Thanks Dan, excellent presentation! I found your discussion regarding the breather flapper and rotating rocker-arm shafts particularly useful. Greg R., Boise, Idaho
Great videos Dan! These videos and the info on the Hammer website is extremely valuable to all of us installing our own kits. My 04 Sportster factory manual says 18-22 ft lbs on those four big bolts on the rocker boxes. I set the wrench to 20.
I would like to thank you 🍻not knowing a DAM thing about thanking apart and fixing head gasket..your videos helpied me every step ... it runs like a champ ..... thank you ....🍻
Thanks for this entire series guys. IMO you should have shown the application of pushrod tubes and the new one piece base and gaskets. But those are pretty self explanatory if someone has the stones to do everything else this build entails. Thanks again it’s really helped clear a few steps up
Used this to guide me thru the process of installing Rocker Lockers. Made a world of difference getting it done right the first time. Thanks for an excellent video.
Thanks for making this video and explaining everything in detail , you made it look easy for most people to do . I used this video for reference while doing my 99 chief with the s&s 88ci worked perfect 👌
I have never assembled a Harley before, but I have experience assembling SR400, 5xx many times, after I read a lot of information and videos on the website, I started to feel confident to customize my Harley, so I ordered the 1275 package along with cams and other necessary parts, I hope I will do well.
Thanks for all of the videos! I am going to be assisting a friend of mine refresh a 95 sporty 1200 this winter. In some of these videos, you talk bout a motor sprocket wrench and I was hoping you could elaborate on what exactly it is since we will have to pull the motor on the bike to work on it over the winter. It seems like a handy tool. A little to cold to work on it outside during the winter in Wisconsin!
Awesome video the detail & time taken to explain how to reassemble the top end and torq settings is outstanding I’m in the process of building my own back up thx for the video it’s been a great help 👍👍
Knowledge bombs!! Thankyou, I've been trying to figure out why my front cylinder has excess blow-by. Tons of Google searches and got nothing close to "change the umbrella valve." Guess I need to order me some gaskets
My props up to the hammers outstanding way of showing and explaining...couldn't have been an easier way to learn and complete all tasks..thanks man.....
Thank you very much for your illustration. I have a question regarding “wait for the lifter to bleed down. ” That is key point mention in your video from 14:10 to 16:00. I plan to replace rocker box gaskets for both boxes because of oil leakage. Do I need to wait for 30-40 minutes when I finish with my first box gasket replacement? Hope I have made myself clear enough? Again, great video, especially for a new guy like me to Harley.
Robert I'm asking is Would you use the same method? installing the rock alarms? On a 2016 breakout in the same manner in this video. or the same way. I got distracted doing something else and I lost focus on what I was doing. If so, you have me on the right track. Just asking to make sure :
I was just thinking that a drinking straw might be a bit better to use to find TDC than the zip tie. Just a bit more rigid and wont mar piston surface.
Let's say hypothetically.. you install your front rocker box on at tdc and you have very little resistance from the lifters on that cylinder? Is that bad lifters symptoms or just need to be pumped up on start up? They have been sitting on a shelf for 8 months and then got a 48 hour oil soak before install.
If I'm changing out just the gasket on each level, do I have to mess with the push rods 🤔? I have a 883 single piston buell I'm working on and losing compression around the head area, it's an old bike that sat for a while and no work was ever done on it from the look of the carb when I first started on it. I'm interested on the upgrade top end you offer as well
Dont you use any kind of black glue (permatex) as a safety measure? I understand that the leak on the rocker boxes are quite common. I have a small one on both and am wondering if i should use the permatex or not.... Thanks
The correct crankshaft position is when the mark on the pinion gear is pointing straight toward the middle of the number two cam. Neither piston will be at TDC when you've positioned the crank this way.
Sportster motor and Buell The same... Having trouble with my head gasket on my old Blast...This vid super helpful....ere is a question though...Im doing piston, cylinder, and head...Do I need a torche plate? And also, I noticed you used only the gasket...for an older (01), Should I add some gasket sealer?
Torque plates are essential when boring and honing cylinders. The head, base, and rocker box gaskets are all supposed to be installed dry. If you don't have a factory service manual, I highly encourage you to get one before working on your engine, it's loaded with valuable information like this and much more. It's really an essential tool for working on these bikes. Only get the HD service manual, the aftermarket manuals are awful by comparison.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE I do have the manual actually...Thank you for the tip. When confronted with potentially conflicting info, its always best to check with the pros! And, yes, the after market manual inst the greatest...lol
Hi Dan, i have recently converted my 1996 Sportster 883 to 1200, i think to have done all that it's required and rode the bike a few miles but I noticed an oil spouting on the rear cylinder, the exhaust covers and the pushrods cover present a light film of clean oil sweating, what do you think ??, I have changed all the seals to new and even the valves stem seals, shall I re-check the rocker box bolts a re-torque?? i am sure the rear cylinder needs attention..maybe the rear exhaust bolts needs re-torque?? please let me know, thanks Salvatore.
