Cheers from Peterborough Ontario! I am doing an addition, and as a timber framer, I don't know a lot about this, but we are putting in a batchelor basement, and these videos are a huge help. Rock on dude!
Hey ben I’m firm believer in using resilient channel myself but I use 3/4”fine thread screws for fastening the drywall to the rc channel so the shank of the screw won’t through too much and grab into the backing like you were talking about. Another great video
thats pretty dangerous. The screws' load rating is depenedent on how far through the substrate it is intended to go, which is about 3/4". A 3/4" screw on 5/8 board is only giving you an 1/8" of grabbing power. If anyone is using this video as a guide, don't use pocket door screws on your ceiling.
@@jasonzwaagstra3948 You misread him. He was talking about fixing the drywall to the channel, not the channel to the joists. Nobody sane would use 3/4" screws through 5/8" boards lol
Ben I watched your skate channel since almost the very beginning, thank you for both channels of informative, useful content as I found this channel unrelated while doing a drywall/framing apprenticeship. And that was at least a year ago now thanks for it all bro!
Great video again. I just put pencil marks at each end. Tack up one end on a mark, leave it loose. Then tack the other end and tighten all. No snapped lines. And clean the floor and just go on stilts. Wicked fast.
Thanks so much for this quick tutorial on installing resilient channel. I feel much better about the job I'm doing tomorrow now. It's on my own place but still want it to be mint!
For those extra in-between channels, why not just drop a pencil line onto the wall where they're located? Then you don't need to remember where they are, or lay them out onto the ceiling panel, because you can see the end of the line after the panel is up.
Ben, I have a multi-room drywall job for you. I'll pay whatever you quote. Baby coming soon and can't find a single interested person with good ratings/reviews. Thanks for the awesome videos as always.
Contact me on instagram. @ben_degros I'm not really taking on jobs right now but I'm not heartless either. It will depend where you live and how big the job is.
Have you thought of using resilient sound clips and hat channel instead of resilient channel. I know it costs more but it gives you a more solid backing when you hang your drywall and I believe you get a better STC rating.
FYI, RC is made of materials that can’t get a Tuning Fork effect so really where you screw the RC to wooden framing is not a point of sound transfer do the vibration has been stopped... That’s the way I understand it
Great video! What if I want to install two layers of drywall on the ceiling. What screw should I use for the first and second layer? Can the boards go right overtop of each other?
Never even heard of this material. Interesting. You know in the New England states (particularly Mass and RI), they always install wood strapping across ceiling joists for some reason before hanging drywall (actually blue-board, which gets floated with mud). Maybe they'd be better off using this product instead.
Resilient channel is about 5x as expensive as strapping. Works about 5x better in the soundproofing department too though. I live in the midatlantic and WISH strapping was a standard thing. I’m convinced it’s for insulation strength. For decades here 1/2” drywall and 24” centers were the standard. Throw 2 feet of cellulose on top and you’ve got one pillowy ceiling. Strapping makes hanging drywall a dream too.
Same purpose but better for noise. Hat channel with RC1-type clips is the best (aside from building room-within-a-room) but RC with mineral wool insulation (or any) is much better for sound. Really be nice if it was required for any two+ story buildings to reduce noise (and reduce ceiling cracks and screw pops).
Thank you for your video. Is it possible to do something like this with an *existing* ceiling (i.e., one that you cannot open up because of asbestos or other concerns)? Thank you.
so ? is it for sound proofing or not? what was the feedback from your customer? are they experiencing noise from the floor above or has doing this reduced it? or completelly eliminated noise ?
I'd like to add that the little dimples along the channel are what dissipates the sound by taking advantage of the properties of sound waves. Not necessarily that there's less contact with the floor joist.
I don't know why everyone builds houses with osb nowadays,there's just way more cons to osb,like for example,strength,screws strip the material easy and won't hold if screwed up and it burns very easily making the entire house more of fire hazard.
Great video @Vancouver Carpenter. Been following your channel for a while now and I'm wondering if you can create a video to show how you would install RC around a window? Specifically how the dry wall meets the window frame?
