How to Install Solid Hardwood Floors 

yes I just think it's ridiculous when all these stupid videos tell you to leave 3/4 of an inch of a gap then your Nailling the wood to the floor how is it supposed to move a full 3/4 of an inch. All you need is a quarter inch to a half of an inch is way more than enough and then you could just cover it with average baseboard of your choice and no shoe moulding that looks ridiculousI.

@@wallyj2000 what is the video about

@@jeremynguyen2346 I’m assuming you watch the video it’s about installing laminate/hardwood flooring

@@wallyj2000 what tools are needed

@ Prefinished wood or unfinished?

Monika Mikucka NOOOOO! You would have a mess eventually.Be 2 or 3 years or 8 or 10.No matter what addheivis was used on tile it will eventually fail.Look for video putting hardwood on concrete and it should work fine.And you can leave tile.Good Luck!. Hopefully this will help.

That’s sad how you thought this looks hard

That’s what she said. Ooh!

😂😂 I thought you gonna do it lol

I know its months later, but the odds of being able to match a floor perfectly is extremely hard if not impossible, unless you are buying a refinished hardwood flooring, and still it could be tough because factories have minor differences in products over the years, plus your floors most likely have been effected by years of exposure. And if you buy new raw wood and plan on matching the stain it can be tough because every piece of wood accepts the stain differently which is why even when staining wood from the same package each piece of wood has a slightly different color.

Many stores do, but it varies by location. Give your local store a quick call to find out. Thanks for watching, Christian!

Mach, you may want to watch the prep video for details on underlayment options. You'll find it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-afrUJ1YBtdE.html and a tools & materials list is included in the article: low.es/1BJHa1T. Thanks for watching.

Hammer and nail set is simpler in that you're just using those tools to do the job. The down side is inconsistency: as you get tired the fastenings may get less tight which can cause issues getting rows correct. A pneumatic nailer applies consistent pressure; the last board will be just as tight as the first. Thanks for watching.

So, you CAN manually nail the boards (shown in the video), but it would take quite a bit longer...particularly when you're blind nailing into the tongue-and-groove. You'd need to use pilot holes and a nail setter for each one. Might be worth getting a nail gun!

Would someone please tell me what it means when you just list a name???!!! No comment following but just the name!!! Why????????!!!!!

Tarek, you need to stop manual nailing, its a waste of time. Wood always splits with slow hammer blows, and invariably you will hit your fingers with the hammer! Go to Home Depot. Look for a deal on their Porter Cable Compressor with 3 tools package for $150 - $199. Should be sales on Black Friday. It should have a Stapler, Brad Nailer, Finish Nailer (larger one) included with the compressor package. It is brain dead simple to operate all 3, and great fun too! You buy nails for these that look like staples, and slide them in. Attach nailer to compressor hose, fill up compressor with air by plugging in, and presto! you are now nailing rapidly. Fix your fence, glue wood, fill up your tires and soccer balls, clean out your keyboard with compressed air, do upholstery, fill guest air mattress, so many uses!!! The compressor is small and you can carry it around easily. Manual nailing time is over.

Lol ok thx for info

What if you have concrete under it? I'm replacing some of the wooden panels on the floor. It wasn't nailed in

jonntischnabel expansion gap at edges allows the floor to expand and contract as needed. Thanks for watching our video.

***** It is very excessive. Normally you would go with 1/4"

jonntischnabel The expansion gap isn't part of the finished floor, it's normally removed after installation/finishing to a floor. Commonly though, it's used to give proper space measurements to give an even length to grow.

I thought they typically had the gap so you could add molding to the walls afterwards

esterfam1621 and

esterfam1621 73

kevin xu for this product nailing is correct installation, make sure to check the instructions on product you purchase. Thanks for watching our video.

Lowe's Home Improvement thanks for reply . but my contractor told me the nails won't be strong enough to hold the floor. the floor will moving or shrink after time.

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nothing beats glueing down the timber, i glue all my floors down without nails, just make sure the subfloor is level.

ikr

Why can't you do it then?

Most wood putty is stainable, so you'll be able to blend it in according to your wood tone.

I agree.

Sorry, don't understand your question.

Kennedy Wong you still want to use underlayment even if there’s subfloor, most likely for a vapor barrier!

Keeps it from squeaking, use red rosin paper.

No DIY, no problem. Lowe's installs flooring www.lowes.com/cd_Flooring+Install_537821279_ Thanks for watching.

***** you'll find a complete tools & materials list - including the pneumatic flooring nailer - here low.es/1F2uJOg. Thanks for watching our video.

Thanks!

moisture barrier

danbiss87 got it figured out. The device I was using wasn't giving proper reading.

Hi, Tarek. Short answer is yes; not all nail guns are pneumatic (powered by air). Check out our nail gun buying guide to get the info you need to choose the right one: low.es/2cenYrr. Thanks for watching.