Been watching a lot of your videos doing my conversion kit, after getting the front cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and torquing down the lower rocker box assembly, I wait and keep looking into my intake and exhaust of my head, the valves just don’t seem to be closing. I thought it may have been a stuck lifter at first, so I tore the top end back down and replaced the lifters with some new fueling hydraulic lifters and I’m getting the same problem. I’ve put the cams in several times now and I’m fairly certain that they are correct. Any input?
HAMMER PERFORMANCE I was using a set of -60 solid push rods which I was told would be the right length from the company that did the stage 2 headwork on my heads, starting to lean towards an adjustable push rod now to avoid bending any valves.
@@Xxcdr97xX Well, as described at that article I linked you to, a hydraulic lifter is self adjusting. To the extent your pushrods are too short, the lifter lengthens itself to take up the slack, and to the extent your pushrods are too long, the lifter shortens itself to make the valve rest on the seat and keep it from hanging open when it's supposed to be closed. So the exact length of the pushrod is not important, all that matters is that it preloads the lifter plunger within it's self-adjusting range. One way to accomplish that preload within range is to get pushrods of the correct length range. That link I gave you shows how to make sure yours are of the right length range. Another method is to use adjustable pushrods. But as compared to a non-adjustable setup, an adjustable is weaker and it introduces more potential failure points and it's more expensive. So in our view, it's taking a shortcut on getting the preload correct, but it costs more and it's less reliable. That's why we put customers into non-adjustable, heat treated chrome moly pushrods for their builds instead of adjustables, and while we can predict and supply the correct length more than 90% of the time, we still show them how to check it while assembling their valvetrain, just to make sure.
Are then rockers the same for intake and exhaust?? I disassembled them all to clean are the interchangeable from intake to exhaust???or is intake and exhaust rockers specific to there placement?1996 Harley 1200. Stock rockers
The front intake and rear exhaust as the same as each other. Likewise the rear intake and front exhaust are the same as each other. But different from the other two.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE if it’s all dissembled for a cleaning how do recognize the back cylinder rockers from the front. It’s sound like your saying ea cylinder has the same rockers as a set but ea set is different from one another?
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE oh oh or maybe I’m reading into it to much yes they are different because the orientation in relation the the valve and push rod makes them different but as long as there over the valve and push rod they are interchangeable. I think I understand
On a Sportster, exhaust pushrods are one length (longer), intake pushrods are a different length (shorter). The actual lengths depend on the year of the motor. If you mixed them up and ended up with an intake pushrod on the exhaust, there's a chance of slack in the valve train because the hydraulic lifter, which is self-adjusting, is unable to lengthen itself enough to compensate for the shorter intake pushrod. This will cause valve noise and also could damage the valve stem, as the normally gentle open and close motion of the cam lobe would get bypassed. Likewise, with an exhaust pushrod on the the intake, there's a chance the valve won't close all the way because the self-adjusting hydraulic lifter is unable to shorten itself enough to compensate for the longer exhaust pushrod. This will reduce or eliminate the compression in that cylinder. If there's still enough compression for it to run, you could be pushing air/fuel mix and exhaust out the intake port and air cleaner.
If you position the motor at compression TDC and remove the 2 big bolts on the pushrod side, you can push the pin out. But you'll never get it back together without removing the rocker box, because the lifter needs to bleed down again.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE thanks for the reply. I have adjustable push rods (ev3 cam) so I could just shorten them to get the rockers back in, then readjust the push rods to their previous length. I have never attempted to adjust push rods, but after watching your video, I am willing to try. I had a feeling that even at tdc, I wouldn't be able to get it back together without shortening the rods.
One other thing I don't understand. My front intake rocker arm has a shiny spot on it on the valve side from rubbing on the rocker cover. I'm wondering if my push rod is adjusted too loose on that valve allowing the rocker arm to rotate farther than normal when the valve closes.
@@Cpcsof1 Hydraulic lifters are self-adjusting. To the extent the pushrod is too long, the lifter shortens itself, and to the extent the pushrod is too short, the lifter lengthens itself. The idea is to select pushrods of the correct length such that the lifter's plunger is approximately centered in it's self-adjusting range, which means a preload of about .100 for an HD lifter (different people have different ideas as to the ideal lifter plunger preload, but .100 is what most recommend). If the pushrod is so short that the lifter runs out of travel trying to lengthen itself, the valvetrain will make a racket and it'll also be really hard on parts because the valve will slam closed rather than be set down gently (this is a common problem when guys accidentally adjust their pushrods at overlap TDC instead of compression TDC). If the pushrod is so long that the lifter runs out of travel trying to shorten itself, the valve will never land on it's seat and you'll have no compression.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE sounds like I just need to file the rocker arm slightly where its rubbing and use the the recommended methods in this video for finding tdc. I really appreciate this video.
Removing the frame is not necessary to perform this job on a Buell. We just did the video on a Buell with it's frame off because we had one in the shop, and without the frame in place, we could show the process better. But the process can be done with the motor in the chassis, and that's true for either an XL or a Buell tube frame bike.
