I watched this video just to see new bike parts. They are like unicorns in these times. External brake hoses are beautiful to me... Thanks, as always, for the great tips!
I wish I had watched this a few hours ago. I can confirm that if "when in doubt hold things" is great advice. I had mine on the bars and the oil just poured out!
Thank God the olive was already installed on my brand-new XT deore brakes. I was bummed out at the prospect of having to go out tomorrow and buy some brass olives. When I called Jensen USA to order front and rear brakes I consulted a gear tech on the phone to make sure I ordered everything I needed. Initially I was pissed off that he didn’t recommend a pair of olives. Thanks to your video, I realized it was already installed without having to take the whole thing apart to find out. Good job Syd!
For anybody listening, but not watching the video. Please do not use a crescent wrench (generically called adjustable wrench). Use the correctly shown 8mm open ended wrench or spanner. Crescent wrenches (adjustable) can round off / strip what you're trying to work on.
you can use whatever tool as long as you know what you're doing. some cheap wrenches actually have too much play and can strip the bolt as well. nothing wrong with adjustable as long as you set them correctly
@4:00 the mark on the hose is NOT a cut line, it is an insertion mark. If you cut the hose then you need to remark the length so you know it's inserted fully.
It’s crucial to properly torque the bolt to crush the olive and ensure the brake hose does not come out. Ask me how I know: I never torqued in the past, had a crash, brake hose was pulled out. Without proper torque you will never know if your brakes are safe. Suggest adding this to your video. Appreciate all the content you produce! Keep it coming.
just installed a Saint front brake the only issue I've had is pulling that plastic pin that prevents the lever from moving pre install, giving me fits! Always something
Thanks for the videos guys. Just an aside, your fork maintenance vid is probably more useful to me for doing a lower service on my sodding Suntour fork, than the actual videos on the Suntour YT page. They do take you through all the steps, but they don't mention anything about how much oil to squirt in. Good grief......
I mean that tool looks nice and all, but how many people have that kind of tools at home? Chances are if you have the tool you don't really need a "how to" to use it.. sidecutters and yellow vice blocks gets the job done for us normal people..
No video but it's pretty straightforward: Unscrew the bolt that holds the brake line into the lever (it's better to do this with the lever removed from the handlebars). Pull the brake line out (it will have the olive crushed onto the end). If you need to remove the brake line from the frame and it's internally routed, you'll need to trim enough of the line to remove the olive and barb then pull the line out (it stays connected to the caliper). To reinstall you'll need a new barb and olive and to do a lever bleed as you'll likely lose some fluid as you pull the line out.
I just replaced the rear brake hose on a frame b/c the existing hose was too short. I used a box cutter to cut the hose and hose vise clamp ($14) to hold the hose while tapping in the barb/insert with a mallet. Lots of videos online show this technique, it worked fine, and I did not have to buy an expensive brake hose barb inserting tool. :).
Still blows my mind that somewhere in history someone decided it would a good idea to have the brake levers on the opposite sides of the handlebars depending on what hemisphere you are in. Unlike with driving sides of the road (who knows what side is actually better) being in NZ we have the most powerful, front brake actuated by the most powerful & most dominant hand... The right side 🙂
But here we have the rear shifter on the same side as the rear brake 😉 And I'm pretty sure the reason it's different is because driving on different sides of the road and being able to signal with the outside arm while keeping your hand on the rear brake.
The imperial measuring system and the idiots that use it is worse. Imagine measuring stuff in fractions of a random ass number rather than the simply beautiful base 10 system that metric is
Excellent. Separated parts also allow changing hands: dominant hand on the front brake....allows greater dexterity of dominant hand to help with feathering front brake. Non-dominant on rear prevents its on/off action (less dexterity) from causing endos, and frees up right hand for feeding while still controlling speed with left/rear brake.
Good point on a mtb, also in the UK for example brakes are on the other side. So you can execute a right turn signal whilst using just one, rear being safer, brake
if you have always ridden motorcycles before it helps to switch sides. For the trail it may be better to be able to shift the rear derail while controlling the rear brake instead of the front one.
Purchased a brand new Trek Dual Sport, after 10 rides the Shimano front break completely failed. Is this normal for a NEW BIKE? As a new bike owner, this was a bit surprising to visit the shop so soon. Any comments ?
I swapped a set of XT brakes to XTR (2 piston) on my Orbea Oiz last winter. Assumed that the brake lines were the same... except that the XTRs dont use the banjo bolt (4 pistons do), so... internal routing and really pissed about it, took a cup of coffee and onto rerouting the new brake cables.
10:18 Don't fill the cup with that (huge) amount of mineral oil. Half of it is more than enough. No need to contaminate the oil more than you have to with dust, flakes, residues in the cup, residues pulled and pushed into the cup, water from the humidity in the air ..., ... . Again: half of that is more than enough for a lever bleed. With the amount shown here, you can fill the whole brake line.
Good video. Why is only a lever bleed done and not a full bleed which entails lever and caliper brake port? I'm new to this and I will be installing new brakes so I would like to know when to do a lever bleed and when to do a full bleed. Thanks.
Full bleed is for replacing the fluid in the lines which is necessary occasionally (once or twice a year, depending on how much you ride). Or if you have air in the middle of your lines (which is hard to do). Lever bleed is for getting air out of the lever which is the most common and what happens when you shorten a brake line.
