@Stable Genius Nope not based on the 350, that sort of was the 5.7, the 6.5LTD was 100% Detroit Diesel never a gasser engine derivative, uprated from the 6.2 N/A Diesel also not a gasser derivative.
@Stable Genius Got it; Of all of GM's forays into Diesel, the 5.7 was not their most successful venture, that said 5.7 wasn't as bad as some would lead you to believe, it was a light duty Diesel, better suited for cars, even though in trucks, in trucks perception was it could do "truck work" ...not so much....you had to understand it's limitations..... worst GM Diesel ??? let's flip a coin lest we leave out the 4.3L engine en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile_Diesel_engine
Stuuubbs 77 Take a worn out Chevy small block and JB weld the spark plug holes and fill the gas tank full of diesel and you’ll have a better motor than a 6.4
6.4's can be built to be a good engine, if you're willing to spend the money on an upgraded top end and delete all the emissions bs. It's going to cost a lot more to get it sorted compared to a 6.0, but you'll have a beast when you're done.
I know what you mean about the power steering pumps. I've got an early '99 that I got in August of '98 with a 6 speed manual and a 2001 Lariat with an automatic. Great trucks. Suspensions are indestructible.
@jacobeldredge803 In 1994 for example, the 6.5 TD was rated at 385 ft lb @ 1700 rpm and the 7.4 gas was rated at 385 ft lb @ 3600 rpm. The 5.7 gas was only 310 ft lbs. I think the older non-turbo 6.2 is more comparable to the 5.7, but in the 90's the turbo diesel and the 7.4 were advertised as having similar torque figures.
I own a 1993 chevy K2500 and I'm keenly aware of the issues. In spite of oil cooler line failure and all.. I still love this old truck 263,000 and still going! Thank you for the validation, nice to know there are others that can appreciate this platform. Manual glowplug control was my most satisfying fix. No more short cycles on cold days and no more burned out glowplugs on warm days!
Blown 6.4 for sale everywhere in my erea. People swap 6.0 / 7.4 or rolled 6.7s in them. People even puts 5.9s in them. There nice looking trucks. But even running ones sell for cheap. No one wants them.
I have been rebuilding 6.2s and 6.5s for ten years. The biggest problem with the 6.5 is the thin walled block. It bends under high loads and will crack the block. Actually you are better off with the 6.2 block and putting some aftermarket new pistons in it. The 6.2 block is thicker and harder then the 6.5. It's worth making the 6.2 Turboed with the 6.5 Turbo and accessories. Then you will have a reliable engine. But you've also got to put studs instead of head bolts. Then it will handle about 300 Hp. You can also put a smaller pulley on the water pump to get about 33% more flow. I had a 35000 Flat bad with 300 Hp 6.2 Block Turboed. Weighing over 13000 Lbs. Running on veggie oil and carrying 600 Gallons of oil. No problem.
This sounds similar to the issues the 7.3 IDI had with cavitation. Take a 6.9 block, Bore it out to the 7.3 If you so desire, use 7.3 heads and machine the head bolt size on the 6.9 block to match. Boom, brand new 7.3 out of the factory I love reading this: because im doing a 6.9 build as we speak :D
Hey I got a problem with my 6.5 it doesn’t overheat but stalls when it’s been running for more than 15 mins it’s got a new pmd and it’s been relocated, new fuel pump. I can’t figure out what’s wrong with it
If you've got a 6.2 kicking around, you could do this. The 6.2 hasn't been manufactured in like 30+ years at this point though so you could be in for a lot of machine work depending on the condition of a very used block and heads. There are a few sources for newer AM General made Optimizer 6.5 blocks which corrected the issues of the earlier 6.5l motors. If you're going to go to the trouble of fitting new pistons and doing all the machine work to a 6.2, it might make more sense to just start fresh with a new 6.5 block. Then fit the lower compression marine pistons and an intercooler (which none of the turbo motors ever had) and you're good to go. You can push the GM-8 turbo up north of 15psi although a Holset HX35 would probably be a better choice. 300+hp and 500lb-ft is easily within the reach of these motors. The factory AM General 6.5 Optimizers are rated at 205hp and 440lb-ft at low boost pressures.
