand exactly what to do there was no complications you instructions for dynamite and I really appreciate you thank you
Hello sir, I would like to put 4 recession lights in the square shape on my kitchen ceiling, but they have beam behind that. Can you show me how to run a wires without cutting more sheet rocks ?. Thank you
Hi I would love to! I can further show you in detail if you sign up for my patreon! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊..there you can message me pictures and I can better assist you! Here is my patreon… www.patreon.com/Fixthishouse
Thank you very much for this video. Everything is extremely well explained. I have question though. I didn't see on your list the main junction box you used in the attic. Could you please let me know where you got it? I can't find the exact thing on Amazon.
Ensenior lights are now 6" or less so a 6" hole saw works fine. You'll also want the plastic half globe for it to catch the drywall dust. Also if you installed 50 of these it would still be only 600 watts, so use 14/2 instead of 12 wire which is more expensive and more of a pain to work with. IMHO . You also need a 3'8" Romax connector in the box or equivalent to prevent cuts to the wire and strain relief . Not using it is a code violation.
Hi, great video and you have so many approval comments. Some people have asked you questions and it would be helpful for those of us who are wondering the same thing if you could respond to the questions. Thank you.
Why are you using 12-2 wire for LED pot lights? This is usually reserved for 20 amp kitchen outlets or 220 volt baseboard heaters that draw a lot of power. 14-2 is normal for conventional lighting like incandescent and fluorescent. LED's draw way less so 14-2 is even overkill and much cheaper than 12-2 but there's nothing smaller.
Very easily, all you need to do is wear nitrile glove to protect your ceiling from stains, then grab any side and carefully pull to one side then another side. The spring mechanism should fold up. 👍🏽😊
No mentioning of how many light switches control these pot lights and whether you connected them in series or parallel... how many junction boxes you used in the attic... should we create zones or not (groups of pot lights controlled by the same light switch)... and how to use a dimmer switch when there are two switches controlling two separate groups of lights.... This is not against your video, I'm just a bit frustrated as no one has yet mentioned those details to those of us who are installing those pot lights in a room controlled by more than one light switch and an additional 3-way switch. In a typical kitchen you'll most probably have at least two light fixtures controlled by two switches. Obviously I have two junction boxes to choose from and will make a choice of installing pot lights to replace the old light fixtures or remove them and patch up and paint (not looking forward to). These isn't a single RU-vid video talking about replacing existing lights in a given room and almost everyone talks about how to wire those pot lights and drill holes when I'm well beyond this basic info.
Dude, pass one electrical wire thru one knockout and install electrical 1/2" cable connectors in the 1/2" metal knockouts. Takes an extra minute to do this and will protect the wire from abrasion. That is why we have this pesky thing called the National Electrical Code. Also orange wire nuts on 12 Awg wire, really? And yes you do have to wire nut the ground too.
Good explanation of how to install these low profile potlights, EXCEPT... what if you hade a 2 story and are trying to put lights in kitchen, and the ceiling joists are a barrier to fishing the wire to another part of the room. Attic access is fine, unless you don't have it. Suggestions welcome.
These lights fixtures of the LED that's installed in people's houses can throw down 3D images across the room they can mess with your mind they can shine a flight floating around in your house or your apartment they can do some freaky things with these lED lights technology is not always a good thing
Mistake (Verbal) @ 18:25 I don’t think he meant to say “connect the neutral white with the hot black”. That’s bad. Connect white to white and black to black as you see him do.
Twisting ground wires together without a connector, either a wire nut or ground crimp is not according to the National Electric code. Everything else was perfect.
for the wires around the 20min mark, are we able to pull them back out? i have a light that went out and am trying to install a new one but Idk if I'm able to just yank it out and install it into the new box
@19:58 you cant just put a loose rommex cable in a metal box hole without any clamp or strain relief connector. That is a major code violation and hazard.
I’m a beginner and debating should I do this DIY why how was this connected to a switch? Only thing I didn’t see and what if you don’t have a free connection in your attic?
I am planning on doing this soon, just a question on the wiring for anyone who knows better than me. In the vid he connected all hot and common in and outs to the connectors. I was thinking to connect hot in and out to next light with common connected to each other and not the lights themselves except the final one. Any advice guys?
Great video! Great instructions keeping everything to the point. ADVICE: Im trying to determine how lights to install for 24' x 15' family room for ambient lighting? Im assuming six because eight seem a bit much. Also any dimmer suggestions ?
Awesome video man. Quick question. I want to do this in my living room. The attic above has a light switch and fixture in it. My question is how do I connect this series of wiring to the power source that is already up there? Or how could i connect that to the switch that is in the living room?
Lol I wanted to find a video like this from months ago we’re the guy will explain. But no like you do , I like the way you run the cable and. Shows the way to doit and connect. I’m glad I’m subscribed to your Chanel. Thanks for the video .
Right but he didn't put romex grommets on those knockouts. I know he's not an electrician (neither am I), but it should've said in the instructions to put one. To me, it's common sense. Also, make sure you put a wire nut or crimp sleeve on the grounds. If your testing everything out, sure leave them twisted, but when finished with the project, always finish each joint in a junction box.
Very informative. Thank you. Just one question... Did you do any video on how to connect to the power supply and switch? I am going to do some can lights and don't know how to create a "new circuit" or if I even need one. Maybe I can tie into another lighting circuit that is already there?
The J Box , did you connect the main power source with the new wiring and put that in the box? Also, the main power source was that wiring aleady there or did you install that first? Thanks
