The only information on how to remove and replace the 6.5 Turbo Diesel Injection Pump Optical Sensor i found was from 2002. I could not find a video about it, so here it is. web.archive.org/web/201610012...
Thank you for making the video. I’m having the same issue with my 95 6.5 also. The shop would take my appointment either , told me that it’s the “Bad child of all “ but I’m not giving up! I love my truck.
Thank you for making a very helpful video. I have a 6.5 for the last 16 years. Great machine. I never changed that sensor but I am delighted to know more about it.
great vid brother , I had the No power problem all i did was move the OS to the passanger side that advanced the timing by 2 deg now runs sweet as , Thanks again merry christmass Oh you have a very cute daughter she looks like my little girl ,,,, always helping .... R.J.T Traveling east coast Australia ,,,,,,
Gracias por hacer y compartir un video tan útil. Desde ya te comento que gracias al vídeo puede conseguir el repuesto y poder solucionar el problema. Desde Paraguay 🇵🇾 saludos!
They only thing to add is cleanliness people, clean clean clean before you pull apart, if its real dirty pinch some of missus oven cleaner and spray first to loosen up tough grime and then spray with carb cleaner or if stuck some white spirit cos any little bits fall in ca ruin the whole show, when professionals make or repair these they are done in a "clean room " environment so give yourselves the best chance of success
Great tip. But I would advise against carb cleaner. That will destroy any rubber o rings or gaskets or sensitive sensors and connectors. Brake clean is a better alternative.
I had those same issues, and it ended up being a loose/wore out fuel line. Fixed the problem. Mine happened to be the main supply between the filter and injection pump. I was able to twist it by hand. New hose and done. Now I am throwing this optical sensor code, time to replace it
Things evolve to be more complicated then they need to be. Pure mechanical pumps work fine, no computer control needed. You can adjust the injector timing to increase power or economy. I might dump that pump for a 1991 or older pure mechanical, but no need now that it's fixed.
Thanks for posting about this optical sensor thingy, there's not a lot of good information on the workings of these pumps and it's frustrating. Be interesting to do a post mortem on this sensor to see why its failed, if that's possible. Expensive little unit.
@@MarshCreekFarmOffGrid There is only 2 components one is a Infered LED (light emiting diode ) and the other is another LED that picks up the flick of infared when it shines thru the small holes in the rotating plate , There is really nothing to see inside Nothing to fix either ,,,,,, Have a great day
Ive been having A weird studder on and off and i find i've lost power. One video i watched the guy slide the optic sensor forward and he said it made a ton of difference. What do you know about that line of thought?
Changing the Optical Sensor cleared my P0251 and P0370 Codes. I've heard air in the fuel line or water in the tank can cause the same codes, so make sure that isn't your issue first.
I was having the same issues and I mean exactly. I changed the fuel filter and nothing. I changed the air filter and it fixed it. No one ever says to change that and air flow especially under a load like putting it in gear is EVERYTHING I repeat E V E R Y T H I N G. Auto experts do not impress me. I'm not talking about you. I thank you for this video
Always check the simple stuff first most so called mechanics or techs should first ask you about air and fuel filters and simple things in general but now of days everyone just replaces crap till it either fixes it or they run out of money.
Surprised to not see comments or talk in video of the optical "bump" Also, i wonder why people dont use feeler gauges on either side to verify it goes back in same spot, also the same to adjust optical "bump" After i sort out a few things and do some long overdue maintenance ill be doing the "bump"
I have a '99 6.5 'Burban, too. And I love that truck. I just hate the whole fuel pump/PMD combo. Having been through a couple of pumps, one under warranty, and just gotten the remote mount PMD installed, I still don't trust it. My mechanic told me it is possible to replace the whole electronic system with a manual pump from the old 6.2 GM diesel. Several parts are needed and can be gotten off the GM Vandura diesels. 1. The pump and injector lines 2. The throttle pedal and cable assembly with brackets 3. The computer for the 4L80E transmission Have you ever heard of this conversion?
Would have been really great had you provided some really good visual clarity on that scribe mark. Seems like that's a critical issue and would be really nice and helpful to have some clarity on exactly what the reference marks are aligning!!
hi I have a suburban 95 model with the same motor as yours a detroit L65 turbo diesel. my engine fails, always when I press the accelerator pedal a little more !! Will I have to change that sensor? Can you tell me what the problem is? and make a lot smoke!! i put a new injectores a couples weeks ago but nothing happens!! thanks for put this great vedeo cheers from portugal
I own one, and trying to shoehorn it into my C class camper. Ford based... But mercy! That 460/C6 sucked a hefty 5 mpg! This kit may push 20! But the real reason I posted this, is that is one ugly intake! "But we have to fit it under the hood of a Corvette!" Velocity is a plus, but the "plenum" slows it down "to build pressure", instead of letting velocity fill the briefly open cylinder.