If you've got a 6.2 kicking around, you could do this. The 6.2 hasn't been manufactured in like 30+ years at this point though so you could be in for a lot of machine work depending on the condition of a very used block and heads. There are a few sources for newer AM General made Optimizer 6.5 blocks which corrected the issues of the earlier 6.5l motors. If you're going to go to the trouble of fitting new pistons and doing all the machine work to a 6.2, it might make more sense to just start fresh with a new 6.5 block. Then fit the lower compression marine pistons and an intercooler (which none of the turbo motors ever had) and you're good to go. You can push the GM-8 turbo up north of 15psi although a Holset HX35 would probably be a better choice. 300+hp and 500lb-ft is easily within the reach of these motors. The factory AM General 6.5 Optimizers are rated at 205hp and 440lb-ft at low boost pressures.
After watching this the thing that jumped out at me is everything it takes to make these reliable engines is done affordably and easily, and is stuff around the engine. On the 6.0, it's a completely different story - pretty much the opposite (internal work, cab off, 4 or 5 figures, etc.). So there is still something to be said for these old 6.5s. Also, you forgot to mention that the design intent for the 6.2/6.5 is to be compact and light enough to fit anywhere a Chevy big block previously was. You absolutely cannot say that about the other diesels.
Hello from Michigan, I currently own two 96 3/4 ton trucks and I am very happy with both of them. Where I work we manufacture parts for the 6.5 diesel, many people dont realize the 6.5 diesel is still in production and is redesigned to be much more durable than it was back in the day. God bless
Would take a 6.5 any day over a 6.4, owned my 95 6.5 for 6 years and put about 400k on her, she’s at 650k total now. Did everything in this video to her, as well as a cat oil filter. Adds capacity to it and is overall a better filter.
I have a ‘93 6.5 db2 k3500 single wheel with a 5spd in it. I absolutely love it. I have - Quadstar Super 60 turbo setup - Quadstar Marine Injectors - Quadstar intake plenum - Quadstar Battery relocation tray - Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer - Leyroy Diesel Billet crankshaft pulley - Airdog II 4g 100gph - Diamondeye 4” straight pipe - Diamondeye 2.5” crossover tubes - Duramax fan swap (on its way) - Glowshift (lol) triple pillar gauge (egt, boost, trans temp) You can’t go wrong with a 6.5 if you build it right!
I bought an 86 blazer with a 6.5 turbo diesel. If I'm not mistaken the engine was out of a 92 93 dually. I ran the truck for 3 years and had no issues with it. I loved that old truck. Wish I still had it.
Mine made it to 200K, dropped a valve on Interstate 10 1100 miles from home. Towed it home (2003) and the truck sits out back and the engine on the floor of my shop. Haven't had the interest to fix it as of yet.
If you don't need to pull a 12 ton tag behind you then a 6.5 will do just fine. My 6.2 will get me 24+ mpg Canadian all day long. Does not wear a front end out every 2 years like a cummins. Easy to replace injectors and glow plugs as needed.
The 6.5L must be a great engine if the Military still uses the M1025-M1046 and M1113-M1167 HMMWV/ECV.They longer make them,even for the Military,espiecally since the JLTV came out in 2015 which has a 6.6L LBZ,but the Army and Marines will not retire them until 2042.So that means that the 6.5L itself will be over 50 years old by that time,and the HMMWV will be almost 60 years old by then,ever since the first year that both the truck and engine came out into production.I'm a Powerstroke and Cummins guy,I love the most torque that you can get,but if I say that the 6.2L and 6.5L are great engines...Then it must be true.Both of those engines back in their prime just had the loss of torque compared to the 6.9L-7.3L IDI and 7.3L Powerstroke,and the 12V 5.9L.However,they have incredibly fuel efficiency compared to the other main two,even in today's trucks,they still are at the same level or can have better numbers for being 30 years old or older already.The main result to get better fuel efficiency above 20 MPG in them was dependant on the weight of the truck and what gear ratio you have.The most common problems on the two of them actually was the harmonic balancers,fuel filters,base housings,injection pumps,heads,and even cracking in the cylinders which are all related to age and high abuse obviously.The 6.2L had 155 HP/250 TQ and the 6.5L had 200 HP/390 TQ,even though the 6.2L was naturally aspirated you could buy a Banks turbocharger kit that even was available for the 6.9L & 7.3L IDI's that added 60 HP/115 TQ and 5-10 Psi of boost.However,you would need a brand new harmonic balancer,head studs,and head gaskets on one and also the chambers and feeds would need to be inspected of course to make sure there is no oil leaking in any of them.You can even interchange a 6.2L with 6.5L parts to handle 13-18 Psi of boost and would need a intake manifold,plenum passenger exhaust manifold crossover,CDR Valve and much more.The 6.5L also came naturally aspirated as well,but most were turbocharged,the M1025-M1046 HMMWV all have the N/A 6.5L.
