Good question. There was lath on the whole floor, I cut it to fit in every nook and cranny. I think what you are seeing is some areas had two layers of lath and some were single. You need at least an inch of overlap, but in some areas I had much more because it was easier to have a lot of overlap than to cut each piece precisely for the minimum overlap.
If the holes go all of the way through the subfloor, yes. If that’s the case, you will need to seal the holes using caulk, or add a thin layer of luan to the sub floor.
No need to remind be them. Just pour the concrete level with the top of them and leave them. If one happens to stick out a little after, you could use a grinder to take it down to flush.
You could do it in either order, but I find it easier to measure height without the lathe in place first. It’s also much easier to work without crawling around on sharp metal lathe. If you switch the order, make sure you’re up to date on your tetanus shot!
I usually don't seal the seems that run along the joists Subfloor is most likely nailed or screwed tightly to joists and possibly glued so there is no risk of self leveling compound running through But seems that go across the joists, definitely
Im laying some plywood over OSB sub-floor to fill large areas then leveler to feather out. Installing laminate flooring. Cant imagine I need lath. especially since I'm feathering to zero and its just laminate?
If you are feathering in to fill small areas, you don’t want lath. It may be more likely to crack, but that shouldn’t be a problem under laminate. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
Thanks for this video brother will be putting laminate floors in, in a few days. Hope my floors level but most of the stuff they did to this house isn’t up to par. So I’ll prob be coming back on this Ty again!
If you have a low spot, you can fill that part of the floor with self leveling underlayment. If you have a high spot, you would need to fill all of the low spots on the rest of the floor. Make sure that you are pouring directly on clean, primed concrete or exterior grade plywood for proper bonding. If I were doing the job, I would remove all of the laminate flooring to level the subfloor. Good luck and thanks for watching!
The metal lathe is per the manufacturers recommendation printed on the bag. I don’t know all of the reasons, but my assumption is it reinforces the concrete just like rebar would in a normal concrete pour to make it stronger and resist cracking and shifting.
Not all of the self-leveling compounds require metal lath. I know for certain that Henry 565 & LevelQuick do… but many of the Ardex and Mapei self-leveling compounds do not. It really depends on what the person is using and on what substrate
The lath will prevent cracking, but you can’t use it with a skin coat (it would be thinner than the skin coat). Since you aren’t using it as a base for tile, you could probabaly get away without lath and going full thinkness, but I’ve never tried it.
I'm not claimiing it's the right way, but I had the same situation, and only put lath where it would be covered. beyond that it tapers with no lath. Will it hold? Only time will tell.
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If you are using this for LVP, maybe. If using this for tile, it’s necessary to ensure that it doesn’t crack later. I would rather have the overkill than a cracked floor.
Hi, my subfloor is too thin and is not leveled. I want to add a plywood, do i need to add leveler first or do i place the plywood first then use the leveler compound? Also, do i need to have the 1.25" subfloor under a bathtub or can I just leave that 3/4"? Thanks
Plywood first, then the leveler. Up to you wether you want to reinforce the floor under the tub. Should be fine either way. If not adding under the tub, I would suggest having the tub in place before applying the floor leveler.
@@brianherald5756 you could do either. If the tub is out, I would pour leveler across the whole floor. If tub is already in, I would just caulk between floor and tub and seal the part getting tile.
You're one of the few people that followed the instructions and used a metal lath. Would a 1/8 pour be thick enough to encapsulate the lath? If you could link the lath you used, that would be appreciated!
I think you probably need 1/4” to cover the lath. I don’t think 1/8” will cover well. You might sneak by with 3/16”, but if using as the backer for direct laying tile on top, 1/4” minimum is recommended by the manufacturer. Here is the lath I used: Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. www.homedepot.com/p/27-in-x-96-in-2-5-Metal-Lath-Galvanized-4113145/312485681
It depends on how far out of level and flat your floor is (the further out the more you will need. Estimate the average thickness that you will pour, then use the chart here to estimate how many bags you will need (www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/levelquik-rs-rapid-setting-self-leveling-underlayment). Always buy some extra bags. This stuff sets fast, so you won’t have time to go buy more before the first batch sets. You can return the excess. As a rule of thumb maximum coverage for a bag is about 1 sheet of plywood (32 sq ft) at 1/8" thick.
Underlayment will only take care of very minor flatness issues. Must sub floors are not as flat as necessary for tile or LVP. If they aren’t flat, you can have issues with cracking of tiles or soft spots in a floating floor. The soft spots can lead to breakage of the locking mechanism of the planks and then gaps in the floor.
I set the laser level at what I thought was the high spot, the. Measured the height of the laser on a yard stick right next to the laser level. Measured other locations around the room to see if any were higher on the laser line. If the floor is clean and smooth, you can also use a level and move around until you find a point that the floor slopes away from in all directions. If you use a level, check to make sure that you don’t have more than one high spot. Thanks for watching!
The primer helps the self-leveling underlayment adhere and cure properly. It’s necessary for the brand I use. Read the instructions for whatever brand you plan to use and if they suggest a primer, make sure that you use the one they recommend. Note that the primer is a special primer for self-leveling underlayment and there are different dilution instructions depending on the type of subfloor. It is not standard painting primer. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
Start by calculating the square footage and the average thickness that you will pour. Then use the chart here to estimate how many bags you will need (www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/levelquik-rs-rapid-setting-self-leveling-underlayment). Always buy some extra bags. This stuff sets fast, so you won’t have time to go buy more before the first batch sets. You can return the excess. As a rule of thumb maximum coverage for a bag is about 1 sheet of plywood (32 sq ft) at 1/8" thick.
It’s actually recommended by the manufacturer if you are going over a wood floor. I’d rather install the lath and not actually need it than skip it and have a cracked floor later.
With Level Quick RS, you can lay tile directly as long as you reinforce it with steel and pour at least 1/4” thick. Over two years later and my 32” square tile that I laid on this floor looks great.
Yes, you should use it everywhere if using LevelQuik RS as a backer for tile. If you are using a different product to just fill in the low spots for LVP, you may be able to get away without it, check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the product you plan to use.
@@gateslattes4686 because I was using the floor lever as my backing for tile (and not adding another layer like HardieBoard, I used the lath everywhere and poured everything at least 1/4” thick.
