Learn How to Install Hardwood Floors | DIY Projects 

Becomes really hard to sell your house with such an sentimental value.

@@ihabiano what is a flooring nailer

That is really cool

wow that is beyond cool.......thanks for sharing this

🔥🔥

I thought bit seemed a bit much 👍

Manufacturers require 3/4 expansions. If not, you void your warranty. I wouldn’t risk it especially on a large area. It’s too much work to not follow instructions

@@bbates9332 same

I was a bit thrown back there. By baseboards are only 3/8th

A warranty against what ? If you want a 3/4” gap, go ahead. That means you must instal quarter round.

Don't forget to pay for permits if necessary in your county.

it's just like laminate only you're nailing them in instead.

Katalyst552 lol exactly

same

normie

You can buy the raw wood for $4/sqft and tools for a few hundred. Another few hundred to rent sander and apply polyurethane (the easiest part). Going rate for pro hardwood install is $15/sqft. For my 2000 sqft project, that would be $30,000! Versus $10,000 to DIY it.

Morgan Brown $30,000 my ass

Yea don't bite off more than you can chew, skip

@@Zodiac581 You always bite off more than you can chew on your first few projects. Thats why you need to have a second income while flipping the first few houses as you will always spend alot on mistakes. However, if youre willing to keep going even through the mishaps, you will learn fast and learn better than anyone could teach you. This goes for every trade. Its really not that horrible.

​@@christianhviid2167❤🫡

I agree with the comments below. Understand that videos make things look ten times easier than they are.

Does every wood have the same measurements for expansion or does it varies?

Depends more on room size than wood species. Large rooms require larger gap.

Agreed! I only use 3/8” gap then I don’t have to install a shoe giving a much cleaner look

I was thinking the exact same thing. I hate using shoe molding unless I absolutely have to

They're stoned that's way too much

Yes , it deducts any additional labor costs. Considering that you don't mess up a lot of your hardwood planks.

U dont have to put paper

I AM lmao

blacks... amirite?

@@ikichullo tf is wrong with you

Never heard that before - “I feel like a sponge dropped in a bucket of water”. But I 100% truly understand what you mean. Brilliant way to put it.

yes, straight to the point too. watched loads of these and I get tired of people introducing themselves and telling me about THEIR house and THEIR problems and THEIR pizza. good job Lowes

At Lowe's, of course. 🤣

You can just rent them. However, some homeowners end up getting these over time. I've owned a home for the last 20 or so years. The only thing I'm missing is a flooring nailer and chalk line (though I may have a chalk line in a box in the attic or I may have lost it, but I had one at some point).

We're glad you found this helpful, LaShon! 💙

Do you actually have to wait 72 hours with the boards are in room temperature

@Generation Identity yea don't put a 3/4 expan gap for one thing 3/8ths is more than enough

Ive watched different videos that show it much easier todo than this one. There are so many videos out there. I take a piece of knowledge from each one 😉

It's wood.

it isnt titanium wood bends bows and takes in moisture as it waits to be bought that's just how it is

A 1/2" expansion gap is perfect, 👍🔨🇮🇪

My father use trickes and make the wood floor easy to install

@@ilamkipyaas7304 What are trickes?

These are skills that are understood by watching not theoretical

They catering to all the suburban homes not the projects

They explained concrete

You understand "tongue & groove," right? One side of the board has a tongue on one side, a groove on the other side. You will install each board by inserting the groove end over the tongue of the last board you put down. The tongue of the last board holds the groove side of the new board firm. Then you nail along the tongue edge, at a 45 degree angle, on top of the tongue, not on the face of the board. So one sided is held down by the tongue of the previous board, and the other side is held down by the nails into the tongue side along the top edge of the tongue. The nail will be hidden when the next board's groove is placed over the tongue of the last board. Gee.... was that a serious question of were you pulling my leg and I fell for it?

@Falcon faxs

Jim DiFiglia lmao 1000’s in tools tf are you buying? More like 200 or 300 in tools

Add up all the tools you'll need unless your renting the tools. A Compressor, A Nail Gun, A Compressor Hose, Nails, A Chop Saw, A Undercut Saw, A Ruler, A Rubber Mallet A Pry Bar and some silly little odds and ends. With 2 to 3 hunderd dollars your lucky if you just can just purchase the Compressor.

@@lifeonwheels9802 Most of these people that do these DIY already have the tools. No one is going to go out and purposely buy 5 different tools to do a single job

Bafoons you can even rent the tools ..jeez

can be done with the basic hand tools..

Besides the aesthetics, it adds additional strength & stability to the floor.

first off my dads a Union carpenter for 25 + yrs....you stagger the joints as to not create a "seam" that would ultimately be a weak spot , prone to breaks and gaping (*^_^*)

Zoë Gurick that what he said fucktard

@@zoegurick9159 glad your dad is a union carpenter. What are you a?

What is the best thing to use, if nails are not the best thing to use.

@@philipbrown9470 keep gape half inches of surrounding

ILAM KI PYAAS what?

You should use whatever the manufacture recommends you use. If they say use glue (like with some pergo tile) then use glue. If they say use nails then use nails. The last thing you want is to have all that material look like crap after a couple of years and try to file a claim with the manufacture only to have them laugh at you for installing the material using the wrong method.

Lay a plywood subfloor above the concrete with a moisture barrier in between the concrete and plywood. Bam now u have a wood subfloor

Also, you can use both Moisture barrier in between the concrete and plywood but do extra work to be sure no moisture will penetrate -use ceramic paint I used Behr water barrier paint but at the end, I decided I do not want to risk at all and installed ceramic tiles and now my basement in really dry. I will use underlayment and area rugs. Hardwood is nice and warm but one water problem and you are in deep trouble.

@@EPICSOUNDTRAX Skip the plywood, use engineered flooring and a decent underlayment with vapor barrier. Float the floor using click loc. Easy. Way easier than putting down plywood or gluing.

That's the purpose of the expansion joints along the edges. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's guidelines for spacing and acclimation of the boards prior to installation.

stick with a floating floor or vinyl plank .also sand is easier to clean as the seams in the wood would collect the sand and moisture would then cause it to expand , separating your boards

finchy3394 aesthetics

aesthetics

the fact that it expands when nailed can cause damage. can expand due to heat and moisture

Oh boy, you have to see a European herringbone hardwood expanding so much creating a big hill in the middle of the room. The hill was so big you could climb it and touch the ceiling. I swear I have seen it . Somebody locked the floor so tight against the walls the only option the floor had was to go up in the middle of the room. This is a common problem in Europe.