My father worked at General Motors working on their diesels all through the 90s and he has told me personally he hates the 6.2 but loves the 6.5 for some reason. I’ve never really cared much for the 6.5.
Had a 96 3500 crew cab Cheyenne.I live in the North. Used it as a "get any where in bad weather"...also great for recreational...fishing...hunting...tow anything...bring everyone...even my big Newfoundland dog.
My 97 crewcab 2wd had a great 1st owner. Dude threw a bunch of banks stuff on. I cut the exhaust off an bullet proofed it remote pmd lift pump ext..... I get 17mpg all day long an she loves to run. Greatest truck ive ever owned
Nice to see you doing some more upgrades to the old 6.5, I did the lift pump upgrade to mine, as well as the 4" exhaust, manual wastegate controller, I put bigger battery cables on the truck from PT wiring solutions, relocated the PMD on my truck, and it has been a very reliable truck, I love that parts are cheap to get for it, and lots of parts suppliers for it also. Keep up the hard work, and enjoy your videos, keep them coming
Personally best diesel I ever owned was a 84 f250HD 4x4 4spd with a 6.9 international harvester in it. Only mods were 6” true duals and two clicks on the pump maybe 4 if I was feeling cute can’t remember. But that truck was soo much fun. I remember going to country thunder and using it as a tow truck with chains and driving through mud holes that lifted monsters got stuck in and just rolling through in gear not even touching the pedal. 2low I could just let out the clutch and I could climb a wall.
I had the same with an automatic. Didn't do a lot of off-road use although I was invited to Yankee Lake in Ohio to show off in the mud lol. Simple to work on but the glow plug system did suck and made cold starts not too fun. Rust ate her alive, unfortunately.
@@biggytmofo Woah !!!! Yankee Lake. I remember watching videos of mud trucks from that place. That’s so rad man !!!! I always thought the muddin’ was cool
I've been a diesel mechanic for 15 years and specialized in the 6.5 trucks/vans/buses. These are great engines. And can be built to compete with a STOCK modern diesel. They'll never put out 1,000+hp. But they can be daily driven at around 450hp-500hp. These engines were designed in the mid to late 70s to combat the fuel crisis. They are built specifically for fuel economy. And to run on multiple fuels. This is why the military used/uses them. Plus they're dirt cheap. And that's usually the deciding factor for the military. I'm going to clear up a few things you mentioned... There are ZERO issues with the DS-4 injection pumps. The pump driver (PMD you mentioned) is the problem. Move it to the skid plate or even just out from under the hood (manifold mounted solutions are not good enough)and problem SOLVED. Better starting, more power, better fuel economy and a quieter running engine than a mechanical engine. I would never buy a mechanical injection truck over a DS-4 truck. And yes I own a 94 3/4 ton Suburban with a DS-4 6.5 Turbo Diesel. And I LOVE it! Torque numbers come in at 1,600-1,800 RPM not 3000+. This is obviously higher than a lot of diesel peak torque numbers. But even the Duramax has its peak torque at 1,600 RPM. These engines aren't limited to 3200 RPM on a 94+. Your mechanical is probably around d 3400 RPM. So I'm not quite sure what you mean by 4,000 RPM. If you're getting 4,000 RPM out of your truck. The governor in your DB-2 is shot and you need a need pump. Or some asshat thought he knew how to get "all the power". And performed some backwoods hillbilly fuel injection surgery to it. GM quick connect fitting are the bane of my existence... However it's rarely the clip fitting that fails. It's the aluminum crimp that fails on the hose ends. And as for harmonic balancers go...It is my strong belief that ANY engine. Gas or diesel. Will benefit from installing a Fluidamper. I've rebuilt at least 50 6.2/6.5 engines and I have JUST ONE with a broken crankshaft. I got my suburban with a poor running engine And found out it was a broken crank... But it still ran well enough to drive it on a trailer and then drive it on to a 4 post lift. Overheating is a myth brought on by people that don't maintain their cooling module. This is the group of cooling exchangers at the front of the truck and includes. Of course the radiator, air conditioning condenser, engine oil cooler and a remote transmission cooler on some trucks. These NEED to be kept clean and free flowing. Both on the outside AND inside. Like I said I have a 94 Suburban and I plow with it and pull a 12,000lb skid steer with it once in a while. And while I'm certainly not going to win any races...Even in the dead of summer with the A/C blowing hard. It does not get too hot. Just keep your cooling module or cooling pack clean and you're golden. Great video. I wish more people would actually drive one and maybe even push a plow or tow a trailer with one before they make up their minds about how "terrible" these engines are.
