How to install J-Channel around an opening 

Thanks! If I’m honest it’s something I learned from others. And if the housewrap is installed properly it is just an “extra precaution”… (however under decks seems to be a problem area and kicking the water back out there is definitely a good idea).

But the water from above comes down, enters the j channel and magically comes to the outside? BS capillary action will draw it everywhere. Up down left right. The ONLY solution is to put a cap flashing on the top. Which NOONE does. Except me. I've never seen anyone take the time to do cap flashing above doors windows etc.

Thanks! And yeah, it doesn’t have to be bent trim coil either… that’s just a scrap I had from something else.

Thanks! I’m gathering a lot of footage now and will be uploading more tutorials soon.

That's much appreciated, thank you sir.

Glad to be here!

Good luck on your project!

Thanks!

I’m glad to help! 👍🏼

Awesome!

Thanks man! 😊

@@sidingschool Started using your method and it works really well. The only thing I do different is I put my Tyvek or house wrap over the top J-trim, where you have it over the drip cap only.

Thanks! And good luck! It takes a little practice. 👍🏼

Thanks!

Thanks!

That’s too bad. I like to say “change it” - often times it isn’t done incorrectly, but there may be a better way to do it. 😊

Right on man!

No problem! More to come.

I’ve been using it for many years 👍🏼

Thanks!

Thanks! 😊

You’re right on with that. Usually the ones I put in are MidAmerica brand I think. The builder installed these ones from a local lumber yard, so I didn’t have much say in it.

😎

That’s a decent look too and like you said it leaves a little more margin for error. I didn’t like the looks of it at first, but don’t mind it now. The more important thing to me is that there is consistency throughout the job. 👍🏼😊

@@sidingschool lthats the whole thing with siding. Consistency throughout the job

Yeah, it can be a bummer when you smack the J and crack it then have to take off siding to fix it. I’d check your manufacturer specs, but stapling J has worked well for me for the last 19 years. Good luck on your project!

There’s many different methods, I like the way this one looks the best. 😊

That’s right, when I remodel I typically hand nail. As far as I know the manufacturer here - ‘Certainteed’ carries the same warranty stapled, nailed or screwed and they even mention specific stapling requirements in their literature. Where I live there’s not much risk of high winds and yes, fastening requirements definitely change based on your location! If you were building by the sea coast they’d require stainless steel fasteners… Everything in construction is relative, where you live the prices to install will carry the extra labor to screw it in, around here you’d probably be out of business quick. Keep up the good work!! 👍🏼

@@sidingschool I get it, I'm from Detroit. I landed in Texas because...well, I'm from Detroit...lol.

It’s cold here in the North East. 🥶

Awesome! 😎

Thanks!

That it probably due to improper installation of flashing and housewrap above the window (if they installed flashing at all). I posted a video called how to bend and install Z flashing which I recommend you watch - it may give you a better idea of what could be happening. And unfortunately when one thing is done incorrectly you can almost count on all things to be the same. 😏 Good luck!

@@sidingschool I’m beginning to realize that whoever built this house wasn’t exactly professional

I’d say in general a lot of tradesmen could do better. They need to read installation instructions and not rely solely on what they were taught by someone who never read them.

J-Channel is sometimes a little different as it is often locked into place on either end (thus prohibiting movement) this happens regardless of the nailing methods used. There is a method to create a slip joint in J Channel that I use sometimes when needed. When I staple the siding with a Paslode 1/2” crown 16 gauge staple, the staple is held proud of the nail hem so it can move freely.

Good point on the staples being proud allowing some movement. One end really needs to be in the slot also, Not in the body of the J. Great video..😊

Hi User-so, Video coming tomorrow evening that should answer this question - stay tuned.

Looking forward to it, thanks!

Okay, so I failed miserably at making a quality video. Trying again today.

Got one posted, I hope it helps!

The J-Channel I typically staple a little tighter, but in a manner that it can still move, it just holds it closer to the edges and doesn’t curl away. For the siding I switch to a bigger staple and fasten it more loose so it can move easily. J-Channel is a little more rigid and I haven’t had a problem with it bubbling in between fasteners, undersill on the other hand will bubble in between fasteners if it can’t expand and contract… I’ve been at this a long time and have learned the limits of the materials. The recommendation is to let everything move freely, but seeing that J-Channel is often fixed between two points….

