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Here's the thing. I saved a bunch of time by starting the nuts from the outside in the bed. Before you install the light, you hold the nut in the socket up to the hole in the body and see that it's lined up and then just start the first few threads. Then get the other side started and then clip the light in. All that's left is to tighten the nuts from the inside.
Huge warning to DIY'rs on a product like this. If you mess up, water will get into your vehicle and cause mold/rust. Be super careful. There is already a recall on the OEM taillight
You say this is an easy install. That’s the most bs thing ever I do not recommend even trying this install if you don’t have patience. Terrible design on the brake light they didn’t make the studs for the bolts as long as oem so it’s virtually impossible start the thread.
Just purchased this and completed the install… man we’re those 10mm bolts a b**** to take off and put back. I’m telling you if this video didn’t exist I would have given up. The tape trick worked great. Not sure how you would do it without that trick. Thanks again for sharing this. The light looks great!
Here's the thing. I save a bunch of time by starting the nuts from the outside in the bed. Before you install the light, you hold the nut in the socket up to the hole in the body and see that it's lined up and then just start the first few threads. Then get the other side started and then clip the light in. All that's left is to tighten the nuts from the inside.
I did not find this video until after I installed the light and used the TL video instead, but I wish I found this one first and it has much more detail to make things much easier. After reading all the comments and it surely helped with my installation I am here to leave my comments to help others. I wasn't looking forward to installing the light and I procrastinated for a year after buying it, due to reading some comments and also that I had the recall done in case of leaks which I never experienced. First off if you can do this with two people it would be best, but I did it solo which might have taken longer. Have patience with the install and you will get it done. Have nylon pry tools from Harbor Freight or elsewhere and they will come in handy when removing the stock light. I removed the hanger clips, dome light, top section of the rear pillars, and grab handles. If you remove the top of the pillars you should remove the door weather stripping and it makes things much easier as it loosed the feet that are under it. You might be able to get away with the hanger clips if you have another person to hold the headliner down while you work. When removing the nuts do not worry about dropping them because you can access them once the light is removed. Once the nuts are removed I used painter's tape around the light to protect the paint. I then worked on prying off the trim piece first and then the light. If you had the recall done it might be a little harder since Toyota sealed it up much better than stock due to leaks. Keep in mind just like the new light has there are two metal clips that you will have to use your flat pry tool and release them for the light to come out. Once out I removed all of the leftover silicone and I used a spray sticker remover which worked well. IMPORTANT: Before installing the light check to make sure the switch is operating in the correct position and lucky I did because it was backwards from the instructions, my on position did not pulse the light but instead the off position did. I used Permatex black silicone 75150 to seal the light and also on the trim piece and I want to make sure I have no leak issues in the future. The stock nuts and nuts included with the light are the exact same thread size and the head size is smaller, I used the stock nuts which I felt made things a little easier. So my fear of dropping the nut off the end of the deep socket built up anxiety. Luckily I read another comment that said to use electrical tape or plumber's putty and I went with electrical tape. It worked very well and one thing I would change would be to use a piece at least 2" or longer and it makes it that much simpler to remove off the stud once the nut is in place. The first side I was able to grab the tape with needle nose pliers pretty quickly so when doing the other side I did not think to put a longer piece on and spent thirty minutes trying to get it out and I finally was able to by loosening the nut a little. I then tightened the nuts and from that point I tested the light to make sure it was functioning correctly. I let it sit for 24 hours so I could remove the excess silicone. I then applied silicone to the trim piece and installed it and used painter's tape to keep it tight against the roof. After another 24 hours I removed the tape and cleaned up and excess silicone and check to make sure the trim piece was not loose on any of the sides. After that it was time to put the interior back together. Another tip I read online was to install the grab handles and hanger clips you have to assemble them first by installing the metal clip then plastic cover and then you can snap them into the roof. One issue I had with the pillars was that the white retainers were damaged from removal or from prior installs, they could also be dried out. I bought new ones from NAPA, 12 Trim Panel Retainers 665-5063 (Balkamp) and they worked great. One thing I learned with the retainers were to make sure you had the retainer lined up with the hole first and then press/smack it in place, if it is not lined up you will probably damage it after a few tries. I like having a pulsing brake light and anything helps to get the attention of the drivers that do not pay attention. A friend pointed out to me that the light for the bed is not as bright as the stock light and does not point as far down either, but that did not matter to me. I love the look much better and that it pulses too. If I had any negatives to say it would be to keep the length on the threaded studs the same as the stock light and it would make installing the nuts much easier. Good luck on your install and I hope I am able to help with the install.