@@jamescallachan9896 yes. I'm not sure if he does anymore. But Heath used to sell high output pumps for 94+ trucks. Now obviously that's not all you need. It also requires a cam, injectors, port work, head/main studs, turbo upgrade and even adding an intercooler. But it absolutely can be done.
@@mydailylife3771 Yes. .I have a 6.5 turbo Chevy Tahoe in New Zealand. It was converted to RHD in Canada & shipped new to NZ in 1997 Done a 190K & worth about NZD$25k.. Very cheep. Old gas Blazer are going for twice that. diesel fuel is NZD$1.20 per lt. + road tax of 6c per km. !!! & road tax for a 50 ton truck & trailer is 60c per km
I've just run a 190* thermostat the duramax fan relocated pump electrical and upgraded lift pump oh and 4in exhaust runs and drives great and no more vac pump I have manual wastegate control
I had a 6-2 diesel the only diesel truck I ever bought and I loved it lot of people didn't like how they didn't have power but you go do your research on the 6-2 in the 6-5 they were not designed to pull they were designed for fuel mileage
I own a 6.0, Its at 234k. Bullet proofed at 471 hp 947 tq, take care of your truck and it will care for you. The 6.4 doesn't even give you a chance to care for it lmfao
The 6.5 is a great engine, and remember it was good enough for the military, which says something right there. I hear all kinds of crap talked about the 6.5, but I have one in my 96 suburban and it's been the best vehicle I've ever owned - still driven daily at 370,000 miles and never had any internal work done. Its had some injector pumps and a few PMDs, but that's not the engines fault, and I have remedied those issues. If you take care of it, it'll take care of you. You can't call something a bad engine because it failed due to abuse and neglect. All the 6.5 haters out there have got to be doing something wrong because mine can't be the only good one ever made...
Military takes the lowest bidder, 6.5s had a lot of issues that stemmed from the switch from mechanical to electronic. It’s common for people to switch the mechanical components off a 6.2 to a 6.5.
The Ford international idi were better, and the 12v Cummins Dodge was the best in those years. The 12v is the only one from that era that's still relevant and the prices for these old trucks reflect this. Although I think the idis are slept on and often ignored. Personally I'd take an idi with some mods over the newer 7.3 pstroke for the price. And obviously I'd take a 12valve over everything
Because you don't need to do shit to make a 12 valve reliable this whole video is like do this do that. Shit put diesel in a 12 valve and she goes hahahaha
Excellent video! I had a 6.2L pickup & Suburban years ago. I currently have a 3rd gen Cummins Ram. The 6.2's served me well but the DB2 pump went out on the pickup. It got descent mpg and accelerated good initially then dead pedal. Torque was absent compared to the Cummins but it towed my boat. These old idi engines did what they were supposed to do - just not over achievers. The common rail high output Cummins I have now is a beast. Sometimes I wish I'd kept the pickup just as a fun kick around truck. 6.2's are rarely seen in my area these days. Oh, and I like your blue Great Dane! I have a fawn named Cash. He's 39 1/2" at the shoulder.
Yes, comparing this engine to a Cummins is tough. They just have so much torque over the 6.5. But, like you said, for general towing they do fine and get decent mpg. This truck does not tow a lot and I generally use it as my work truck because with the camper shell, it holds a ton of stuff in the bed. Yes, Moose is a fun dog. He is huge, I will have to measure him today and get back with you. He is my shop buddy.
The 6.5 is a great diesel for those who want good economy and ultra cheap replacement parts. There is alot of aftermarket support for them now to make them dependable. It's too bad that they weren't saved earlier, I feel there would be alot more of them on the roads.
I just bought my first diesel truck 4 months ago. 93 4x4 extended cab dually. 6.5 with automatic transmission. New Engine has 100k on it, truck and transmission has 250k. Just pulled transmission out yesterday to rebuild. I absolutely love this truck. It has a very nice loom, style, and i can haul gravel without worrying about my fancy tailgate like new trucks. Trucks to me are tools. It's a powered wheelbarrow. Gets excellent mileage. Easy to work on. I get compliments on its look several times a week.
Don't install a silicone filled harmonic balancer if you live where it gets 40 below zero and you drive your truck. The silicone solidifies at low temperatures. You'll lose your crank. Stick with a new stock rubber isolated damper.