Thanks for this video. I have done RC to hang drywall before as well. What I would like to see is how to you finish the drywall against the walls? As I understand it, you are not supposed to have the ceiling drywall come in contact with the wall so the ceiling is allowed to vibrate on its own without sending the sound down the walls. How do you go about finishing the ceiling/wall joint?
If you wall is screwed into the stud then yes, it is more important to ensure they aren't touching. If the walls are isolated too, it is less important but still a good idea. Way I did it is to have the ceiling come within 1/4 of the wall studs. Then have your wall drywall come up to roughly the same 1/4"=3/8" gap. Them use foam cord to fill in the gaps that are 1/4" or larger and then acoustic sealant (I do it a second time after the first application has dried and shrunk). Then for finishing I used Perfect 90' type product, not paper tape, as it gives you a far straighter and stronger corner without any of the possible challenges you'd have with the gap and paper tape.
Should you install potlights to RC? Could it affect soundproofing? Bought these potlights from Costco. Electrican wants the RC up first to install potlights. ugh
On the rim joists and other supported floor joists would it not stabilize the drywall and reduce vibration? I understand avoiding contact as much as possible with surfaces that flex and transmit vibrations, but just how much does a stud wall vibrate at an intersection of two planes? Wouldn't that require the entire structure to vibrate, from foundation to roof if the support column is moving?
Thanks for the tips. Greetings from Toronto. Had a question about soundproofing.... I noticed you didn't fill the entire cavity with Rockwool insulation between the joists in the ceiling, was there a reason for that? I want to have the best soundproofing, so I want to do insulation as well as resilient channel. Thanks in advance.
Technically it doesn't make it quieter. The first layer of insulation does the absorption enough. Adding twice as much actually does not soak up much more sound.
Thank you for the video. I see that you're hanging the resilient channel perpendicular to the joists. I want to hang my resilient channel in parallel but offset so the screws don't go into the joist. My reasoning is that my drywall is TypeX fire-rated and I can minimize airflow between the joists if I install the resilient channel in parallel. I've never seen it installed in parallel so I want to know what you think.
Can I make a request? I'm a DIY homeowner and not a pro like you. My house was built in 1995. Popcorn ceilings and knock down wall texture. If I make a drywall repair, how would I replace the texture to match the rest of the room? I'm learning a lot from your videos.
First you have to fade the texture line so you don’t end up with a solid line from old to new texture with a paint scraper(west a mask ). Then do your repair and don’t go over the texture. Then you can sand it. Paint it and the you spot texture the bare (repaired) area. Then do a full texture. Double fan. Which means you texture the whole room one direction and then texture the room the other direction. If you want it perfect hire someone. I do it daily as I am in the insurance and restoration business. Or and an alternative you could laminate the ceiling with 1/2 inch drywall or 1/4 inch drywall and just make it smooth.
By fade the texture , I mean you need to take the texture all the way down to a smooth surface , a minimum of 16 inches around you patches. So it gradually goes from smooth to fully textured. That allows for a proper blend.
Hi Ben! Great video as always. Had very little knowledge on this subject prior to your video. So if a ceiling is screwed and glued, it will be noisier and more prone to cracking ?? Oops....
@@Friendlyneighborhoodalien I can only think of people working alone, so the drywall sheets stay on the ceiling before they screw them ...but of course you can use other methods that do without glue ;)
@@Friendlyneighborhoodalien thanks for the advice, I would never try such things, it´s a waste of money and harms the enviroment, don´t worry ;) ...but it depends on the surface and the size of your drywall sheets that glue will hold directly after applying it.
aside from not gluing, yes you have less risk of cracking and screw pops because the RC can flex between joists if there is movement without forcing the drywall to flex. So the movement from wood expansion and contraction, settling and people walking on the floor above is not stressing the joints and screws nearly as much (if at all).
Hat channel is a different product. This only attaches on one side while hat channel is the same on both sides. Hat channel is only good for sound isolation when used with RC1 or Green Glue Whisper clips.
Could I install RC channel over foam board? I want to replace a drop ceiling with drywall. Ceiling joists are covered with foam board and blown in insulation above it.
I dont' see how. The foam board with crush and the RC1 is too flexible. Would be uneven and unusable. Also, even if you could the small gap could create worse sound problems due to something called the triple leaf effect.