Has anyone done the install without removing the side panel and handle? I know the Tacoma lifestyle vid doesn’t remove the whole side panel, but wondering if it’s worth it
How does the bed light turn on? My 2016 Off Road has no switch for a bed light did you tap into the dome light or something else? Is the wiring already there to somehow turn on the bed light separate from the break lights.?
This was so frustrating 5 months ago ! An now I was getting a bad plug connection not enough pressure on the coupler connection pull down it twisted it it looks like it’s working now so frustrating😢
Mine is coming in today, can’t wait to instal it and see how it looks. I’m also worried about any water getting in, but so far I haven’t seen anyone having problems with them.
Heck yea man tag me on Instagram @_jesserizo when u get it done 💪💪 and so far mine hasn’t leaked I’ve washed the truck plenty of times with the pressure washer to lol but if u want to be safe u can always lay a small layer of silicone
Jesse, just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your videos! Especially the kicker speaker replacement! Just did mine last weekend. Your detailed videos were perfectly helpful! Thanks again! ✌🏻
Did you guys use a Permatex Gasket Maker? Or just bolt it right up without any extra sealant? I have the light but a little scared to install and water starts leaking into the cab.
I would recommend laying down a small layer but it shouldn’t be needed the gasket the light comes with is pretty thick but if u want do it to be safe so u don’t have to pull it apart again later down the road
I did change my 3rd brake light like that but i just remove the 2 center hanger clips.. took me at least 45 minutes to install it.. cool videos tho.. 👍👍👍
Your video was very helpful particularly about not creasing the liner. BUT this light from Tacoma Life Style is NOT compatible with a 2023 Sport. The power connector size was changed and the female port on the light is too big. It will not snap in is very loose and I see no way to resolve the problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
To remove the headliner no I never finished the video unfortunately but as far as the whole car and carpet yes I made episodes a while back ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_vxpT62AP0M.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ipJaa5TkuvI.html
Great video! I have a couple questions: a. Does the weather strip pull that easily? b. I have a moon roof & my dome light is closer to the rear window. Does it impact the headliner ‘holding’ it up? Thanks!
No I tried getting it done because mine was leaking a little but Toyota said my vin number doesn’t fall in the recalled Tacoma’s LOL so they didn’t do it , if u notice on my headliner when we’re doing the install it has white stains that’s water marks LOL sadly but atlesst now it shouldn’t leak
You won't be able to access the switch with the light installed. If it's something you really want, maybe you could splice to extend the switch so it's accessible.
just did the install and was very frustrated when one of the clips fell down the A pillar . Took me like 30 minutes to get out but the lights look niccce
@@AFGixxeR88 the new light came with a new gasket. I would recommend getting the recall plastic piece installed as well if your truck falls into the recall.
@@ReimaginedWraps mine is a 21. I haven’t had any leaks yet. Just wondered how it would work if you replaced it with this then it leaked. This video does take some extra steps but it’s not as difficult as the forums make it seem.
@@AFGixxeR88 if you really wanted to be safe you could always run a bead of sealant around the outer edge of the light. I would hope that the company did some testing on their seals and that they hold up long term. The foam seal looked like it was good quality and would seal correctly.