Ops mod. The oil pressure sensor triggers the lift pump. Add a relay so that the oil pressure sensor triggers a relay and doesn't carry the load of the lift pump
I rewired one and took it from the oil pressure sensor and tied it in to key switch power going to the wiper motor so that any time the key is on, the lift pump runs. Made a huge difference in how the truck started. That truck used to burn through starters like you wouldn't believe.
The 6.5 diesel is actually a pretty decent motor it’s just gutless. Pretty reliable. I had one I got at 156k on it that never had anything go wrong but basic maintenance and finally at 273k it needed an injection pump but that’s it.
Does not have to stay that way, GM was delving into a computer monitored fuel injection system to meet emissions, GM was actually 1st ones to do this, with some issues they got pretty decent at it, but EPA got tighter and tighter with emission, so distributed fuel from a mechanical injection pump monitored by a computer would not do, common rail is only way to do it so industry wide you have common rail as the standard now. 6.5s being IDI spraying fuel into the prechamber also never going to be capable of matching full performance of a DI spraying fuel directly on top of the piston. With some intelligent work, 250 rear wheel HP is not impossible from the 6.5 , mine is closer to 300 rwhp though it has been some time since I've dynoed it. I did manage on one dyno-day "besting a stock 2003 Dodge 5.9 24V back in 2005 before some mods I have now 197 rwhp that day. Bill Heath of Heath Diesel hold land speed record for the 6.5 (deeply modified) at 163 mph is Bonneville sporting my "Feed the Beast" modification (wish now that I would have patented that) :) My K1500 GMC is capable of 18K tows at interstate speeds all day long, though I don't do that as matter of course; it was a matter of necessity before I purchased my 2006 5.9 Cummins in a Dodge 3500 crew cab dually wrapper.
My 97 GMC 2500 has 480k+km's on it and still just putting tyres on it and oil changes, if that's the worst engine then there must be some very high milage others around
@@Hitman-ds1ei the thing that fails on the 6.5s the most is the ECM... since it overheats due to its location.You can get a simple plug and play ECM relocation harness though to make even that problem go away.
There's a reason they are STILL built and used world wide. Gm just screwed up a few castings in the late 90s and people suck at maintenance is all. Best bang for your buck ever, blo one up and you can have another off buy n sell in a week for less than two grand, complete.
Really great video! I think we may have to add in the 6.4 Powerstroke to the worst diesel of all time. I think they made that just to give us gear heads the opportunity to build Fummins out of em😂
Got a 98 6.5 in a C2500. It's had it's share of issues to be fair, but it fits me to a tee. I don't need a powerhouse, just something decent on fuel, that I can haul crap around with on occassion. At 200k though, it is getting pretty leaky! And that replacement LP doesn't seem to want to push any fuel at startup either, but overall, she does alright. (Gotta say though, I'm hatin that electric pump! NOT a cheap replacement at $2500).
I have the same feeling. I have towed with mine and it's so-so. But, just driving around town as my work truck it is fine and gets decent gas mileage. And with the 4x4 and dually aspects, it is phenomenal in the snow and ice. And cheap.....so the main reason I love it. Thanks for watching.
Owned a 94 K3500 crew cab lasted 8 years 227,000 mile , most costly vehicle to maintain I've ever owned, many many many thousands of dollars to run that long , cracked a head , took out the whole engine , quoted $9000 to replace. Replaced it with 2002 Ford F150 Harley-Davidson , currently 18 years old 425, 000 miles absolutely minimum spent on repairs!!
I love my 97 6.5 suburban. I have made around 10 trips between Seattle and LA or Phoenix. I love the fact that I can fuel up in Seattle and make it to Redding, CA on one tank. The only modifications I have made are exhaust, pmd relocation, intake, and a boost contrler. I peak out at about 15psi.
@@neilklump3744 depends on if I'm towing. But the Max I've seen through Central California where it's pretty much flat is 21 empty. But up here in Seattle area where it's got a lot of hills. I can get around 17-19 mixed city and freeway. I only live 11 miles from work. But I'm usually cutting it close on time so that 15 minute drive is usually done at 75-80 mph.
@blackandgold51 for as much as I love my 6.5. I would honestly go for the 5.9 Cummins. There is way more resources available for them and way more aftermarket parts available. I'll even let you know where you can get the best swap. The next time that you are flying take a look out the terminal window. You will see trucks outside that have the box lift on them. A good majority of them have the 5.9 Cummins in them. But here's the best part. The also have an Allison transmission in them. I work in the airline industry and one of my coworkers bought 2 of them at auction. One for $2500 and the other one for even less. He's taking one of them and talking the box and cab off and putting a 4 door Ford cab and a bed to make it a dump bed.