This is better than the park tools video, but that one is good too.. I saw one comment that mentioned the olive was not pre-installed in his xt lever, is there any harm in removing the screw to check first? I'm assuming since it's not tighten yet, that it's not going to compress the olive if just checking.. Or can you visually see the olive thru the hole? Thanks
Great video. Any plans to do a video about cable disc brakes and adjusting those? Could use some pointers on adjusting the pad spacing and adjusting cable tension on cable disc brakes.
We don't have any cable actuated disc brakes, so probably not unfortunately. From memory, assuming only one side is moving (which is common for mechanical disc), you want the static side as close to the rotor as possible without rubbing and then tighten the cable until the pad that moves is similarly close.
Depends. Those are used when you need to use a brake mount adapter, so if you need an adapter. For example if your fork or frame is designed for 160mm rotors but you're using 180mm, you'll need a 20mm adapter which uses the semi-spherical spacers.
Hey quick question that I think you are best to ask. I am going with the Ari nebo with shimano xt brakes but was thinking shimano xt or xtr for the drive train. Also could go with gx axis. I am pretty happy with xt on my analog bike. Thoughts?? Love you guys here in Canada cheers!
I'd say no need to upgrade to XTR for the drivetrain. It's lighter, but that's it and since the Nebo has a motor anyway. We run full XT on our Nebos. And if you use the code "sydandmacky" at checkout you can get a free tubeless upgrade (just make sure you've added it to your cart).
Is it ok to hang a bike with hydraulic brakes brakes vertical from the front tire like the bikes in your workshop, hydraulic fluid wont leak out and contaminate pads?
As long as your hydraulic system doesn't have leaks, there is no issue with doing so. If you have leaks in the system, it doesn't matter how you store it, you will lose braking power and likely contaminate the pads depending on where the leak is.
thanks for this video Syd & Macky - everything worked *almost* perfectly :D with the new Shimano Deore XT 4 piston brakes. BUT - i forgot to put the rubber dust boot on BEFORE i put the brake line into the master cylinder at the lever! OOPS! i tried to get that line back out but it was too late, i didn't realize once you put the line in the 'olive' that compression nut keeps the line from coming out.. so... now what! :P Any ideas? seemed impossible to redo that. thanks again though my brakes work fine just missing a boot. :(
Been there! Your options are either ride it without the boot (no issues aside from aesthetics) or cut the boot, install it and electrical tape it back together.
Because you don't want to pull the lever while bleeding the brakes without anything between the pads (shim or rotor) or you'll have to reset the pistons (and the bleeding won't work).
Hey, can you PLEASE help me? Is there a trick to remove that yellow stopper on te inside of the lever? Am I just being to careful? I can't get it out even pulling hard!
@@sydfixesbikesThanks! I've done this a few times before and it's always been easy. This time it was totally stuck and had to pull it out with pliers, pulling extremely hard!
Not necessary for a lever bleed. For a full bleed, yes, but after installing new brakes the won't be any air bubbles lower in the system, so you just need a lever bleed and don't have to worry about the caliper being the lowest point
No. Shifter housing cutters squeeze the line and are made to cut through the metal strands in the housing. Using them on a brake line will screw up the end of your brake line. Better to carefully use a sharp knife (like an exacto).
Newb here. How does the barb allow for oil to pass through? I ask because I forgot to install the barb after shortening my new brake line. The factory one looked like it didn't have one on so i didn't re-install it. (I was wondering why they felt weak even after a bleed, I now know why. I'm still confused though as to how it works)
The barb is a hollow tube sorta thing. We've never seen what happens when you don't install it, but I suspect the barb keeps the brake hose from squishing together when you install it in the lever. So by forgetting it, I suspect as the olive crushes (that's what happens as you tighten that nut around the brake hose into the lever) it's squeezing the brake hose and that's limiting the amount of oil that can pass through.
What if I accidentally pressed the lever and a little bit of oil jumped out?(these are the deore bl-m6100 and they are new) Is it broken now or i just need to put new mineral oil in all the conduct and everything?
hi, i fitted new pads in my shimano deore front brake. problem i have is the wheel will not rotate now. how do i fix this. no gap in pads for rotation.
hi, newbee here, tried to follow your instruction on how to install shimano easy hose joint system hydraulic brake, when i bleed it ,it leaks along the hose and connecting bolt.pls advise..thanks
Sounds like you may have forgotten the olive and/or barb or didn't hold the hose deep enough in place when installing it. Unfortunately you'll probably need to pull it apart and try again (and you will probably need a new olive).
@@sydfixesbikes hi there, thanks for your reply, you are right, the olive inside probably not aligned properly, so I removed it and replaced with a new one and made sure I pushed the cable hard enough while tightening the bolt..viola !!! no more leaks...
It is refreshing to see a woman leading a bike mechanics video! A little well-meaning feedback: it would be better if the cameraman was not backseat mechanic-ing (or telling Syd she looks cute in a hat)...🙄Otherwise, keep it up!
You should watch our channel trailer (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yizxxFW7-Qg.html), it explains that the idea behind this channel is that Macky is teaching me to work on bikes. He has a lot more experience working on bikes and until recently did all the bike work for both of us. That's why he's providing advice, suggestions, and teaching me while I actually do the work so I can learn.
I think it's helpful that there are places in the video that emphasize part names and processes that a typical DIY bike owner might goof up, so this combo of trainee and Master mechanic works out great in videos for the intended audience. Not to mention, it's sweet that they put some of their relationship on camera. If this were a movie, we'd say oh that's like real life.
