This is my video on how to wire a nest learning thermostat with a combi boiler , it’s super simple once you know the set up. Here are all the products I used: amzn.to/2Sk9Uwg 5 core flex cable: amzn.to/2AajFGo
Wow thank you ever so much! we stressed so much about our thermostat only to find out they had fitted the wiring wrong! my husband and i rewired ours watching your video, you saved us alot of money and time. thanks mat.
Riima Ali ahhhh that’s awesome guys I’m so glad you found it useful!! If you like the style of my videos, I’d love for you to consider subscribing to my channel, for more useful electrical, plumbing and all other types of DIY videos. :) thanks so much for watching, best regards, matt
@@MattHutton hey Matt thanks for the reply, just a quik one. iv downloaded the app on my phone and using it, but can more than one person use the app too? ie can my husband download it and use it.
You know when you have a new WB 25i installed and then you buy a nest thermostat, then you come to RU-vid to find a vid for a little bit of guidance.. then you find this which exactly mirrors what you want.... Top work fellar. I’m clicking the subscribe. 👍
Good video. I had to follow slightly different instructions to make it work: N = N L = L E = E Ls = 2 Lr = 3 (And remove the existing bridge between Ls and Lr)
Can't thank you enough for this video mate. Nicely presented and clearly explained. Got sick of looking online, and obvious installers just telling people to pay for it. My best quote was £70, and I didn't even need the thermostat installing as I bought the stand for it! Saved me a fortune following this video, and best of all the same boiler so couldn't go wrong really :)
Thanks for a very clearly explained video. I power my 3rd generation nest thermostat with a micro usb cable into a power supply close to best location to monitor temperature. So no need run long cable from boiler location. (Communication to the heat link at the boiler location is wireless.)
Thanks for your efforts with this video. Allowed me to fit my nest with ease. All fitted and up and running in 3 hours. This includes routing bell wire to the thermostat in living room and up into the ceiling to the nest hub in the airing cupboard.
Brilliant Video chap. Helped me, an avid DIY'er, wire up my 3rd gen Nest into my Worcester Greenstar 32CDI. The wiring isn't exactly the same but at least the symbols are the same.
Great video - thanks. Just a couple of things to add, the bridge wire for the hot water should remain in place. Also, if you're replacing an integrated controller such as Drayton RF, the ribbon has to be unplugged from the circuitboard (behind the receiver on the front of the boiler) for the NEST to take over.
Hey there I've got an integrated system (myson plus) and I've installed the nest system but that still seems to be working. I reckon what you're saying I need to do in order for the nest to work. But could clarify where this so called ribbon is please?
Thanks for the video 🙌 you said it will work with any boiler, my old boiler has got mechanical timer/clock , only 3 cores comes FROM boiler PCB into that timer clock... 3 cores, thats all that turns boiler on and off ...
Mark Harper awesome! Glad you found it useful :) I always try to be as clear as possible, because there are always so many little unknown details, that aren’t always obvious. If you enjoyed the video and you haven’t already bought a Nest yet, I’d love for you to use the first link in the description of my video. It won’t cost you any more and I will get a small referral fee if you decided to get it from Amazon :) Thanks so much for your message. Best regards Matt
Would it not be possible to have a jumper cable (from the "L" terminal on the Heat Link to the "2" terminal) in order to replace the function of the grey cable in your setup? So, in effect, having only 3 cables going from the Heat Link to the boiler.
Yes that would be fine. I usually use the linked cable I take out of the boiler and sleeve it with brown sheath. Or a small ofcut of the brown cable in the flex. Either way is perfectly acceptable. It's just a permanent live. All of the wiring should be taking supplied line neutral and earth from the same power source as the boiler. So anyone else in future working on the appliance can easily and safely isolate external controls too.
Nice video Matt, though you're obviously not a professional cos you have fluked the right wiring but not sure u understand it. A couple things, 'IN/OUT' is input/output, not inside/outside. Also, LR is Live Return. The nest needs a DC power source, and a connection to the heat link. The connection to the heatlink can be wireless (with a separate dc power supply), OR powered & connected via the T1/T2 terminals from the heatlink. If you're installing the thermostat far from the heatlink, then you HAVE to wire it to the heatlink, otherwise you can connect wirelessly with a plug in power source (I.e. no wires from the heat link to the thermostat). This is also why you need to fit the heatlink away from the boiler because the boiler interferes with the wireless signal between the heatlink and the thermostat. For a hard wired connection, you can place the heatlink wherever you want. The boiler controls the temperature of radiators and the hot water. The nest does not send any details about the temperature, only an on/off signal. So your comments about the boiler not firing because the boiler temperature is low etc is nonsense. The nest simply sends an on/off signal to the boiler. If the temperature u set on the thermostat is above the ambient temperature, it triggers a switch in the heatlink which sends a current down the Live Return to the boiler (the 'on' signal). When the boiler receives this current, it turns on. When the desired room temperature is reached, the thermostat sends an 'off' signal to the heat link which then turns the switched live off. Because the live return doesn't have a current, the boiler turns off. Some boilers need to be told to turn off and thats the third connection that you didn't use, but most modern boilers will default to being 'off' if the switched live is off. This is all of course assuming you don't have any other controllers plugged in (like other thermostats or programmers). Nest v3 has hot water connections as well (labelled 4-6). If you want to control the hot water, you'll need to wire these in as well in a similar way to the heating (the video doesn't cover this and isn't required for a combi boiler but could be used for a system boiler). Finally, worcester bosch boilers don't have OpenTherm, they use EMS (often an orange label / identified as BUS on the boiler). You can get a nefit ems to opentherm adapter which would mean you only need to connect the power source to the heatlink and the 2 open therm connections to the 2 EMS connections in the boiler (via the adapter). This will then 'speak' to the boiler rather than just sending an on/off signal. I'm pretty sure only an electrician can carry out this work rather than an average diyer. In the US, people can do their own wiring so I assume the how to videos from nest are aimed at them rather than the UK. The lack of understanding makes me think you're an amateur DIYer and whilst I'm tempted to dislike for your lack of knowledge, I'm gonna like this video anyway cos it still works !!! Though I wouldn't pay you to do any wiring for me...