I have a 2000 k3500 with the 6.5. I’ve always had fuel delivery problems and I did replace the harmonic balancer but it’s always been a good engine other than that
On the cooling system add a restrictor in the bypass hose off the pump to force coolant to go to the radiator and not back to the block Leroys Diesel has this fitting works very well
Anyone who owns a 6.5 needs to know NOT to use a cheap foreign part on its IP system, even a cheap cable can cause issues. Previous owner used a cheap eBay kit that I have had to completely replace with a Stanadyne PMD (but the one I bought came with a cheap cable!). Leroy Diesel makes his own cables in Texas and the 6' relocated PMD cable I bought from him changed the way my truck runs! You can also buy a 2 quart oil filter to expand this motor's oil capacity, which was smaller than the PowerStroke and Cummins competitors' capacities.
anyone who calls a 6.5 gutless has never owned a 6.2... try driving a 3/4 burban with a NA 6.2 first before you talk about slow. Mine gets maybe a 0-60 of 16 seconds.
My worst experience with this truck was the pump mounted driver that would fail slowly, making the truck totally unreliable. Didn’t know what it was at the time and when I had it towed into the dealership, they claimed they had put it on their diagnostic computer and could find nothing wrong! After several experiences of being stranded I got rid of this truck and got a Dodge Cummins that is still totally reliable after 18 years and still going strong. You would think GM would have had the decency to solve the problem by relocating the pump mounted driver when I went back to the dealership with the problem, as you indicate in your video. No regrets getting rid of the 6.5!
Seems like the early models of the 6.5 are the worst the 6.6 duramax is so much better but also costs substantially more the 6.5 was built to meet emissions and with new hardware
The nozzles and injectors that break,or need to be replaced every 150,000 Miles,on the trash Duramax cost just as much as you can get a 6.2L or 6.5L sitting in junk or out of a wrecked truck somewhere,that still actually runs even in shit condition.The 1991-1993 6.5L was all mechanical just like the 6.2L was for 1982-1991.The late 1993-1999 6.5L had electrical fuel injection.Most if not all of them had 200 HP/390 TQ.I don't know about the emissions part involving them,but the 12 Valve Cummins was the "worst" on being "emissions friendly",even the 7.3L Powerstroke wasn't as bad as they were on emissions standards at that time.The only thing that the 6.6L has being better is more torque.
Worst American diesel = GM 5.7 diesel. I had an 85 suburban with a 6.2, it would consistently get upwards of 30 mpg. I've had a couple 6.5s, they work great if you don't get them hot.
And I just ran across a 2000 3500 hd with the 6.5. At pull a part.....it had the pmd relocator on it...and a mint bench seat no tears.. I grabbed both items.and also the hd door panels... :) I already has a db2 pump already just Incase I decided to swap to manual.. nice vid these engines are meant to be a fuel saver..rather than a powerhouse engine..
I see a lot of discussion on the 6.4 PSD in the comments, here's been my experience: 1: I worked for the govt, I drove a single cab dually 6.4 F450 for about a year, every day. Daily route was about 200-210 miles. 2: The conditions it was worked under were long periods of idle and low rpm driving with intermittent acceleration onto the highway 3: I suspect the truck was derated/detuned, as it only got like 10 mpg and wasnt the fastest 4: It still went 0-60 quicker than a 7.3, not by much 5: The only trouble code it ever threw was for a FRPS(fuel rail pressure sensor) going bad 6: It still had both EGRs and DPF intact 7: It was maintenanced once every 6 months, full egr and dpf clean, fuel system clean, coolant flush, oil & trans fluid changes, filter changes. 8: It always started no matter how cold, even in -14 it cranked for maybe 6 seconds (my dept didnt use block heaters) 9: It felt to me like I was driving an old diesel that would scream at me about a regen every now and again 10: This truck was a looker of course, everyone knows that body style is hard to beat lol Overall my experience with a 6.4 was excellent, I never looked at a 6.4 psd block and thought "ah that makes great power!" everyone remembers how invincible the 7.3 was but never how slow it was.
The only thing unreliable about those diesels or any diesel is the owner. I have a 2009 6.4 with 270k on and nothing has ever been replaced. I have a 7.3 with 242k nothing but glow plugs have ever been replaced. I've seen 6.0s with 500k + all original everything. I even had 5.7 diesel in a boat of a car....great car. The best engine I've ever had was a 6.9 idi in a 85 250
I have the 6.2 diesel in s 86 M1009 k5 a lot of people give them a bad rap but I've had good luck with it , been very reliable and has adequate power .