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I have a 6.5 that has a "run away" throttle. It's either idle or full throttle nothing in between. Runs fine on level ground but anytime you go down hill it can't maintain speed. So you end up bumping the throttle up and down. Can't hold any RPMs in park. However when I unplug the optical sensor and start the truck up I can hold RPMs in park. Starts rough and drives with lack of power, but I regain control of the throttle again. I've been told I need an injector pump, but I'm wondering if it's the optical sensor. Any idea?
I have the exact same problem i tried all 3 of my pmd's nothing changed one of the pmd's was from a running truck nothing changed so we are swapping out the complete injection pump im not sure if just an optical sensor would have taken care of it i will post when we are done putting it back together and we will see how it runs
So it’s been 2.5 years give or take, how has it ran since doing the switch? I’ve had the same problem in my 6.5 and replaced everything like you have and still get problems here and there. It’s frustrating
If you do not time this correctly will it damage the injection pump? I just had taken my 2000 chevy k2500 to the mechanics after i had replaced the optical sensor but was still running a little funny. They told me it was idling a little high, though I'd been driving it around and even used it long distance several times, including driving it to the mechanics. Several days go by and they call saying they had taken the whole front end of the engine apart and now it doesn't run. Theyre saying it needs a new injection pump and saying that because it wasnt timed correctly that caused it to fail.
What ever happened to that flashlight you where getting.?? It's hard to see anything down in that well. But, I think we get the idea. ThankU for the upload..!
Is there just the optical sensor under that injection pump cap? One of those t25 torx screws sheared inside the hole, not sure what to do about it. Can I drive it like that?
What do you do when the optical sensor hold down wont hold the sensor down, threads arent stripped little spacers still on hold down block you tighten it down and it still floats !
I'm trying to print out the instruction but when I do its not printing the pictures with it, How did you get the pictures to print out. Also what this optical sensor do for the injector pump and was the fuel line you took off, was it a supply are return? Thanks Stan. 12/01/2016
Stan Wilson I didn't have any trouble printing the website and it printed with pictures so I'm not quite sure what the problem is on your end. the fuel line that goes into the top of the pump is the supply to the pump there's no return off of the pump. the only Returns come from the fuel filter housing and the injectors
Marsh Creek Farmstead , this is what is going on with my 6.5 diesel in my 96 3500. If I drive it at 50 MPH for 10 too 15 miles the engine will start fading out and will stop running, If I run it at 60 too 70 MPH it will only run for about a mile are so and just stop running. I changed the fuel pump and pump relay fuel filter. Do you know of anything I can check are do? Stan 12/01/2016
Stan Wilson does the truck start up after it dies easily or does it take cranking? have you checked your fuel pressure from the lift pump? should be 5 lbs.
Look at the tan color film on everything inside the injection pump. That is WHY, the OPTICAL sensor does NOT work. Just CLEAN the two lenses. The emitter and the receiver. The L.E.D. light must shine on the receiver, to trigger the injection. The fuel is DIRTY, is your fuel tank RUSTED inside???? Soon the film, will coat the lenses again. Replace the tank and metal lines.
250.00 ? You can get a whole rebuilt pump for a 99 6.5 for another 250.00 should have just replaced the whole pump. Thats nuts that they charge so much for that sensor and the whole pump shouldnt even need it they should make it all mechanical all that junk plastic crap is just going to break.whybany engineer with a degree in anything of use would engineer such junk is a mystery ill stick to my 72 chevy or 77 ford with all metal parts no junk plastic crap thats going to break every couple years. Everybody was fast to crush all the older cars cause they didnt want people to know what quality is then everybody would expect nothing but quality thereafter
I have a 1997 3500hd starts and runs great even pulls car trailer with a 3/4 ton 1972 full body chevy mudtruck good until you start up any hill big or small losses all power but has no trouble pulling out from a dead stop compression is good?
William Mcclellan did you check the waste gate? That was my problem like you are describing. Ended up being a bad wire on the module that controls it. RU-vid 6.5 chevy waste gate trouble shooting
I don’t get it I’ve never had a problem with lift pump it’s your pmd if it is running fast then it slows down and speed up or don’t start lots of diff scenarios try your optical sensor I would have used a used one from scrap yard and most don’t have to many problems with optical sensor it’s hard to scribe a line I don’t think it matters if you are off a bit thers guys that turn them up to make truck faster it’s hard to scribe
Lift pumps definitely fail frequently for some. Took 6 years for a generic off shelf unit from Poop Boys to go bad for me. Apparently people have them go bad a lot though
Also, i wonder why people dont use feeler gauges on either side to verify it goes back in same spot, also the same to adjust optical "bump" After i sort out a few things and do some long overdue maintenance ill be doing the "bump"
jaime bravo try disconnecting the optical sensor on top of the pump when I did that the Suburban started it took a little bit longer to start I had to crank it for 10 to 20 seconds but it did start with the optical sensor disconnected.
Marsh Creek Farmstead well I disconnected it still nothing but I found a 6.5 that over heats for 600 bucks :D I'm going to change the pump and post how it it goes my trucks in better shape than the other one so I'll post up what happens nxt really hope it'll turn on