Hello, reading at your comment makes me think you are a specialist at boilers and thermostats? Since i just purchased a boiler and a nest thermostat, i have no clue how to connect it, mine is a bosch combi boiler 2000, and i was wondering if you could guide me to how do i connect it, and how does the hot water gets connected, how does it work? Thank you
@@pidhsome I think Matt has produced a really good guide for you to follow. Other than referring to certain technical terms incorrectly and not really talking about hot water, I think his guide should give the most basic instructions on how to install. I'm not a specialist by any means, but happy to set on the right path. A Worcester Bosch 2000 is a combi boiler i.e. you would get hot water on demand when you open the tap, so you don't need to worry about hot water connections and can follow Matt's guide. If you have a hot water tank that fills up with hot water every now and then, then you would have what's referred to in the nest installation guide as a Y-plan system and you would need to wire the hot water controls as well to tell the boiler when to send hot water to the hot water tank. The installation manuals aren't as user friendly as they used to be, so without seeing the different connection options, I cant say which wires go where, but Matt's guide should give you a good starting point. Boilers and nests are expensive bits of equipment. If you're not sure what you're doing, I suggest leaving it to the professionals. Good luck
@@ravindrabakrania problem is where i live there’s no specialist near me for more that 200-300km away, so getting one would be really expensive that’s why i’m trying to learn myself, thank you for the suggestions tho, take care.
Nice video, just wondering if you think it's worth getting a smart thermostat that allows for modulation, to save fuel? Only Worcester bosch wireless thermostat does it I think.
Matt decent video.... showing the basics of the install...although there is alot of information missing about how to isolate your boiler and prove for dead.... Just out of curiosity can you confirm exactly what your profession is? By the sounds of it your not an electrician by the terms you used in this video?
Hi Neil, I do not have a professional. Just wired it up and left my gas safe engineer and electrician to check it sign it off once the project was complete.
@@MattHutton come on you do realise it’s illegal to open a boiler case regardless if someone has signed off your plus a gas engineer won’t sign anything for installing a thermostat
of course if you use the base unit for the thermostat, (which-lugs into a power socket, you with not need and linking power supply wire through the walls!
It does not seem, that this way of connection of Nest does provide any load-compensation, or weather-compensation control, compulsory for all new combi boiler installations since April, 2018 in UK! It is just like the old fashion simple ON-OFF control, which now is illegal, unless the boiler is a system one, in which case the room-stat should control the heating motorized valve(s). Better use BoshEasyControl, or any of Worchester Sense I with load compensation function, or Sence II with weather compensation /Wave Smart for remote control via app to comply with Boiler Plus Regulations
Thanks for the video. I think your boiler is opentherm. Is there a reason why you did not wire to the opentherm, please? My understanding is that the boiler will be more efficient with that additional piece of wiring? Thanks
Worcester Bosch Doesn’t support Open Therm so you can’t use Nest Weather Compensation with Worcester Bosch, would need to fit Worcester Bosch Weather Compensation Controls to use this function
I’m guessing you can use anything to power the actual thermostat so long as it’s the correct voltage? Seems odd having a ‘wireless’ thermostat that needs wiring to the boiler?
You should be careful with this if your Boiler is still under warranty as the manufacturer may consider the converter an unauthorised modification, all UK Boiler manufacturer’s should be made to make their Boilers compatible with Open Therm as in Scandinavian Countries, but they want to push you in the direction of their own controls
@@deadpanjack8055 I know now, I fitted it 2 years ago. There is not much space to have the loop in the Heatlink, so you could use 4 core cable and make the loop in the boiler.
I don't understand this. If Nest Thermostat can be used with Nest Stand (connected to a regular power socket mounted anywhere in the room) still communicating with Heat Link, why do I have to hard-wire it with Heat Link? Shouldn't there be a way to just connect Thermostat with a regular 12V supply, not the original Nest Stand? If it is a fkn smart Thermostat, should it communicate with Heat Link wirelessly in this case?