My family has had our Suburban 2500 with the 6.5 since 97 and its been a solid engine. Theyre no powerhouse but its been reliable. Only issue has been the PMD which went 5yrs ago. 245,000 miles and still rolling
Start with a tuner and s60w turbo from quadstar tuning biggest issue is the stock turbo too much drive pressure which causes high egts and or a blown head gasket 😉
6.0 and 6.4 are terrible engines dosent matter what you do to them. Just got a 6.5 in the shop and had to replace the injection pump , turbo, intake manifold,injector lines and coolant overflow had to come off. to remove the pump its self is not easy. The 6.5 runs very smoothly and has good power. Would take over 6.0 anyday.
I loved my 97 2500 with the 6.5 got it n high school turned the fuel up n did a bigger turbo n intercooler and it was a nice fun truck put around 100k on that truck myself wish I would’ve kept it
have an 85 suburban with a 6.2 with a million 2 on it. what killed it was the oil cooler line rusted and blew all the oil out on the road. Still got 30 mpg towed great but wasn't fast. overall it was great.
My 6.5 was just cruising down the road and blew a rod. I am pretty sure oil pump went out. Now I don't have any 6.5's. Miss the sound. Thanks for watching
6.5 liter is the engine G.M. should have used in the 1982 Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Chevrolet FULL SIZE R.W.D. JUST think about a FULL SIZE RWD CADILLAC GETTING 35 mpg. With the ability to tow a SINGLE axle trailer.
The 6.5 has very simple and very easy fixes, vacuum pump, lift pump, pmd fix those open her up with more intake and exhaust. Nothing to do with 6.5 being bad that's GM's schtick from back in the day
I just bought a 95 3500 the lift pump is not pumping unless its str8 wired and he said the injectors wont spray ..117,000 + miles on it payed 1000 $ What should start to fix this
i have a permeate fix for GM's weird oil line connectors. Use 1/2 flare to 3/8 compression fittings they are plumbing fittings but its a good fix. To avoid leaks at the crimps have hydraulic hose and crimps put on. ALOT less than 175 as suggested here to completely bullet proof those lines forever.
The 6.5L TD can be fixed for less than $1500 with no actual engine work and is the most fuel efficient Diesel ever put in a 3500.... The 6.0L needs $8,000-$15,000 worth of engine work unless it has comercial medium duty D-rated tunes on it (AKA the tuner the school buses have).... The 6.4L PS can be fixed with a Cummins swap, well you know what Ford stands for don't you? Financing Often Ruined Diesels
The 6.5 was pretty damn good if you just kept up with oil changes & filters. People always just try to cheap out. There is NO excuse for the crap 6.0 & 6.4 that Ford went to market with, both times fully aware that they are junk.
Good, informative video! Still have my 1992 6.5 stock except for the inline lift pump and a radiator. That pump was always the weakest link. Never had an overheat, replaced radiator due to a leak. Went through one starter. The only time I was stranded was due to not replacing the batteries when I should have. Regular maintenance, popping the hood, and crawling underneath to check things out as a habit seems to be all this one has needed. I've had more issues with the transmission and the anti-lock braking system than the engine. Oops, almost forgot, had the engine speed sensor go out a month after I bought it new in 1992. Had to wrangle with the dealership as to whether it was covered by warranty, and won out.
The only one major problem gm engineers did was add a bunch of crap for domestic use if you convert it back to marine application manual spring activated wastegate , vacuum delete , bigger air box, 4 inch exhaust, pmd delete or relocate to front of truck or like mine inside the cab with a fan on it you can buy marine injector pumps pmd deleted. Duramax fan, lift pump and fuel line upgrade, 4 core aluminum radiator , reprogram and it will make more power got better mileage and more power out of mine. 320 rwhp 380ft lbs torque isnt bad for a 22 year old chevy that made a lot less out of the factory. Might have 2500.00 into everything. You can also install an oil dry sump tank for hi demand situations when oil pressure drops oil will automatically inject into the motor from reservior. The heat issues are oil related this motor should have 8 quart capacity.
I love my 97 6.5, its not the fastest thing out there but Ive pulled 16000 about 2000 miles with no issues at all in the start of august without any heat issues.
