How to install vinyl siding from A to Z (Part 3 of 3) 

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! Your plumber wouldn’t be Wardwell?

@@sidingschool No, we're all in the Deerfield area.

Got it. I guess we both know a couple more seasoned plumbers! 😊

Thanks! I forget half the things I said lol. The nail in the fascia I should have drilled out, but usually I’m able to get it with the second or third try… that one went into a knot and gave me a lot of trouble. Good luck on your project!

Thanks! I’m glad you liked it! 😊

Thanks! I will see about doing that soon (I’ve put it in my notes). Maybe I’ll start finding more repair work so I can make videos on how to make repairs.

Hi Steve, you are correct. I just staple to the 1/2” sheathing, this is pretty standard in my neck of the woods. Most manufacturers (and building codes) say to nail to studs, but I haven’t ran into any problems in twenty or so years with just going to the sheathing. A 1” staple will go all the way through the sheathing.

@Siding School I just cringe at seeing thousands of staples poking thru the inside of my open shop walls 😅

You should see what it looks like when cedar shakes are installed. 😬

No problem! Industry standard around here is .042” thickness. Anything that thick or thicker should be sufficient. Thicker is typically better, but might not necessarily change any fading tendencies… it would be harder to dent and chip though. Insulated siding “should” be even more resilient to impacts and will add some R value as well. Insulation pretty much always will pay itself back over time, so it is a good choice as long as you like the look of it. Normal window j pockets won’t accept insulated vinyl siding so they would need j channel. Another downside to insulated vinyl siding is that if/when the siding is stripped off, the insulation goes with it. I’ve done houses before where I installed 1” rigid insulation before the siding and that gets you a true R-5 with no thermal bridging - I like that way of doing it, but it also requires j channel around windows (unless the windows and doors are going in with the siding, because then they could be padded out to meet the siding). Good luck with your project!

You’re welcome! It’s hard to say an exact figure, but I looked at Lowe’s prices and it looks like LP sells for about $300 per sq (100 sq ft) and you still have to paint it. Vinyl goes for around $120 per sq. Overall my gut tells me: whenever I go with dimensional lumber or material I figure it is at least double for materials and double for labor.

Thanks :), unfortunately I’m changing things up a bit in business… scaling down and focusing on smaller jobs that will hopefully make better content.

That’s a good idea. It would work well unless the ribs landed in the wrong spot, but I think I’ll use it in the future. I’d probably do one side long with a crease and a tab then the other side over it to the center point (if that’s what you meant). :)

I quess it only works if you come up one side and down the other. Coming up from both sides it wouldnt work. Im only done a few jobs, my own place. Thanks again. Ill be watching more

More to come!