Lowe's Home Improvement

yes the funny fitting I ever seen hahhahahahahahahah

Google Paslode.

ControlCardPin Gonna have to agree with the OP. Quality assurance departments exist for this reason. Other than post packaging warpage, I fail to see any valid excuse for there to be damage or inferior goods in there. I would have to guess this must be some industry standard that "everyone" simply accepts.

Natural yes, but it is still manufactured. Not the consumer's problem if the manufacturer is shipping and selling defective boards.

Warped wood is extremely difficult to weed out, if you walk down the lumber isle at every hardware store almost every piece of wood will be warped in one way or another, you can pay extra and get wood that has gone through different processes and will be warped less but still it will have some deformities. The same thing applies to flooring the only difference between a 2x4 and flooring is the wood type and they cut it out in a different shape, but both are wood and will change shape and size depending on the temperature, humidity (and I am sure other factors). Between the time it is manufactured/cut and the time you use it on the floor the wood will have dried out or absorbed moisture, it will probably been exposed to a variety of temperatures. When installing flooring you never buy the exact amount of flooring that you would theoretically need, you typically by 5-10% more depending on a few factors. The same thing goes when buying wood for construction. Next time you go to a hardware store you will likely find people picking up the wood and staring at it or even measuring it to pick out the least warped wood and they will almost always buy a few extra pieces of lumber just incase they missed the warping. The warping in the wood will happen no matter what kind of untreated wood you buy. As for damaged thats another issue, I have installed probably close to 40-50k sqft of hardwood in the past few years and I am yet to run across any hardwood that has a significant amount of damage. Often there might be small dents or scratches but they come out when you sand the floors. The only bad pieces I have seen are some knots in the wood that are to big and they usually only span a few inches, and if I really cared I could bring it back to the flooring supplier and they would give me a new board but its not worth the headache for a few inches of wood. If the wood has water damage/rot or has termite wholes or other infestations that would be a whole different story. I always inspect the wood in the store/warehouse before taking it with me, and once again if I took it with me and then later noticed the damage they would take it back. But when dealing with any unprocessed wood you have to expect it to not be perfect.

Levi k

music

Bert Hull riiiiiiiight lol

Yair Celis didn't even explain if the other side of the room in line with the outside wall. Just drop and lay? What if there's a bow in the wall? 🤔😂

The video mentions that already, he said start where you have already snapped a line.

Do we detect sarcasm, Nun? :)

no not at all. I'm saying I could do this myself. but I'm a diy kind of guy to

Sounds like you're a confident DIY-er who won't have any problem with this project. Thanks for watching.

How do you deal with walls being squared to avoid having huge gaps at the other end or having boards not straight when crossing a doorway?

Lee Love Always try to measure off of an exterior wall. They're usually the straightest in a home. If the room doesn't have an exterior wall, you can measure from wall to wall on one side of the room, make a mark, then do the same on the other side of the room. Pop a chalk line, then transfer that line to the wall and start with that line. Of course, you should be starting in a room that has an exterior wall.

Hi Jessica. Which lingo is getting you stuck?

ac·cli·mate (Dictionary.com) /ˈakləˌmāt/ Learn to pronounce verbNORTH AMERICAN verb: acclimate; 3rd person present: acclimates; past tense: acclimated; past participle: acclimated; gerund or present participle: acclimating become accustomed to a new climate or to new conditions. "it will take a few days to get acclimated to the altitude" TECHNICAL respond physiologically or behaviorally to a change in an environmental factor under controlled conditions. BOTANY•HORTICULTURE harden off (a plant).

GeneralMartinus Wood is natural product so variations are inevitable; checking out the boards before installing helps you get the best result. Thanks for watching our video.

GeneralMartinus Generally you'd buy wood in bundles. Disfigured boards or extremely warped boards are not not normally put in bundles unless over seen by inspectors of a mill, however, boards that are mildly warped/damaged are kept due to practical reasons such as cost and efficiency. Trees aren't mass produced in factories. This means that trees are all susceptible to water damage, molding, and other harmful things. To remove every bad board would be very costly and efficient to the environment. Bundles are graded though. Based on how particular you want your floor to look and how wide your budget range is, you could easily purchase a high grade of wood.

If I go to my local hardware store and I buy something like this, I am able to bring back the warped pieces and get better ones. Does Lowes do this?

More than likely not. Lowes really isn't a place you'd want quality floora from.

Right, which was my point. A company which basically tells you "Yeah, you're gonna get some warped pieces." then doesn't stand behind replacing said pieces is plain shit.

Most people do not rip up their subfloor to put down solid hardwood. I have yet to have a single customer ask me to put their 10,000 solid hardwood floor to their floor joists