I’ve owned a few 6.5’s, they’re a good engine for fuel mileage and that’s about it. That said, my biggest problems were the trucks around them, tons of electrical issues that kill any kind of dependability
my 6.5 1993 is still going strong.... the injectors and pump is still all original. The jerks idiots who try rolling coals.... destroy them.... with their 3rd grade education... when they were flunked out of school
bull shit beast truck on the world i own one for 12 years never had an issue do a couple thing to it as soon as u get it change out lift pump relocate pmd get oil cooler kit from leroy diesel he has a lot of stuff that will fix the truck completely for ever 2021 i still have the truck i won’t get rid of it ever 550k and still running like new
Ya, I know, Iv heard it all, mostly from people who never owned a 6.2 or 6.5L. Own both, put a shit pile of miles on both, very few issues, wicked milage and NEVER had the major issues other people had. Dont know what to say, 500thou on the 6.2 and 479thou on the 6.5 and no major failures, I am a maitenance nut, maybe that helped.
To really judge it properly, you need to use the 6.5 P400 model. It actually has modern design features such a web main girdle, stronger forged billet crank and ceramic coated pistons. It was actually *designed* for an intercooler (even though you don't need one). I've got one in my H1 and it kick ass.
I would necessarily say all that they are powerhouses in terms of hauling they got plenty of torque which in reality is what you mainly need to tow anyway they are just slower than the other competition say fords 7.3 and even then they are ridiculously slow I can never drive my dads 7.3 faster than 73, or 74 on the highway it all depend on maintenance and the old issue other than that you should be good for a while
I have a -97 that I have owned for 14 years now a great truck to drive in the winters in Sweden. It worked great until one day when it just didn’t start. Search for months on and of for the fault. It didn’t even worked with a scanner tool. Finally find the problem the wire to the main computer was broken inside the cable in the main harness underneath the main brake cylinder. It seems that the cables are made of material that is not so good. Tried to find a substitute cable harness but it turns out that this specific truck is very rare so there is no aftermarket items :-(
6.5’s were great diesels. They were originally made for marine use and military use in the humvee’s. Made for MPG not speed. Pre 93’s are what you want. Mechanical diesel, 26-28mpg. Mine went until 290k miles all original except a starter. Had to sell when I moved sadly. 94’s and on they started to add a PMD but the location made them overheat and act wonky. A simple PMD relocation solved 90% of the issues. They are not speed Demond’s or haul crazy but I never had issues towing around my boats. They were build for longevity and MPG, not so much on the power side
My dads 95 6.5 w/EGR, came with gremlins...He ordered it new as a half ton rclb...it’s had 2 injection pumps, 3 lift pumps, 1 sending unit and tank, 3 PMDs (first one was a relocation kit), 4 starters, glow plugs with relay, and 50hp injectors, 4” turbo back exhaust, and a new transmission. The truck has less than 110k miles! (I did the injectors and glow plugs at 98k as a precaution). What a freakin nightmare, I’m afraid to drive it, fearing I’ll be stranded somewhere. I convinced my parents to put a snowplow on it, to get the most out of it before it dies.
I had two of those, One in a 1981 Buick the other in a 1983 Olds 98. the Buick engine blew up at 130,000 miles, the Olds exploded at 220,000. The olds had a 4 speed OD trans and that huge boat got 31 MPG on an interstate trip in the middle of summer with the a/c on. From 83-85, GM pretty much had the 5.7's quirks ironed out.
OMG, yes. my dad had two of them. He had a Olds cutlass with a diesel, then upgraded to a Olds Delta 88 with that 5.7 diesel. The problems with that and GM's crappy customer service turned him off of GM forever.
Advertised hp on my 98 was 195hp at 3400rpm according to the airbox cover it doesn't have the power to pass on the highway but man does it sound good also I have to replace my pmd every year not a year has gone by I haven't replaced one and mine was mounted to the top of the intake to a massive heatsink
Check that the mounting surface is flat on your PMD using light. Just got a new one and the mounting surface was warped. So filed it flat to help in heat transfer. Ours is mounted to the firewall with a big heat sink. The heat sink has two PMDs mounted to it, a newer primary and the older secondary to switch between when/if one should fail.
@@galvin1922 mine is mounted to 2 bolts holding down the intake top that connects to the turbo but it's mounted directly to the heat sync with the coated gasket that is included with the pmd I'm using the stock wiring harness because of my extension seeming to cause more harm than good it was originally mounted in one of the holes in the front bumper but got relocated again after 2 more failed pmds
GM increased power output in 1998 from 190hp and 385torque to 195hp and 430torque. It actually made more torque than the 454 at that point(290hp 410torque).