Hey man I may actually be able to do that. As I’m project managing an industrial unit refurb at the moment and we have Warmup underfloor heating going in. Subscribe and you’ll get notified as soon as I make the video. It will be a couple of week but should be able to film something.
Great, I was following those steps on my vaillant eco tech plus 831 which has a ebus which is connected to my existing thermostat for on and off functions so how should I wire these?
Thanks, are you sure the L1 and L2 is for power only? I thought is was also for data connection at the same time like a honeywell also does. When its not connected the mesh system is taking over. I hope so because i want one and i'm not sure this mesh data wireless system will be strong enough to go through two concrete reinforced floors.
Worcester Bosch doesn’t support Open Therm so unfortunately you can’t use the Weather compensation function of the Nest to its full potential, Worcester only support their own weather Compensation through Wave or Easi Control
Hi Matt, thanks a lot for sharing the video it's really great! I'm trying to up-skill myself on combi boilers and Nest thermostats. I have a baxi duo tech combi boiler, it's currently connected to a danfoss TP 5001 thermostat which wirelessly communicate with a danfoss rx1 receiver. I want to change the danfoss to a nest thermostate E. Unfortunately I'm installing this in a country that is not supported by Nest install pro so I'm on my own here. Do you have any tips on where I should start? If I understand correctly I should replace my current receiver with the Heat Link, and then replace the thermostat with the nest E thermostat?
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a question as my old basic thermostat was connected to 3 wires plus earth one. Blue, red and yellow. What do I do with the yellow one ¿ thanks in advance
‘If’ your yellow is an earth and ‘if’ you are connecting these wires to the thermostat on the wall to charge it. Then you can just wrap the wire up in electrical tape and not use it. But please do no take my comment as advice, as I do not know any of your wires are connected. If I was there I could give you a better idea of how to do it. But basically the thermostat on the wall has a battery in it and it wirelessly connects to the wireless connector that you mount next to the boiler. So you just need to provide the thermostat with charge. If you what the video through fully you can see how I have connected all of the wires. You only need two for the thermostat on the wall. I hope that helps.
I just followed your video and got my nest working perfectly in about 30min, one thing i did notice my old wiring had the hot water (LR) connected to the 230V Live out (L)? any idea what that was about?
Perfectly acceptable for an GSR person to install using a plug as long as the socket outlet is double pole or unswitche. The main point of reference is that the appliance can be safely isolated. Where in GSIUR does it state that a plug outlet cannot be used? If there's a plug outlet, I'll use a plug outlet.
No one should take the casing off a boiler unless Gas safe registered, people beware your casing often forms part of combustion seals which protect your life!! Paying the price of a professional is often worth it considering the risk involved
The boiler with fitted by a gas safe engineer, and provided with a certificate by the same gas safe engineer. Which he provided after I fitted the thermostat :)
You can take the front cover of the boiler off to access the electrical connections, as long as you don't start touching any other parts inside. In no way does the front cover seal anything, the bottom of the boiler is full of holes so any gas (if there was a leak) can escape with or without the cover on
@@agicorn6379 So how can he carry out the necessary 26.9 checks if he is not qualified to or even have the correct tools also this boiler is room sealed and he is running the boiler with the case removed without a clue about what he is doing
@@agicorn6379 the front cover does provide a seal, if there are any holes in the bottom of the case where grommets have been removed etc then the Boiler is considered to be “At Risk” the last person to work on the Boiler is responsible for its safe operation, once the case is refitted the flue integrity and combustion should be checked using a flue gas analyser, only a qualified engineer is considered competent to do this …. In a perfect world obviously 😉
Hope all these people doing there own connections inside boiler are testing emissions after because on this particular you are breaking the seal on a room sealed appliance
That’s funny, I couldn’t see anything in the wiring diagram that came with the Nest to check the emissions after connecting it up. Must have been a job for the gas safe engineer who installed the boiler and signed it off ;)
Great post, what happens with LR water? Currently mines connected to 230v outlet using Worcester wave. The 2 wires to wave go to ems which I will delete Thanks
Your Boiler will be more efficient using the Wave via the ems, this will allow the Wave to use Weather Compensation and match the Boiler Output to the load, Nest Doesn’t use ems and Worcester doesn’t support Open Therm
Probably not the best posting this since it’s illegal to access a gas appliance without being gas safe registered wouldn’t advise doing it either as if you do it wrong you could blow the pcb which will cost a lot more than just paying the correct person
@@MattHutton I have logic 35 combi boiler so connections could be different to yours. I have short the number 4, on and off connection and then used the OT1 AND OT2 ports of Nest to open therm ports of combi boiler. Rest of the connections remain same.
I doubt it Whoever commissioned the appliance didn't set the max parameter for CH 88⁰C is too high. It's where the high limit stat kicks in and switches the appliance off 🤷♂️. The correct way to install this would have been via opentherm much more, efficient.
You need the WB adapter to convert the OT to WB language, you can get them from Holland, but im sure WB are selling them here now. Then your boiler will modulate better. www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/products/accessories/directory/easycontrol-adapter
