Thx for the tip. I just pulled down on the guard and worked it out with no problems. New belt I did rear pulley first, front pulley, and then the 3 in the middle.
On Craftsman YS4500 with Kohler 26hp and electric PTO I had to put the belt on the engine pulley first. Otherwise it will not go around the mower deck PTO pulley. I disconnected the PTO electrical connection and the bar that mounts to the chassis to hold the PTO in position. Then, I bypassed as many of the three middle pulleys as I could. This allowed the slack to get the belt over the fan and on to the transmission pulley without having to drop the PTO (which would be a big effort). Just have the brake set while doing this and the rest was easy peasy...
Once you have the belt off the drive belt, you need to check your idler put pullies to see if you need to replace them you don’t wanna have to go back in there and take the whole thing off just for the idle put cause you forgot to check them
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I’m attempting to replace the upper drive belt on a t1400. When I attempt to remove the front pulley the motor turns when I try to unscrew it. How do I stop that from happening so I can remove the bolt?
Can you please tell me whether transmission fluid can be added to the Craftsman YT 4000? Mine has not made any noise and had been running normal, but suddenly it will barely move forward or backward. I've never seen a reservoir to access. The gear key in the rear seems correctly inserted and the drive belt is reasonably tight. Any thoughts? Thanks so much!
Have you seen any oil dripping out? If no oil has come out, there is no reason to try and put oil in. Those transmissions are pretty much non serviceable. If you have hills on the property or have towed anything heavy you may have a bad transmission if everything else is looking good. Have you changed a rear tire? Sometimes you loose the key to the axle and when you reinstall the wheel the machine will not move.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines - I so appreciate your quick response. No oil dripping. I know some people drill them out to refill, but that's beyond my paygrade, plus probably a bad idea. Haven't changed a tire. Axle Key looks normal - but couldn't be pulled out (thus it has stayed in for years), but I'll check it closely again. It sounds normal - nothing but a slight bit of pulley squeak on the hill in back, right before it stopped moving. Although I have backyard hills, the only heavy thing I tow is my aerator in the spring (has 24 hp). Guess it's to the shop it goes. This has been a great mower and is about 14 years old.
@@philipatoz did you try changing the hydro fluid? It’s a job, but I’ve had to replace mine about every 3 years? I have a lot of hills and never tow anything. Each fluid change, my hydro behaves normally. I’m doing it right now.
Do you think a new belt would help with sudden lurching? The sweet spot on the brake pedal is so small that I look like an idiot on my mower, it is impossible to be smooth with it.
I will assume you have a regular shift transmission like the one in the video. It sounds like you need to unjust your brake, which will give you a longer throw on the pedal so it will not lunge. It’s hard to explain but try and unadjust your brake nut adjustment about a half turn if you know where that is? Watch this video at the 12:45 mark. It will show you what you need to un adjust.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tZhSoeEQfGM.html
Do you have a hand held hydro control on the right? If you do your problem is your holding down the brake/clutch pedal then pushing your handle into the forward speed then your letting off the brake/clutch pedal. This way will always make the machine lunge. If you’re doing this, the only way to correct that issue is to stop using the brake/clutch and just use the forward/backward lever without depressing the brake/clutch.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines No, it is a 6 speed with neutral and reverse. I adjusted it a quarter turn last night. The pedal went from having 4" throw to having just a little bit. I will try after work today, but I think this was the issue.
If you have a double pulley like in this video and if you can get a pipe wrench to grab the center, you can try using a long breaker bar and I sometimes put a 3 foot pipe on the end. you must be careful not to break the bolt off in the shaft but usually that set up will get the bolt out.
If you have access to a torch, heat also helps. Sometimes these bolts are held on with Loctite, and by heating up where the threads would be on the shaft of the pulley you can melt the Loctite sometimes.
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Nice job, I need to have a drive belt replaced on my John Deere 100 Series. On that one, you have to remove the steering pinion gear, Can’t do it myself so I’ll have to have a shop do it. Have a great holiday and stay safe. Thanks! 👍👍
No matter what, don't get a belt any shorter at all than factory belt. Clutch will be useless if belts too tight. My drive belt goes on front and back pulleys then I put on idler amd tensioner pulleys on the middle.
No, they are different and you should look up the parts for your model number from under the seat then go to Sears parts direct and look up rack part number.
Good instructional video! I replaced my drive belt and mower deck belt which were starting to fray, but my trans belt appeared to be in good condition and works fine. Since my John Deere LX280 is 17 years old with only 272 hours, should I replace the belt or wait until there is a problem? Also, hope you have been recovering from the flood and get a new shop soon!
I’m glad you liked the video and Iit was helpful.unless the John Deere transmission belt has cracks or looks in poor shape, I would not replace it until necessary. Please subscribe and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated.
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