This is a great series, been looking for something like this with great detail start to finish. You should do another series just like this hooking up to a well!!
Nice to see that your pool table is getting some use. Nice to use the proper fittings and clamps. Like you said, a couple dollars more and it's done properly. I am getting a better idea now how to install irrigation. If we don't move and still at the house we are at now next year, I might practice on my own property. Awesome Job Ken. Really enjoyed the video!
This is a great series! Been looking for a install video like this start to finish with good detail. You should do another series hooking up to a well!
So I have roughly 80,000 ft.² of lawn I would like to irrigate. There are a few smaller areas but the majority of it is going to be larger spaces. If you had to make an estimate of how many zones I will need what would you say it will take?
It’s all math, it depends on your water source’s output…. You need to flow test it and then you can figure out the max per zone and then you can divide it based on each head requirements… for instance say your flow is 100 gallons per hour…. If your heads output 10 gallons per hour each that would allow 10 heads per zone …. Pressure plays a part but is part of the flow testing. It’s all simple math just repeated over a larger area
@@KenMrKLC yeah, I’m having a local third generation well driller come and look at my will. I think it needs flushed for sure, and perhaps even a more powerful pump.
Rain-bird dv100 valves are one of the worst valves on market AND HE DIDNT EVEN BUY Ones with FLOW CONTROLS (75cent more) ITS VERY IMPORTANT TO BUY VALVES WITH FLOW CONTROLS, THESE VALVES SLAM CLOSE( not slow closing valve) to HELP REDUCE water hammer you need to dial the psi in correctly on the non-pressure side( side sprinkle heads are on should be NO MORE THAN 45PSI WHILE running........ they installed some systems using this type of barb poly system in the mid 80’s here in GA. While the company’s that used pvc pipe specially schedule 40 (450psi) are still working great.... but 95% of poly pipe system have been replaced 2 reasons THE POLY PIPE WHEN YOU BUY AND INSTALL IT IS FLEXIBLE, AFTER 20 PLUS YEARS IN GROUND IT HARDENS AND ROOTS GROW BESIDE THE SIDE( roots will flow trench lines after installs cause soil is not as compact and water will settle deeper into ground and it get better oxygen exchange, SO THE ROOTS FROM PINE TREES CRACK THE POLY PIPE, reason 2 poly pipe will split at barb or barb will crack because it’s often connected at angles that are nowhere near plumb( after all it was very flexible NEW) so the barbs mostly TEE’s are under stress and after 15-30 years of water hammer it cracks.. DO NOT CONFUSE THE LARGE POLY PIPE WITH FLEX HOSE OR FUNNY PIPE used to connect heads to poly or heads to PVC..... PEOPLE DO NOT FOLLOW THIS SET-UP BUY 1 “ SCHEDULE 40( for pressure and non- pressure) flex all heads in and use barb 90’s and marlex 90’s , install bottom of heads(makes a true-swing head) and for valves use irritrol 205 w/flow control or irritrol 2400 jar-tops w/flow controls ( owned by toro ,been making SAME VALVE FOR OVER 40 YEARS, they will last avg.20-30 years before needing rebuilt) HUNTER HPV w/flow controls are good valves, K-RAIN makes the only design water goes straight through the valve, no restrictions or pressure lost, great valve not very common, K-RAIN company has the most patents and invented the adjustment on top of head design, then hunter manufactured them giving a royalty on every head sold that head WAS THE HUNTER PGP( one of best heads ever made, k-rain makes the same head called Rps, I-75 rps and the best head the select by k-rain) anyways weatherMatic makes a great valve for high pressure it’s a very slow closing valve, solenoid don’t last, try to keep a dry valve box to prolong solenoid life. IF YOUR GOING TO USE RAIN-BIRD VALVES BUY THE RAIN-BIRD PGA they all have flow controls all treaded inserts so buy male adapter use good Teflon wrap 4x around, do not over tighten or use pipe dope, the rain-bird PGA is slow closing and cost about $3-4 more than DV100 for a 1” valve, PGA do not have bleed screws it has internal solenoid bleed, it can be installed as a angle or gobal ( from the bottom or side) the toro valve with the bleed screw in middle of flow control is very good valve and expensive (can’t think of name right now, made by toro, rarely used but great value. Orbit valves are low budget valves(copy’s of over brands) do not buy the pre-made manifolds from orbit or any other brand. Orbit makes a great wi-fi timer box sold at Lowe’s & Home Depot called beehive it’s best budget wi-fi( west wi fi currently is hunter pro hc , has touch screen and two sensor hook-up, install flow-meter, and soil moisture or rain- clink sensor, and get the WIRED TYPE, wireless don’t last and battery no good). People make your manifold with the 4”, 6” spacing 4” tee to next tee and 6” going to valves ALWAYS USE PVC 1” SCHEDULE 40(450 psi) on pressure side and the entire system if you want to prevent cracks at fitting in the future. ALWAYS USE PURPLE PRIMER AND BLUE 725 WELD-ON WET & DRY GLUE...... ⚠️ you MUST wipe off any glue on outside of pipe when using thin wall pipe (schedule 20, 200 rated @ 200psi) the glue will burn the pipe and weaken’s it if not wipe off pipe at fitting connection, a glue connection done right IS STRONGER THAN THE PIPE, it melts the to pipes together, schedule 40 is thick enough to where wiping around glue joint is optional. Make sure to use NEW GLUE ON ALL PRESSURE LINES, after opened good rule is not to use on any pressure line(pipe that supply’s valves ,hose bibs ) after 2 weeks save it for non-pressure pipe ( pipe sprinkler heads are on, after the valves) always glue dry pipe and apply purple primer to outside pipe inside fitting or valve, no need to wipe dry then apply blue wet&dry to outside and inside fitting turn pipe 3/4 circle then 1/2 circle back, hold for 5-15 seconds, wait 15 minutes before turning water on, on cold days wait 20 mins, warm glue can on dashboard of truck with heater on if needed. Do not turn on water before 15mins, ALWAYS OPEN VALVE BY BLEEDING IT( turn bleed screw 1-2 full turns) this will manually turn zone on and let air out and also help bypass or bleed out small amount of trash/dirt leave bleed on for 1 min or until lines are flushed, then install heads and bleed all valve manually turn on and run for 3-5 minutes (water will fill valve box, that is why YOU WATERPROOF YOUR WIRE CONNECTIONS) also DO NOT ADD ROCK INSIDE BOX OR AROUND IT, does not help. Cutting and sealing holes does..
Whoa. I appreciate your long explanation of how to make a better system. Lots of good advice here. There is no doubt there are better products that could be used however these components are pretty standard in my area here on Cape Cod. I have been in the business for 22 years and usually with residential irrigation systems they are all plumbed using this method. Golf courses and larger commercial properties use a heavier duty solution. Good nuggets of advice to built a top quality system. Using the components and methods shown here I have had zero failures in any systems installed. Zero. We get occasional backflow crack and broken heads but thats it. Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge
Electricians doing plumbing of vaccume breaker /backflow preventers, in mass. Isn't that kinda mass akwards there buddy ? 🤡🤡🤨,yeah I caught it 🤣🤣🤣, !!nice job on the manifold n box setting bro 👌