Hey Thanks for this! I'm thinking of installing this on my wall. However, with the typical 2 x 4 stud and 1/2 inch drywall on both sides of the stud, will the width of my door plates need to widen if this is installed on one side only? Or should a 4 1/2 be fine?
It will be wider for sure. You have 2 options. Get a wider door jamb and rip it down to the new wall thickness or add a filler strip to the jamb before installing casing like in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0OnbjhZ6E-Y.html
Highly unlikely it'll slide down if there's a bit of a friction fit and it wouldn't matter anyway - without going into too much detail, wool is there to stop air-borne sound waves from travelling within the ceiling. It makes no difference if it's resting on the ceiling or not. The only important thing is that there are no gaps in it.
Are you talking about where did the little strips to avoid the wood blocking? You have to do that because the gap between RC surface and the wood (when the drywall and screw is pushing up while screwing it in) is going to be less than 1/4". It would be near impossible to not screw into the wood, short circuiting the sound isolation.
@@tylermcgonigal6031 no, I meant the screw size that goes into the wood to install the channel. Not the screw to install the drywall. Anyhow, I ended up using the 1 1/4 inch screws and it worked out just fine. But for the drywall I used 1 inch fine thread screws, in conjunction with marking the studs to make sure I didn't hit them. Its unfortunate to say but, due to money and transportation issues im still working on that same renovation lol. But thanks for helping though Tyler 👍
Rc2 is basically just a metal furring strip, rc1 provides a levelling and an acoustic benefit... rc2 would be used to give you uniform attachment points or to change direction of the mounting surface... I am sure there are other reason for using rc2, but that’s basically it
@@Friendlyneighborhoodalien hat track is similar but not the same . Hat track is u Shaped with flanges on both sides. Can be used in a similar fashion.
Green glue is supposed to be sandwiched between two layers of drywall. Essentially doubling your cost and for the outcome Rez bar will be better. I’ve done triple think insulating and then a 6 layer ceiling . That was sound proof. It all depends on how much you want to spend .
Decoupling is the first and best step in sound transfer reduction. Using a green glue type product with two layers of drywall should only really be done after you have decoupled with RC1 or hat channel and clips (and insulation in the cavity). If you just slap on a second layer of drywall with GG onto an existing wall you will hear a little reduction in some frequencies but typically it will not be the time, money and trouble.
@@Friendlyneighborhoodalien Did you use Green glue at all? I have watched GG website on how to install and it seems they want you to use 2 tubes !!! Per 4 x 8 sheet....at Amazon prices that’s 40 extra per sheet. They way they show it just Willy Nillyed on the surface with no measured depth is a waste. I plan to use 1 tube and a 1/8” notched trowel to evenly lay a layer out between the sheets. At work I lay industrial seal between aluminum and we roll it on to a specified thickness. When you take things apart you can see the even distribution everywhere. I think St Gobain just wants your money and has only done some of the science work...I’m planning on recording my initial semi scientific tests in relation to my room and see what the measured results are. Also going to test the GG on 2x2 section of sandwiched 1/2 drywall sheets to see the distribution amount.
Great sound proofing measure. Decouples the rooms. Acoustic sealant all the gaps before taping and you have what most recording studios use on their ceilings. And I'd know ive built a few:-D
sounds like some keyboard warrior had nothing better to do than try to claim he knows better than experts in their field on a subject he knows nothing about..
Lol you are funny. It works great and the two reasons you do not hear much about it is, first, because new condos have cement floor which is even better. Second, because it is very expensive. That said, in an old house where you cannot use those, doubling the gypsum is sufficient. If you are lucky enough to have a ceiling above 8', you can even had a piece «Forenz / 1x3». That said, Ben should have noted the acoustic isolation provided by the fiber wool is essential. You do need to use both: the RC helps regarding structure movement, walking and stomping but does not do much regarding music, kids shouting or just loud TV,
Resilient Channel is ment to be between sheets of gyprock it creates space between the sheets so sound and heat gets trapped this is how it is ment to be used there for buddy you are WRONG. Sorry to burst your bubble but who ever taught you didn't have the proper training either