I think the pieces around the dryer vent are too short to make any significant expansion.

You’ve got a good point there too

No problem! More content coming…

That is true. Did you watch the part where I show how to deflect the water back to the face of the siding?

Thanks!

Ah, bummer. And I wouldn’t fret, there’s a lot of ways to do things, this is just my preferred method!

Yes sir, I have many years of vinyl siding experience! Although I’ve done a few other things here and there. A little framing, roofing, finish carpentry.

I have a cap flashing on top of the PVC. This is a standard install. Water does go everywhere behind the siding unless it is redirected out, that is why we use housewrap.

Please elaborate @pepperman9

@sidingschool Looks good to me, well done Sir

Thanks!

Well I guess he’s a ghost, I’ve been installing J channel like this everyday for 15 years without any problems. As much as I’d like to hear his reasons, I’m not holding my breath.

@@sidingschool First, staples void the manufacturers warranty, it also enables you to simply fall against the siding in the winter and have the final break free. I can walk up to a building you install, grab the J-channel, and just snatch it off the wall, and most times some siding will come off with it as well. I spent a little over 2 years as a service tech for the nations largest vinyl siding company repairing poorly installed jobs because they were having far too many warranty claims. At that time I had already worked them as a sub-contractor for around 10 years( I worked there almost 20 years). Next, if you cut the nailer off of the bottom of the side pieces, you will create a "damming" effect for water that makes it's way into the J. The nailer should be left intact just as you did the bottom, and the piece that goes across the top should as well. Also, leaving the nailer intact causes the J to bulge due to excessive material width being slid into it. Technically, the nailer from the bottom of the side pieces should be left long enough so when you bring the siding up to it, you can lap it over the nailer for the water to travel over it and into the weep holes of the covering piece of siding(no one ever does this though). Oddly enough, you explain the water traveling down the siding, into the J. You then run your hands along this path explaining the travel path, but the water will not travel down the inside of the side pieces because you created a hole by cutting the nailer off preventing the waters need for a shed to travel. On the stapling the siding issue, if you think it is correct, explain why the piece you folding around the right side from the top split where you nailed it. the answer is because you are not supposed to use staples, and you are always supposed to use the provided nail slots. I don't even have to look at how you to install soffit to know you also staple that, which on the hottest day of the year will most likely crack the vinyl at least 50% of the time. In my 30+ years of siding installation, I have never, yes never had a failure in my installation. I live in and around my installed homes every day, and the 3 pieces that I have gone and repaired were due on jobs that I had employees, and they were all the top rip that was not properly installed. I will gladly accept any challenge to anything I said here. The main house on my property where I live was sided in the late summer of 2001. It contains almost every style of trim product available, the top of the line siding that came in 16' and 25' lengths. I installed every stitch of that house myself, it took 31 days. In vinyl siding there is a ceiling. At some point there just is nothing left you can learn and you can say you are the best in the business, there are many equal, but none better. I took great pride in teaching many men and women how to properly hang vinyl, and quite a few are still doing it, where I have retired. I considered doing a channel like this, but I have a busy enough time already with life. I will say, you are the very first and only person to ever respond to my comments on these particular channel topics and I applaud that. I would be happy to pass on what I know if you care to hear it. I was an installer about 12 years when a guy i hired who never hung siding gave me the best idea for J-channel, it was a slight tweak, but turned out to be one I did until my last job. I am not a ghost, I saw your reply just now and wrote this book in response. Yes, I am this long winded in person too.

I’ve sided houses for 16 years and none of them bubble or require repairs. Staples are approved by the manufacturer and the VSI (Vinyl Siding Institute). Here’s a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd Here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf The j channel here I stapled a little tighter to hold it a little closer (on a 16” piece there isn’t much for expansion and contraction). The staples are left proud of the nail fin usually to allow the siding to move freely. Thanks for your input!